Hiking to the Top of the Henry's (Mount Ellen) August 2022

ANelson

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While traveling through southern Utah, I had the Henry Mountains marked off on my Google maps as a "want to go" location. I had read about the mountain range in a Backcountry Journal issue, and I wanted to explore the area. I read it was known for it's mule deer, as well as being one of the very last places to be explored in the lower 48. Everyone goes to southern Utah for the big 5 national parks, rightfully so, but who doesn't love some adventure off the beaten path.

I found info on a BLM front country campground, and headed out with intentions of hiking in the morning.

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The road leading into the Henry's. It was as if we were driving into the lair of a super villain of sorts. Truly beautiful seeing the mountains create their own weather in the middle of the desert.

After a wild, legitimately scary ride up the access road, through a torrential downpour, we made it to Lonesome Beaver Campground. One thing of note, if anyone has any intentions of getting here, a compact car will not get the job done.

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We were the only people here all night. Camping was free, and there was water, as well as a clean bathroom/pit toilet.

After a cup of Morning Thunder we got in the truck and headed to the trailhead, 10 minutes away.

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The road to the trailhead was steep, but not overly rutted.

Along the way, I was reminded why this range is a once in a lifetime mule deer draw.
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We were the only car at the trailhead(which can accommodate ~4 cars). When we reached the TH, we were pretty disappointed though. We were covered in clouds in every direction. I was debating whether it was worth the 6 mile hike, in hopes that the clouds would blow out or burn off. While mulling around, a big wind came through and gave us a glimpse of the hike, and we decided it was worth it.

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Socked in by clouds

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The preview, that gave us the motivation to proceed.

The hike is essentially a big long ridge, with some easy scrambles. I can only imagine what this is like in clear conditions.

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The first of many ups & downs just like this.

The elevation gain isn't exhausting. All told it's only about 2000 ft. The exhausting aspect is mental. Making sure not to twist an ankle when every rock is loose. Things are very slow going, especially for two flatlanders.

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Breaks in the clouds gave us much appreciated visual relief from endless rocks and gray skies.

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There is quite a bit of fun & mystery that come with hiking into a sort of abyss. Every new ridge seemed to be the end. Only to realize that there was another half mile. Then another half mile. Then another.

One fun little tidbit. While traveling over a saddle, we passed an area filled with what I thought was bison crap. But I quickly dismissed it for horse crap, because of course there are no bison here. It had to be a guide or something, out scouting on horseback. Fast forward to when I got cell phone service again, I Googled "large mammals in the Henry Mountains", lo and behold, the Henry's have an isolated population of bison! In fact, it's said to be one of the most genetically pure herds left in America. Unfortunately I didn't think to take a picture of the poop, but I laugh at the idea of walking through the clouds and seeing a bison standing on the mountain. I would have thought I was tripping out.

We confirmed on the map that the final climb was the biggest hill yet, which was the next one in front of us. It was a series of quick, steep switchbacks, that took a little bit of searching to find. But as we got to the summit, almost as an act of divine intervention, the clouds dissipated, and we had sweeping views of the Henry's & southern Utah desert alike.

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The final ascent to the summit


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Two happy folks.

After being afforded some time at the top with views, the clouds came back to usher us away and back to the trailhead.

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About 1.5 miles from the TH, the thunder started. Then the hail. By far my biggest fear on any hike is lightning. And this was nothing but exposed ridges with little to no trees. So instead of climbing down the valley, we made the decision to beat feet and make double time back to the car, at the risk of slipping on the now wet rocks. These decisions are always tough for me when it comes to thunderstorms. Had we been further from the TH, I probably would have climbed down below treeline. It wasn't yet the afternoon, but the storm blew in anyway. Just bad luck.
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Unfortunate weather on the way back.

Either way, we got back safely, and we can say this was the most memorable hike we had in Utah. A hike we were ready to bail on, had a wind not given us a preview a few hours earlier.

We also got to see the same herd of mule deer bucks on the drive out. They were no more than 50 yards from where we had left them.

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Mount Ellen in the far distance on the right hand side.

The Henry's were rugged, wild and desolate. The night prior, a large group of friendly people in dune buggies drove by. Besides that, we did not see a single person in our two days here. I chose this as my first trip report(albeit 7 months old), because this was such a special place for my fiancé & I. I would love to explore this area in depth, and get to lay my eyes on some of those bison!
 
