Trout Creek to Cygnet Lakes - Yellowstone National Park - July 6, 2016

scatman

Member
.
Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Messages
3,629
After hiking 20+ miles two days earlier along the Mary Mountain Trail, @Joey , @Keith and @Keith R. were sporting enough to join @McGimpkins and myself for a 22 miler through the southern end of Hayden Valley, up to Mary Lake and then north to Cygnet Lakes before exiting the backcountry at the Cygnet Lakes Trailhead. I had completed this hike seven years earlier and wanted to go back and get a more precise route from Mary Lake to Cygnet Lakes on the now defunct Plateau Trail.

While driving into the Park, we had strategically placed @McGimpkin's truck at the Cygnet Lakes Trailhead for our shuttle vehicle.

Well, as you can imagine everyone was all smiles as we awoke at 4:30 am at the Bridge Bay Campground to get ready to go. After getting all of our gear ready, we set off for Hayden Valley and Trout Creek. We parked our vehicles at the turnout just south of where Trout Creek flows under the Grand Loop Road and were on the trail by 5:36 am.

01.jpg
Starting before sunrise

Our approach would be to follow the old stagecoach route along Trout Creek through the southern end of Hayden Valley and intersect with the Mary Mountain Trail a couple of miles from Mary Lake. This route would take us past the old Trout Creek Garbage Dump, the hill where the Craigheads' conducted a vast majority of their Grizzly Bear research in the 60's and by Larry's Lunch Counter where the stagecoaches would stop so that their passengers could have lunch as they passed from the west side of the Park to the east side. Also, we would take some time to explore the thermal features along Alum Creek known as Glen Africa's Basin.

02.jpg
Quite chilly at the start even though @Keith is wearing a short sleeved shirt

Twenty six minutes after beginning our hike, Joey spotted a grizzly sow with two cubs to the south of us. She is aware of us and is running towards the west with the two cubs in tow. Occasionally, she will rise up on two legs to get a better look at us and determine exactly what we are.

03.jpg
@Joey checking out the sow with two cubs

Well of course this has everyone in our group pretty excited as we continued on. @Keith notices as we cross under some power poles that one of the poles has something on it and he goes to investigate what it might be. It turns out that it is some kind of temperature gauge. @Keith, please fill in the details.

04.jpg
@Joey on the old stagecoach road

05.jpg
The two Keiths and McGimpkins checking out the mysterious metal box on the telephone pole

Next up for us was the old garbage dump, where we took a small amount of time to explore on our way west.

06.jpg
A portion of the old garbage dump along Trout Creek in Hayden Valley

Garbage_Dump_1969.jpg
The Trout Creek Garbage Dump (still active) in 1969. You can actually see the grizzly trails radiating into it as they made their way to feed on the Park refuse that was hauled there.

After leaving the dump site, we noticed six or seven bison in front of us that took off on a dead run as if they had been shot out of a cannon! We contemplated whether it was us or something else that might have spooked them into such a hurry. Perhaps wolves were on the prowl! As we made our way along the top of a small drainage basin, we could see the culprit - a grizzly bear. He didn't seem to notice us as he made his way around the opposite side of the basin. At one point, an elk came over the hill to the north of us and started down into the basin obviously without seeing the bear. The grizzly proceeded to turn and like lightning began to chase the elk down. It was right on the elk's haunches for a good distance before giving up the chase. I suspect he may have gotten wind of us observing the whole encounter. I have to say that this was the most awe inspiring event that I have witnessed in the backcountry in my 27 years of hiking/backpacking. What a treat to witness.

07.jpg
The old road leaving the garbage dump

SAM_0301.JPG
The grizzly before the chase ensued. Note you have a bear, biosn and elk all in the same shot. Photo courtesy of McGimpkins

Well if that doesn't get the blood pumping then nothing will. Just over an hour into our hike and already four grizzlies.

We continued along the road, with beautiful views of Hayden Valley unfolding before us, crossed Trout Creek and the next unnamed drainage before taking a break.

08.jpg
Elephant heads in bloom in Hayden Valley

09.jpg
@Keith R. crossing Trout Creek in stride

10.jpg
Southern portion of Hayden Valley

11.jpg
@Joey making his way through Hayden Valley

12.jpg
@Keith standing on an old bridge abutment over an unnamed drainage. We took a break in the trees ahead

After break, we continued to walk in the bed of the old stagecoach road as it makes its way along the tree line on the southern end of the valley. Along the way, we run into many bull bison that seem to be curious as to why humans are back in these parts. Eventually, we reach Alum Creek where we took a detour north along the creek to Glen Africa Basin.

