- Joined
- Dec 11, 2015
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Day 1.
I awoke in the cabin at the Headwaters Lodge, headed over for breakfast, and walked into a big group of people in the lobby. Overhearing the conversations, the road into the Park was closed at the S Entrance due to the snow from the previous day and last night. Some people that I had met the previous night at the laundromat saw me and came over to say hi. They then started asking me questions about how long the road might be closed, were there other options, etc. I explained what I had read on the YNP website, and learning that the Grassy Lake Road was open, I recommended they drive that, and then head north to West Yellowstone, and into the Park. The entrance there was open. They took off to drive the road.
Anyway, other people heard me talking and then I was suddenly the person to ask. I tried to remove myself from that as soon as possible because I'm not that guy. More importantly, I needed to finish packing and head out to the highway before the entrance was opened and all these potential rides headed out. Too late, while I was in my cabin, the entrance opened and the vehicles mostly left. I left my duffel bag with the campground office (they agreed that I could) and I walked to the highway and started walking north to the pullout north of the Grassy Lake Road as a few cars and RVs passed me. After 10-15 minutes at the pullout, a car stopped and a young woman jumped out and after asking where I was going, asked me not to kill her, and opened the rear hatch of her car. I promised I would not kill her, put my pack in, and loaded myself into the front passenger seat.
There was a yellow lab on its bed in the back seat. This dog was the reason that the driver was in NW Wyoming. Keeping this short, the dog had been diagnosed with a terminal disease, spurring its owner to go on an extended road trip with him before he died. She quit her job, was in the process of taking care of everything before she took off, and found out that the dog's health issue was not terminal. Since she was so far in into the process, she took the road trip anyway. At this point she was in the 3rd month of the trip, if I remember right. Anyway, we entered the Park, and she dropped me off where I asked.
I was excited for this trip, 3 nights in non-established camps and one night at Ice Lake. The hiking was mostly off trail and the elk rut was on. I was starting near Yellowstone Lake and finishing near Mammoth.
I grabbed my pack and carried it into the trees. I do not like to be seen leaving the road and went out of sight as quickly as possible, before another car passed. I shouldered the pack and started off.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_heading_in.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_heading_in.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107608-4de2d4a8b428b632f8cba38466eb971e.jpg)
Within a few seconds I hit these elk tracks. I felt this was a good omen.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_elk_tracks.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_elk_tracks.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107609-5ebd4928bec8498473d46b2ddeb78179.jpg)
I headed up this unnamed creek, which I realized about 20 minutes later, was not the creek I wanted to be following. I checked the map and realized that I was headed west, not north. But for now, I followed the creek.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_unnamed_creek.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_unnamed_creek.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107610-cbfb77f9ef8363371e39c63cbedc1255.jpg)
Once I realized my mistake, I turned north and headed into the forest.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_off-trail.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_off-trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107611-91b61b515f0680364d70f005525ce8b2.jpg)
There are several meadows in the area so I traveled from meadow to meadow, feeling that I was headed to the right area. My compass usually showed I was.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_meadow.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_meadow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107612-90d1bcb0d5094cf24439762bc9f11873.jpg)
I came upon this elk wallow along the way.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_elk_wallow.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_elk_wallow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107613-584f2b4da86bb094896e8283ba1e24e5.jpg)
The storm was still passing through, with frequent changes between squalls and patches of blue sky.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_meadow&snowfall.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_meadow&snowfall.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107614-4bffcd4ec5ae77d9a48bffeee716169f.jpg)
At one point the the skies let loose and it poured snow for 10-15 minutes.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_snowfall_downpour-1.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_snowfall_downpour-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107615-0aefed9a9f1febf10f52f7e0635e8d6d.jpg)
I noticed a large bird flying across the meadow and it landed along the edge. I watched it for a few minutes before it flew to the end of the meadow and perched again.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_snowfall_downpour&GGO-2.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_snowfall_downpour&GGO-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107617-e44f9803d2cc399df557ecdd3ad40ae5.jpg)
The next squall was comprised mostly of graupel.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_graupel.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_graupel.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107618-6c4737ab6c604f3f21f980335ee71241.jpg)
I finally reached the meadow I was seeking. I passed through here a couple years ago and was treated to an afternoon of elk bugling and wallowing. As I walked out to the road, more elk were coming into the meadow and the bugling was nearly non-stop. But this year it was empty.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_meadows-1.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_meadows-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107619-c9ccdf521cacdab8f8e8d40e262b2296.jpg)
There's an abandoned trail in the valley with some trail markers remaining on the trees. The lower end of the trail becomes pretty spotty the closer you approach the road.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_trail_marker-1.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_trail_marker-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107620-032e71d2cb86b0991b5720199e47fe2c.jpg)
I crossed the creek, this is looking down valley toward the road.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_down_valley-2.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_down_valley-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107621-9b3fe6641d51663b18000986506fd035.jpg)
I think this is the official trail but it may have been a game trail. There were no markers or cut logs along this stretch.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_trail-1.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_trail-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107622-a81c18cafcca5d0f88675edb84b8107d.jpg)
The upper end of the valley closed in with trees, giving it a real comfortable vibe.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_upper_area.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_upper_area.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107623-5dccec0c856412dfd0a33f4a34463f7c.jpg)
Another elk wallow. Where were they?
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_elk_wallow.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_elk_wallow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107624-28a284c42c70fbe2fd1df7b963475ce1.jpg)
I left the valley bottom and headed up into the burn. This burned in 2009.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_burn_scene.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_burn_scene.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107625-160966db64eca237e862cea704207cf7.jpg)
Soon after I was following an elk's trail through the downed snags.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_burn_elk_tracks.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_burn_elk_tracks.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107626-8966cee1ac08ef2678cc66313959eba4.jpg)
Earlier I had spotted the elk a couple hundred yards ahead of me, a sizable bull. I took this picture assuming the bull was somewhere in it, looking back at me. If he's there, I still haven't found him.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_burn_elk_tracks-2.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_burn_elk_tracks-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107627-78c063e1e7930f4e5f7a7718d8927af6.jpg)
Once I left the burned area, I entered a beautiful forest.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107628-3038603d202dc8c379779b2ae4fa49e9.jpg)
Here's the old trail.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route_sawn_log-1.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route_sawn_log-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107629-350c45aec2570afe8d354b0cd922f582.jpg)
I saw a couple dozen trail markers along the way.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route_trail_marker.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route_trail_marker.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107630-96ef0e4709eef254fae7e561655903ce.jpg)
Another obvious section of trail.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route_trail_marker-3.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route_trail_marker-3.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107631-d6fd5bcdab5443c07a7c1c7bbb1f4659.jpg)
I lost the trail several times as I went along, usually finding cut logs to relocate it. As I approached Beach Lake, I found this recent set of black bear tracks. It looks like several hundred snow fleas are dotting the snow.
![YNP_Day-1_Beach_L_bear_track.jpg YNP_Day-1_Beach_L_bear_track.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107632-8d7282b6ab488ee1fad366e99cd39783.jpg)
Beach Lake. I kept an eye on the point jutting out from the left as I figured the bear was likely to walk out on it at some point. I never saw it.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_Beach_L.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_Beach_L.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107633-a6fa30f124f5cb187655d722ab95fde8.jpg)
From the upper shore of Beach Lake. Looks dismal but it was actually pretty nice out.
![YNP_Day-1_Beach_L-1-2.jpg YNP_Day-1_Beach_L-1-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107634-7b92b30d29b631113db4d2e745d98101.jpg)
North of Beach Lake, I found a small meadow ringed by lodgepole pines. With the low clouds, the moonrise brightened the area pretty well.
![YNP_Day-1_Beach_L_camp_meadow_N_moonrise_good.jpg YNP_Day-1_Beach_L_camp_meadow_N_moonrise_good.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107635-4152d55db5073d412643a1faa5ff1c22.jpg)
Day 2.
Here's camp in the morning. The storm was dissipating with the cloud cover persisting but slowly decreasing as the morning went on.
![YNP_Day-2_Beach_L_camp_meadow_N_sunrise_camp-2.jpg YNP_Day-2_Beach_L_camp_meadow_N_sunrise_camp-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107636-a0647a5c809456c22195185fcc3c3076.jpg)
I continued north through the lodgepole forest, which eventually gave way to a small burned area, then through a short stretch of mostly lodgepole, before entering the meadows along Alum Creek.
