Snow on Sandstone

Dave

Broadcaster, formerly "ashergrey"
.
Joined
May 5, 2012
Messages
1,722
The winter of 17/18 has not been kind to the Colorado Plateau. Snowpack is abysmal. Yet still, somehow, I've had the good fortune to make a couple of quick road trips to catch the aftermath of storms.

Both of these outings were photography-focused, with some hiking on the side or as a result of needing to reach photo locations.

The first came the weekend before Christmas. Arches NP made some noise on Twitter about having to close the entrance road because of winter conditions. That was my clue something interesting was happening.

I work a Monday-Friday schedule so catching interesting weather events is usually not going to happen unless they're kind enough to occur on a Saturday or Sunday. This time though, the road closure meant I might be able to find Arches covered with a foot of fresh snow, untrammeled.

My sole goal was to capture Delicate Arch with fresh snow. Delicate Arch is normally a place I'd avoid like skin flakes from a leper. In my mind's eye, I had an image of the orange rock blanketed by white powder.

_MG_2879.jpg


Game on.

Drove down from Salt Lake late... so much so I didn't pull into the trailhead lot until 1:30 a.m. Sunrise would come early so I settled down to grab a quick nap. No sooner had I fallen asleep than someone else pulled into the lot, drove around, got out, got in, moved the car, got out again and finally left.

At 5:30 I came awake to see another car in the lot and a photographer unpacking his gear. Time to go.

_MG_2897.jpg


_MG_2916.jpg


There were three of us up there for sunrise. Unfortunately, the clouds didn't cooperate and sunlight was elusive.

When the daylight hikers started to arrive, I packed up and departed.

_MG_3006.jpg


_MG_2994.jpg


After scarfing down breakfast I headed up the road a bit to see how conditions looked near Devil's Garden. The snow was deep and largely untrammeled, so I headed for Broken Arch.

_MG_3031.jpg


_MG_3056.jpg


_MG_3091.jpg


The tracks in the snow dead-ended not far beyond the arch. Still, it was pretty simple to make out the trail so I forged ahead toward the campground.

_MG_3107.jpg


_MG_0039.jpg


_MG_3127.jpg


_MG_3120.jpg


_MG_3116.jpg


The park service was trying to tell me something but I couldn't quite make out the sign.

_MG_3133.jpg


The campground was deserted. Probably about the only time I'd ever set foot here.

_MG_3142.jpg


_MG_3145.jpg


Hawk and coyote food was abundant.

_MG_0056.jpg


Wrapping up the loop, I rolled back down to the Delicate Arch trailhead to find it absolutely mobbed. I took a nap and it didn't seem to be any better when I woke up, though there were plenty of people headed back down the trail.

A woman hiking down stopped me as I started ascending toward Delicate Arch around 4 p.m., carrying two cameras and a full-size tripod.

"You're going up there now?"

"Yes, for sunset."

"The trail is really slick."

"I know. I was up there this morning."

"Oh, well it's going to get icy when the sun goes down."

No kidding, lady.

The crowd at the arch probably came in around 60-80 people. Most were chilling, literally and figuratively. Several photographers were set up around the bowl. A few jerks were braving the icy path over to the arch, leaving tracks.

The light, again, was less than perfect. I framed the shot I wanted, then sat and waited. And waited.

And waited.

The disc of the sun slid down past a gap in the clouds and for the briefest moment, a window of only a few seconds, it shone directly on the arch.

_MG_0080.jpg


And then it was gone.

_MG_3171.jpg


The crowd dispersed and we all started making our way down the icy trail, some of us more quickly than others.

_MG_3151.jpg


I stopped partway down and gave my gloves to a Pakistani woman who had recently moved to Ogden. Her friends suggested they should all go down and see Arches with snow. She was wearing fashion boots with flat soles. She didn't have a flashlight. With a little butt-scooting and hand-holding, she made it down okay.

_MG_3213.jpg


Fast-forward a couple of dry, warm weeks. Another storm headed for Utah bringing the promise of desert snow. This time, the forecast called for 8-12 inches at Bryce Canyon.

Second verse, same as the first. I packed up the car, charged batteries and prepared to depart on a Saturday afternoon.

Driving conditions were terrible. Snow south of Scipio to about Beaver kept traffic on I-15 moving slowly. To make matters more interesting, Congress had failed to fund the government the night before, so the parks were in shutdown.

