What to do around Springdale, UT

Chuck the Mauler

Formally known as "kcwins"
Joined
Aug 20, 2014
Messages
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Looking for a little help for my brother who'll be spending some time in and around Utah in early June. From Moab they are heading to Springdale for 2 nights. They had hoped to get permits for Angles Landing but didn't "win" the lottery. Now he's looking for suggestions in the area. I've only been to Zion once, so I'm not much help. I suggested Buckskin Gulch or try to get a permit in Kanab for "The Wave". But that's almost a 2 hour drive. Other than that, I've got nothing. It doesn't have to be hikes. It could be just cool landscape.
What do you guys got for me to pass along?
 
if I were you I'd probably just spend some time looking through Bo and Tanya's web site with your brother, it's an excellent resource for the broader Zion area. the main Zion canyon is low and June is warm so you probably want to focus on stuff that's on the higher side.

 
I believe they have day-before lotteries for Angel's Landing, so they should try for that. Another hike I really like in Zion is to Cable Mountain -- I imagine you should still be able to get there from the Ponderosa Ranch Resort trailhead at the end of W Ponderosa Pne St. Deertrap Mountain is neat too. I believe it's easier to get backcountry camping permits for the east rim, so they may be able to get a permit for a night on Cable Mountain even if they can't get the Angel's Landing day-before lottery. May also want to consider the Subway from the bottom up, but the temperatures may not be favorable for that. The Subway is worth trying to do top down but you need some rope skill and a permit, although I think there's a 2-day-before permit lottery for that if they have the skills and canyoneering/routefinding experience to do that (water may be too high though). Driving around Kolob Terrace Rd and up to Kolob Reservoir can be fun but there may still be snow up there then. The narrows from the bottom up might be cool for a mile or two, but again it might be too cold or the water might be too high.

Outside of Zion proper, the old ghost town of Grafton is kind of neat to check out for an hour or two. Maybe check out tubing on the Virgin River. If they have a decent vehicle (at least high clearance, but 4wd wouldn't hurt -- and make sure you have good brakes!!) they could drive up Smithsonian Butte Rd out of Rockville (Bridge Rd south then right on 250 S then left on Smithsonian Butte Rd (straight instead of left leads to Grafton)). That's a pretty fun drive and there's a good amount of BLM land for free camping and exploring up there. If you get all the way down to Apple Valley on the other side, there's a cool box canyon around 37.082645, -113.059607 and if you drive around to the south side of Canaan Mountain there are scrabbly routes to get up on top. I've heard there are petroglyphs or pictographs back there someplace in some of the dry washes but I never found them. also don't stick your arms in any holes or you might get bit by a mad rodent carrying the plague. Gotta be careful with washed out roads etc back there too, and don't get your truck stuck. It's an expensive tow! :)

If they're interested, they could drive a little further south to Colorado City. Heavy mormon presence and used to be and may still be a hotspot for polygamy. Just kind of a weird, interesting town -- almost feels like a living ghost town. But don't be surprised if you don't feel very welcome as an outsider! There are a couple trailheads northwest of Hildale along Water Canyon Rd. I like exploring around Smithsonian Butte because of all the BLM land and free camping, not so many crazy crowds. Just keep an eye out for no trespassing signs.

Maybe check out some horseback trail riding services, maybe Zion Mountain Trail Rides on the east end of the park past Checkerboard mesa. There are some cool trails and things to check out along SR 9 / Zion Park Blvd on the east side of the park -- like Many Pools, Keyhole Canyon, East Rim Trailhead. Fat Mans Misery and some other technical canyoneering is back there. I think you need permits for those now, though, and canyoneering gear (harnesses, ropes, maybe wetsuits, etc. etc.) if you go in very deep on any of those trails/routes.

Further out, Cedar Breaks is a cool spot to check out, and Dixie National Forest is a pretty neat area to explore. Bower's Cave, Mammoth Cave. Strawberry Point. Bryce Canyon and Red Canyon aren't too far away. Further out are Escalante, Hole in the Rock Trail down to Spooky and Peekaboo Gulch (not sure if they require permits now? I think you at least need permits to camp around there). Could also head down to Paria (Paria Movie Rd), check out the Cockscomb on Cottonwood Canyon Rd (careful, extremely impassible after rain but such a beautiful drive), and maybe Cottonwood Narrows. Kodachrome state park is up there near Henrieville but they don't accept the National Parks pass so they'll likely have to pay a fee to get in there. Maybe head south from 89 on "The Cockscomb" road at House Rock Valley Junction and explore Upper Buckskin Gulch (as you noted) or Wire Pass or South Coyote Buttes, etc. I think a lot of that requires permits nowadays though. The Wave is in there via the Wire Pass trailhead as you mentioned, but that definitely requires a permit. I'm not sure if that one is a daily lottery or what but everyone should get in there at least once to see it for themselves.