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Great trip report! Really enjoyed it. Thanks for the inspiration as I often drive past this area heading to other trips. McMillan Springs is another nice campground, though tis used more by hunters in the fall. Haven't been there since I was a kid. I really liked the cloud pics from the ridge. Nothing worse than trying to outrun an incoming storm on bad footing! Glad you made it back safely!
 
Nice trip, nice deer. Never got there. Wanted to hunt that unit, 19 years of preference points and couldnt draw. Now moved out of state. Those deer probably wont be there in October. As big as Bison are they hide good on that range.
 
Welcome and nice TR :). There’s a ton of snow on the Henry’s now.

Yes, there are Bisons on the Henry’s. They migrate to lower elevations when it gets colder late fall. One late fall evening we bumped into lost hunters, who had a tag for Bison hunting. Think they said about 20 tags are available every year. They were looking for a specific side road off Notom Bullfrog road.
 
Nice trip report, brings back memories of an eventful day in the Henry's some 20 y ago.
There is indeed a substantial herd of bisons living there!

We stayed on a primitive campground along the Nortom Road, waked up early, it was a nice and sunny day, early June.

Our plan was to cross over the Henry Mountains from there. No GPS at that time, only a Trails illustrated Map.
No digital pictures either, the color slides are still somewhere in a box on the attic.

We passed trough the desert, gradually drove up the mountain and were on a narrow road with trees on both sides.
Then suddenly, about 20 m/yards in front of us, some big darkish animals came out of the trees and flashed across the road.
We stopped, not yet realising what we just had seen, and moved on immediately after.

Then, a moment later, suddenly a deafening loud noise, like "kedang, kedang, kedang, ....".
Just behind our car a full herd of bisons rushed across the road, than stopped on a pasture a little bit further below.
Guess it must have been some 50 animals, bulls, females and several calfs.

Our Trails Illustrated map didn't show several of the roads we got on higher up, but after a bit of trial and error we ran into a sign that pointed direction Bull Creek Pass.
At the top the narrow, muddy road was still half covered with a layer of melting snow, we just could get past that spot.
Downhill on the other side we saw an old cabin and some mining structures before reaching Little Egypt Geologic Site.
It was a memorable and exiting adventure!

At the BLM station in Hanksville the Rangers told that it was very unique to come across that bison herd.
We bought a better BLM map of the area as, on comparison, it turned out that our TI-map really sucked.
 
Nice trip report, brings back memories of an eventful day in the Henry's some 20 y ago.
There is indeed a substantial herd of bisons living there!

We stayed on a primitive campground along the Nortom Road, waked up early, it was a nice and sunny day, early June.

Our plan was to cross over the Henry Mountains from there. No GPS at that time, only a Trails illustrated Map.
No digital pictures either, the color slides are still somewhere in a box on the attic.

We passed trough the desert, gradually drove up the mountain and were on a narrow road with trees on both sides.
Then suddenly, about 20 m/yards in front of us, some big darkish animals came out of the trees and flashed across the road.
We stopped, not yet realising what we just had seen, and moved on immediately after.

Then, a moment later, suddenly a deafening loud noise, like "kedang, kedang, kedang, ....".
Just behind our car a full herd of bisons rushed across the road, than stopped on a pasture a little bit further below.
Guess it must have been some 50 animals, bulls, females and several calfs.

Our Trails Illustrated map didn't show several of the roads we got on higher up, but after a bit of trial and error we ran into a sign that pointed direction Bull Creek Pass.
At the top the narrow, muddy road was still half covered with a layer of melting snow, we just could get past that spot.
Downhill on the other side we saw an old cabin and some mining structures before reaching Little Egypt Geologic Site.
It was a memorable and exiting adventure!

At the BLM station in Hanksville the Rangers told that it was very unique to come across that bison herd.
We bought a better BLM map of the area as, on comparison, it turned out that our TI-map really sucked.
I always love hearing stories from decades ago, before all of the gadgets were so readily available. Always having a GPS unit is something that I do not take for granted, it's a lifesaver. But at the same time, the thrill and sense of adventure that you, and everyone else had to feel back then had to be incredible.
 
Yes... Was very different. Biggest was there were not many trails. You could go a entire week and not see anyone or footprints but your own...
 
Yes... Was very different. Biggest was there were not many trails. You could go a entire week and not see anyone or footprints but your own...
I'm constantly amazed by the trail systems out west. If things fall into place after my travels this year, and I find a home near the mountains, I would love to volunteer on a trail crew.
 
Thanks for posting, I need to stop and hit your route the next time I am the neighborhood instead of driving by the Henry's.
 
I have always wondered what it looks like up there.
Nice report.
 
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