![YNP_Day-2_burn_route.jpg YNP_Day-2_burn_route.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107637-ab5db04ab613f2130820c1d2e0450209.jpg)
![YNP_Day-2_forest_route-2.jpg YNP_Day-2_forest_route-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107638-0d240b4190bae7a9ebd9ac7f919e383d.jpg)
As I approached the meadow, there were a few burned lodgepoles giving cover to a sharp-shinned hawk.
![YNP_Day-2_approaching_Alum_Cr_SS_Hawk.jpg YNP_Day-2_approaching_Alum_Cr_SS_Hawk.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107639-b3949ebda6dad7b1a263b17412000222.jpg)
I entered the meadows following this trail. Probably bison based on what I will be following further down the valley.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_meadow.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_meadow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107640-31fc16bb799b91e25c7f110bbd61bce3.jpg)
Pine marten tracks.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_pine_marten_tracks.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_pine_marten_tracks.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107641-df406ff94e5c0cbb19a45bcca20a4ac6.jpg)
Further down the Alum Creek valley.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_meadow-2.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_meadow-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107642-f385eccdee53ba4fdd42b1f6d559f7c1.jpg)
At this point, I'm following a set of bison tracks. I ended up following the tracks of one or 2 bison for a couple hours.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_tracks-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_tracks-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107643-2d3da2c48efca41dee6014af61bf0ee2.jpg)
Seems like you can't travel around this park too long without finding a bone, in this case, a bison bone.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_humerus.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_humerus.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107645-e1a1bb1ed90e163706b51c7347c8aec8.jpg)
Alum Creek.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107646-24646e637e4f813a06078d1753a8894f.jpg)
I followed the bison trail across Alum Creek and stopped for a snack and water to enjoy a few minutes of sunlight.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_up_valley-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_up_valley-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107648-c2e02ddd1de396c150ade7ff7b702385.jpg)
A lodgepole forest heavily scarred by bison.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison-scarred_trees.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison-scarred_trees.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107649-06aa5d1be6050a5656f1e5eddbff9d13.jpg)
A bison wallow adjacent to well-worn trail. I heard a series of wolf howls off to the east from here, in the headwaters of Trout Creek. Sounded like 4-5 wolves.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_trail&wallow.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_trail&wallow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107650-c6fa92d0203972ced4d53ec9b731346b.jpg)
Continuing on down the trail.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_trail-3.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_trail-3.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107651-199e401b642c03227e38c9012c3fa06c.jpg)
I finally reach Hayden Valley. It's still a bit chilly with a slight breeze, but what a great day.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107652-1233eb3bc8f0f60f07046216217270c5.jpg)
A bison along Alum Creek. This may be one of the bison I have been following.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley_lone_bison.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley_lone_bison.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107653-fc05faa897f6c208602b6818207190c2.jpg)
Staying on a bison trail through the sagebrush.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley_bison_trail.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley_bison_trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107654-a6c87059f0e44f4bd57a341c8096c3bd.jpg)
Walking into Glen Africa.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley_Glen_Africa_thermals.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley_Glen_Africa_thermals.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107655-814f1b5fee4c552e5ae849bf614bbb91.jpg)
As Alum Creek passes through this thermal area, it warms substantially.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107656-0d97d60e461d54b23f204ddbfb99e73a.jpg)
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek&Glen_Africa.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek&Glen_Africa.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107657-e165fe350cb76a25acb9d136b01adc81.jpg)
Looking back after crossing Alum Creek. I had tossed my pack onto the grassy island, almost losing my camera in the process.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_crossing.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_crossing.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107658-f0906eef8f37027293b9a111953fb5c7.jpg)
A small group of bison. The nearest ones had been a couple hundred yards away but still spooked and ran toward the rest of the group.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_bison-3.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_bison-3.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107659-d5e469ee5b4b91d607cc8c17bc236232.jpg)
Looking back at Glen Africa basin.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_Glen_Africa_basin-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_Glen_Africa_basin-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107660-919a7a2557ad1bc9ad0e47b2808c1b0b.jpg)
I headed up the ridge to the north and saw this group of bison, just ustream of the other group.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_bison-1-2.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_bison-1-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107661-8d1013ee3e229dd5ea047bddfd26ce8b.jpg)
I pick up a bison trail and continue north.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_bison_trail.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_bison_trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107662-0b3047cc9d7c5f0b94db035a0c951edd.jpg)
As I approach the Mary Mountain Trail, I pass this grizzly track.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_griz_track_snow.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_griz_track_snow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107663-0321d73850cb3071778c09fbc2e535d3.jpg)
Continuing north.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_Mary_Mtn_trail.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_Mary_Mtn_trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107664-f469a7a3823b98056a6c3fbb1e7579eb.jpg)
Approaching another bison wallow.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_bison_trail&wallow.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_bison_trail&wallow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107665-5932adaeaa23151c8c1e43cb15d521f8.jpg)
Looking east across Hayden Valley to the Absarokas.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_view_E.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_view_E.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107666-6ca5a9347e153821b38d5032c8d34342.jpg)
A couple of mountain bluebirds. There were a few feeding on insects in the sagebrush in the warm sun.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_mtn_bluebirds.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_mtn_bluebirds.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107668-93ebb4cf6659047970999005bfb03dd9.jpg)
A group of bison just northwest of Violet Creek thermal area.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_bison-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_bison-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107669-c189532437a8cc64e757a0f705ce3b30.jpg)
Violet Creek thermal area.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107670-c2bb6747e56f86aef3b6c87571cad2b6.jpg)
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermal_pools.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermal_pools.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107671-3303a5c860fec79a03c424d12644d51c.jpg)
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermal_area-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermal_area-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107673-ce3b72d20df02e8a7bbdc444ba999d02.jpg)
The bison trail through and out of the thermal area.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_bison_trail.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_bison_trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107674-f768b6153b681563dff86fb921ae7a80.jpg)
In the meadow just north of the thermal area.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_bison-3.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_bison-3.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107675-474b4b2140a9cb01230dbfd11e6f9058.jpg)
The view to the southeast.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_meadow-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_meadow-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107676-2c5776c81c7dbb4b9354f27a18ea290b.jpg)
Heading north in earnest toward Otter Creek.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_route_N.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_route_N.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107677-2a7300d0e5bd2969030a3337c01881df.jpg)
Coyote, grizzly and bison track.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_N_griz_bison&coyote_track.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_N_griz_bison&coyote_track.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107678-601a1c4f02fcf5be1f6de47c5991de1a.jpg)
Real walkable terrain and open forest.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_route_N.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_route_N.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107679-0c36d0bd5a9aca0c09baad83f4cfb604.jpg)
One of the many little meadows on the way to Otter Creek.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_meadow.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_meadow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107680-46337a075f7a966182af295ac049e3f2.jpg)
Another thermal area. The terrain is littered with small thermal spots.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_thermal.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_thermal.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107681-74169b6112c8b67e023f15da8dbe4d57.jpg)
A small thicket of young lodgepoles.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_route_N-1-2.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_route_N-1-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107683-72995a2257989a36d0309ce77ac9355f.jpg)
More easy-to-walk, inviting terrain and forests.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_route_N-3.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_route_N-3.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107684-b9d869f3f2b27e8e7e739018eaf75756.jpg)
Another thermal area.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_thermals.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_thermals.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107685-062d4649c41c3fd23ee272d513f2c431.jpg)
One of the larger thermal areas along the way.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_thermals-1-2.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_thermals-1-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107686-01b0d881c75038677c85f6fb4f89e46a.jpg)
A meadow in the headwaters of Otter Creek I tried to obtain a permit to remotely camp here a few years ago. I was denied.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_puddle-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_puddle-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107687-3ab0a366c7a278eabc73044f055388ab.jpg)
Another thicket, so far these come and go pretty quickly.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_thicket.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_thicket.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107688-c1996bef176dc22ae040e9442be0a153.jpg)
I reach the Cygnet Lakes trail and follow it for a few minutes before heading northwest on my way to Ice Lake.
![YNP_Day-2_Cygnet_L_trail.jpg YNP_Day-2_Cygnet_L_trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107689-d6cfe6aff71c4fd92b4a088cf14b6a03.jpg)
Pretty easy traveling off trail.
