Southern Sierra High Route August 2024

Kullaberg63

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Not to be confused with Roper’s classic Sierra High Route, the shorter SoSHR explores challenging terrain parallel to the John Muir Trail from Bishop Pass to an exit south of Mt Whitney

This stretch of the Sierra Crest is the highest and most inaccessibly rugged of the range. 13 of California’s 15 unofficial peaks over 14k’ lies along this route

The SoSHR is 90 miles long with 35k’ feet of gain and took my son and I ten days including climbing Whitney, Langley and attempting Russell, three of the 14ers. I’m in my sixties and felt this to be a reasonable time frame without getting too beat up

We skipped resupplying, but to keep our starting pack weight around thirty pounds with 10 days of food we carefully evaluated all the gear. The nights in the Sierra in August are warm and the days downright hot, even at 13000’, plus summer storms are rare. Snow travel was not an issue this season, yet water is abundant from hundreds of alpine lakes. All this helped trimming the gear to a bare minimum

Being entirely in Kings-Sequoia National Parks sadly meant leaving Skotti Dog behind. But I knew the difficulty of this route would not be dog friendly at all, plus it saved me from carrying an additional 5-6 lbs of dog food

Map: Click here to view on CalTopo
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We started on the Bishop Pass trail, an important Sierra Crest crossing. It’s a quota permit entry that takes impeccable timing and swift keyboard strokes to secure

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Battling appetite loss and nausea at the 12000’ altitude of camp one

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Classic Sierra off trail travel characterized the terrain around the three passes of early day two: Thunderbolt, Potluck and Cirque. After lunch we merged with the JMT for an afternoon crossing of Mather Pass.

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Starting to adjust to the altitude; evening day two

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Morning day three in exquisite Upper Basin

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Day 4 had the mental crux of the entire route: the Baxter Traverse. From Sawmill Pass to finally arriving at the massive lake near the extinct Baxter Pass trail were 5 hours of steep, shifting microwave sized talus mixed with a few very exposed blocky climbs, all demanding constant focus.

Halfway thru, on the summit plateau of Baxter Peak at 13200’ we spotted a herd of 20-25 California Bighorn Sheep.

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Fixing blown out heel cups after the 2000’ talus gully descent off Baxter which we stand at the top of in the second image above

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Clarence King from our camp in Sixty Lakes Basin, which we traversed in full as an alternate to neighboring Rae Lakes. The latter is arguably the busiest destination in this part of the Sierra, while intimate 60 Lakes was deserted and allowed a complete bypass of Rae Lakes

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After hitting Glen Pass near the top exit from Sixty Lakes it was JMT hiking until lonely Center Basin, here seen as the left forested arm of upper Bubbs Creek.


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The JMT used to go thru Center Basin before the Forester Pass trail was finished in 1932. Now it’s a remote valley with only a faint path. We heard coyotes and watched mallards in the lake and sandpipers along the marshes. Probably the finest location on the whole tour, and we had it to ourselves

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Before Forester the JMT used Junction Pass, which today is a totally forgotten and barely visible path from Center Basin over the actual Sierra Crest to below Shepherd Pass on the east side. This was another significant challenge of the SoSHR.

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We are now nearing the last of the major difficult sections by entering the Whitney region via the remote back door of upper Wallace and finally the Russell Carillon Col

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Before climbing the RC col one walks the shore of Tulainyo, at right, the highest lake of its size in the US. It was incredibly clear and untouched. Two coyotes hung out nearby while we filled our bottles

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The SoSHR takes the Mountaineers Route on Whitney, seen as the foreshortened gully to a notch on the right, before following the regular hiking route towards Trail Crest

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Four images from the Mountaineers Route. The main gully from Iceberg Lake is relatively easy and fast, but after the notch things get confusing. We opted for solid looking rock instead of lower angled loose blocks.

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The morning of our Whitney climb was followed by a pretty challenging afternoon of steep scree around Crabtree Pass, so when we arrived a Skyblue Lake at 4pm we collapsed at the shore and napped for several hours. After coming to at 7pm we cooked and then slept another 11 hrs!

