Jimmy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2014
- Messages
- 98
I've never had any desire to go to Hawaii. Too crowded. Too touristy. Too "resorty". My wife and I wanted to do a trip for our 10-year wedding anniversary. Naturally, I suggested several different backpacking trips - even secured permits - and she countered with, "Do we ALWAYS have to go backpacking?" (Um, yes?)
In marriage, there must be compromise, and she found a good one - Kauai. When first presented with a trip to Kauai, I huffed and puffed, but then was told there was "One of the hardest, most beautiful backpacking trails in the world" there -- the Kalalau Trail. Mmmmkay, tell me more. There are also world-class day hikes in the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific" (Waimea Canyon). And several navigable rivers for kayaking. And world class marlin fishing. Aaaaaaand, sold! Kauai was the destination. Wife happy. I'm happy. And that's how you do marriage, folks!
This TR will focus on the 4-day Kalalau Trail portion of our trip, though we pretty much spent our 10 days hiking, backpacking, kayaking, fishing, and Kauai offers an abundance of all of these activities. The Kalalau Trail is an 22-mile round trip out-and-back on the very rugged Na'Pali coast. The trail is very challenging due to the constant steep climbs and descents in and out of the coastal valleys in hot and muddy conditions. In 11 miles, there is approximately 5000' gained and an equal amount lost, mostly on very steep switchbacks (or no switchbacks). The first two miles are heavily trafficked, and hundreds of stumbling tourists each day hike to a small beach 2 miles in. This section is maintained by the state park service. The remaining 9 miles are un-maintained, though regularly trafficked trails. The last five miles of the trail is marked by constant exposure issues, including the infamous Mile 7 with its "crawlers ledge" (think Angels Landing with no chains), with a 4-6" trail bounded by a 500 ft drop to the Pacific below. As one of the wettest places on Earth, you can expect rain and resulting ankle-deep mud that eliminates traction. The Sierra Club ranks the trail as a 9 out of 10 on the difficulty scale.
The trail culminates in the Kalalau Valley and Beach, a mystical, beautiful place where the ancient Hawaiians built a terrace farming system that exists today. The valley is full of "trails" (some human, some game, none marked) that lead 2 miles into the base of the mountains that surround the valley. This is by no means an area void of humans - there is a small commune of hippies that live in the valley (when police aren't chasing them out), and there are probably 2-3 groups per day that hike the full trail. In the summer, the area supposedly swarms with novice backpackers, but in November, it was not crowded at all. We passed 2 groups leaving and had 2 other groups on the trail with us to the valley.
After two days of hiking Waimea Canyon, my wife and I set off at 5:30 AM from Hanalei, the closest village to the trailhead. It takes most folks take 7-10 hours to do the out trip, so we wanted to arrive with time to relax on the beach. We hit the trail at about 7:15 Am and immediately climbed up 500' or so...then down...then up...you get the picture. The trail was no joke - a real butt kicker. There are no flat sections except for the very end - you're always climbing or descending, weaving in and out of the valleys and rain forest. The reward is when you reach the pinnacle of each peak, with amazing views of the coastline. Our campsite was right next to the beach, and the 20-30' surf sounded like a jet engine all night. We spent the next day exploring the Kalalau Valley - getting lost, really, and another day simply doing nothing on the beach. The hike out was a wet, muddy slog that took it out of us. Due to the weather, we didn't get as many good photos, but these give a nice overview of the trail.
First two miles - nice and maintained. It didn't rain this day, so it was dry going in (trip out, not so much).
These rewarding views helped motivate us through the slog
One of the wider sections of trail, but you can see behind me how it drops off
One of the valleys you hike through to get to Kalalau Beach
Switchbacks! What a great idea...but mostly, you're going straight up or down.
My wife has a decent fear of heights. She overcame this phobia on crawler's ledge, and this is her just after that section.
There is a trail there somewhere.
More rewarding views
Final 1.5 miles flattens out a bit toward the Kalalau Valley. You can see the beach at the end.
View behind you as you sit on Kalalau Beach, including the water source for the camping area. You literally fill up from the "faucet" here.
Sunset Night 1. So many great sunset photos!
Exploring the Kalalau Valley "trails". We got hopelessly lost, but if you follow any stream, it leads you to the main river, where you can find your way out.
Despite a constant rain this day, we decided to hike in 2 miles to the "big pool", which is surrounded by cascades. COLD! Are we in the mountains? I didn't get many photos due to the weather, but it was an amazing place.
Misty morning
Some of the fauna. Lots of wild goats and pigs
On our trek out in the one of the less muddy sections.