![YNP_Day-2_route_N.jpg YNP_Day-2_route_N.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107690-0a12b1d49a1c48ec3884667be80bc88c.jpg)
I finally reach the Norris-Canyon Road. I have an hour or 2 of daylight left so feel good about reaching Ice Lake. Soon after this I run into large swaths of regenerating lodgepoles pines, slowing my pace substantially. Really substantially. I eventually spilled out of the forest onto the trail and followed it to the campsite, very relieved. I end up reaching the Ice Lake Campsite at about 11 pm, in the dark and exhausted.
![YNP_Day-2_Norris-Canyon_Rd.jpg YNP_Day-2_Norris-Canyon_Rd.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107691-6b843992b719ac6c485fa2f467a36f2e.jpg)
Day 3.
The next morning, I woke up, had breakfast, and hike a few minutes back to the Gibbon River crossing. I saw it last night with a headlamp and thought it would look nice in the morning light.
![YNP_Day-3_Gibbon_R_morning.jpg YNP_Day-3_Gibbon_R_morning.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107692-64f0efe2a3b59a56bd7e18b0194d73a7.jpg)
I return to camp and catch some photos of Ice Lake in a beautiful morning.
![YNP_Day-3_Ice_L-1.jpg YNP_Day-3_Ice_L-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107693-2173a520aaf3c950feffd725a7c97a09.jpg)
The campsite is pretty expansive compared to most. I did manage to set up my tent in a spot that received early sun, which was nice.
![YNP_Day-3_Ice_L_CS_4D2-2.jpg YNP_Day-3_Ice_L_CS_4D2-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107694-65180641f6bed3e02a5fb3da09148a64.jpg)
The trail heading west from the Ice Lake CS. I follow it to, and past the Norris Meadows CS. I saw 2 people along the north shore of Ice Lake, the first people I had seen since leaving the road 2 days ago, .
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Trail.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107695-ca2de8c71038415b3e88fc17b283ce69.jpg)
Sometimes there's no escaping deadfall.
![YNP_Day-3_Ice_L_Trail_deadfall.jpg YNP_Day-3_Ice_L_Trail_deadfall.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107696-b30d8585bd177e4950f0fd63c6d6e938.jpg)
I reach the meadows. At this point I left the trail for good. Mount Holmes is off to the left. I believe that is Electric Peak in the back right-center.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_meadows&Mt_Holmes-2.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_meadows&Mt_Holmes-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107697-505dc6a7da8302a8e5320ca543ad5b3e.jpg)
Heading up the Solfatara Creek valley. More awesome travel conditions.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_route.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_route.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107698-abd3b81743370862e03061d5b72e738e.jpg)
I reach this unnamed creek coming in from the east. At this point I was feeling pretty lazy so I took my time deciding where to cross. I spent probably an hour here.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_unnamed_trib.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_unnamed_trib.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107699-03156742748f6c7acee65322f13077aa.jpg)
As the day wore on, I noticed more and more pieces of obsidian.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_obsidian.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_obsidian.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107700-69979a668d5a2ca869bce35bb63501ca.jpg)
I spent most of the day traveling through expansive meadows. No sign of humans at all, well except for these poles. But by early afternoon I was past the last of them.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_meadow.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_meadow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107701-d50e543b30ec52dadfa4e4737b4c1e1d.jpg)
A lone bison. I love how these quiet valleys seem to provide a good spot for these old boys.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_bison-1.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_bison-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107702-20134f54d2f0fa77ade8fdf955926c37.jpg)
A log ripped open by a bear.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_bear_log.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_bear_log.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107704-0ff098bb77cefd0a39d33dc6f44803eb.jpg)
A small unnamed pond.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_meadow&pond-2.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_meadow&pond-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107705-b7aa89a798c03dbcd2e5c22b903458bd.jpg)
One of the northernmost meadows along Solfatara Creek. The meadow closes down pretty tightly in the back.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_into_big_meadow.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_into_big_meadow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107706-e28cda4489107f3e6390607eabcaa45d.jpg)
Another of the interesting finds along the way.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_elk_skull.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_elk_skull.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107707-c9471b95beade3174bf8f1affd0c9761.jpg)
Hiking closer to the extreme north end of the valley.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_way_up_valley.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_way_up_valley.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107708-3b749cdbf35f70d24455a112058f8d32.jpg)
It opens again for a short while then closes as I approach the headwaters .
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_looking_up_valley.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_looking_up_valley.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107709-0c5c72f3bd2aef5318aa77db3a513a6a.jpg)
The forest closes in for good.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_into_the_trees.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_into_the_trees.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107710-82a2cdcc7a08bf0c5e90e9dede0a3cf5.jpg)
I continue up valley. I realize just past here that I wandered up a side valley and need to turn left up the slope to reach my next camp. Plenty of time left for that.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_wrong_valley.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_wrong_valley.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107711-b25afc1d322cd4a1bb0a17b98d4a7b2e.jpg)
And then it's deja-vu all over again. I hit an extended patch of thick lodgepole regeneration and my pace slows to a crawl. I start to realize I may end up in the same situation as last night but all I can do is keep going and hope it ends soon.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_upper_thicket.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_upper_thicket.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107712-15a052be024a2c934f3d1641610b59e2.jpg)
Day 4.
Well it takes a while but I leave the thicket behind and travel the last 1/2 mile to camp in a few minutes. I set up camp, find a great tree to hang the food, have some dinner, and hit the sack. I am asleep quickly. The next morning, I break camp, grab a couple granola bars and head out. Yesterday was a great one and I'm excited for this one.
Horseshoe Hill Thermal Area. I reach this in about 5 minutes after leaving camp.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107714-a7e38671dfadb40b8f284f17edb91f65.jpg)
A brief stretch through the trees. A perfect warm up.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_forest_route.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_forest_route.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107715-c7ae99aaae1aac7f137ff1f621012803.jpg)
Then up through another section of the thermal area.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107716-1bf58367d4c164bbe00173b64356840e.jpg)
A chunk of sulphur.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_sulphur-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_sulphur-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107717-266864e1adeb0e250f0a0a6dac8cc64e.jpg)
Another big chunk of obsidian. At this point I realize that I'm not too terribly far east of Obsidian Cliffs.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_obsidian.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_obsidian.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107718-6af5ac18d0efa752ba8213935fd352c0.jpg)
Mount Holmes with Trilobite Point in front.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_Mt_Holmes.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_Mt_Holmes.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107719-71728f946bc938b84c6f51662b657fd7.jpg)
A lot of flat ground as I headed north.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_N_route-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_N_route-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107720-cc29a5c3e7d10803c009365721dd4019.jpg)
One of several meadows in the area.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_E_meadow.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_E_meadow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107721-33aaf8657ee575a915b6b5f91e995c29.jpg)
A shallow pond along the way.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_pond.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_pond.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107722-c6d545b85c12f8996da99e9c15f1d54b.jpg)
This pond at really low water. There were a handful of ducks as I approached but they moved off to a puddle a little south of here.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr__dried_pond-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr__dried_pond-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107723-fd98988066428f39d6ed41a696319349.jpg)
More lodgepole thickets.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107724-7423db9c27f4ac8c03cb71b1dda37478.jpg)
Eventually I came across a game trail.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket_path.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket_path.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107725-341ac3e2e59a57987977702c6344d3cb.jpg)
The thicket ended and an easier hike began.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket_ends.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket_ends.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107726-91e86daeb41361aab0bcd0194d7fe8c8.jpg)
I spent a couple hours hiking through a beautiful and open lodgepole forest, It doesn't come any easier than this.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_open_forest (3).jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_open_forest (3).jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107727-76bbc66b68dc3033f248bb2bf66409c0.jpg)
After crossing the above gully, I'm back on a long relatively flat ridge.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_open_forest.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_open_forest.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107729-736d6a55df1a3b0a7da7556c73ab2e00.jpg)
It continued...