13.jpg
Hiking along the old stagecoach road with Hayden Valley stretching out to the west

14.jpg
A good shot of the old road bed cut into the hillside

15.jpg
Hiking along the road. Mary Mountain in the distance can be seen just above @Keith 's head

16.jpg
Mary Mountain

17.jpg
Bison along our way

18.jpg
A lone bull

19.jpg
Approaching Alum Creek

20.jpg
The old bridge abutment at Alum Creek

We headed north along the creek through a small canyon to reach the basin. The short distance through the canyon was littered with elk bones and antlers along with small thermal features. Once the canyon opened up into Hayden Valley again we found ourselves at Glen Africa's Basin where we took our second break of the day. The basin has a couple of nice thermal hot springs that we checked out before returning to the road and on to the Mary Mountain Trail.

21.jpg
Heading north along Alum Creek towards Glen Africa Basin

22.jpg
Customary shot with the elk skull and antlers. Neither of us are smiling @Bob

23.jpg
Thermal feature in Glen Africa Basin

24.jpg
Thermal feature in Glen Africa Basin

After Alum Creek, the old roads begins a small 0.9 mile climb before intersecting with the Mary Mountain Trail. Once on the Mary Mountain Trail, it is an easy two mile hike to Mary Lake and the patrol cabin located there where we stopped to eat lunch and refill our water bottles.

25.jpg
Straddling the old stagecoach road. My feet are in the left and right ruts or perhaps I'm about to relieve myself. :)

26.jpg
The Mary Mountain Trail (aka the Buffalo Highway)

27.jpg
The wrecking crew at the Mary Mountain Patrol Cabin

28.jpg
A tribute? I think from @Joey

I might add that the privy at this patrol cabin is top of the line. If you ever visit the cabin, you have to check out the outhouse.

After lunch, we had to backtrack a short distance to pick up the old trail to Cygnet Lakes. The first part of this abandoned trail is in pretty good condition and is an extremely pleasant walk through the woods. @Keith and I were taking GPS points of all of the trail markers that we could find along the entire length of the old trail. With the excellent help of everyone pointing out markers, I believe that between the two of us we probably recorded locations for all the markers that were visible between the lakes.

The first mile of the trail from Mary Lake is relatively easy hiking. The second mile is still rather straight forward but there is more stepping over downfall to contend with but the trail is obvious and still well marked. Between miles two and three is where the trail becomes difficult to stay on at times. At this point the old trail skirted a burn area as we made our way uphill onto the highest part of the Central Plateau. At the 2.5 mile mark the trail heads directly into full burn for a mile. Seven years ago, this section was not too bad as the downfall was less and the new growth more forgiving as we stayed on the trail. This time was much more difficult but we managed to stay on the old trail within reason. Once out of the burn, the trail is easy to follow again up until about a quarter mile from the Cygnet Lakes meadows where we ran into the last trail marker. At this point, we followed sewn logs which ended up deviating slightly from where the original trail is located on the old USGS 15 minute maps. I assume after the 1988 fires someone (Park Service?) cut the trail to the meadows south of the original route so as not to contend with the burn and to keep people from still using the now abandoned trail if hiking into Cygnet Lakes from the Cygnet Lakes Trail. Of course I could be totally wrong but it seems reasonable form what we saw on the ground.

SAM_0346.JPG
The old Plateau Trail between Mary Lake and Cygnet Lakes

29.jpg
@McGimpkins on the trail

30.jpg
Pleasant hiking

31.jpg
Starting to get a little hairy. Notice the trail marker on a tree north of @Keith

37.jpg
Getting more challenging

38.jpg
About to become unbearable! :)

32.jpg
An old trail marker (flush against the tree) and an "I" Blaze that preceded it

Cygnet_Lakes_Trail.jpg
Map of the route between the lakes. All dots on the map are recorded waypoints. The pink line at the top center of the map is the location of the original trail on the old USGS 15 minute map. as you can see the points end at the meadow just south of the pink line. The trail could not be discerned today where the pink line is located.


Once out into the meadows (marsh) that surround Cygnet Lakes, we hiked the last four miles out along the maintained Cygnet Lakes Trail back to the trailhead. While this trail winds through burn, we did get an excellent view down into the headwaters of Otter Creek along with passing a few unnamed ponds.

33.jpg
Cygnet Lakes in the distance and the marshes that surround them

34.jpg
The Cygnet Lakes Trail. Observation Peak in the distance with storm clouds moving in.

35.jpg
The headwaters of Otter Creek

36.jpg
The backcountry information sign at the Cygnet Lakes Trailhead

If you have a full day to kill in Yellowstone then this hike might be for you. The hike through Hayden Valley and up to Mary Lake is definitely a must. The portion to Cygnet Lakes should be done with at least 3 or 4 people just to make sure you are able to keep to the trail and for bear safety concerns. It is possible to skirt the completely burned area and come back to the trail where the going is easier.

Thanks to my hiking partners who made this trip possible and certainly more enjoyable.
 

