Yellowstone/Tetons Help

[AKay09]

Very strangely, exactly one year ago today,I came on here asking for help with a trip to either Yellowstone or Glacier. I ended up going with Glacier and it was an incredible trip, absolutely amazing! Did 50 miles over the North Fork area over 5 days and loved, just about, every minute of it.

Now I'm once again looking for help with another trip. I would love to be able to do a trip to both Yellowstone and the Tetons later this year, perhaps late June again but preferably mid September. My main problem is I cannot find any good trail maps that have mileage included on them, so I'm struggling to figure out what my options are for a 3 or 4 day hike in each park.

You guys all helped me out last year so lets see if you can come to the rescue once again! I guess I'm looking for a map that would help me or other people's itineraries that could also help. Thanks!

 

[Nick]

You know what they say... first time's free. Second will cost you a trip report.

 

[Outdoor_Fool]

While you are writing your trip report, check out the Trails Illustrated map for GTNP, mileages are included. From my past experiences, the mileages are reasonably accurate. Also, it seems that some of the resources on the GTNP website has mileages. If you are there in Early October, we may run into each other.

www.nps.gov/grte

Have fun planning your trip.

 

[AKay09]

Haha alright, alright I'll see what I can do about a trip report. It won't be that exciting but I'll try.

Thanks, Outdoor_Fool, I'll have to give those maps a try!

 

[genez]

@Outdoor_Fool Interesting - I have the Trails Illustrated map for GTNP and I want to say the mileage waypoints (red markers) are not on there! I know they have overall mileage listed for specific hikes though. I'm doing "most" of the Crest and Middle Teton mid-July so I've been planning recently. I'll have to double check when I get home.

I was in Yellowstone and GTNP mid September last year. We saw the first snow in Yellowstone and got dumped on in Garnet Canyon overnight which cancelled our summit attempt of the Middle... I think some other BCP members were there at the same time, but on the Crest, if I recall that trip report. If it wasn't for our bad luck in weather, it would have been perfect.

 

[AKay09]

@genez hmmm you're gonna have to let know about the map when you get a chance. Generally GTNP and Yellowstone aren't hit with lots of snow in mid-September are they? I know anything can happen, obviously, but it's generally not a lot or common is it?

 

[Chuck the Mauler]

I was in the northern part of the park last September. I believe it was the week after Labor Day. Be ready for this.

As far as the maps go, the OLD Nat Geo maps have the red markers with mileage. The ones issued after 2005 don't show mileage. If you have any Teton questions, I'm your huckleberry.

 

[Langdon Greene]

Yeah, Chuck the Mauler makes a great point about the weather. Normally, first couple of weeks after Labor Day, you're safe to assume no snow - but on any given year, you'll get hit. (In Glacier one year, they had a huge snowstorm in AUGUST just a few days after an 80+ degree day!)

We were in the Sawtooths last year Sept 12-19, probably the same week that CtM took his photo above, and about 30 miles into our 70 mile route, woke up to snow that wasn't supposed to be there (at Baron Lake, which has got to be about the prettiest place to be snowed in at). When we planned the trip a few months earlier, we thought we'd be safe weather-wise in mid-September..... Not!

Some of the GTNP line maps (I.e., the drawn/sketched ones, not the topos) have mileage on them, but the damn things change just about every other year it seems - but just by a few tenths here or there. In GTNP, I'd encourage at the very least, the Paintbrush-Cascade Loop, it's about 20 miles. But it would be a shame to miss Alaska Basin or South Fork Cascade (the latter of which you could add onto the PB-Cascade loop as an out & back spur). The 'heart' of the Teton Crest Trail from Marion Lake (going up Granite Canyon or the ski lift) to Paintbrush runs about 40 miles, you could do that in 4 days (certainly doable - the climbs are not bad at all) but that would be rushing it, IMO. That area is so beautiful, it's worth taking the lower mileage days to experience it more leisurely.