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_open_forest-5.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_open_forest-5.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107731-06e9384d874a7887f9f91eb3ebf05475.jpg)
...until it doesn't. I reach a thicket from hell. The only respite is finding the larger down logs that allow me to travel in a straight line for a few dozen feet. I keep waiting for it to end but it goes on and on.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107732-a31de57144825bc658d786505be079ff.jpg)
and on.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_closing_in_LP_regen.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_closing_in_LP_regen.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107733-67fb21021bf797e9cbee9dddfdec34b6.jpg)
I found a downed log that was a bit elevated. I climb on it, take out my camera, reach up and take a picture. I look at the picture and realize it is not ending anytime soon. Time to take a different route. I turn right and head to the Lava Creek valley.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_overview_LP_regen-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_overview_LP_regen-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107734-a56e2ab7607c6eec34cabeaa2e0790bd.jpg)
Within 10 minutes I am out of the thicket. According to the Garmin InReach, I traveled 1/10 mile in just under an hour. Things look much better now. Looking over Lava Creek.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sideslope_Ceanothus&LP-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sideslope_Ceanothus&LP-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107735-82255dc9cecedb2075f92111959805f6.jpg)
Lava Creek and a lone bison.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr&bison-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr&bison-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107736-8bb4859eee19e8235d38ad5a7c78c65b.jpg)
Looking up valley.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sideslope_up_valley-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sideslope_up_valley-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107737-5187184293e6783624d82e541d432d90.jpg)
Some fall color on the west side of Lava Creek.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sideslope_colors-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sideslope_colors-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107738-3d18f0c27fc926922605be1fe1a98af1.jpg)
Alongside Lava Creek.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_up_valley-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_up_valley-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107739-3a13dac18acb445c9e966d0af05f03a7.jpg)
More colors.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107741-00b35722888a6a6f19a605e10cd371df.jpg)
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-5.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-5.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107742-c647772824104a6f5708215b7437a024.jpg)
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-1-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-1-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107743-15ef185caf8efb431b8c9b3ed7f9fb1e.jpg)
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-2-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-2-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107744-67e962b1f88a1885c61f2112851128e1.jpg)
I loved all the red.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-5-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-5-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107745-eaeda21f8abb9cc8b2aa6229d33e6e1f.jpg)
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors-9.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors-9.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107748-247513f1b596ceeb75b2dca205b78f22.jpg)
Now on the eastern slope of Lava Creek.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sage&colors-5.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sage&colors-5.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107749-f330c2ae3020ce1a21ba171214deb821.jpg)
I continued down valley and found these 2 specimens.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_elk_antlers.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_elk_antlers.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107750-e005b6d9623f8087f0a381e37e9e3ee7.jpg)
Another set in the rocks.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_bear_elk_antlers&rock-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_bear_elk_antlers&rock-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107753-626225203d238428f5951eb2ceaebfb1.jpg)
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-3-3.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-3-3.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107755-c12c1bc52f43c32126ee9c032b701ef7.jpg)
The colors and the light were awesome to travel through. A beautiful afternoon and evening.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-6-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-6-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107756-97b2d32d87f83220a6988e62e8a25077.jpg)
Another elk wallow.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_elk_wallow.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_elk_wallow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107757-8b1ab3f543efbc1111ff819753fd6c78.jpg)
There were several springs draining off the hillside. I did not want to sleep along the creek in the tight valley so I headed upslope near one of the springs and found a great spot to camp. After dinner, on the ridge across the creek, a lone bull started bugling. I glassed the slope for several minutes but could not locate him. He finally walked out of the forest briefly and wound his way through the trees as he headed down valley. I glimpsed him briefly one more time, then he was gone. The bugling continued another 10 minutes. As darkness approached, a cow elk started talking with soft mews and squeals. I watched her and her calf a bit and then crawled into bed.
Day 5.
I awoke to another beautiful morning.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_scene-2.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_scene-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107759-0349e4f68462c35321f4517827f055bd.jpg)
While heating water for oatmeal, I heard a bugle. I started looking around and saw this guy just over the ridge. The bugling continued for nearly an hour as he moved back and forth along the ridge.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_elk_ridge.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_elk_ridge.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107761-44c0f104a425df2d90eb196ee857d3e5.jpg)
He appeared to be very curious about my presence but this was as close as he came.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_elk_ridge_close-6.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_elk_ridge_close-6.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107763-46fe900c382a0cd7e61243904fc2c03a.jpg)
The moon is almost gone for the day.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_setting_moon.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_setting_moon.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107764-c98c21e215cd2221f52ca3b196754d77.jpg)
Once the bugling stopped, I packed and continued on game trails through the sagebrush. Pretty soon I started finding more antlers.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_elk_antlers_sagebrush-1.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_elk_antlers_sagebrush-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107765-5938b7cbdec89166555ac9080e8ed148.jpg)
I finally neared the Douglas fir forests. This is some of the best black bear habitat in the park. I felt optimistic at my chances of seeing one.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_Doug_Firs.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_Doug_Firs.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107766-1d5774f6809a596ad132858f9678aafa.jpg)
More shed antlers.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_elk_antlers_both_left-1.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_elk_antlers_both_left-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107767-e1785dc6b70a1b5406742decc6732125.jpg)
A few more elk wallows in the wet seeps.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_elk_wallows.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_elk_wallows.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107768-57441bd7875751338d9b01abb2c7bb81.jpg)
Rather than head straight down to the road, I contoured along, hoping to spot a bear. I passed a lot of sign along the way.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_Doug_Fir_forest-1.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_Doug_Fir_forest-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107769-e7511f28100265453e28b19016904fa7.jpg)
Mount Everts across the valley.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_Doug_Fir_forest&Everts.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_Doug_Fir_forest&Everts.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107770-4da9e5e8b51abff006f81ea4d2da7758.jpg)
I eventually reached the road. I saw no bears in the trees, unfortunately. While walking along the road, I did spot this bald eagle.
![YNP_Day-5_Bald_Eagle_over_road.jpg YNP_Day-5_Bald_Eagle_over_road.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107771-09f0a55ef6e037ec28f8d1616e7f1de6.jpg)
I briefly tried hitchhiking to the Mammoth area but after a few minutes, I decided to walk there. My niece and her husband were delayed on their way up so I was in no hurry to reach the development. The view opened up providing this view of Mt Sepulcher and Mammoth Terraces. The top and a ridge of Electric Peak shows itself just left of Mt Sepulcher. Clagett Butte is at the far left.
![YNP_Day-5_Mammoth_Terraces&Sepulcher_Mtn.jpg YNP_Day-5_Mammoth_Terraces&Sepulcher_Mtn.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107772-6aa4282aaaf0e1e832d2ffa86af44b8c.jpg)
I reached Mammoth and headed in for a cold drink and a snack. I was hoping for a shower but those are not provided here. I found a spot in the shade and sat down to enjoy my Dr. Pepper and ice cream sandwich. Eventually my niece and her husband and 8 month old girl showed up. I throw my gear in and we're gone. The drive to the south entrance was uneventful. There may have been a grizzly visible in the Swan Lake Flat but we just wanted out of the crowds and parked cars lining the road. We stopped at Old Faithful Lodge and stopped in for a takeout dinner, which we ate in the nearly empty parking lot. I hustled into the Old Faithful Inn, bought a shower and hurried through that.
We drove out of the Park, turned onto the Grassy Lake Road and went looking for a campsite, eventually ending up at Grassy Lake Reservoir. We were the only ones there. Exhausted we pitched our tents in the dark and crashed.
We woke to a chilly but beautiful morning by the reservoir.
![YNP_Day-5_Grassy_L_Reservoir-1.jpg YNP_Day-5_Grassy_L_Reservoir-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107773-b66d486fc75592d9bf87f324bacca840.jpg)
It seemed to take forever but the sun finally reached us, warming us quickly. My niece let the bambino out to play in the gravel.
![YNP_Day-6_LBF&Kennedy.jpg YNP_Day-6_LBF&Kennedy.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107774-1f8a928054993cc19636333e37ffa6be.jpg)
We headed to the Headwaters Lodge, grabbed some delicious burritos to go, and continued south to the Jackson Airport, where they threw me out in disgust and told me to never return. I caught my flight and was headed back to AK.
I awoke in the cabin at the Headwaters Lodge, headed over for breakfast, and walked into a big group of people in the lobby. Overhearing the conversations, the road into the Park was closed at the S Entrance due to the snow from the previous day and last night. Some people that I had met the previous night at the laundromat saw me and came over to say hi. They then started asking me questions about how long the road might be closed, were there other options, etc. I explained what I had read on the YNP website, and learning that the Grassy Lake Road was open, I recommended they drive that, and then head north to West Yellowstone, and into the Park. The entrance there was open. They took off to drive the road.
