Suggestions in a Yellowstone and a Beartooth trip

Ymyr

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First of all, forgive my level of English. I am from the south of Spain and my written English is not very good. I understand it when I read but have to use google translate many times when I have to write it.

On the other hand, allow me to introduce myself. My name is Alejandro, I am 44 years old and I live, as I have said, in the south of Spain. Here backpacking, as you understand it, is very different because it is practically forbidden to put the tent anywhere that is not a Campground. For me this is very frustrating, I want to put my tent in the wilderness or if I must do it in a camp in something which looks wild as your backcountry camps. Also I love the landscapes and the wildlife that you could find when you’re hiking or backpacking in Northern United States or Canada.

Because of those things, I decided that every summer I would go a couple weeks to North America to do some hiking and backpacking routes.

Last summer I went with my nephew to the Cascade Range and we had a great time. We went too early (July 15th) and had to make some changes to our plans because of snow was huge in many places.

The following summer we will go to Canadian Rockies: Kananaskis, Banff and Yoho, but a week later (our start dates will always be around July 22)

And now I’m planning a trip for the summer of 2024. Yes, too early, but I really enjoy making plans. I’m thinking in two options: the first one is Glacier National Park and more or less the plan is closed. Different hikes and one backpacking route of 4 days and 3 nights. The landscapes is just incredible but it’s so crowded that I think in another option looking for some solitude: Yellowstone with Beartooths. The idea would be different: a 5 days – 4 nights backpacking trip in Yellowstone, 2 days sightseeing in the park (I already know the National Park because I was there with my wife in 2013 but my nephew would go for first time) and then a 4 days – 3 nights backcountry trip in the Beartooths. And in these two backcountry trips I have doubts about whether they can be done or which is better, because in Yellowstone I have thought in two trips.

Option A in Yellowstone for a 5 days – 4 night backcountry trip (65 miles)

Day 1: Lamar River trailhead – Miller Creek. Camp in Appaloosa Meadows (10.5 miles) This day we will drive from Billings, so it will be a not early start.

Day 2: Appaloosa Meadows to Hoodoo Basin. Camp in 3M7. (13,5 miles)

Day 3: Here is my doubt if it is possible. From the camp, following the boundary until reach East Fork Red Creek Trail. I saw in an old Joey’s video that following the boundary looks pretty easy but he descended via Little Lamar River, not far from the Trail. I don’t know why he did it, if it was a very exposed descend to reach Red Creek Trail. Then we will take west fork red creek Trail and camp anywhere. (Maybe 18-20 miles)

Day 4: From where we camp – Frost Lake Trail – Lamar River Trail – Camp in Warm Spring Meadow or a nearest camp if you suggest another one (12 -14 miles)

Day 5: Go out (13.5 miles)

Option B in Yellowstone for a 5 days – 4 night backcountry trip. I don’t know the mileage but this trip is more doable.

Day 1: Lamar RIver Trailhead – Opal Creek – Try to get 3M1 camp

Day 2: Off Trail. Mirror Plateau – visit Mirror Lake – Camp Wapiti Lake

Day 3: In the morning visit Hot Spring Basin and then Pelican Creek or Astrigent Creek Trails (I don’t know which is more beautiful) Myst Creek Trail. Camp in Myst Creek Pass or Meadows (suggestions)

Day 4: Myst Creek Trail – Lamar River. Camp in Warm Spring Meadow

Day 5: Go out.

I think the option B is easiest but I would know if someone do the option A.

Then in the Beartooths I have thought in this 4 day – 3 nights trip (all the suggestions and thoughts would be awesowe)

Day 1: Leave the rental car in Clarks Fork Picnic Area. Hitchhike to Island Lake and from there go to Crystal Lake. I don’t know if it is very ambitious. I know there is a path until Albino Lake, then is route finding. (10 or 11 miles)

Day 2: Off Trail. Crystal Lake – Alp Lake – Erratic Lake – Robble Lake – Till and Gravel Lake – Big Butte Lake – Desolation Lake – Z Lake where we Will camp. (7 miles)

Day 3: Off trail: Z lake – Lake of the winds – Gallery Lake – Unnamed Lake – Fossil Lake (4 miles) Then on trail we will camp in Dewey Lake but we hike to Impasse Falls and back (5 miles)

Day 4: Go out via The Beaten Path to Clarks Fork. 13 miles.

