ram
Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2013
- Messages
- 116
With the Inspiration Traverse under our belts, Jenny and I were joined by Giles Wallace. Giles, with a wicked sense of humor, strong skills and a stronger back, I know we were thrilled to be carrying lighter loads and having his company. Our plan was to climb Mt. Shuksan via the Sulfide Glacier. In the Cascades, the weather dictates. So with a marginal forecast for our summit day, we rebooted the plan, drove east, into the rain shadow and put an overnight to Silver Star Mt., on the dance card.
Silver Star, at nearly 9,000 feet, the the tallest peak in the Washington Pass area. Hidden from view, is its NE side glacier. With a 6,000 feet of ascent, it could be done in a day. But with the passing of years, I have found the ascetic of a high camp and a bit of time to spend there, is reason enough for going and perhaps better than summits.
Starting up, in the afternoon, with temperatures in the low 90's and the sun at our backs, we were soon drenched in sweat. It is not really a trail. More of a small herd path that climbs steeply up the loose soil, of a very friable granite. Steep ridges and gullies, that one losses a step, for every two taken, mark the route. Patience and rhythm of motion required. Over the next 5 hours, we gained over 4,000 feet in altitude, landing at Burgundy Col in the early evening. It is a dry camp, in a steep notch, that funnels the wind and has spectacular views. We got up there in enough time to be warmed by low angle sun, as the breeze dried our sweat soak bodies. We set up the tarp (megamid), cooked dinner and enjoyed the ambiance.
After 400 vertical feet of talus, the log crossing
Jenny pacing up the steep hill
2/3's of the way up, it flattens and a 10 minute walk leads to water, which we carried up to camp, 1,700 feet higher
Black Peak comes in view. We had climbed the right ridge, quite technical, together several years before
We arrive in the Col
Set up the tarp
Camp...Burgundy Spire above
Dinner prep
Glowing
A room with a view
Liberty Bell on the right and the Early Winter Spires dead center
Sighting our first fire of the season. In days, the whole area would be impacted by smoke
Good night
Up the next day, we lounge a bit. The route starts with 200 feet of steep snow which must be descended. Letting the sun soften it up, just a tad. This is followed by a traverse over to the main glacier. It is not heavily cravassed, but it was hard and steep. At the top of the ice, a 500 foot high scramble at 4th class takes one to the summit. After a long stay on top, we descend back to camp, with the climb up, back into camp and another decision
Waking up to these views. Dome Peak the snowy one in the distance
Famous and hard rock routes abound on the towers
The view from our bags, out the east side. Top of the glacier right there
Mt. Logan
Jenny and I rappel off of Giles, down the steep snow
Then Giles plunge steps down
Traversing to the main glacier. Jenny, with our tracks behind her
The Wine Spires above l to r...Chablis, Pernod, Chianti, Burgundy
Low on water, we moat dive
Jenny kicking steps
The dangerous transition from snow to rock
Over the small peak, into the notch then up. Nearing the top
More up
Scramble
Summit
Down we go
Back to the glacier
Nearly down
Back up to the col
Into camp
Back in camp, it was only 3:30 PM. Plenty of time to pack up and head down. We were out of water. But, but, but is was wonderful up there. Do we REALLY want to go down!! I tink NOT!! Melting snow is a pain, but a small price to pay for another night up in heaven. We commit to staying. The next AM, we pack up and deal thousands of feet of steep, loose gravel, over hard pan, quadriceps screaming the whole way.
With the weather clearing, we head west, to hook up with new partners.
Should I stay or should I go....STAY
Snow to melt
Tedious, but worth it
Light show and then to bed
Sunrise the next morning
Breakfast
Packed up
Thanks to my partners
Silver Star, at nearly 9,000 feet, the the tallest peak in the Washington Pass area. Hidden from view, is its NE side glacier. With a 6,000 feet of ascent, it could be done in a day. But with the passing of years, I have found the ascetic of a high camp and a bit of time to spend there, is reason enough for going and perhaps better than summits.
Starting up, in the afternoon, with temperatures in the low 90's and the sun at our backs, we were soon drenched in sweat. It is not really a trail. More of a small herd path that climbs steeply up the loose soil, of a very friable granite. Steep ridges and gullies, that one losses a step, for every two taken, mark the route. Patience and rhythm of motion required. Over the next 5 hours, we gained over 4,000 feet in altitude, landing at Burgundy Col in the early evening. It is a dry camp, in a steep notch, that funnels the wind and has spectacular views. We got up there in enough time to be warmed by low angle sun, as the breeze dried our sweat soak bodies. We set up the tarp (megamid), cooked dinner and enjoyed the ambiance.
After 400 vertical feet of talus, the log crossing
Jenny pacing up the steep hill
2/3's of the way up, it flattens and a 10 minute walk leads to water, which we carried up to camp, 1,700 feet higher
Black Peak comes in view. We had climbed the right ridge, quite technical, together several years before
We arrive in the Col
Set up the tarp
Camp...Burgundy Spire above
Dinner prep
Glowing
A room with a view
Liberty Bell on the right and the Early Winter Spires dead center
Sighting our first fire of the season. In days, the whole area would be impacted by smoke
Good night
Up the next day, we lounge a bit. The route starts with 200 feet of steep snow which must be descended. Letting the sun soften it up, just a tad. This is followed by a traverse over to the main glacier. It is not heavily cravassed, but it was hard and steep. At the top of the ice, a 500 foot high scramble at 4th class takes one to the summit. After a long stay on top, we descend back to camp, with the climb up, back into camp and another decision
Waking up to these views. Dome Peak the snowy one in the distance
Famous and hard rock routes abound on the towers
The view from our bags, out the east side. Top of the glacier right there
Mt. Logan
Jenny and I rappel off of Giles, down the steep snow
Then Giles plunge steps down
Traversing to the main glacier. Jenny, with our tracks behind her
The Wine Spires above l to r...Chablis, Pernod, Chianti, Burgundy
Low on water, we moat dive
Jenny kicking steps
The dangerous transition from snow to rock
Over the small peak, into the notch then up. Nearing the top
More up
Scramble
Summit
Down we go
Back to the glacier
Nearly down
Back up to the col
Into camp
Back in camp, it was only 3:30 PM. Plenty of time to pack up and head down. We were out of water. But, but, but is was wonderful up there. Do we REALLY want to go down!! I tink NOT!! Melting snow is a pain, but a small price to pay for another night up in heaven. We commit to staying. The next AM, we pack up and deal thousands of feet of steep, loose gravel, over hard pan, quadriceps screaming the whole way.
With the weather clearing, we head west, to hook up with new partners.
Should I stay or should I go....STAY
Snow to melt
Tedious, but worth it
Light show and then to bed
Sunrise the next morning
Breakfast
Packed up
Thanks to my partners
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