Pilgrim Creek - Teton Wilderness - October 7, 2016

[scatman]

I headed up to the Teton Wilderness for my last backpacking trip of the year over the Columbus Day weekend. Our route took us up Pilgrim Creek where we established a base camp and then the following two days completed day hikes up what I call the West Fork of Pilgrim Creek (unnamed on map) on the first and one to the headwaters of Pilgrim Creek for the second. @Georgia Yankee , this one is for you.

As we approached the trailhead on Pilgrim Creek, we saw off to our right (south) a grizzly bear foraging in the sage brush meadow. We took some shots out of the window and continued on to the trailhead. It took us a few minutes to get everything together and get a group picture before heading on up the trail. The weather was overcast, temps in the low forties, fairly good breeze blowing and it had obviously been snowing the last couple of days. This made the trail extremely muddy along our route.

Grizzly bear near trailhead

Our escape vehicle

No sadder group of four individuals will you ever see

Sloppy going

Our first day would take us approximately 5.5 miles upstream where we would locate a camp along Pilgrim Creek. The trail initially starts out as a dirt road before eventually turning into a regular trail. Along this road, we ran into an outfitters camp that at first seemed unoccupied. I was drawn to the corral where there were a number of horses and mules. I love mules! If ever there were an animal that said "Scatman", it would be a mule. After taking a couple of pictures, a woman began calling out from within the camp. She needed help getting a five gallon gas tank off of a platform fifteen feet in the air. She needed the gas to fire up a generator in order to electrify the electric fence to keep grizzlies out of the camp. The car battery just wasn't doing the trick. After helping her get it down, she asked if there was anything she could do for us. I told her that she could lend us a mule to carry our packs to our camp! She didn't seem to like that idea too much though, so we were off again without a pack animal.

Now on our way to camp, you have to cross Pilgrim Creek twenty one times! Of course looking at the map, it appeared we would only be crossing it thirteen times. Must be the Scatman Coefficient at work again. The mud never ended on our way up the creek and because of the slop, it took us four hours to reach camp.

Slop and more slop

Mules! Love 'em.

Wilderness boundary

Pilgrim Creek

Crossing Pilgrim Creek

Trail through willows

More willows

View up Pilgrim Creek

Standing water in the trail

Some snow too - thought the skies are starting to clear

Nearing camp

Once at camp we set up quickly due to not much day light left. For the three nights we were there the lowest it got was 19 degrees. The first night though, it only got down to 25 and the sun would not hit our campsite until 9:52 in the morning.

My tent

Beginning of day two on Pilgrim Creek

Our first day hike on day two would take us up the West Pilgrim Trail which is no longer maintained. The trail intersects with the Pilgrim Creek Trail in a meadow just across the creek from our campsite. The intersection is marked with a pole but the old trail cannot be detected in the meadow. It took a little searching just within the tree line for us to pick it up and begin following it. Once we were on the trail, it was easy to follow though it does have some downfall across it in places, not a discouraging amount though. The trail follows what I term the West Fork of Pilgrim Creek for a good portion of its length. Unfortunately for us, the trail conditions were worse than the day before with large clumps of mud sticking to our boots as we made our way up the drainage. After about 3.5 miles up, we had had enough and made our way down to the creek for lunch. After lunch, we decided to bushwhack down the creek instead of returning on the trail. This turned out to be a gorgeous hike along the creek until the canyon narrowed and we could not make our way around a small waterfall. So we backtracked a bit and climbed the hill until we reached the trail again and headed back to camp.

The post where the West Pilgrim Trail intersects with the Pilgrim Creek Trail

First glimpse of Wildcat Ridge

Unnamed creek - I called it the West Fork of Pilgrim Creek

Fall colors along the trail. Does anyone know what this plant is?

Crossing West Fork of Pilgrim Creek

Snow is now covering the trail at this point

Wildcat Ridge and Wildcat Peak

Lunch time! This is for @Joey , there must be an elk carcass around here somewhere.

Obviously the better half of Scatman! On the first night at camp, I bent over to get a pullover out of my tent when I ripped the seam in the seat of my pants. It didn't bother me too much, but those unfortunate enough to hike behind me for the rest of the trip might have a different opinion than me.