If we find a difficult navigation we will go out from Crystal Lake to Green Lake and the follow the Trail via Elaine – Jorden – Otter and Mariane Lake to reach the beaten path.

And that’s it. Any suggestions, recomendations will be appreciated.
 
Option B in Yellowstone is better than A, but keep in mind that any off-trail travel in that park can be tedious and slow with tons of matchsticks blowdown or marshes. You could also approach Wapiti from Specimen Ridge going off-trail to make a loop with almost no retracement. The off-trail looks easy-ish at first, but then probably tough as you get closer to the lake.
Option A will have even more intense bushwhacking along the Little Lamar even if the ridge walk isn't too bad, and that area is truly wild with grizzlies that won't be expecting to see people. I started that trip once but didn't finish.
I'd actually drop your sightseeing days in Yellowstone from 2 to 1 and only show your nephew Old Faithful and Grand Prismatic and a waterfall/animals from the road. Then use the extra day to do a 5-night Thorofare trip instead of Option A or B. You can stay on trail the whole time but it will still feel very wild and beautiful and exciting.
Save your off-trail travel for the Beartooths. There will be lots of rock-hopping, but the navigation is easy with no bushwhacking and you can almost always make multiple lines work because because the terrain is gentle in terms of topography. I did that exact trip from the opposite direction last year. I was with a fairly slow partner, but I'd still give yourself 5 days instead of 4, especially since you're planning to hitchhike whereas we had 2 cars. Travel can be a bit slow sometimes and there's always a chance there will still be snow cover in July.
If you're showing up in the USA without permits, Glacier might be difficult to get your desired trips on short notice, whereas Yellowstone has more options that should be available and of course there are no permits in the Beartooths.
No offense to our northern neighbors, but I'd just skip Canada and move the USA trip to this year. They have tons of wilderness, but somehow the most popular routes seem less wild and more regulated than ours--more like New Zealand or Europe.
 
One how much experience off trail do you have? The GYE / Beartooth area off trail is not the same as anywhere else. On the ground mileage tends to be 12 to 15% more than what the map shows, most trails are close but can be longer. Even trails shown on the maps are not always maintained and are poor.

Problem with Yellowstone is there are not a lot of loop hikes. A lot of point to point, without a car you have to rely on hitch hiking, sometimes easy sometimes not. I did Lamar TH to Miller Creek to Hoodoo Basin, Parker Mtn and down the Little Lamar to the Lamar and out. Little Lamar was not bad. You can go around the top of the ridge from that Hoodoo Basin trail to Frost Lake and back to Lamar and out. Around the Little Lamar and Frost lk was really burned in 1988, and does not have much growth still.

Mirror Plateau has limited camp permits and has a small window when its open for camping. Could be a hard dayhike.

Beartooth. If you havent done a lot of glaciated boulder stuff you wont like it, its slow and tedious. Ive down your first part its 12 long actual miles to Crystal Lake... No trail after you leave Albino Lake, I wouldnt do Crystal in a day, but thats me its about 12M. The Beaten Path is just that ...... Beaten. As nice or better elsewhere. Id loop back to Island lake. You can make a nice loop from Fossil Lake if you can make it that far and out in 4 days, but youd have to hike fast and/or long hours. Take your time enjoy the scenery, shorter mileage.

If you have access to caltopo.com, plan your trip there. Transfer the route to GoogleEarth.com to see it on the ground in satellite photos. Personally I dont plan on the map more than 8 miles a day ....its always longer. You will need bearspray, some way to hang food, water filter. Snow can occur anytime in both places.

If you want, send me a direct message by clicking under my name and click start conversation.

Permits in Parks in canada can be tough to get. Check out parks.canada.ca
 
I can't help you with Yellowstone, but you might consider some research in the Sierra Nevada, specifically Sequoia and Kings CanyonParks (SEKI). You could fly into Las Angles and start on the west side or fly into Las Vegas and start on the east side. Either airport would be about a 4 - 5 hour drive but a lot easier and probably cheaper than Yellowstone flights. The benefit of SEKI beyond amazing scenary is that once you have a permit, you can camp almost anywhere, so you have a lot of flexibility. I have some trip reports here (search SEKI) and I'd be happy to answer any questions.
 