We took a helicopter tour on our last day in Kauai, and below are some rather poor shots of the Kalalau Beach and trail. It was raining and foggy, but this gives a nice perspective of the craggy peaks that you must hike across. You can somewhat see the trail on the last shot.
In marriage, there must be compromise, and she found a good one - Kauai. When first presented with a trip to Kauai, I huffed and puffed, but then was told there was "One of the hardest, most beautiful backpacking trails in the world" there -- the Kalalau Trail. Mmmmkay, tell me more. There are also world-class day hikes in the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific" (Waimea Canyon). And several navigable rivers for kayaking. And world class marlin fishing. Aaaaaaand, sold! Kauai was the destination. Wife happy. I'm happy. And that's how you do marriage, folks!
This TR will focus on the 4-day Kalalau Trail portion of our trip, though we pretty much spent our 10 days hiking, backpacking, kayaking, fishing, and Kauai offers an abundance of all of these activities. The Kalalau Trail is an 22-mile round trip out-and-back on the very rugged Na'Pali coast. The trail is very challenging due to the constant steep climbs and descents in and out of the coastal valleys in hot and muddy conditions. In 11 miles, there is approximately 5000' gained and an equal amount lost, mostly on very steep switchbacks (or no switchbacks). The first two miles are heavily trafficked, and hundreds of stumbling tourists each day hike to a small beach 2 miles in. This section is maintained by the state park service. The remaining 9 miles are un-maintained, though regularly trafficked trails. The last five miles of the trail is marked by constant exposure issues, including the infamous Mile 7 with its "crawlers ledge" (think Angels Landing with no chains), with a 4-6" trail bounded by a 500 ft drop to the Pacific below. As one of the wettest places on Earth, you can expect rain and resulting ankle-deep mud that eliminates traction. The Sierra Club ranks the trail as a 9 out of 10 on the difficulty scale.
The trail culminates in the Kalalau Valley and Beach, a mystical, beautiful place where the ancient Hawaiians built a terrace farming system that exists today. The valley is full of "trails" (some human, some game, none marked) that lead 2 miles into the base of the mountains that surround the valley. This is by no means an area void of humans - there is a small commune of hippies that live in the valley (when police aren't chasing them out), and there are probably 2-3 groups per day that hike the full trail. In the summer, the area supposedly swarms with novice backpackers, but in November, it was not crowded at all. We passed 2 groups leaving and had 2 other groups on the trail with us to the valley.
After two days of hiking Waimea Canyon, my wife and I set off at 5:30 AM from Hanalei, the closest village to the trailhead. It takes most folks take 7-10 hours to do the out trip, so we wanted to arrive with time to relax on the beach. We hit the trail at about 7:15 Am and immediately climbed up 500' or so...then down...then up...you get the picture. The trail was no joke - a real butt kicker. There are no flat sections except for the very end - you're always climbing or descending, weaving in and out of the valleys and rain forest. The reward is when you reach the pinnacle of each peak, with amazing views of the coastline. Our campsite was right next to the beach, and the 20-30' surf sounded like a jet engine all night. We spent the next day exploring the Kalalau Valley - getting lost, really, and another day simply doing nothing on the beach. The hike out was a wet, muddy slog that took it out of us. Due to the weather, we didn't get as many good photos, but these give a nice overview of the trail.
First two miles - nice and maintained. It didn't rain this day, so it was dry going in (trip out, not so much).
These rewarding views helped motivate us through the slog
One of the wider sections of trail, but you can see behind me how it drops off
One of the valleys you hike through to get to Kalalau Beach
Switchbacks! What a great idea...but mostly, you're going straight up or down.
My wife has a decent fear of heights. She overcame this phobia on crawler's ledge, and this is her just after that section.
There is a trail there somewhere.
More rewarding views
Final 1.5 miles flattens out a bit toward the Kalalau Valley. You can see the beach at the end.
View behind you as you sit on Kalalau Beach, including the water source for the camping area. You literally fill up from the "faucet" here.
Sunset Night 1. So many great sunset photos!
Exploring the Kalalau Valley "trails". We got hopelessly lost, but if you follow any stream, it leads you to the main river, where you can find your way out.
Despite a constant rain this day, we decided to hike in 2 miles to the "big pool", which is surrounded by cascades. COLD! Are we in the mountains? I didn't get many photos due to the weather, but it was an amazing place.
Misty morning
Some of the fauna. Lots of wild goats and pigs
On our trek out in the one of the less muddy sections.
We took a helicopter tour on our last day in Kauai, and below are some rather poor shots of the Kalalau Beach and trail. It was raining and foggy, but this gives a nice perspective of the craggy peaks that you must hike across. You can somewhat see the trail on the last shot.