Anyway, other people heard me talking and then I was suddenly the person to ask. I tried to remove myself from that as soon as possible because I'm not that guy. More importantly, I needed to finish packing and head out to the highway before the entrance was opened and all these potential rides headed out. Too late, while I was in my cabin, the entrance opened and the vehicles mostly left. I left my duffel bag with the campground office (they agreed that I could) and I walked to the highway and started walking north to the pullout north of the Grassy Lake Road as a few cars and RVs passed me. After 10-15 minutes at the pullout, a car stopped and a young woman jumped out and after asking where I was going, asked me not to kill her, and opened the rear hatch of her car. I promised I would not kill her, put my pack in, and loaded myself into the front passenger seat.
There was a yellow lab on its bed in the back seat. This dog was the reason that the driver was in NW Wyoming. Keeping this short, the dog had been diagnosed with a terminal disease, spurring its owner to go on an extended road trip with him before he died. She quit her job, was in the process of taking care of everything before she took off, and found out that the dog's health issue was not terminal. Since she was so far in into the process, she took the road trip anyway. At this point she was in the 3rd month of the trip, if I remember right. Anyway, we entered the Park, and she dropped me off where I asked.
I was excited for this trip, 3 nights in non-established camps and one night at Ice Lake. The hiking was mostly off trail and the elk rut was on. I was starting near Yellowstone Lake and finishing near Mammoth.
I grabbed my pack and carried it into the trees. I do not like to be seen leaving the road and went out of sight as quickly as possible, before another car passed. I shouldered the pack and started off.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_heading_in.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_heading_in.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107608-4de2d4a8b428b632f8cba38466eb971e.jpg)
Within a few seconds I hit these elk tracks. I felt this was a good omen.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_elk_tracks.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_elk_tracks.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107609-5ebd4928bec8498473d46b2ddeb78179.jpg)
I headed up this unnamed creek, which I realized about 20 minutes later, was not the creek I wanted to be following. I checked the map and realized that I was headed west, not north. But for now, I followed the creek.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_unnamed_creek.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_unnamed_creek.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107610-cbfb77f9ef8363371e39c63cbedc1255.jpg)
Once I realized my mistake, I turned north and headed into the forest.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_off-trail.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_off-trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107611-91b61b515f0680364d70f005525ce8b2.jpg)
There are several meadows in the area so I traveled from meadow to meadow, feeling that I was headed to the right area. My compass usually showed I was.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_meadow.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_meadow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107612-90d1bcb0d5094cf24439762bc9f11873.jpg)
I came upon this elk wallow along the way.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_elk_wallow.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_elk_wallow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107613-584f2b4da86bb094896e8283ba1e24e5.jpg)
The storm was still passing through, with frequent changes between squalls and patches of blue sky.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_meadow&snowfall.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_meadow&snowfall.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107614-4bffcd4ec5ae77d9a48bffeee716169f.jpg)
At one point the the skies let loose and it poured snow for 10-15 minutes.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_snowfall_downpour-1.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_snowfall_downpour-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107615-0aefed9a9f1febf10f52f7e0635e8d6d.jpg)
I noticed a large bird flying across the meadow and it landed along the edge. I watched it for a few minutes before it flew to the end of the meadow and perched again.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_snowfall_downpour&GGO-2.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_snowfall_downpour&GGO-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107617-e44f9803d2cc399df557ecdd3ad40ae5.jpg)
The next squall was comprised mostly of graupel.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_graupel.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_area_graupel.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107618-6c4737ab6c604f3f21f980335ee71241.jpg)
I finally reached the meadow I was seeking. I passed through here a couple years ago and was treated to an afternoon of elk bugling and wallowing. As I walked out to the road, more elk were coming into the meadow and the bugling was nearly non-stop. But this year it was empty.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_meadows-1.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_meadows-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107619-c9ccdf521cacdab8f8e8d40e262b2296.jpg)
There's an abandoned trail in the valley with some trail markers remaining on the trees. The lower end of the trail becomes pretty spotty the closer you approach the road.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_trail_marker-1.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_trail_marker-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107620-032e71d2cb86b0991b5720199e47fe2c.jpg)
I crossed the creek, this is looking down valley toward the road.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_down_valley-2.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_down_valley-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107621-9b3fe6641d51663b18000986506fd035.jpg)
I think this is the official trail but it may have been a game trail. There were no markers or cut logs along this stretch.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_trail-1.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_trail-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107622-a81c18cafcca5d0f88675edb84b8107d.jpg)
The upper end of the valley closed in with trees, giving it a real comfortable vibe.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_upper_area.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_upper_area.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107623-5dccec0c856412dfd0a33f4a34463f7c.jpg)
Another elk wallow. Where were they?
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_elk_wallow.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_elk_wallow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107624-28a284c42c70fbe2fd1df7b963475ce1.jpg)
I left the valley bottom and headed up into the burn. This burned in 2009.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_burn_scene.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_burn_scene.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107625-160966db64eca237e862cea704207cf7.jpg)
Soon after I was following an elk's trail through the downed snags.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_burn_elk_tracks.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_burn_elk_tracks.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107626-8966cee1ac08ef2678cc66313959eba4.jpg)
Earlier I had spotted the elk a couple hundred yards ahead of me, a sizable bull. I took this picture assuming the bull was somewhere in it, looking back at me. If he's there, I still haven't found him.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_burn_elk_tracks-2.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_burn_elk_tracks-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107627-78c063e1e7930f4e5f7a7718d8927af6.jpg)
Once I left the burned area, I entered a beautiful forest.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107628-3038603d202dc8c379779b2ae4fa49e9.jpg)
Here's the old trail.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route_sawn_log-1.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route_sawn_log-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107629-350c45aec2570afe8d354b0cd922f582.jpg)
I saw a couple dozen trail markers along the way.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route_trail_marker.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route_trail_marker.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107630-96ef0e4709eef254fae7e561655903ce.jpg)
Another obvious section of trail.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route_trail_marker-3.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_forest_route_trail_marker-3.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107631-d6fd5bcdab5443c07a7c1c7bbb1f4659.jpg)
I lost the trail several times as I went along, usually finding cut logs to relocate it. As I approached Beach Lake, I found this recent set of black bear tracks. It looks like several hundred snow fleas are dotting the snow.
![YNP_Day-1_Beach_L_bear_track.jpg YNP_Day-1_Beach_L_bear_track.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107632-8d7282b6ab488ee1fad366e99cd39783.jpg)
Beach Lake. I kept an eye on the point jutting out from the left as I figured the bear was likely to walk out on it at some point. I never saw it.
![YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_Beach_L.jpg YNP_Day-1_Arnica_Cr_Beach_L.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107633-a6fa30f124f5cb187655d722ab95fde8.jpg)
From the upper shore of Beach Lake. Looks dismal but it was actually pretty nice out.
![YNP_Day-1_Beach_L-1-2.jpg YNP_Day-1_Beach_L-1-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107634-7b92b30d29b631113db4d2e745d98101.jpg)
North of Beach Lake, I found a small meadow ringed by lodgepole pines. With the low clouds, the moonrise brightened the area pretty well.
![YNP_Day-1_Beach_L_camp_meadow_N_moonrise_good.jpg YNP_Day-1_Beach_L_camp_meadow_N_moonrise_good.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107635-4152d55db5073d412643a1faa5ff1c22.jpg)
Day 2.
Here's camp in the morning. The storm was dissipating with the cloud cover persisting but slowly decreasing as the morning went on.
![YNP_Day-2_Beach_L_camp_meadow_N_sunrise_camp-2.jpg YNP_Day-2_Beach_L_camp_meadow_N_sunrise_camp-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107636-a0647a5c809456c22195185fcc3c3076.jpg)
I continued north through the lodgepole forest, which eventually gave way to a small burned area, then through a short stretch of mostly lodgepole, before entering the meadows along Alum Creek.
![YNP_Day-2_burn_route.jpg YNP_Day-2_burn_route.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107637-ab5db04ab613f2130820c1d2e0450209.jpg)
![YNP_Day-2_forest_route-2.jpg YNP_Day-2_forest_route-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107638-0d240b4190bae7a9ebd9ac7f919e383d.jpg)
As I approached the meadow, there were a few burned lodgepoles giving cover to a sharp-shinned hawk.