Option B in Yellowstone is better than A, but keep in mind that any off-trail travel in that park can be tedious and slow with tons of matchsticks blowdown or marshes. You could also approach Wapiti from Specimen Ridge going off-trail to make a loop with almost no retracement. The off-trail looks easy-ish at first, but then probably tough as you get closer to the lake.
Option A will have even more intense bushwhacking along the Little Lamar even if the ridge walk isn't too bad, and that area is truly wild with grizzlies that won't be expecting to see people. I started that trip once but didn't finish.
I'd actually drop your sightseeing days in Yellowstone from 2 to 1 and only show your nephew Old Faithful and Grand Prismatic and a waterfall/animals from the road. Then use the extra day to do a 5-night Thorofare trip instead of Option A or B. You can stay on trail the whole time but it will still feel very wild and beautiful and exciting.
Save your off-trail travel for the Beartooths. There will be lots of rock-hopping, but the navigation is easy with no bushwhacking and you can almost always make multiple lines work because because the terrain is gentle in terms of topography. I did that exact trip from the opposite direction last year. I was with a fairly slow partner, but I'd still give yourself 5 days instead of 4, especially since you're planning to hitchhike whereas we had 2 cars. Travel can be a bit slow sometimes and there's always a chance there will still be snow cover in July.
If you're showing up in the USA without permits, Glacier might be difficult to get your desired trips on short notice, whereas Yellowstone has more options that should be available and of course there are no permits in the Beartooths.
No offense to our northern neighbors, but I'd just skip Canada and move the USA trip to this year. They have tons of wilderness, but somehow the most popular routes seem less wild and more regulated than ours--more like New Zealand or Europe.
First thanks for your reply. As expected option b is better than a. I have a very little experience in off trail travel but I think these backcountry trips would be a good way to get into them. And yes, would be better approach Mirror Plateau from Specimen Ridge and going off trail 1 mile before Amethist Mt.

The problem with Thorofare is the logistics. We will have only one car. Maybe start in 9 mile trailhead and then Eagle Pass - Mountain creek trail to Eagle Pass and down to Eagle Campground and hitchhiking would be doable, but our goal is wildlife and I thought that Lamar is the better choice. Anyway I have to study Thorofare area further.

Thanks for your thoughts about Beartooths. If we have problems with the hitchhike could we stay on trails and do the trip.

Don't worry, if we go to Glacier we will have the permits since the first week when they open. ;)

Yes, I know Canada is less wild in their popular routes (and we are gonna do some of them - our backpacking trip is the very popular Mt. Assiniboine adding Egypt Lake - ) I was hesitating between going to Canada or GNP because the trip is built in a very similar way (Day hikes and one popular backpacking trip of 4-5 days) and my international airport of entry is Calgary but I read that in Canada minors don't have to pay the National Parks entrance and my nephew is 17, so... I decided to do GNP trip another summer and save some money because going to Canadian Rockies we want to go.
 
One how much experience off trail do you have? The GYE / Beartooth area off trail is not the same as anywhere else. On the ground mileage tends to be 12 to 15% more than what the map shows, most trails are close but can be longer. Even trails shown on the maps are not always maintained and are poor.

Problem with Yellowstone is there are not a lot of loop hikes. A lot of point to point, without a car you have to rely on hitch hiking, sometimes easy sometimes not. I did Lamar TH to Miller Creek to Hoodoo Basin, Parker Mtn and down the Little Lamar to the Lamar and out. Little Lamar was not bad. You can go around the top of the ridge from that Hoodoo Basin trail to Frost Lake and back to Lamar and out. Around the Little Lamar and Frost lk was really burned in 1988, and does not have much growth still.

Mirror Plateau has limited camp permits and has a small window when its open for camping. Could be a hard dayhike.

Beartooth. If you havent done a lot of glaciated boulder stuff you wont like it, its slow and tedious. Ive down your first part its 12 long actual miles to Crystal Lake... No trail after you leave Albino Lake, I wouldnt do Crystal in a day, but thats me its about 12M. The Beaten Path is just that ...... Beaten. As nice or better elsewhere. Id loop back to Island lake. You can make a nice loop from Fossil Lake if you can make it that far and out in 4 days, but youd have to hike fast and/or long hours. Take your time enjoy the scenery, shorter mileage.