I finally made it to Bryce after dark. Instead of heavy, fresh snow the weather had brought 20-30 mile-per-hour winds. The wind chill drove temperatures well into negative territory. I hunkered down for the night, listening to the frigid air rushing through the pines.

Just like at Arches, cars started rolling up to the Sunrise Point trailhead before dawn. I dressed in layers (6 of them!) and went out into the cold.

The wind had not abated. The few people who'd shown up to watch sunrise scurried to the rim, then hurried back to their warm cars.

_MG_3287.jpg


The valley below was full of fog.

_MG_0020.jpg


And the wind kept whipping snow and ice into the air, causing it to catch sunlight and sparkle like millions of suspended diamonds.

_MG_0041.jpg


_MG_0096.jpg


The fog started to clear as the sun climbed higher into the eastern sky. Daylight revealed what I had feared: the storm had fizzled. Most of the snow was dry, crusty and shallow.

_MG_3332.jpg


_MG_3339.jpg


_MG_0120.jpg


_MG_0123.jpg


Still, it provided decent contrast on the scenery.

I vacillated for a time about whether or not to hike below the rim. After shooting some photos and videos related to the government shutdown for work, I packed a bag and headed for the Fairyland loop.

_MG_0181.jpg


_MG_3409.jpg


_MG_0249.jpg


_MG_3404.jpg


_MG_0221.jpg


_MG_3467.jpg


_MG_3392.jpg


_MG_3478.jpg


_MG_0283.jpg


It remained bitterly cold and windy but by the end of the hike, I'd shed three of my six layers and sweat through the remaining ones. The idea of waiting for sunset seemed foolhardy considering the risk of hypothermia and overcast skies.
 
Last edited:

Perry

Formerly Cuberant
.
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
2,028
There is something very special about Bryce and snow.
 

Reef&Ruins

Colorado Plateau is calling...
Joined
Feb 3, 2017
Messages
501
Fantastic. Excellent TR. We were at Arches just before Christmas and really enjoyed the snow, although there were decidedly more people about than what you saw.
 

ramblinman

Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2014
Messages
92
Wow, really nice stuff. Bryce with snow is spectacular and I love those shots of the fog at sunrise.
 

WasatchWill

Ready For More
.
Joined
Jul 23, 2013
Messages
1,501
Wow! Going off the Arches pictures, you'd never know we were having such an abysmal winter out west here. Gorgeous photos. Loved the commentary too! And hey, I learned a new word: vacillated. So thanks!
 

Vegan.Hiker

Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
2,090
These are all amazing Dave. I love the two of the hare, especially the one where he’s munching on some vegetation.
 

Titans

Member
.
Joined
Aug 18, 2018
Messages
1,073
The winter of 17/18 has not been kind to the Colorado Plateau. Snowpack is abysmal. Yet still, somehow, I've had the good fortune to make a couple of quick road trips to catch the aftermath of storms.

Both of these outings were photography-focused, with some hiking on the side or as a result of needing to reach photo locations.

The first came the weekend before Christmas. Arches NP made some noise on Twitter about having to close the entrance road because of winter conditions. That was my clue something interesting was happening.

I work a Monday-Friday schedule so catching interesting weather events is usually not going to happen unless they're kind enough to occur on a Saturday or Sunday. This time though, the road closure meant I might be able to find Arches covered with a foot of fresh snow, untrammeled.

My sole goal was to capture Delicate Arch with fresh snow. Delicate Arch is normally a place I'd avoid like skin flakes from a leper. In my mind's eye, I had an image of the orange rock blanketed by white powder.

View attachment 61388

Game on.

Drove down from Salt Lake late... so much so I didn't pull into the trailhead lot until 1:30 a.m. Sunrise would come early so I settled down to grab a quick nap. No sooner had I fallen asleep than someone else pulled into the lot, drove around, got out, got in, moved the car, got out again and finally left.

At 5:30 I came awake to see another car in the lot and a photographer unpacking his gear. Time to go.

View attachment 61387

View attachment 61386

There were three of us up there for sunrise. Unfortunately, the clouds didn't cooperate and sunlight was elusive.

When the daylight hikers started to arrive, I packed up and departed.

View attachment 61364

View attachment 61385

After scarfing down breakfast I headed up the road a bit to see how conditions looked near Devil's Garden. The snow was deep and largely untrammeled, so I headed for Broken Arch.