![YNP_Day-2_approaching_Alum_Cr_SS_Hawk.jpg YNP_Day-2_approaching_Alum_Cr_SS_Hawk.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107639-b3949ebda6dad7b1a263b17412000222.jpg)
I entered the meadows following this trail. Probably bison based on what I will be following further down the valley.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_meadow.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_meadow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107640-31fc16bb799b91e25c7f110bbd61bce3.jpg)
Pine marten tracks.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_pine_marten_tracks.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_pine_marten_tracks.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107641-df406ff94e5c0cbb19a45bcca20a4ac6.jpg)
Further down the Alum Creek valley.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_meadow-2.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_meadow-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107642-f385eccdee53ba4fdd42b1f6d559f7c1.jpg)
At this point, I'm following a set of bison tracks. I ended up following the tracks of one or 2 bison for a couple hours.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_tracks-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_tracks-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107643-2d3da2c48efca41dee6014af61bf0ee2.jpg)
Seems like you can't travel around this park too long without finding a bone, in this case, a bison bone.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_humerus.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_humerus.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107645-e1a1bb1ed90e163706b51c7347c8aec8.jpg)
Alum Creek.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107646-24646e637e4f813a06078d1753a8894f.jpg)
I followed the bison trail across Alum Creek and stopped for a snack and water to enjoy a few minutes of sunlight.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_up_valley-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_up_valley-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107648-c2e02ddd1de396c150ade7ff7b702385.jpg)
A lodgepole forest heavily scarred by bison.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison-scarred_trees.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison-scarred_trees.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107649-06aa5d1be6050a5656f1e5eddbff9d13.jpg)
A bison wallow adjacent to well-worn trail. I heard a series of wolf howls off to the east from here, in the headwaters of Trout Creek. Sounded like 4-5 wolves.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_trail&wallow.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_trail&wallow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107650-c6fa92d0203972ced4d53ec9b731346b.jpg)
Continuing on down the trail.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_trail-3.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_bison_trail-3.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107651-199e401b642c03227e38c9012c3fa06c.jpg)
I finally reach Hayden Valley. It's still a bit chilly with a slight breeze, but what a great day.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107652-1233eb3bc8f0f60f07046216217270c5.jpg)
A bison along Alum Creek. This may be one of the bison I have been following.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley_lone_bison.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley_lone_bison.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107653-fc05faa897f6c208602b6818207190c2.jpg)
Staying on a bison trail through the sagebrush.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley_bison_trail.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley_bison_trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107654-a6c87059f0e44f4bd57a341c8096c3bd.jpg)
Walking into Glen Africa.
![YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley_Glen_Africa_thermals.jpg YNP_Day-2_upper_Alum_Cr_Hayden_Valley_Glen_Africa_thermals.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107655-814f1b5fee4c552e5ae849bf614bbb91.jpg)
As Alum Creek passes through this thermal area, it warms substantially.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107656-0d97d60e461d54b23f204ddbfb99e73a.jpg)
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek&Glen_Africa.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek&Glen_Africa.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107657-e165fe350cb76a25acb9d136b01adc81.jpg)
Looking back after crossing Alum Creek. I had tossed my pack onto the grassy island, almost losing my camera in the process.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_crossing.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_crossing.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107658-f0906eef8f37027293b9a111953fb5c7.jpg)
A small group of bison. The nearest ones had been a couple hundred yards away but still spooked and ran toward the rest of the group.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_bison-3.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_bison-3.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107659-d5e469ee5b4b91d607cc8c17bc236232.jpg)
Looking back at Glen Africa basin.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_Glen_Africa_basin-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_Glen_Africa_basin-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107660-919a7a2557ad1bc9ad0e47b2808c1b0b.jpg)
I headed up the ridge to the north and saw this group of bison, just ustream of the other group.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_bison-1-2.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_bison-1-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107661-8d1013ee3e229dd5ea047bddfd26ce8b.jpg)
I pick up a bison trail and continue north.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_bison_trail.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_bison_trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107662-0b3047cc9d7c5f0b94db035a0c951edd.jpg)
As I approach the Mary Mountain Trail, I pass this grizzly track.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_griz_track_snow.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_griz_track_snow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107663-0321d73850cb3071778c09fbc2e535d3.jpg)
Continuing north.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_Mary_Mtn_trail.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_Mary_Mtn_trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107664-f469a7a3823b98056a6c3fbb1e7579eb.jpg)
Approaching another bison wallow.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_bison_trail&wallow.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_bison_trail&wallow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107665-5932adaeaa23151c8c1e43cb15d521f8.jpg)
Looking east across Hayden Valley to the Absarokas.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_view_E.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_view_E.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107666-6ca5a9347e153821b38d5032c8d34342.jpg)
A couple of mountain bluebirds. There were a few feeding on insects in the sagebrush in the warm sun.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_mtn_bluebirds.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Alum_Creek_N_mtn_bluebirds.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107668-93ebb4cf6659047970999005bfb03dd9.jpg)
A group of bison just northwest of Violet Creek thermal area.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_bison-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_bison-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107669-c189532437a8cc64e757a0f705ce3b30.jpg)
Violet Creek thermal area.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107670-c2bb6747e56f86aef3b6c87571cad2b6.jpg)
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermal_pools.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermal_pools.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107671-3303a5c860fec79a03c424d12644d51c.jpg)
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermal_area-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermal_area-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107673-ce3b72d20df02e8a7bbdc444ba999d02.jpg)
The bison trail through and out of the thermal area.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_bison_trail.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_bison_trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107674-f768b6153b681563dff86fb921ae7a80.jpg)
In the meadow just north of the thermal area.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_bison-3.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_bison-3.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107675-474b4b2140a9cb01230dbfd11e6f9058.jpg)
The view to the southeast.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_meadow-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_thermals_meadow-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107676-2c5776c81c7dbb4b9354f27a18ea290b.jpg)
Heading north in earnest toward Otter Creek.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_route_N.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_route_N.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107677-2a7300d0e5bd2969030a3337c01881df.jpg)
Coyote, grizzly and bison track.
![YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_N_griz_bison&coyote_track.jpg YNP_Day-2_Hayden_Valley_Violet_Cr_N_griz_bison&coyote_track.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107678-601a1c4f02fcf5be1f6de47c5991de1a.jpg)
Real walkable terrain and open forest.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_route_N.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_route_N.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107679-0c36d0bd5a9aca0c09baad83f4cfb604.jpg)
One of the many little meadows on the way to Otter Creek.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_meadow.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_meadow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107680-46337a075f7a966182af295ac049e3f2.jpg)
Another thermal area. The terrain is littered with small thermal spots.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_thermal.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_thermal.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107681-74169b6112c8b67e023f15da8dbe4d57.jpg)
A small thicket of young lodgepoles.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_route_N-1-2.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_route_N-1-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107683-72995a2257989a36d0309ce77ac9355f.jpg)
More easy-to-walk, inviting terrain and forests.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_route_N-3.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_route_N-3.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107684-b9d869f3f2b27e8e7e739018eaf75756.jpg)
Another thermal area.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_thermals.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_thermals.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107685-062d4649c41c3fd23ee272d513f2c431.jpg)
One of the larger thermal areas along the way.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_thermals-1-2.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_area_thermals-1-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107686-01b0d881c75038677c85f6fb4f89e46a.jpg)
A meadow in the headwaters of Otter Creek I tried to obtain a permit to remotely camp here a few years ago. I was denied.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_puddle-1.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_puddle-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107687-3ab0a366c7a278eabc73044f055388ab.jpg)
Another thicket, so far these come and go pretty quickly.
![YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_thicket.jpg YNP_Day-2_Otter_Cr_thicket.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107688-c1996bef176dc22ae040e9442be0a153.jpg)
I reach the Cygnet Lakes trail and follow it for a few minutes before heading northwest on my way to Ice Lake.
![YNP_Day-2_Cygnet_L_trail.jpg YNP_Day-2_Cygnet_L_trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107689-d6cfe6aff71c4fd92b4a088cf14b6a03.jpg)
Pretty easy traveling off trail.