A group shot after lunch

Hiking off trail down the creek, looking back at Wildcat Ridge

Still hiking down the creek

Heading back to camp after returning to the trail

West Pilgrim Trail - no longer maintained

View to the northeast from our campsite

Tool of the trade

One of my backpacking partner's antique stove

On day three, our second day hike, took two of us to the headwaters of Pilgrim Creek. The first part of the trail took us through willows but soon it became more wooded and the steepness began to increase. The trail conditions in the morning were good, as in frozen, which helped us along. The conditions would turn to mud in the afternoon as we made our way back. As we reached the headwaters, we climbed a small ridge to get an excellent view of the Tetons and the whole Pilgrim Creek Drainage in one direction and Bobcat Ridge in the other. We decided this is where we would eat our lunches. We stayed up top for an hour before heading back down and on to camp. The trail at this point was a mess again. Besides the views from the upper trail, the neat part about this hike was that after the Middle Fork of the Pilgrim we were following grizzly tracks all the way up.

When we got back to camp , our camp mates had been busy making some rock art along the creek.

Heading through the willows at the beginning of our second day hike

Grouse track

A smaller Pilgrim Creek

More fall colors

Whetstone Mountain

View of the Tetons and the Pilgrim Creek Drainage

Another view of the Tetons in the distance

Bobcat Ridge

Yep - more fall colors

Tetons again

Pilgrim Creek

Rock art along Pilgrim Creek

Chilin' around the campfire before calling it a night

The last day we woke up a little earlier, packed up and headed back for the trailhead. The trail out was much easier to hike than when we came in. Enough stretches had dried to the point that you could avoid the slop for the most part. On our way out we met the outfitter who own had the mules. He was headed in to break down his camp that we passed but somehow never saw. Fortunately he left a couple of mules and a couple of horses at his camp back near the trailhead and I got to pet one of the horses and a mule on the way out.

Pilgrim Creek on the way out

View again up Pilgrim Creek - still frosty in the shade

The outfitter and one of his mules. This guy and the woman we helped at the start of our trip were the only two people that we encountered on the trip.

Pilgrim Creek

Pilgrim Creek at a crossing

Mules again

Nice hornets nest about one mile form the trailhead

Grizzly tracks along the trail

We made it! Remember, the road is closed!

Overall, a nice little trip. Other than the first day, the weather was excellent for hiking even if the trails weren't in good condition. I thought there would be an opportunity to see some bears along the drainage but the only one we saw was near the parking lot of the trailhead on our way in. The Pilgrim Creek Drainage certainly has a wild feel to it with the first half making your way through willows and the second half through lodgepole. Our scariest encounters turned out to be with grouse on numerous occasions. They can sure make your heart stop for a moment. If you're contemplating this route, bring some good boots and gaiters for all the creek crossings you'll do. It would take a lot of time to change into sandals if that is your preference.

Before I end this long winded report, I wanted to give props to a pair of boots. The night before I left on this trip, I tried to try on my old boots and I could not get my feet in them anymore. Panicked, I pulled out a brand new pair of boots that I had bought last year and stored under my bed. The are Lowa Tibet GTX boots and they preformed splendidly. Having never been worn before, they not only kept the water out after all the creek crossings, but I also did not get a single blister from them and I found them to be quite comfortable on my feet to boot. So if you are in the market for a new pair of boots be sure and give them a look.

 

[Kmatjhwy]

Scatman, Great trip report and Thanks for all of the photos. Yes isn't the Pilgrim Creek Area such a nice and wild place. Glad that you and your party made it even with all of the snow. I was thinking of you during the time. Again Thanks! Wishing You the Best!

 

[wsp_scott]

It is a good thing you had camo underneath your pants, no one could see the tear

looks like a good fall trip, makes me ready for winter in the SE Appalachians

 

[Jackson]

Another great report, @scatman. Late-season trips to the Absarokas look fantastic. I also figured you would have seen more bears, given the season, but I guess it's partially luck as to whether you see them or not.

And I have to ask, did you intend the pun you made here when talking about the new boots?

I found them to be quite comfortable on my feet to boot.