Attachments

  • 21.jpg
    21.jpg
    136.1 KB · Views: 28
garbage_dump_1969-jpg.45959

The Trout Creek Garbage Dump (still active) in 1969. You can actually see the grizzly trails radiating into it as they made their way to feed on the Park refuse that was hauled there

So cool! Interesting how things have changed since then.

My grandma was telling me recently about the dump they had in West Yellowstone in the 50s. Her parents owned an inn in town, and one of the recommendations they would give to visitors would be to check out the dump to watch the bears. She said it was a popular date spot as well because you could park your car and just watch them for a long time.
 
So cool! Interesting how things have changed since then.

My grandma was telling me recently about the dump they had in West Yellowstone in the 50s. Her parents owned an inn in town, and one of the recommendations they would give to visitors would be to check out the dump to watch the bears. She said it was a popular date spot as well because you could park your car and just watch them for a long time.

@Jackson - I need to meet your grandma! You may have to set us up on a blind date. :) That is really neat. Ask her if she remembers the location of the dumpsite. I'm guessing that it was north of town? I don't know much about the old dump sites at the gateway communities of the Park other than they closed their dumpsites after the Park had closed theirs. I take it that she went their occasionally to watch the bears? Does she remember what year it closed down or was she out of West Yellowstone by then?
 
@Jackson - I need to meet your grandma! You may have to set us up on a blind date. :) That is really neat. Ask her if she remembers the location of the dumpsite. I'm guessing that it was north of town? I don't know much about the old dump sites at the gateway communities of the Park other than they closed their dumpsites after the Park had closed theirs. I take it that she went their occasionally to watch the bears? Does she remember what year it closed down or was she out of West Yellowstone by then?
Haha. I'll ask her those questions. I do know her family moved away a little after after the 1959 Earthquake, but given my grandparents' affinity for the GYE, I wouldn't be surprised if they still knew when it closed.

Another interesting anecdote is that the mothers in town had a system that when a bear walked out of the woods into town, the ones who lived closest to the edge of town where the bear was sighted would call other mothers nearby, and they would in turn call others. In a short time, every mother would get the call, and that way they could all get their kids in safely before the bear got too close to any of them.
 
Haha. I'll ask her those questions. I do know her family moved away a little after after the 1959 Earthquake, but given my grandparents' affinity for the GYE, I wouldn't be surprised if they still knew when it closed.

Another interesting anecdote is that the mothers in town had a system that when a bear walked out of the woods into town, the ones who lived closest to the edge of town where the bear was sighted would call other mothers nearby, and they would in turn call others. In a short time, every mother would get the call, and that way they could all get their kids in safely before the bear got too close to any of them.

Another great story @Jackson! The Trout Creek Dump was the last to close in the Park and I've seen two different dates for its closure: one in 1970 and the other 1971. I think West Yellowstone might have been the next year. It will be interesting to hear what your grandmother has to say. Did she ever see a bear wandering through town?

Speaking of bears, I'm starting to write up our trip report across the Mirror Plateau and down the Lamar River. We ran into more grizzlies than you could shake a stick at. Hopefully, I'll have the report up sometime this week.
 
Another great story @Jackson! The Trout Creek Dump was the last to close in the Park and I've seen two different dates for its closure: one in 1970 and the other 1971. I think West Yellowstone might have been the next year. It will be interesting to hear what your grandmother has to say. Did she ever see a bear wandering through town?

Speaking of bears, I'm starting to write up our trip report across the Mirror Plateau and down the Lamar River. We ran into more grizzlies than you could shake a stick at. Hopefully, I'll have the report up sometime this week.
I believe she saw at least a few come through there. I can check on that as well.

Really looking forward to reading that trip report. I recall reading your invite for that trip in the meetup forum and wishing I could make it!
 
Love the historical slant of the hike...wasn’t that in the vicinity of th Nez Perce kidnapping th tourists as they were making their run to Canada? There is so much to Yellerstone, so much more than meets th eye...lookin forward to th trip!

John
 
Love the historical slant of the hike...wasn’t that in the vicinity of th Nez Perce kidnapping th tourists as they were making their run to Canada? There is so much to Yellerstone, so much more than meets th eye...lookin forward to th trip!

John

The Cowan Party was abducted in the meadows along Nez Perce Creek, near tree line, just before the Mary Mountain Trail starts climbing east towards Mary Lake. There used to be a sign where the abduction took place, but I'm not sure if it is still there or not.
 