View attachment 61363

View attachment 61384

View attachment 61366

The tracks in the snow dead-ended not far beyond the arch. Still, it was pretty simple to make out the trail so I forged ahead toward the campground.

View attachment 61362

View attachment 61368

View attachment 61367

View attachment 61382

View attachment 61383

The park service was trying to tell me something but I couldn't quite make out the sign.

View attachment 61369

The campground was deserted. Probably about the only time I'd ever set foot here.

View attachment 61365

View attachment 61380

Hawk and coyote food was abundant.

View attachment 61381

Wrapping up the loop, I rolled back down to the Delicate Arch trailhead to find it absolutely mobbed. I took a nap and it didn't seem to be any better when I woke up, though there were plenty of people headed back down the trail.

A woman hiking down stopped me as I started ascending toward Delicate Arch around 4 p.m., carrying two cameras and a full-size tripod.

"You're going up there now?"

"Yes, for sunset."

"The trail is really slick."

"I know. I was up there this morning."

"Oh, well it's going to get icy when the sun goes down."

No kidding, lady.

The crowd at the arch probably came in around 60-80 people. Most were chilling, literally and figuratively. Several photographers were set up around the bowl. A few jerks were braving the icy path over to the arch, leaving tracks.

The light, again, was less than perfect. I framed the shot I wanted, then sat and waited. And waited.

And waited.

The disc of the sun slid down past a gap in the clouds and for the briefest moment, a window of only a few seconds, it shone directly on the arch.

View attachment 61370

And then it was gone.

View attachment 61378

The crowd dispersed and we all started making our way down the icy trail, some of us more quickly than others.

View attachment 61379

I stopped partway down and gave my gloves to a Pakistani woman who had recently moved to Ogden. Her friends suggested they should all go down and see Arches with snow. She was wearing fashion boots with flat soles. She didn't have a flashlight. With a little butt-scooting and hand-holding, she made it down okay.

View attachment 61377

Fast-forward a couple of dry, warm weeks. Another storm headed for Utah bringing the promise of desert snow. This time, the forecast called for 8-12 inches at Bryce Canyon.

Second verse, same as the first. I packed up the car, charged batteries and prepared to depart on a Saturday afternoon.

Driving conditions were terrible. Snow south of Scipio to about Beaver kept traffic on I-15 moving slowly. To make matters more interesting, Congress had failed to fund the government the night before, so the parks were in shutdown.

I finally made it to Bryce after dark. Instead of heavy, fresh snow the weather had brought 20-30 mile-per-hour winds. The wind chill drove temperatures well into negative territory. I hunkered down for the night, listening to the frigid air rushing through the pines.

Just like at Arches, cars started rolling up to the Sunrise Point trailhead before dawn. I dressed in layers (6 of them!) and went out into the cold.

The wind had not abated. The few people who'd shown up to watch sunrise scurried to the rim, then hurried back to their warm cars.

View attachment 61394

The valley below was full of fog.

View attachment 61391

And the wind kept whipping snow and ice into the air, causing it to catch sunlight and sparkle like millions of suspended diamonds.

View attachment 61390

View attachment 61397

The fog started to clear as the sun climbed higher into the eastern sky. Daylight revealed what I had feared: the storm had fizzled. Most of the snow was dry, crusty and shallow.

View attachment 61402

View attachment 61396

View attachment 61395

View attachment 61389

Still, it provided decent contrast on the scenery.

I vacillated for a time about whether or not to hike below the rim. After shooting some photos and videos related to the government shutdown for work, I packed a bag and headed for the Fairyland loop.

View attachment 61398

View attachment 61393

View attachment 61404

View attachment 61400

View attachment 61405

View attachment 61399

View attachment 61401

View attachment 61392

View attachment 61403

It remained bitterly cold and windy but by the end of the hike, I'd shed three of my six layers and sweat through the remaining ones. The idea of waiting for sunset seemed foolhardy considering the risk of hypothermia and overcast skies.
Wow- wow-wow.....! Such a joy to see your photos. Thanks for sharing- awesome trip report, love it.
The snow covered warning sign in Arches is very funny....
We also twice in the winter hiked the Fairyland loop in Bryce (1 time with snow).
We started in single digits and negative windshields, but once we dropped off the rim we were fine and shed many layers, like you mentioned.
 
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