 

[Jon Carbaugh]

Looks like a great time Hugh, wish I could have made it. Someone beat me to the camo underwear comment so I'll refrain...
I think I'll check out those boots. You know my lightweight breathables I like to hike in won't cut it in that stuff!
Great report!

Cheers!

 

[Absarokanaut]

When I was a kid we never rode into this part of the Wilderness, it was too rugged more often than not. I hiked up there in my late teens and back then the grizz tracks I saw were a novelty. We see them on that road quite a bit these days.

Thanks for sharing. Great stuff as always.

 

[scatman]

Another great report, @scatman. Late-season trips to the Absarokas look fantastic. I also figured you would have seen more bears, given the season, but I guess it's partially luck as to whether you see them or not.

And I have to ask, did you intend the pun you made here when talking about the new boots?

It's always been luck for me @Jackson, except for my trip up the North Fork of the Yellowstone while the bears were feeding on moths around Yount's Peak.

I should have put "pun intended" in parenthesis for the boots.

 

[scatman]

Looks like a great time Hugh, wish I could have made it. Someone beat me to the camo underwear comment so I'll refrain...
I think I'll check out those boots. You know my lightweight breathables I like to hike in won't cut it in that stuff!
Great report!

Cheers!

Hard to see me with the cameo on isn't it?

I was going to wear my Moab Ventilators on this trip but when it snowed for a couple of days before we hiked in, I decided to switch to boots instead. I think it was the right decision.

Be sure and keep the Columbus Day Weekend open next year! I'll be heading somewhere in the Teton Wilderness again.

 

[scatman]

When I was a kid we never rode into this part of the Wilderness, it was too rugged more often than not. I hiked up there in my late teens and back then the grizz tracks I saw were a novelty. We see them on that road quite a bit these days.

Thanks for sharing. Great stuff as always.

When I started backpacking about thirty years ago, it took me a number of years to see a bear in the backcountry and their tracks were not as common, except in the Thorofare, as I believe they are today. Pilgrim Creek had an endless supply of tracks going every which way, particularly the upper half of the trail.

 

[Jackson]

It's always been luck for me @Jackson, except for my trip up the North Fork of the Yellowstone while the bears were feeding on moths around Yount's Peak.

I should have put "pun intended" in parenthesis for the boots.

I recently read Mark of the Grizzly, and it seemed like the majority of the detailed encounters occurred late in the season with the bears out foraging and such. Granted, that may not be the most representative sample since it focused on attacks rather than mere sightings.
The bigger plans I make never seem to work out, but I'm hoping to get out there to that area (hopefully the Yellowstone headwaters) next year.

And the subtlety of the pun was great.

 

[scatman]

I recently read Mark of the Grizzly, and it seemed like the majority of the detailed encounters occurred late in the season with the bears out foraging and such. Granted, that may not be the most representative sample since it focused on attacks rather than mere sightings.
The bigger plans I make never seem to work out, but I'm hoping to get out there to that area (hopefully the Yellowstone headwaters) next year.

And the subtlety of the pun was great.

I hope you can make it up to the headwaters next year. You won't regret it. The bears should be feeding on the moths mid July through August and maybe the first part of September if the weather cooperates. Look for the old Forest Service Trail up the North Fork. You should be able to pick it up in the trees just north of the confluence of the North and South Forks of the Yellowstone. Not sure how you plan on heading in, but if I can be of any help just let me know.

 

[Kmatjhwy]

Jackson, like Scatman, have been up around Younts Peak a number of times. Such a superb and wild place. Hope you can make it. As for myself, it seems about everytime I get up around Younts Peak, have seen many Grizzlies rather it is July or August and with some close encounters. And when I went, most of the time was just by myself like I prefer. And like Scatman said, Younts Peak is a cutworm moth site. So in all over in this area, one needs to be careful and on the lookout for Grizzlies. Yes one can go up the North Fork and up it with at the pass at the upper end over to the South Fork of the Yellowstone, or even over to the head of Thorofare Creek / River in another direction. One could spend all summer all over this area and never have a bad day as long as they kept away safe and sound from the Grizzlies. Personally I trust them the bears more then people these days it seems. And also now personally I plan to be back in this area next summer myself hanging out for a good long while. As for climbing Younts Peak, going up the west slope of Younts Peak is an easy walkup. People have even ridden horses to the top of Younts Peak in the past. Up on top of Younts Peak one can see for miles and miles in every direction. Like Scatman, if you have any questions, then would be happy to help you out.