If you have access to caltopo.com, plan your trip there. Transfer the route to GoogleEarth.com to see it on the ground in satellite photos. Personally I dont plan on the map more than 8 miles a day ....its always longer. You will need bearspray, some way to hang food, water filter. Snow can occur anytime in both places.

If you want, send me a direct message by clicking under my name and click start conversation.

Permits in Parks in canada can be tough to get. Check out parks.canada.ca
Oh, the mighty Bob. Remember I was watching Joey's Wind River Range trip with you some weeks ago and then looking for information about backcountry trips in the Beartooths I found this incredible forum with many members who appears in his videos. It's awesome.

My off trail experience tends to zero. Yes, I do some navigation where I live but it's relatively easy because is almost a desert and no tree cover your sights.

Yes, I have found difficult to find a loop which cover the zone I was looking for (Lamar) I see on maps one: Lamar TH - Miller Creek - Hoodoo Basin - Enter in North Absarokas Wilderness and Shoeshone National Forest and take the Sunlight Rd to Pahaska Sunlight Trail - West Fork Red Creek and then again in YNP Frost Lake - Lamar River to the TH. But is a large trip (75-80 miles) and looks in satellite images that there are many downfalls and don't know the maintenance of the trails out of YNP.

Mirror Plateau would depend if we can get the permits and yes, we will have a hard dayhike to Wapiti.

I don't use GoogleEarth, but I could. I have used 3D satellite images from Alltrails. Yes I will buy bearspray (it's any place where rent them? then I can't introduce it in planes) and yes I will need a pole or tree to hang food, I don't have ursack and bear canister are so huge and heavy... I use Katadyn 1Liter for filtering.

Thanks for all

Waiting parks Canada open the season for permits.
 
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I can't help you with Yellowstone, but you might consider some research in the Sierra Nevada, specifically Sequoia and Kings CanyonParks (SEKI). You could fly into Las Angles and start on the west side or fly into Las Vegas and start on the east side. Either airport would be about a 4 - 5 hour drive but a lot easier and probably cheaper than Yellowstone flights. The benefit of SEKI beyond amazing scenary is that once you have a permit, you can camp almost anywhere, so you have a lot of flexibility. I have some trip reports here (search SEKI) and I'd be happy to answer any questions.
Nice to know that thing about SEKI permits. I watched some videos of Kings Canyon and looks amazing. At first I'm more interested in Washington - Idaho - Montana and Wyoming zone, but never say never.

On the other hand, I'm not closed to these backcountry trips. Yes in the zone next to Yellowstone. Spot wildlife is important for us but if I say the truth, and don't kill me, the scenary in Yellowstone N. P. isn't the most stunning, thermal zones apart. For example, I prefer Tetons scenary. I watched an incredible video from @norwegianxplorer that started in Turpin Meadows and that scenary is out of this world. Suggested loop routes will be very appreciated. Others possibilities are from Slough Creek go north and do a loop. I will have 11 or 12 real days (other 3 for airplanes) and the idea is the same: 2 backpacking trips and 2 days or 1, as suggested futurafree for sightseeing
 
You can do a Thorofare trip with just one vehicle by starting and ending at the Heart Lake Trailhead. It would be a lollipop loop with only the approximately eight miles to Heart Lake that you would have to cover twice.

