Silver Star Mt.

ram

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Feb 15, 2013
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With the Inspiration Traverse under our belts, Jenny and I were joined by Giles Wallace. Giles, with a wicked sense of humor, strong skills and a stronger back, I know we were thrilled to be carrying lighter loads and having his company. Our plan was to climb Mt. Shuksan via the Sulfide Glacier. In the Cascades, the weather dictates. So with a marginal forecast for our summit day, we rebooted the plan, drove east, into the rain shadow and put an overnight to Silver Star Mt., on the dance card.

Silver Star, at nearly 9,000 feet, the the tallest peak in the Washington Pass area. Hidden from view, is its NE side glacier. With a 6,000 feet of ascent, it could be done in a day. But with the passing of years, I have found the ascetic of a high camp and a bit of time to spend there, is reason enough for going and perhaps better than summits.

Starting up, in the afternoon, with temperatures in the low 90's and the sun at our backs, we were soon drenched in sweat. It is not really a trail. More of a small herd path that climbs steeply up the loose soil, of a very friable granite. Steep ridges and gullies, that one losses a step, for every two taken, mark the route. Patience and rhythm of motion required. Over the next 5 hours, we gained over 4,000 feet in altitude, landing at Burgundy Col in the early evening. It is a dry camp, in a steep notch, that funnels the wind and has spectacular views. We got up there in enough time to be warmed by low angle sun, as the breeze dried our sweat soak bodies. We set up the tarp (megamid), cooked dinner and enjoyed the ambiance.

After 400 vertical feet of talus, the log crossing


Jenny pacing up the steep hill


2/3's of the way up, it flattens and a 10 minute walk leads to water, which we carried up to camp, 1,700 feet higher


Black Peak comes in view. We had climbed the right ridge, quite technical, together several years before


We arrive in the Col


Set up the tarp


Camp...Burgundy Spire above


Dinner prep


Glowing




A room with a view






Liberty Bell on the right and the Early Winter Spires dead center


Sighting our first fire of the season. In days, the whole area would be impacted by smoke


Good night


Up the next day, we lounge a bit. The route starts with 200 feet of steep snow which must be descended. Letting the sun soften it up, just a tad. This is followed by a traverse over to the main glacier. It is not heavily cravassed, but it was hard and steep. At the top of the ice, a 500 foot high scramble at 4th class takes one to the summit. After a long stay on top, we descend back to camp, with the climb up, back into camp and another decision

Waking up to these views. Dome Peak the snowy one in the distance


Famous and hard rock routes abound on the towers


The view from our bags, out the east side. Top of the glacier right there


Mt. Logan


Jenny and I rappel off of Giles, down the steep snow


Then Giles plunge steps down


Traversing to the main glacier. Jenny, with our tracks behind her


The Wine Spires above l to r...Chablis, Pernod, Chianti, Burgundy






Low on water, we moat dive


Jenny kicking steps




The dangerous transition from snow to rock


Over the small peak, into the notch then up. Nearing the top


More up




Scramble


Summit


Down we go






Back to the glacier


Nearly down


Back up to the col




Into camp


Back in camp, it was only 3:30 PM. Plenty of time to pack up and head down. We were out of water. But, but, but is was wonderful up there. Do we REALLY want to go down!! I tink NOT!! Melting snow is a pain, but a small price to pay for another night up in heaven. We commit to staying. The next AM, we pack up and deal thousands of feet of steep, loose gravel, over hard pan, quadriceps screaming the whole way.

With the weather clearing, we head west, to hook up with new partners.

Should I stay or should I go....STAY


Snow to melt


Tedious, but worth it


Light show and then to bed




Sunrise the next morning




Breakfast




Packed up








Thanks to my partners


 
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Shirt357

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Some seriously wonderful views... Thanks for sharing the Cascades with us.
 
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Artemus

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Very nice again. I love that area. Liberty Bell is a classic!
 
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Miya

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That all looked so INTENSE to me! Wonderful views! What a fun share. Really happy to see it. :)
 
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ram

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Silver Star is a proud summit. Been to that pass a couple times doing various routes on Burgundy.
A question from Rockskipper about the temps? It was warm out of the wind. Well above freezing, but it is quite variable there.

Attention all.....Kullaberg climbing Burgundy Spire from ANY route is an impressive feat, let alone several different routes. This peak is one of the 2 hardest peaks to climb, by it's easiest route (Noonsack Tower is the other), in all of the North Cascades. Impressive!!

I have been dragged up it twice, the last time in 2012 by my son Aaron. It's easiest route is 5.8, with 3 of the 5 pitches 5.8.

I will just add a link, so you all can see the easiest route up. Fun facts. I fell off that log in the first picture, Landed flat and was totally soaked (6AM).
Kullaberg, you see the folks top of Pisano Pinnacle (picture 14)???
What fun!!


https://photos.app.goo.gl/orjM7GY3n93EFzz37
 
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Artemus

I walk
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Jun 25, 2012
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A question from Rockskipper about the temps? It was warm out of the wind. Well above freezing, but it is quite variable there.

Attention all.....Kullberg climbing Burgundy Spire from ANY route is an impressive feat, let alone several different routes. This peak is one of the 2 hardest peaks to climb, by it's easiest route (Noonsack Tower is the other), in all of the North Cascades. Impressive!!

I have been dragged up it twice, the last time in 2012 by my son Aaron. It's easiest route is 5.8, with 3 of the 5 pitches 5.8.

I will just add a link, so you all can see the easiest route up. Fun facts. I fell off that log in the first picture, Landed flat and was totally soaked (6AM).
Kullaberg, you see the folks top of Pisano Pinnacle (picture 14)???
What fun!!


https://photos.app.goo.gl/orjM7GY3n93EFzz37
Well many of us perk right up when you OR @Kullaberg63 post something up. As the two resident hard men at BCP I find inspiration in following along in your guys TR"s. Sometimes I even get to follow in Jan's actual footprints. There are bunch of other hard men and women here too but you going vertical and him going by himself with his raft on his back riding on his bike to get to the actual "climb"/backcountry/backpack keep me coming back. We should get him to recount some of his Yosemite adventures sometime....

BTW went up to the base of the Beckey route on Liberty Bell trying to talk myself into soloing it one day when my one-and-only charge by a momma mountain goat convinced me otherwise. I love those towers! Always have.
 
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Kullaberg63

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Mar 6, 2014
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A question from Rockskipper about the temps? It was warm out of the wind. Well above freezing, but it is quite variable there.

Attention all.....Kullberg climbing Burgundy Spire from ANY route is an impressive feat, let alone several different routes. This peak is one of the 2 hardest peaks to climb, by it's easiest route (Noonsack Tower is the other), in all of the North Cascades. Impressive!!

I have been dragged up it twice, the last time in 2012 by my son Aaron. It's easiest route is 5.8, with 3 of the 5 pitches 5.8.

I will just add a link, so you all can see the easiest route up. Fun facts. I fell off that log in the first picture, Landed flat and was totally soaked (6AM).
Kullaberg, you see the folks top of Pisano Pinnacle (picture 14)???
What fun!!


https://photos.app.goo.gl/orjM7GY3n93EFzz37
Thanks. The routes we did was the 5.8 standard route and Paisano Pinnacle. Both classics. The uber-classic, however, would be both in a day, as one starts where the other ends. A dozen or so pitches, none too hard, nothing scary, all solid rock. Could be Wa Pass' best route.
 
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