There's so much to do out that way.. just depends on their interests, skills, and gear.
 
Last edited:
Colorado city residents were an offshoot of the LDS church, not affiliated with the mainstream.
 
I believe they have day-before lotteries for Angel's Landing, so they should try for that. Another hike I really like in Zion is to Cable Mountain -- I imagine you should still be able to get there from the Ponderosa Ranch Resort trailhead at the end of W Ponderosa Pne St. Deertrap Mountain is neat too. I believe it's easier to get backcountry camping permits for the east rim, so they may be able to get a permit for a night on Cable Mountain even if they can't get the Angel's Landing day-before lottery. May also want to consider the Subway from the bottom up, but the temperatures may not be favorable for that. The Subway is worth trying to do top down but you need some rope skill and a permit, although I think there's a 2-day-before permit lottery for that if they have the skills and canyoneering/routefinding experience to do that (water may be too high though). Driving around Kolob Terrace Rd and up to Kolob Reservoir can be fun but there may still be snow up there then. The narrows from the bottom up might be cool for a mile or two, but again it might be too cold or the water might be too high.

Outside of Zion proper, the old ghost town of Grafton is kind of neat to check out for an hour or two. Maybe check out tubing on the Virgin River. If they have a decent vehicle (at least high clearance, but 4wd wouldn't hurt -- and make sure you have good brakes!!) they could drive up Smithsonian Butte Rd out of Rockville (Bridge Rd south then right on 250 S then left on Smithsonian Butte Rd (straight instead of left leads to Grafton)). That's a pretty fun drive and there's a good amount of BLM land for free camping and exploring up there. If you get all the way down to Apple Valley on the other side, there's a cool box canyon around 37.082645, -113.059607 and if you drive around to the south side of Canaan Mountain there are scrabbly routes to get up on top. I've heard there are petroglyphs or pictographs back there someplace in some of the dry washes but I never found them. also don't stick your arms in any holes or you might get bit by a mad rodent carrying the plague. Gotta be careful with washed out roads etc back there too, and don't get your truck stuck. It's an expensive tow! :)

If they're interested, they could drive a little further south to Colorado City. Heavy mormon presence and used to be and may still be a hotspot for polygamy. Just kind of a weird, interesting town -- almost feels like a living ghost town. But don't be surprised if you don't feel very welcome as an outsider! There are a couple trailheads northwest of Hildale along Water Canyon Rd. I like exploring around Smithsonian Butte because of all the BLM land and free camping, not so many crazy crowds. Just keep an eye out for no trespassing signs.

Maybe check out some horseback trail riding services, maybe Zion Mountain Trail Rides on the east end of the park past Checkerboard mesa. There are some cool trails and things to check out along SR 9 / Zion Park Blvd on the east side of the park -- like Many Pools, Keyhole Canyon, East Rim Trailhead. Fat Mans Misery and some other technical canyoneering is back there. I think you need permits for those now, though, and canyoneering gear (harnesses, ropes, maybe wetsuits, etc. etc.) if you go in very deep on any of those trails/routes.

Further out, Cedar Breaks is a cool spot to check out, and Dixie National Forest is a pretty neat area to explore. Bower's Cave, Mammoth Cave. Strawberry Point. Bryce Canyon and Red Canyon aren't too far away. Further out are Escalante, Hole in the Rock Trail down to Spooky and Peekaboo Gulch (not sure if they require permits now? I think you at least need permits to camp around there). Could also head down to Paria (Paria Movie Rd), check out the Cockscomb on Cottonwood Canyon Rd (careful, extremely impassible after rain but such a beautiful drive), and maybe Cottonwood Narrows. Kodachrome state park is up there near Henrieville but they don't accept the National Parks pass so they'll likely have to pay a fee to get in there. Maybe head south from 89 on "The Cockscomb" road at House Rock Valley Junction and explore Upper Buckskin Gulch (as you noted) or Wire Pass or South Coyote Buttes, etc. I think a lot of that requires permits nowadays though. The Wave is in there via the Wire Pass trailhead as you mentioned, but that definitely requires a permit. I'm not sure if that one is a daily lottery or what but everyone should get in there at least once to see it for themselves.

There's so much to do out that way.. just depends on their interests, skills, and gear.
This is fantastic! Thanks for taking the time to send me this. I will report back and let everyone know how it all panned out. I know they'd really like to hike Angels Landing. And, I'm not sure how the permit system works for the narrows. I'll dig a little deeper for them on that.
 
The hard core polygamists left CO City/Hildale (a.k.a. Short Creek) after Warren Jeffs went to jail. The town culture has changed dramatically, and there are now businesses catering to tourists. Their huge, newish grocery store is the go-to place for liquor and wine.
 
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