Thorofare_Lollipop_Loop_from_Heart_Lake_Trailhead.jpg
 

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I'm sure your Mt. Assiniboine trip will be incredibly beautiful, and similar to a Glacier trip in terms of crowds and regulations. I don't mind those things as much when I have a travel partner, like you will.
I'd get the new 2XL Ursack. For a tiny weight penalty, you'll be able to store both people's food overnight in a single bag even if your nephew carries his own food during the day. You can hang it up high in Yellowstone (required), use it regularly in the Beartooths, and it can deter mice/critters in non-bear areas. Your Canada trip might have bear boxes everywhere.
As Bob said, Yellowstone doesn't have great loop trips. One almost loop is to go from Dogshead/Channel trailhead to Shoshone Lake, Mr. Bubbles, Dununda Falls, more waterfalls, across Pitchstone Plateau, and end on the road less than 5 miles from where you parked. The last 5 miles would be an easy hitch or road walk. Thorofare has similar hitch situations if you go from Heart Lake trailhead to South Boundary along the same road. Lamar River might be your best bet for seeing large mammals (esp. wolves), and the further you go into areas with less people, the better the animals are at avoiding you before you can see them. No matter what, you will always see more animals from the car than in the backcountry! I used to feel the same way about Yellowstone scenery, but now it feels just as beautiful as the mountains in its own way. I would leave the Norwegian Xplorer's trip that started at Turpin Meadows for later because it looks like a brutal bushwhack that's mostly off-trail with no easy bail-outs.
If you're excited about the Tetons, check out the Teton Crest Trail. Or Joey's videos where he goes to Ortenberger Lake. You can make your own shorter version with less total time off-trail.
Consider starting your off-trail career gently, with only small sections at a time. In general, just expect any off-trail trip to go much slower than you expect. Even 1 mile per hour in some places. There has been more than one trip where I ended up almost running out of food or trimming the total route because of how unexpectedly slow things went.
 
I can add more when typing on a real keyboard but just a quick reply from my phone... the Beartooths are a great place for off trail hiking, but making it to Crystal Lake in a day may or may not be a great idea. I'd probably break it into a couple days. That said, the following link is a trip I did back in 2008 that covers some of your intended Beartooth route. Making a solid loop from either Beartooth Lake or Island Lake can be easily done, lots of options to choose from. I'd recommend 5 days, maybe 6 for the route you posted. 5-6 mile days are about what I feel you should plan for when you are off trail and above treeline in the Beartooths. Longer days can be done, but 5-6 miles is better for a beginner in off trail hiking, and is much more enjoyable.

 
I'm sure your Mt. Assiniboine trip will be incredibly beautiful, and similar to a Glacier trip in terms of crowds and regulations. I don't mind those things as much when I have a travel partner, like you will.
I'd get the new 2XL Ursack. For a tiny weight penalty, you'll be able to store both people's food overnight in a single bag even if your nephew carries his own food during the day. You can hang it up high in Yellowstone (required), use it regularly in the Beartooths, and it can deter mice/critters in non-bear areas. Your Canada trip might have bear boxes everywhere.
As Bob said, Yellowstone doesn't have great loop trips. One almost loop is to go from Dogshead/Channel trailhead to Shoshone Lake, Mr. Bubbles, Dununda Falls, more waterfalls, across Pitchstone Plateau, and end on the road less than 5 miles from where you parked. The last 5 miles would be an easy hitch or road walk. Thorofare has similar hitch situations if you go from Heart Lake trailhead to South Boundary along the same road. Lamar River might be your best bet for seeing large mammals (esp. wolves), and the further you go into areas with less people, the better the animals are at avoiding you before you can see them. No matter what, you will always see more animals from the car than in the backcountry! I used to feel the same way about Yellowstone scenery, but now it feels just as beautiful as the mountains in its own way. I would leave the Norwegian Xplorer's trip that started at Turpin Meadows for later because it looks like a brutal bushwhack that's mostly off-trail with no easy bail-outs.
If you're excited about the Tetons, check out the Teton Crest Trail. Or Joey's videos where he goes to Ortenberger Lake. You can make your own shorter version with less total time off-trail.
Consider starting your off-trail career gently, with only small sections at a time. In general, just expect any off-trail trip to go much slower than you expect. Even 1 mile per hour in some places. There has been more than one trip where I ended up almost running out of food or trimming the total route because of how unexpectedly slow things went.
Thanks for your encouragement. Assiniboine would be our first "medium" backpacking trip - I refer to the days we will spent - and think it will be better doing it with more backpackers around.

Seriously thinking about buying an Ursack for the future trips. I have to read more about this "bag"

The problem I have is that I have to choose properly which two trips I'm going to do in the area, because they will surely be the only ones I'll do and there are so many interesting ones that sometimes it's overwhelming. That is why I thank you for all the recommendations and possibilities that you offer me.