Wishing Everyone the Best!

 

[Georgia Yankee]

Thanks for the trip report, @scatman. I hope to get up that way some day, hopefully under drier trail conditions! And wow, a Svea 123! Don't see those too often...

 

[Jon Carbaugh]

Be sure and keep the Columbus Day Weekend open next year! I'll be heading somewhere in the Teton Wilderness again.

Will do Hugh!

 

[scatman]

Thanks for the trip report, @scatman. I hope to get up that way some day, hopefully under drier trail conditions! And wow, a Svea 123! Don't see those too often...

According to Corey, who owns the Svea 123, he got it from his dad who purchased it in 1961.

 

[Vegan.Hiker]

Great report Hugh. I love how you always pick spots that are true rugged wilderness. I always get a great sense of adventure reading your reports.

 

[Artemus]

Another goody Scat!

How sure are you those were grouse tracks?

Love the camo

 

[scatman]

Great report Hugh. I love how you always pick spots that are true rugged wilderness. I always get a great sense of adventure reading your reports.

More like a muddy comedy than an adventure! Glad you enjoyed it @Vegan.Hiker.

 

[scatman]

How sure are you those were grouse tracks?

I had a great response to this but I couldn't copy mathematical formulas from Word to here so I'll try and describe it instead.

(Choose the correct answer) I knew they were grouse tracks because:

a. While not actually seeing the feathered trickster, we had had a grouse cross our path in the snow a day earlier up the West Pilgrim Trail and the tracks were the same as the ones we saw on upper Pilgrim Creek.

b. If you take the integral from 0 to 16 (number of tracks in the image) of the function f(x)=X^3 + 2X^2 - 3X +7 where f(x) represents the path of the grizzly tracks up Pilgrim Creek, divide this result by the identity matrix, you will find that the result equals grouse tracks.

c. If @Artemus had been hiking with us and saw these tracks, what would he identify them as? Answer: grouse tracks

d. In a tree adjacent to the tracks but not in the image, there are the words "grouse tracks" with an arrow pointing downward carved into the bark.

For those of you who guessed b, c (I might have gone with this one myself) or d, you are incorrect! No Soup for You! For those of you who chose a, you are correct and should be transported to Pilgrim Creek in a matter of seconds.

My apologies to mathematicians across the globe and universe for my feeble attempt to remember my calculus class 34 years ago for choice b. It looked so much better in a formula!

@Artemus - I love you man! Thanks for keeping me on my toes.

 

[Artemus]

I had a great response to this but I couldn't copy mathematical formulas from Word to here so I'll try and describe it instead.

(Choose the correct answer) I knew they were grouse tracks because:

a. While not actually seeing the feathered trickster, we had had a grouse cross our path in the snow a day earlier up the West Pilgrim Trail and the tracks were the same as the ones we saw on upper Pilgrim Creek.

b. If you take the integral from 0 to 16 (number of tracks in the image) of the function f(x)=X^3 + 2X^2 - 3X +7 where f(x) represents the path of the grizzly tracks up Pilgrim Creek, divide this result by the identity matrix, you will find that the result equals grouse tracks.

c. If @Artemus had been hiking with us and saw these tracks, what would he identify them as? Answer: grouse tracks

d. In a tree adjacent to the tracks but not in the image, there are the words "grouse tracks" with an arrow pointing downward carved into the bark.

For those of you who guessed b, c (I might have gone with this one myself) or d, you are incorrect! No Soup for You! For those of you who chose a, you are correct and should be transported to Pilgrim Creek in a matter of seconds.

My apologies to mathematicians across the globe and universe for my feeble attempt to remember my calculus class 34 years ago for choice b. It looked so much better in a formula!

@Artemus - I love you man! Thanks for keeping me on my toes.

Scat! You crack me up!
I was just wondering because tracking is hard and I am always learning. They kind of looked like sandhill crane tracks (from memory) and I wondered if you had any other clues - like watching the dang bird walk the tracks I pick a. - and I am a better man for it.