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Skyblue, on day 8, marks the end of the real difficulties. The remaining 2 days dealt with beautiful Miter Basin, the Langley slog to fantastic views, the wild and rugged Old Army Pass, plus a surprisingly smooth 80 mile hitchhike back to Bishop Pass trailhead.

Overall a very good route with lots of cruiser miles in some of the best Sierra terrain. The spicy bits were more interesting than loathsome. We had a good time, and didn’t beat up ourselves as much as we sometimes do.
 

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Wow, that looks awesome as always, but also super hard (so many rocks...).

How did you guys have sub-30lb packs with ten days of food and bear canisters? You must not eat as much as me and my son!

Also, after every trip I try to identify at least one thing I need to tweak for future trips, and after last week's trip I decided I need to be better prepared in terms of gear repair. Seeing you fix your shoes just confirms that. What do you bring in your kit for gear repair?
 
Great trip report

- very cool that you got to see the herd of sheep
- Sixty Lakes basin is very beautiful, I found the contrast with Rae Lakes to be very striking. I'm glad that very few people bother to go over the ridge from Rae to Sixty
- Had lunch in Center Basin and would love to return. What did you think of Junction Pass? I've read mixed things about it.
- No desire to do the Mountaineers Route :) But your photos make it look awesome
- Miter Basin was very fun to walk through, definitely would like to spend the night there

Did you see many people off the JMT?
 
Wow, that looks awesome as always, but also super hard (so many rocks...).

How did you guys have sub-30lb packs with ten days of food and bear canisters? You must not eat as much as me and my son!

Also, after every trip I try to identify at least one thing I need to tweak for future trips, and after last week's trip I decided I need to be better prepared in terms of gear repair. Seeing you fix your shoes just confirms that. What do you bring in your kit for gear repair?
3100 cal/day for me. My kid ate more. But it was so warm and that makes me loose appetite quite a bit.

The bear canister weighed 15.5 lbs and adding a liter of water makes it about 18 lbs. That leaves 12 lbs for the pack, shared tent and gear, which is very attainable with all the ultralight stuff available these days. I also own a gear company, nunatakusa.com, so we tinker and tweak stuff to be fully optimal all the time

Haha yeah, repairs! I also broke a carbon trekking pole completely into two pieces but got it fully functional again by bridging the fracture with tent stakes and lashing them in place with 2mm dyneema cord.

For sewing we bring heavy and medium weight waxed twine and two sizes of triangular sailmakers needles, all from Sailrite.

High quality white cloth based athletic tape, aka climbers tape, is almost more useful than say Gorilla tape and we always have some of that. Doubles as a first aid item too.
 
This looks incredible!

I'd be interested to hear your son's input on the shoe blowout. I've been using Lems' Trailhead on trips this year, and while I've generally loved the fit they've also disintigrated a lot more rapidly than the trail shoes I've typically worn in the past (mostly Vasque).
 
Great trip report

- very cool that you got to see the herd of sheep
- Sixty Lakes basin is very beautiful, I found the contrast with Rae Lakes to be very striking. I'm glad that very few people bother to go over the ridge from Rae to Sixty
- Had lunch in Center Basin and would love to return. What did you think of Junction Pass? I've read mixed things about it.
- No desire to do the Mountaineers Route :) But your photos make it look awesome
- Miter Basin was very fun to walk through, definitely would like to spend the night there

Did you see many people off the JMT?
The sheep, the coyotes and peregrine falcons topped the list of wildlife sightings

Sixty lakes is doing well!

On Junction if you pay attention you can follow the old JMT for 90% of the distance. Actually my favorite 'off trail' section

Off the the JMT, nobody basically
 
This looks incredible!

I'd be interested to hear your son's input on the shoe blowout. I've been using Lems' Trailhead on trips this year, and while I've generally loved the fit they've also disintigrated a lot more rapidly than the trail shoes I've typically worn in the past (mostly Vasque).
50 days of hard backpacking did them in. He accidentally got the vegan version, thinking the regular might have been more durable
 
3100 cal/day for me. My kid ate more. But it was so warm and that makes me loose appetite quite a bit.