Last edited:
Sad... Being forgotten like a lot of neat historical stuff....... A hurry up world anymore
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Hayden Valley, Trout Creek, Beach Lake, and Arnica Creek Meadows. September 11, 2022. Hiking & Camping 7
scatman Trout Creek and the Headwaters of Alum Creek - September 11, 2022 Hiking & Camping 17
Honk34 Day Trip WY Golden Trout Hiking & Camping 1
Wanderlust073 Trout and 14ers Meet Up (Members Only) 0
Stephanie B Fishing (for Trout) and Hunting (for Rock Art) In and Near Capitol Reef National Park Hiking & Camping 7
OldBill Am I wasting my time fishing for Wind River golden trout mid-September? Trip Planning 12
J ISO Tiger Trout in the Uintas Backpacking 8
Yellowstone 1 Trout Lake, Yellowstone Trip Planning 0
M trout Magic On The Water 13
Nick How to catch Golden Trout General Discussion 8
uintahiker Backpacking for Golden Trout in Wyoming Backpacking 11
rinats Canyonlands/Needles: Salt Creek to Chesler Park Trip Planning 6
shredhiker Slough Creek mid June? Trip Planning 11
Spud Salt Creek Canyon question Trip Planning 11
BobFink Mirror Plateau via Pelican Valley and Pelican Creek, July / August 2023 Backpacking 12
Janice Such a GRAND Canyon - Deer Creek / Tapeats / Thunder River Backpacking 21
Jackson Little Rock Creek Backpacking 5
scatman Yellowstone's Thorofare, Headwaters of Thorofare Creek, Majo Pass, Younts Peak, Bob's Canyon, and Cub Creek - August 9, 2023 - Days 7 through 10 Backpacking 34
scatman Yellowstone's Thorofare, Headwaters of Thorofare Creek, Majo Pass, Younts Peak, Bob's Canyon, and Cub Creek - August 9, 2023 - Days 1 through 6 Backpacking 56
J South Crandall Creek and the Hoodoos Wyoming and Yellowstone? Trip Planning 3
CodyL Maple Creek or Duck Creek Drainages-YNP Trip Planning 0
J Pacific Creek or North Buffalo Fork? Teton Wilderness, Thorofare ,etc. Trip Planning 10
I Rescue Creek - Yellowstone National Park - June 3, 2023 Backpacking 15
Dreamer Slough Creek - YNP - 6/5-7/23 Backpacking 3
shredhiker Blacktail Creek June 2023 Backpacking 4
Dreamer Rescue Creek -YNP - 6/3-5/23 Backpacking 3
shredhiker Slough Creek May 2023 Backpacking 11
scatman Rescue Creek - Yellowstone National Park - June 3, 2023 Backpacking 56
Gretchen Millward Trachyte Creek via Woodruff Canyon, April 2023 Backpacking 9
I Slough Creek - Yellowstone June 5 & 6 Meet Up (Members Only) 19
scatman City Creek Loop - April 23, 2023 Hiking & Camping 8
F Thorofare/South Boundary/Wolverine Creek Trip Planning 2
scatman Rescue Creek - Yellowstone National Park Meet Up (Members Only) 19
Janice When might road to Salt Creek TH be ok? Trip Planning 23
BobFink Yellowstone South Entrance to Fox Creek via Basin Creek Cutoff - Labor Day 2022 Trip Reports 4
Janice Professor Creek / Mary Jane Canyon - mid April? Trip Planning 0
scatman North Ridge of City Creek Canyon - February 4, 2023 Hiking & Camping 17
MikeP Exploring/Calf Creek Trip Planning 28
scatman South Ridge of City Creek Canyon - January 28, 2023 Hiking & Camping 4
travel2walk Gros Ventre Wilderness: Granite Creek, West Fork Crystal Creek, Crystal Creek, & Swift Creek - June 2021 Backpacking 8
slieb Lower Muddy Creek in Winter? Trip Planning 7
scatman A Yellowstone Love Story (Bog Creek Euphoria) - September 12, 2022 Backpacking 28
NorthwestWanderer Backpacking Grand Teton National Park : Fossil Pass,Fox Creek Pass,Indian Lake,Alaska Basin,Hurricane Pass,Ice Floe Lake,& Snowdrift Lake Backpacking 19
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Wrangler Lake, Bog Creek, Joseph's Coat Springs, Broad Creek, Wapiti Lake, Hot Springs Basin, and Pelican Valley. The Second Half. Backpacking 15
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Wrangler Lake, Bog Creek, Joseph's Coat Springs, Broad Creek, Wapiti Lake, Hot Springs Basin, and Pelican Valley. Part One of Two. Backpacking 61
scatman Pacific Creek, Moss Lake and Gravel Lake - Teton Wilderness - October 7, 2022 Backpacking 32
R Wind River Range: Green River Lakes/Clarks Trail/Porcupine Creek Trail Trip Planning 3
Janice Salt Creek plus... Trip Planning 17
Gretchen Millward Trachyte Creek, April – May 2022 Backpacking 3
XID_AZ Kanab Creek Wilderness - Sowats Canyon - Mountain Sheep Spring Trip Planning 6

Similar threads

Back
Top