![YNP_Day-2_route_N.jpg YNP_Day-2_route_N.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107690-0a12b1d49a1c48ec3884667be80bc88c.jpg)
I finally reach the Norris-Canyon Road. I have an hour or 2 of daylight left so feel good about reaching Ice Lake. Soon after this I run into large swaths of regenerating lodgepoles pines, slowing my pace substantially. Really substantially. I eventually spilled out of the forest onto the trail and followed it to the campsite, very relieved. I end up reaching the Ice Lake Campsite at about 11 pm, in the dark and exhausted.
![YNP_Day-2_Norris-Canyon_Rd.jpg YNP_Day-2_Norris-Canyon_Rd.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107691-6b843992b719ac6c485fa2f467a36f2e.jpg)
Day 3.
The next morning, I woke up, had breakfast, and hike a few minutes back to the Gibbon River crossing. I saw it last night with a headlamp and thought it would look nice in the morning light.
![YNP_Day-3_Gibbon_R_morning.jpg YNP_Day-3_Gibbon_R_morning.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107692-64f0efe2a3b59a56bd7e18b0194d73a7.jpg)
I return to camp and catch some photos of Ice Lake in a beautiful morning.
![YNP_Day-3_Ice_L-1.jpg YNP_Day-3_Ice_L-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107693-2173a520aaf3c950feffd725a7c97a09.jpg)
The campsite is pretty expansive compared to most. I did manage to set up my tent in a spot that received early sun, which was nice.
![YNP_Day-3_Ice_L_CS_4D2-2.jpg YNP_Day-3_Ice_L_CS_4D2-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107694-65180641f6bed3e02a5fb3da09148a64.jpg)
The trail heading west from the Ice Lake CS. I follow it to, and past the Norris Meadows CS. I saw 2 people along the north shore of Ice Lake, the first people I had seen since leaving the road 2 days ago, .
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Trail.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Trail.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107695-ca2de8c71038415b3e88fc17b283ce69.jpg)
Sometimes there's no escaping deadfall.
![YNP_Day-3_Ice_L_Trail_deadfall.jpg YNP_Day-3_Ice_L_Trail_deadfall.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107696-b30d8585bd177e4950f0fd63c6d6e938.jpg)
I reach the meadows. At this point I left the trail for good. Mount Holmes is off to the left. I believe that is Electric Peak in the back right-center.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_meadows&Mt_Holmes-2.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_meadows&Mt_Holmes-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107697-505dc6a7da8302a8e5320ca543ad5b3e.jpg)
Heading up the Solfatara Creek valley. More awesome travel conditions.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_route.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_route.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107698-abd3b81743370862e03061d5b72e738e.jpg)
I reach this unnamed creek coming in from the east. At this point I was feeling pretty lazy so I took my time deciding where to cross. I spent probably an hour here.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_unnamed_trib.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_unnamed_trib.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107699-03156742748f6c7acee65322f13077aa.jpg)
As the day wore on, I noticed more and more pieces of obsidian.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_obsidian.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_obsidian.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107700-69979a668d5a2ca869bce35bb63501ca.jpg)
I spent most of the day traveling through expansive meadows. No sign of humans at all, well except for these poles. But by early afternoon I was past the last of them.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_meadow.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_meadow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107701-d50e543b30ec52dadfa4e4737b4c1e1d.jpg)
A lone bison. I love how these quiet valleys seem to provide a good spot for these old boys.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_bison-1.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_bison-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107702-20134f54d2f0fa77ade8fdf955926c37.jpg)
A log ripped open by a bear.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_bear_log.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_bear_log.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107704-0ff098bb77cefd0a39d33dc6f44803eb.jpg)
A small unnamed pond.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_meadow&pond-2.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_meadow&pond-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107705-b7aa89a798c03dbcd2e5c22b903458bd.jpg)
One of the northernmost meadows along Solfatara Creek. The meadow closes down pretty tightly in the back.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_into_big_meadow.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_into_big_meadow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107706-e28cda4489107f3e6390607eabcaa45d.jpg)
Another of the interesting finds along the way.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_elk_skull.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_elk_skull.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107707-c9471b95beade3174bf8f1affd0c9761.jpg)
Hiking closer to the extreme north end of the valley.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_way_up_valley.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_way_up_valley.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107708-3b749cdbf35f70d24455a112058f8d32.jpg)
It opens again for a short while then closes as I approach the headwaters .
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_looking_up_valley.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_looking_up_valley.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107709-0c5c72f3bd2aef5318aa77db3a513a6a.jpg)
The forest closes in for good.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_into_the_trees.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_into_the_trees.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107710-82a2cdcc7a08bf0c5e90e9dede0a3cf5.jpg)
I continue up valley. I realize just past here that I wandered up a side valley and need to turn left up the slope to reach my next camp. Plenty of time left for that.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_wrong_valley.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_wrong_valley.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107711-b25afc1d322cd4a1bb0a17b98d4a7b2e.jpg)
And then it's deja-vu all over again. I hit an extended patch of thick lodgepole regeneration and my pace slows to a crawl. I start to realize I may end up in the same situation as last night but all I can do is keep going and hope it ends soon.
![YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_upper_thicket.jpg YNP_Day-3_Solfatara_Cr_upper_thicket.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107712-15a052be024a2c934f3d1641610b59e2.jpg)
Day 4.
Well it takes a while but I leave the thicket behind and travel the last 1/2 mile to camp in a few minutes. I set up camp, find a great tree to hang the food, have some dinner, and hit the sack. I am asleep quickly. The next morning, I break camp, grab a couple granola bars and head out. Yesterday was a great one and I'm excited for this one.
Horseshoe Hill Thermal Area. I reach this in about 5 minutes after leaving camp.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107714-a7e38671dfadb40b8f284f17edb91f65.jpg)
A brief stretch through the trees. A perfect warm up.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_forest_route.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_forest_route.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107715-c7ae99aaae1aac7f137ff1f621012803.jpg)
Then up through another section of the thermal area.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107716-1bf58367d4c164bbe00173b64356840e.jpg)
A chunk of sulphur.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_sulphur-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_sulphur-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107717-266864e1adeb0e250f0a0a6dac8cc64e.jpg)
Another big chunk of obsidian. At this point I realize that I'm not too terribly far east of Obsidian Cliffs.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_obsidian.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_obsidian.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107718-6af5ac18d0efa752ba8213935fd352c0.jpg)
Mount Holmes with Trilobite Point in front.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_Mt_Holmes.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_Mt_Holmes.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107719-71728f946bc938b84c6f51662b657fd7.jpg)
A lot of flat ground as I headed north.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_N_route-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_thermal_area_N_route-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107720-cc29a5c3e7d10803c009365721dd4019.jpg)
One of several meadows in the area.
![YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_E_meadow.jpg YNP_Day-4_Solfatara_Cr_Horse_Shoe_Hill_E_meadow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107721-33aaf8657ee575a915b6b5f91e995c29.jpg)
A shallow pond along the way.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_pond.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_pond.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107722-c6d545b85c12f8996da99e9c15f1d54b.jpg)
This pond at really low water. There were a handful of ducks as I approached but they moved off to a puddle a little south of here.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr__dried_pond-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr__dried_pond-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107723-fd98988066428f39d6ed41a696319349.jpg)
More lodgepole thickets.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107724-7423db9c27f4ac8c03cb71b1dda37478.jpg)
Eventually I came across a game trail.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket_path.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket_path.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107725-341ac3e2e59a57987977702c6344d3cb.jpg)
The thicket ended and an easier hike began.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket_ends.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket_ends.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107726-91e86daeb41361aab0bcd0194d7fe8c8.jpg)
I spent a couple hours hiking through a beautiful and open lodgepole forest, It doesn't come any easier than this.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_open_forest (3).jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_open_forest (3).jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107727-76bbc66b68dc3033f248bb2bf66409c0.jpg)
After crossing the above gully, I'm back on a long relatively flat ridge.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_open_forest.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_open_forest.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107729-736d6a55df1a3b0a7da7556c73ab2e00.jpg)
It continued...