The bear canister weighed 15.5 lbs and adding a liter of water makes it about 18 lbs. That leaves 12 lbs for the pack, shared tent and gear, which is very attainable with all the ultralight stuff available these days. I also own a gear company, nunatakusa.com, so we tinker and tweak stuff to be fully optimal all the time
Yeah, I guess those numbers all add up. You guys are disciplined with bringing only the most calorie-dense food if you got that many calories in a canister and kept it to 15.5 lbs though! (I'm picturing you drinking olive oil and eating butter for dinner)

Haha yeah, repairs! I also broke a carbon trekking pole completely into two pieces but got it fully functional again by bridging the fracture with tent stakes and lashing them in place with 2mm dyneema cord.

For sewing we bring heavy and medium weight waxed twine and two sizes of triangular sailmakers needles, all from Sailrite.

High quality white cloth based athletic tape, aka climbers tape, is almost more useful than say Gorilla tape and we always have some of that. Doubles as a first aid item too.
Thanks for the info! I also broke a hiking pole last week but I didn't even really consider trying to fix it (not sure if duct tape around a stake would have been enough or not). I'll be placing an order for a few of those items you listed...
 
Great trip choice and I really enjoyed the report. No snow, not even in the North facing Whitney chutes, at the top of the notch. That probably opened up a lot more choices to get to the top.
 
Great photos! Nice to see someone else still using the Tom Harrison maps.
 
Good stuff! And great pics/report.

I was just up there too in mid-August -- wonder if we crossed paths?! I did a loopish hike from Horseshoe Meadow up to 60-Lakes Basin and back. My route was predominately on trail except for a few off-trail connectors to make it a bit more fun. Those included Rockwell Pass, enter/exit from 60 Lakes Basin like you did, Lil' Joe's Pass, and Whitney Creek/Crabtree Shortcut. I was going to do Junction Pass and Miter Basin as well, but opted to keep it easier as this was my first hike of the year due to a lingering knee issue. Loved that there were no bugs -- but missed the cooler temps and snow scenery of earlier in the season.

Thx for sharing.
 
Good stuff! And great pics/report.

I was just up there too in mid-August -- wonder if we crossed paths?! I did a loopish hike from Horseshoe Meadow up to 60-Lakes Basin and back. My route was predominately on trail except for a few off-trail connectors to make it a bit more fun. Those included Rockwell Pass, enter/exit from 60 Lakes Basin like you did, Lil' Joe's Pass, and Whitney Creek/Crabtree Shortcut. I was going to do Junction Pass and Miter Basin as well, but opted to keep it easier as this was my first hike of the year due to a lingering knee issue. Loved that there were no bugs -- but missed the cooler temps and snow scenery of earlier in the season.

Thx for sharing.
Maybe we passed each other. We were out by the 14th. The trail portions we did were very crowded, but the few hikers that didn't act like total rookies stood out - and they didn't look like you!
 
Good stuff! And great pics/report.

I was just up there too in mid-August -- wonder if we crossed paths?! I did a loopish hike from Horseshoe Meadow up to 60-Lakes Basin and back. My route was predominately on trail except for a few off-trail connectors to make it a bit more fun. Those included Rockwell Pass, enter/exit from 60 Lakes Basin like you did, Lil' Joe's Pass, and Whitney Creek/Crabtree Shortcut. I was going to do Junction Pass and Miter Basin as well, but opted to keep it easier as this was my first hike of the year due to a lingering knee issue. Loved that there were no bugs -- but missed the cooler temps and snow scenery of earlier in the season.

Thx for sharing.

Trip report coming soon? :)
 
Maybe we passed each other. We were out by the 14th. The trail portions we did were very crowded, but the few hikers that didn't act like total rookies stood out - and they didn't look like you!

OK -- based on that I think I crossed your path in the Wright Creek/Rockwell Pass area the morning after you guys were there. I was still headed north at that time. I regret missing out on Center Basin after your comments (but don't regret skipping the climb up Junction Pass.)

Trip report coming soon? :)

TBD -- but hoping to make a video. It might have to wait a while though as have some other commitments first and headed back to Utah soon for another (relatively short) trip.
 
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