Trip Advice. Yellowstone or Glacier in June?

[AKay09]

Hey I'm looking for some advice on a trip I am trying to plan for the end of June into July. Originally I had decided on Glacier National Park in the end of July but 2 of the members of my group can only go at the end of June. Was wondering if anyone knows how the Bowman Lake, Hole in the Wall and Goat Haunt area is at this point of year? I'm assuming a bit snowy.

Since I have the feeling it might be a bit snowy and rough going for us, I've decided to look into Yellowstone as well but can't seem to find a good trail map anywhere that has distances. Anyone know of a good backcountry map for Yellowstone or have any ideas on a 5 to 6 day trip? All advice and suggestions are greatly appreciated!! Thank you!

P.S. First post here, just found the site the other day and have loved it! :twothumbs:

 

[Joey]

Sounds like an awesome trip!

First couple of things:
What is your experience with both parks? Just want to make sure you're aware they are 2 completely different places to backpack.
What is your experience and comfort level with hiking over snow?
There really won't be a solid answer about the backcountry conditions until late May or June. And every year is different. Regardless of what conditions exist now, a lot can change over the next few months.


Glacier: I've hiked Boulder Pass in June. Again, every year is different. It helps if you know the route. You will encounter snow as you near the Boulder Pass backcountry site, and will have over snow travel from there to Hole in the Wall. The most sketchy part will be as you drop out of Boulder Pass, and start to round around the "hole" on the trail circling Hole in the Wall. Some areas are iced over and slick. Sometimes you can avoid these spots by climbing up above the trail. There will be a few more spots where you need to be cautious before reaching HITW. From there down to Goat Haunt is easy. The Goat Haunt shelters are nice, you have a covered fire pit to enjoy along the lake. From there however, the trail up to fifty mountain will be snow covered, and Stoney Indian Pass is steep snow above the lake. If your plan is to go down to Bowman Lake via Brown Pass, then that will be easier. Some snow, but nothing really sketchy.

The backcountry sites at Boulder Pass and Hole in the Wall will most likely be in winter conditions in June. You would have to bring a bear canister because of that.

What would your planned itinerary be for that area?

Yellowstone: The Trails Illustrated maps for the park show the miles. You may have to look at the individual quadrant maps to see mileage between campsites. River crossings are just as big of an issue as snow in June. You also have bear management areas to deal with. Many of those areas are closed to travel in June. Mosquitos can sometimes be terrible. Depends on where you are going.

The most likely 5 to 6 day trip in Yellowstone late June would be in the northern section along the Yellowstone River. You can do a loop out of the town of Gardiner. Part of your trip would be outside the park in the Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness Area.

If you can talk your buddies into July, you will have quite a few more trip options.

 

[AKay09]

Thank you so much for such a helpful reply!

In regards to my experience with both parks, well it's none. I've never been west of the Mississippi River actually ha, from the Chicago area. None of us have any experience with hiking in snow either. We all have some experience backpacking in the Smokies and in Shenandoah but we are all still novices for the most part. I've always wanted to go west and had originally wanted to hike from Kintla Lake in Glacier down through Hole in the Wall and then down to Bowman lake and out in late July. The reason for the change was 2 of my friends only have a 14 day window to go starting on June 21st due to school. I then changed the route to Bowman Lake to Kootenai Lake and back over 5 nights. People at the park told me over the phone though that the Boulder Pass, Brown Pass area could be pretty snowy so I'm not sure this is a good idea for us. Was looking at getting reservations but may just wing it depending on the conditions come June.

It was then that I thought about switching from Glacier to Yellowstone and pushing Glacier back a few months or a year but have been having a much harder time finding routes. The mosquitoes may be a bit annoying but I think I could put up with them, plenty of experience dealing with them up in Wisconsin and the Boundary Waters.

 

[Joey]

Realistically, you could probably do that trip (Bowman Lake to Kootenai Lakes and back) the last week of June this year with out any problems. You will most likely only encounter snow as you near Brown Pass, and even then it won't be dangerous. You could also do a one way trip, starting at Bowman Lake, and hiking to Waterton Lake. From there you could take the shuttle boat into Canada, and catch a hiker shuttle back to Glacier.

As much as I love Yellowstone, it wouldn't compare to that trip into Glacier.
If you want Yellowstone suggestions, I can give some to you.

Are you flying or driving? If your driving, I would suggest playing it by ear.

 

[Absarokanaut]

http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/predictions/long_range/seasonal.php?lead=3

The Above shows what we're already dealing with, too much "Spring" precip is coming as rain. Lots of girls wore shorts here in Jackson today. But it could of course be like '75 and we get a half dozen feet Memorial Day Weekend.

That said as little as I remember and know of Glacier Joey is right, you're not gonna find a comparable trip in YNP. However in the other almost 90% of Greater Yellowstone you will find amazing things that rival anywhere on the planet. I think we could have an earlier hiking season this year. We have lots of options and I'll share some if you are will to get out of the National Park Box.

Another option is one of the most magical ranges you'll ever tread, Colorado's Sangre de Cristo. After 20 years in Colorado it will always be one of my favorite places. Here are but a couple of slices of this narrow, rugged range. Not conducive to many loops but if you don't have loopsternitis some of the finest point to point backpacking you'll ever find.