And of course, Norwegian Xplorer's trip I won't do it, I referred to the scenery I saw in that video. And looking in maps there some interesting loops which start in Turpin Meadows. One point in favor of doing the backpacking trip through the Teton Wilderness is that you don't have to sleep in pre-selected areas, you can do it wherever you want.

And yes, I remember a Joey's video where he goes to Ortenberger Lake in July. He went with Chuck and the scenery is stunning but that trip is really really brutal.
 
I can add more when typing on a real keyboard but just a quick reply from my phone... the Beartooths are a great place for off trail hiking, but making it to Crystal Lake in a day may or may not be a great idea. I'd probably break it into a couple days. That said, the following link is a trip I did back in 2008 that covers some of your intended Beartooth route. Making a solid loop from either Beartooth Lake or Island Lake can be easily done, lots of options to choose from. I'd recommend 5 days, maybe 6 for the route you posted. 5-6 mile days are about what I feel you should plan for when you are off trail and above treeline in the Beartooths. Longer days can be done, but 5-6 miles is better for a beginner in off trail hiking, and is much more enjoyable.

Ok, then it would be more appropriate to sleep the first day in Jasper, for example. As I said in the message above, the good thing about backpacking in these areas is that you can adapt the trip to the circumstances.

And thanks for the link. Something similar happened to me when I visited Yellowstone in 2013 with my wife. We came from Billings and took the Beartooth Hwy and when we were crossing it we thought how could it be possible that this beauty is no part of the national park. Just incredible.
 
Ok, then it would be more appropriate to sleep the first day in Jasper, for example. As I said in the message above, the good thing about backpacking in these areas is that you can adapt the trip to the circumstances.

And thanks for the link. Something similar happened to me when I visited Yellowstone in 2013 with my wife. We came from Billings and took the Beartooth Hwy and when we were crossing it we thought how could it be possible that this beauty is no part of the national park. Just incredible.
It will depend a little on how early you start on the first day. But there aren't much for options for good camping between Jasper and Crystal. I've hiked from Island Lake to Albino and back as a day hike, and Jasper isn't that much further. If you do get to Jasper early, could certainly do a lot of exploring in the area.
 
Here is a Beartooth trip, about 33miles, we did similar to what you are looking at:

Click here to view on CalTopo
Here are two Yellowstone trips what you are looking at. Blue is one trip we did, about 50miles. Red is a trip a friend did, about 64miles. Either are not hard. Either are easier than the Beartooth's, but Beartooth's aren't bad navigating, just rock.

Click here to view on CalTopo
 
You can do a Thorofare trip with just one vehicle by starting and ending at the Heart Lake Trailhead. It would be a lollipop loop with only the approximately eight miles to Heart Lake that you would have to cover twice.

View attachment 118141

Another one over 50 miles???
 
Bob, thanks for sharing those trips. The red one looks pretty similar to one of the two i thought. Now I'm collecting info about Teton Wilderness. This area looks really wild and I falling in love with it
 
Bob, thanks for sharing those trips. The red one looks pretty similar to one of the two i thought. Now I'm collecting info about Teton Wilderness. This area looks really wild and I falling in love with it
It's a lot harder than the ones I sent you.
 
Option A in Yellowstone for a 5 days – 4 night backcountry trip (65 miles)

Day 1: Lamar River trailhead – Miller Creek. Camp in Appaloosa Meadows (10.5 miles) This day we will drive from Billings, so it will be a not early start.

Day 2: Appaloosa Meadows to Hoodoo Basin. Camp in 3M7. (13,5 miles)

Day 3: Here is my doubt if it is possible. From the camp, following the boundary until reach East Fork Red Creek Trail. I saw in an old Joey’s video that following the boundary looks pretty easy but he descended via Little Lamar River, not far from the Trail. I don’t know why he did it, if it was a very exposed descend to reach Red Creek Trail. Then we will take west fork red creek Trail and camp anywhere. (Maybe 18-20 miles)

Day 4: From where we camp – Frost Lake Trail – Lamar River Trail – Camp in Warm Spring Meadow or a nearest camp if you suggest another one (12 -14 miles)

Day 5: Go out (13.5 miles)
No, I mean to the trip of the message above ;)
 
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