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_open_forest-5.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_open_forest-5.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107731-06e9384d874a7887f9f91eb3ebf05475.jpg)
...until it doesn't. I reach a thicket from hell. The only respite is finding the larger down logs that allow me to travel in a straight line for a few dozen feet. I keep waiting for it to end but it goes on and on.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_thicket-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107732-a31de57144825bc658d786505be079ff.jpg)
and on.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_closing_in_LP_regen.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_closing_in_LP_regen.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107733-67fb21021bf797e9cbee9dddfdec34b6.jpg)
I found a downed log that was a bit elevated. I climb on it, take out my camera, reach up and take a picture. I look at the picture and realize it is not ending anytime soon. Time to take a different route. I turn right and head to the Lava Creek valley.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_overview_LP_regen-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_overview_LP_regen-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107734-a56e2ab7607c6eec34cabeaa2e0790bd.jpg)
Within 10 minutes I am out of the thicket. According to the Garmin InReach, I traveled 1/10 mile in just under an hour. Things look much better now. Looking over Lava Creek.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sideslope_Ceanothus&LP-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sideslope_Ceanothus&LP-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107735-82255dc9cecedb2075f92111959805f6.jpg)
Lava Creek and a lone bison.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr&bison-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr&bison-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107736-8bb4859eee19e8235d38ad5a7c78c65b.jpg)
Looking up valley.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sideslope_up_valley-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sideslope_up_valley-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107737-5187184293e6783624d82e541d432d90.jpg)
Some fall color on the west side of Lava Creek.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sideslope_colors-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sideslope_colors-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107738-3d18f0c27fc926922605be1fe1a98af1.jpg)
Alongside Lava Creek.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_up_valley-1.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_up_valley-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107739-3a13dac18acb445c9e966d0af05f03a7.jpg)
More colors.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107741-00b35722888a6a6f19a605e10cd371df.jpg)
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-5.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-5.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107742-c647772824104a6f5708215b7437a024.jpg)
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-1-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-1-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107743-15ef185caf8efb431b8c9b3ed7f9fb1e.jpg)
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-2-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-2-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107744-67e962b1f88a1885c61f2112851128e1.jpg)
I loved all the red.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-5-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-5-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107745-eaeda21f8abb9cc8b2aa6229d33e6e1f.jpg)
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors-9.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors-9.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107748-247513f1b596ceeb75b2dca205b78f22.jpg)
Now on the eastern slope of Lava Creek.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sage&colors-5.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_sage&colors-5.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107749-f330c2ae3020ce1a21ba171214deb821.jpg)
I continued down valley and found these 2 specimens.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_elk_antlers.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_elk_antlers.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107750-e005b6d9623f8087f0a381e37e9e3ee7.jpg)
Another set in the rocks.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_bear_elk_antlers&rock-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_bear_elk_antlers&rock-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107753-626225203d238428f5951eb2ceaebfb1.jpg)
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-3-3.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-3-3.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107755-c12c1bc52f43c32126ee9c032b701ef7.jpg)
The colors and the light were awesome to travel through. A beautiful afternoon and evening.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-6-2.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_colors&rock-6-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107756-97b2d32d87f83220a6988e62e8a25077.jpg)
Another elk wallow.
![YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_elk_wallow.jpg YNP_Day-4_Lava_Cr_elk_wallow.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107757-8b1ab3f543efbc1111ff819753fd6c78.jpg)
There were several springs draining off the hillside. I did not want to sleep along the creek in the tight valley so I headed upslope near one of the springs and found a great spot to camp. After dinner, on the ridge across the creek, a lone bull started bugling. I glassed the slope for several minutes but could not locate him. He finally walked out of the forest briefly and wound his way through the trees as he headed down valley. I glimpsed him briefly one more time, then he was gone. The bugling continued another 10 minutes. As darkness approached, a cow elk started talking with soft mews and squeals. I watched her and her calf a bit and then crawled into bed.
Day 5.
I awoke to another beautiful morning.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_scene-2.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_scene-2.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107759-0349e4f68462c35321f4517827f055bd.jpg)
While heating water for oatmeal, I heard a bugle. I started looking around and saw this guy just over the ridge. The bugling continued for nearly an hour as he moved back and forth along the ridge.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_elk_ridge.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_elk_ridge.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107761-44c0f104a425df2d90eb196ee857d3e5.jpg)
He appeared to be very curious about my presence but this was as close as he came.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_elk_ridge_close-6.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_elk_ridge_close-6.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107763-46fe900c382a0cd7e61243904fc2c03a.jpg)
The moon is almost gone for the day.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_setting_moon.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_camp-4_setting_moon.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107764-c98c21e215cd2221f52ca3b196754d77.jpg)
Once the bugling stopped, I packed and continued on game trails through the sagebrush. Pretty soon I started finding more antlers.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_elk_antlers_sagebrush-1.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_elk_antlers_sagebrush-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107765-5938b7cbdec89166555ac9080e8ed148.jpg)
I finally neared the Douglas fir forests. This is some of the best black bear habitat in the park. I felt optimistic at my chances of seeing one.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_Doug_Firs.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_Doug_Firs.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107766-1d5774f6809a596ad132858f9678aafa.jpg)
More shed antlers.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_elk_antlers_both_left-1.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_elk_antlers_both_left-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107767-e1785dc6b70a1b5406742decc6732125.jpg)
A few more elk wallows in the wet seeps.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_elk_wallows.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_elk_wallows.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107768-57441bd7875751338d9b01abb2c7bb81.jpg)
Rather than head straight down to the road, I contoured along, hoping to spot a bear. I passed a lot of sign along the way.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_Doug_Fir_forest-1.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_Doug_Fir_forest-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107769-e7511f28100265453e28b19016904fa7.jpg)
Mount Everts across the valley.
![YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_Doug_Fir_forest&Everts.jpg YNP_Day-5_Lava_Cr_Doug_Fir_forest&Everts.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107770-4da9e5e8b51abff006f81ea4d2da7758.jpg)
I eventually reached the road. I saw no bears in the trees, unfortunately. While walking along the road, I did spot this bald eagle.
![YNP_Day-5_Bald_Eagle_over_road.jpg YNP_Day-5_Bald_Eagle_over_road.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107771-09f0a55ef6e037ec28f8d1616e7f1de6.jpg)
I briefly tried hitchhiking to the Mammoth area but after a few minutes, I decided to walk there. My niece and her husband were delayed on their way up so I was in no hurry to reach the development. The view opened up providing this view of Mt Sepulcher and Mammoth Terraces. The top and a ridge of Electric Peak shows itself just left of Mt Sepulcher. Clagett Butte is at the far left.
![YNP_Day-5_Mammoth_Terraces&Sepulcher_Mtn.jpg YNP_Day-5_Mammoth_Terraces&Sepulcher_Mtn.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107772-6aa4282aaaf0e1e832d2ffa86af44b8c.jpg)
I reached Mammoth and headed in for a cold drink and a snack. I was hoping for a shower but those are not provided here. I found a spot in the shade and sat down to enjoy my Dr. Pepper and ice cream sandwich. Eventually my niece and her husband and 8 month old girl showed up. I throw my gear in and we're gone. The drive to the south entrance was uneventful. There may have been a grizzly visible in the Swan Lake Flat but we just wanted out of the crowds and parked cars lining the road. We stopped at Old Faithful Lodge and stopped in for a takeout dinner, which we ate in the nearly empty parking lot. I hustled into the Old Faithful Inn, bought a shower and hurried through that.
We drove out of the Park, turned onto the Grassy Lake Road and went looking for a campsite, eventually ending up at Grassy Lake Reservoir. We were the only ones there. Exhausted we pitched our tents in the dark and crashed.
We woke to a chilly but beautiful morning by the reservoir.
![YNP_Day-5_Grassy_L_Reservoir-1.jpg YNP_Day-5_Grassy_L_Reservoir-1.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107773-b66d486fc75592d9bf87f324bacca840.jpg)
It seemed to take forever but the sun finally reached us, warming us quickly. My niece let the bambino out to play in the gravel.
![YNP_Day-6_LBF&Kennedy.jpg YNP_Day-6_LBF&Kennedy.jpg](https://backcountrypost.com/data/attachments/107/107774-1f8a928054993cc19636333e37ffa6be.jpg)
We headed to the Headwaters Lodge, grabbed some delicious burritos to go, and continued south to the Jackson Airport, where they threw me out in disgust and told me to never return. I caught my flight and was headed back to AK.
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