Notice my friend to the right of the top of the falls?





Last image believe it or not was April one year. That's a 14er.

Whatever you do have an awesome trip.

 

[AKay09]

Thanks for the tips guys, really happy to hear that you think the Glacier trip will probably be doable. I think after hearing that I will fill out the application for the trip I was hoping to do and if things go south come June, well it's not the end of the world and then we will probably play it by ear and look into other options such as Yellowstone or maybe in Colorado. Would we need a bear canister doing this trail or only at sites that are not open for reservations yet? Also is a passport needed to go into Canada right there? I'm assuming yes.

We are planning on driving and stopping at Mount Rushmore one way and hopefully the Badlands the other.

Also Joey, some of your YouTube videos are the reason I found this forum and I gotta say I'm very jealous of all the amazing trips you've been on and thank you again, both of you!

 

[isleroyaleguy]

One thing about GNP is that some of the backcountry sites you mentioned aren't reserveable until August 1st because of winter conditions.
I would take GNP over YNP all day long, but in June you will be limited.
Yes to passport if entering Canada at Goat Haunt.

Cheers
IRG

 

[Joey]

@isleroyaleguy is right about the campsites. You won't be able to reserve the Boulder Pass, Hole in the Wall, or even Brown Pass campsites for June. And you will need a bear canister for your whole trip if your planning to use one of those campsites, assuming they are still in winter status.

You can play it by ear since your driving. You can always check back on here for condition updates. I'll be in Yellowstone late May/early June, and will be up in Glacier by June 14th. Other posters on here will be up there as well, so we should be able to give you a good idea of what the snow conditions are like then, for both areas.

Glad you found this website, its one of the best backpacking forums on the internet. A really good group of people too.

 

[AKay09]

We actually plan on staying at Bowman, Francis and Kootenai Lakes since the Kintla Lake to Bowman option seems to be a bit a sketchier for us to take, and those are all open June 15th. I'll definitely be paying attention to this forum in the months ahead to see how things are going up there. Thanks again for all the help!

 

[isleroyaleguy]

The BCP is a great forum. A fantastic resource. Very helpful people.

Here's another one that is GNP specific. Also loaded with a ton of info

http://www.glacier.nationalparkschat.com/phpBB3/index.php

Cheers
IRG

 

[kansas]

Permits for some places in Glacier fill up as soon as they start processing requests on April 15.

 

[Joey]

Permits for some places in Glacier fill up as soon as they start processing requests on April 15.

Just the spots you can reserve. They hold spots at each backcountry site for walk up permits that are available the day before you start your trip.

 

[JoshuaDyal]

Hey I'm looking for some advice on a trip I am trying to plan for the end of June into July. Originally I had decided on Glacier National Park in the end of July but 2 of the members of my group can only go at the end of June. Was wondering if anyone knows how the Bowman Lake, Hole in the Wall and Goat Haunt area is at this point of year? I'm assuming a bit snowy.

You'll have to call the rangers at both parks as it gets closer, but from everything I've been hearing, almost the entire Rocky Mountain area has way below average snowfall this year. You may be able to do a lot of things that early that normally you can't do until several weeks later.

Of course, that's unpredictable. A bunch more snow could, theoretically, still fall.

Since I have the feeling it might be a bit snowy and rough going for us, I've decided to look into Yellowstone as well but can't seem to find a good trail map anywhere that has distances. Anyone know of a good backcountry map for Yellowstone or have any ideas on a 5 to 6 day trip? All advice and suggestions are greatly appreciated!! Thank you!

Trails Illustrated 302-305.

 

[Absarokanaut]

While there are indeed several places lacking in snowpack Joshua you might want to check Snotel Stations as here in Greater Yellowstone and elsewhere we are now just barely dipping below normal snowpack in the Upper Snake River Drainage. People are judging snowpack on the lowest elevations and that's very inaccurate.

 

[AKay09]

I have another question. I was thinking of sending in my permit application tomorrow but realized that online it says each site can only hold 4 people and 2 tents. Currently I have 5 people in my group so would my chances of getting my route be pretty low as I would then need to get 2 sites reserved for us? This is at Glacier btw. Thanks again!

 

[isleroyaleguy]

I have another question. I was thinking of sending in my permit application tomorrow but realized that online it says each site can only hold 4 people and 2 tents. Currently I have 5 people in my group so would my chances of getting my route be pretty low as I would then need to get 2 sites reserved for us? This is at Glacier btw. Thanks again!

You can do 5 people if you can fit in two tents. Some spots are tight even for two tents

 

[pstm13]

This is what it looked like @ Glacier in late June of 2014 for my trip.

 

[Absarokanaut]

That's an awesome photo.

 

[AKay09]

View attachment 40410
This is what it looked like @ Glacier in late June of 2014 for my trip.

Yeah we definitely had some warmer weather last June. I ended up going late June into early July and we had multiple days hit 90 degrees. Mountains for sure looked a bit different haha

Going over Brown Pass


Kootenai Lake