Oh, here's the 'line' map I was talking about, with the mileages:
http://www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/upload/Backcountry14.pdf

If you want my opinion... if you can't comfortably knock off the 40-miles of TCT in 4 days, I'd skip Yellowstone (or just do the front country thing there) and spend 5-6 days doing the Teton Crest trail. I don't think any backpack in Yellowstone of any length compares to the Teton Crest. There, I said it. Just my 2 cents, your mileage may differ, taxes and tags extra, void where prohibited, yada yada yada....

The wildflowers on the Teton crest are amazing, btw. If you go after July, they're probably winding down and mostly gone by Sept. (We went during last week of July a few years ago, and they were amazing. Middle Fork of Granite Canyon, which most people seemingly bypass in their rush to get to Marion via the northern fork, was outstanding re: its wildflowers!)

 

[Chuck the Mauler]

To be fair, I've been backpacking in the Tetons (sometimes twice a year) for at least the past 15+ years. All of those years one of the trips would either be the week before or after Labor Day. In my recollection, only 3 of those times did I have snow. Based on that I'd say you have a 1 in 5+ chance of snow during the time frame you're after.

Skip the tram unless you're pressed for time. I've done it twice to start a trip. I prefer Death Canyon or Granite Canyon to start my trips there. If you start at DC TH get to the last 2 sites in the camp zone where you will have you first views of the Grand from camp. If you start at Granite TH, Marion Lake is the preferred goal. Bonus tip: One year (2013) we stayed at Moose Lake and saw 2 wolves. That was the only time I've ever seen or heard them in the Tetons. Another option is to start near Teton Pass to do the COMPLETE crest trail. I've only done that once and started at Coal Creek as I recall. I didn't find it overly "special" so haven't gone back to try it again. Lately I've been exploring the northern part of the park seldom seen.

Paintbrush is special but I prefer Hurricane Pass. The side trips off the Crest are worth your time (Static Peak, Mica Lake, etc).

 

[genez]

@AKay09 - I checked my map and it is a newer one, like @Chuck the Mauler mentioned. No mileage segments for the trails. You can check out CalTopo and figure it out though, just takes some time. Weather wise, yeah - anything can happen. I'm just 1/1 for snow in the Tetons in Sept.

Just to share info:

My proposed itinerary is including the tram, since we are trying to get as much ground covered as possible, splitting our week between the Crest and Garnet Canyon. Unfortunately this doesn't leave much for side trips, like Static Peak.

Tram to Death Canyon Shelf day 1 - Camp - Hike through Alaska Basin to the top sites of South Fork Cascade day 2 - Camp - Down Cascade and out to Jenny Lake day 3. I figured that's about 10-12 miles per day, give or take.

My only logistical problem that I can think of right now is getting from Jenny Lake back to Teton Village. I heard there might be a bus/shuttle to Jackson and then a shuttle from there to Teton Village?

 

[Ben]

this is some what accurate.

Click here to view on CalTopo
in my experience, actual mileages are some times as much as 10% longer than what i get on caltopo.

 

[Chuck the Mauler]

If you can manage, add just one day and hike over Paintbrush and stay in either Upper Paintbrush campzone or better yet, Holly Lake exiting at either String Lake or Jenny.

You'll have no problem hitching a ride from Jenny Lake back to Teton Village. If you're not comfortable doing that, call Teton taxi. They'll shuttle you back to the village for around $20 a person.......Better yet would be for them (or someone else) to pick you up at Jenny or String Lake and take you to the tram at the beginning of your trip so that when you get out your car will be there waiting for you.

There are a few posters here who have been known to help with shuttles. Stay tuned.....

Edit: If given the choice I would avoid Jenny Lake and hike out north, around Jenny Lake to the String Lake TH. Pretty much the same distance without the zoo.

 

[genez]

If you can manage, add just one day and hike over Paintbrush and stay in either Upper Paintbrush campzone or better yet, Holly Lake exiting at either String Lake or Jenny.

You'll have no problem hitching a ride from Jenny Lake back to Teton Village. If you're not comfortable doing that, call Teton taxi. They'll shuttle you back to the village for around $20 a person.......Better yet would be for them (or someone else) to pick you up at Jenny or String Lake and take you to the tram at the beginning of your trip so that when you get out your car will be there waiting for you.

There are a few posters here who have been known to help with shuttles. Stay tuned.....

I did think about the reverse shuttle, leaving the car near Jenny lake for our exit. It is a great idea, if we can make it happen. I'm not opposed to hitching, not sure about my friend. We are also debating grabbing a cheap hotel room at Teton Village to clean and repack for Garnet Canyon midweek. I think the weather conditions will determine that on the fly.

Still have plenty of time to work out the details. We're there July 9th or 10th to the 16th. I do plan on reporting this trip on here, haven't seen a Garnet Canyon/Middle Teton report on here yet.

Also - @AKay09 - not intentionally hijacking your thread, but I think we will both get some good info from this!

 

[AKay09]

Wow thanks for all the info and the maps! I really appreciate the suggestions for a trip.

@Langdon Greene Thanks for the map and the suggestions. I think we could do 10 miles a day and be alright and I would like to visit Yellowstone, I have never been and am a big wildlife guy so I would like to spend at least 2 days there so I'll see what I can swing and how many days my friends are willing to go for.

@Chuck the Mauler thanks for the input on the couple different trails, I'll definitely look into them. Would love to see wolves also so that is pretty cool. I have seen 2 in Wisconsin over the last 20+ years and both times were amazing. Also that is a heck of a lot of snow and hearing some of these stories I may have to decide to move the trip up a bit, I don't think we would have the gear to be able to handle all of that!

@genez Hijack away! If we are both looking for the same information I have no problem with you jumping in a little bit. ha I'm all for hearing other peoples itineraries and seeing others input on them.

 

[Bob]

Falcon books has pretty decent mileage figures on trails they cover

 

[Chuck the Mauler]

Cheap hotel in Teton Village isn't going to happen. The hostel there will be close to $150. Better off staying at the motel 6 in Jackson Hole.

I don't usually post trip reports here, but can tell you I've started a crest trail trip via Death Canyon or Granite Canyon many times. What would you like to know? Side note: From the tram to the shelf is very doable. Nice hike too.

I'm out of town for the weekend and hate using my iPhone for any forum conversation. I'll check back in when I get home.

 

[Langdon Greene]

Oh, I didn't realize you had never been to Yellowstone before - sorry. That changes things a bit, then. Although I stand by my earlier statement that no backpacking in YS compares to the Teton Crest (and I'd still strongly recommend a 4-5 day Crest route there), there is such awesome geological stuff to see in Yellowstone that cannot be seen anywhere else (except a little bit in Lassen). And the wildlife too, of course. DEFINITELY take at least 3 days to do the typical front-country touristy thing in YS, it would be a shame to be that close and not see it. You should still do your backpacking in Teton, but yeah, if you've never seen Yellowstone ever before, then DO make time to go there too. I'd suggest 3 days there at least, hard to really see the park in 2 days without being way too rushed.

 

[Bob]

this is some what accurate.
[in my experience, actual mileages are some times as much as 10% longer than what i get on caltopo.

When I plan high country trips.....I figure 7 to 8 miles map mileage per day.......and usually the actual mileage runs around 10 per day. Works good for me...

 

[Absarokanaut]

For Yellowstone I've relied on Orville Bach's Sierra Club Guide since the 70s. Marshall's mileage problems were pointed out to me at the backpacker forum a dozen years ago. I also like the Sierra Club Tote for GTNP but Rebecca Wood's "Jackson Hole Hikes" is the one you want if you want detailed Crest stuff.

A couple quick hints: If you do the Bechler in September DO NOT skip Dunanda Falls Only adds a few total miles if you're doing Kepler Cascades to Bechler Ranger Station. A lot of folks don't like south of Marion Lake and most skip it but I had greatest success with wildlife on that section of the Crest a few times.

 

[Bob]

Marion to Moose Basin to Phillips TH is a nice area.....