Ryder & McPheters Lakes, Uintas

Nick

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Aug 9, 2007
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July 2007

We had originally planned a long 30+ mile 5-day trip but about a week before we found out Taylor couldn't come and we thought it would just be Audra and I. Then the day before we left Taylor informed us that he had invited Robyn and she had taken the time off work. Robyn was Taylor's roommate for the winter and I skied with her once but otherwise did not know her. Robyn was great to hike with. She spent a lot of time guiding youth trips in the desert so she was good and ready for the Uintas. This was her first trip to the area. As for me this goes down as one of my all-time favorite areas in the Uintas. The only comparable area would have to be Rock Creek that I visited on a solo trip back in 2005.

The first 2.5 miles of the Christmas Meadows Trail is nicely maintained. Most of that traffic ends up in Amethyst Basin.
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3 miles in, the trail crosses Ostler Creek. The traffic decreases a lot a this point because of the Amethyst Basin traffic.
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A couple of miles before Ryder, the trail goes from gradual uphill to very steep.
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Nikita checking out a squirrel as the trail rises quickly above the valley below.
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After the steep section.
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We setup camp at the unnamed lake right next to Ryder. I can't remember if it was BR-17 or BR-27 at the moment. Nice like though.
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Hayden Peak from camp
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Nikita getting a drink as the sun sets.
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Day two brought with it sunshine and beautiful blue skies. As usual in The Uintas, this wouldn't last through the afternoon.
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We decided to take advantage of the sunny weather and dayhike into the upper reaches of the basin. This is a shot of our unnamed lake from the other side. Our camp is on the distant right side of this shot.
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As we climbed higher we gained a new perspective of Ryder Lake.
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I didn't think this picture was particularly blog-worthy at first until I saw Audra standing on the right had side. It really gives some scale of the rocks.
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This shot shows how close we were to the other lakes. Our lake is on the right and Ryder is on the left. There are several more unnamed lakes just beyond our lake.
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Hiking through the basin well above timberline.
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This is the ridge that divides this basin from the Mirror Lake Highway area. It was so close we wanted to hike up for a look but there were some threatening clouds rolling in. Apparently this is a pretty popular route to shortcut in here from the Highline Trailhead but I haven't tried it.
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Family portrait, Nikita, Nick and Audra.
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Admiring the view from 11,098 at the top of the basin.
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Nikita, as usual, gravitates towards any available patches of snow.
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McPheter's Lake. I really wanted to stop and fish this but we were really far from camp and there was a storm rolling in. It looks like a very deep lake.
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We made it back to camp just before the rain became heavy. I'd like to think we were the first, if not amongst the first to sit in a tent above 10,000 feet and watch a video on an iPhone. It has just been released a few days earlier.
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After the storm I was determined to catch some fish. I wasn't having much luck at our lake so I walked over to Ryder to try my luck. The fishing was GREAT! I couldn't keep them off my line, notice all of the ripples in this picture. So I'm bring in a fish when I hear Audra yell my name. I look up and see Nikita chasing this Moose into the lake (distant background of this picture). It was crazy! I yelled at her to come back but she was hell bent on the moose.
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Nikita wasn't listening to me so the Moose decided to take things into her own hands. This shot is as as the moose is heading out of the water towards Nikita.
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After about a minute in the lake the moose had had enough and came out of the water and charged Nikita. She was literally inches from being trampled by the moose. It scared me to death. The only thing that saved her was the huge pile of rocks to the left. Nikita dived into them but the moose couldn't follow. You can see Nikita scrambling away in this shot.
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Nikita came back to us but the moose didn't leave. It slowly kept moving towards us so we went back to camp. It walked right past our camp and grazed about 50 yards away for a good 20 minutes.
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I kept just enough brookies to fill the pan. Deeeeelicious!
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This is our camp and Robyn laying in her bivy. About 7am that same moose from the day before wondered into camp and woke up Robyn by sniffing at her head. It was literally 2 feet away from her while she was lying on the ground. Robyn moved a bit and the moose got scared and ran away. Freaky stuff. Needless to say she didn't make it back to sleep.
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Today was 7/7/07 and also my birthday so I thought I'd try to catch one more fish but it just wasn't happening. Photo by Audra.
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We packed up camp and made the hike back out to the Christmas Meadows Trailhead. The bad thing about losing all of the elevation so close to the lake was that it was super hot for most of the way back. So after four and half hours of fast hiking we were back to the car and enjoying a cold one.
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Group shot at the trailhead. From left: Audra, Nick, Robyn.
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I've hit that basin up a few times. Beautiful spot. Both times I've been, I've traded distance for elevation change and have started at the Highline Trail parking area for a shorter but considerably steeper trip up & over the ridge.
 
Awesome TR. I loved the story of Nikita messing around with that Elk. I'm sure it was scary at the time, but makes for a fun story.

I sure wish I liked fish because I love the idea of not having to carry more food in on a trip and just relying on lake trout. I can't stand fish, so I guess I'll just have to keep packing more.
 
I have lived on both sides of the atlantic and both sides of the pacific before....and in between. Ryder lake is my favorite place on this planet! I was once reading in a National Park Service book called "Exploring the American West" and suddenly saw a picture from the King survey of 1869. In the book it is listed only as "Summits of the Uintas". The USGS site shows the picture and lists it as Agassiz Lake. Take a look and tell me what you think. The photo is in the link below.

USGS King Survey Photo
 
I have lived on both sides of the atlantic and both sides of the pacific before....and in between. Ryder lake is my favorite place on this planet! I was once reading in a National Park Service book called "Exploring the American West" and suddenly saw a picture from the King survey of 1869. In the book it is listed only as "Summits of the Uintas". The USGS site shows the picture and lists it as Agassiz Lake. Take a look and tell me what you think. The photo is in the link below.

USGS King Survey Photo

Totally Ryder Lake!
 
This one, from the same survey, in the same area, has one of the team members riding piggy back on a Sasquatch in the bottom right portion of the photo. Well, OK, maybe not...but it looks that way to me. Ryder just may be the original photo and not the Patterson video. (tongue-n-cheek of course)

Bigfoot piggyback ride
 
Nice report! I'm hoping I can get my fam to do a three day pack out to Ryder and Kermsuh this summer. Btw, when I saw the picture of your friend's bivy sack, I thought about the moose story and got the giggles all over again.:D
 
extra points for South Park!!! :twothumbs:

Cool TR! Great photos!
 
Awesome TR. I loved the story of Nikita messing around with that Elk. I'm sure it was scary at the time, but makes for a fun story.

I sure wish I liked fish because I love the idea of not having to carry more food in on a trip and just relying on lake trout. I can't stand fish, so I guess I'll just have to keep packing more.

It was a big Moose, not an Elk! Damn that was scary, but it definitely is a fun story now. Especially the part where it came back into camp and woke Robyn up by sniffing her face. Hahaha.

If it makes you feel any better, I never carry any less food and plan to eat fish. Sometimes you get 'em sometimes, you don't. And when you do, they're usually just hors d'oeuvres! Have you ever tried them from super high elevation brook trout or cutthroats? You might like it. Rarely even a bit of fishy flavor, just pure delicious.
 
It was a big Moose, not an Elk! Damn that was scary, but it definitely is a fun story now.

In an interesting and only slightly related to this post irony; it wasn't until I was in Europe that I found that the British word for Moose is Elk. They don't have elk and if one looks in translation dictionaries like German to English or Swedish to English and looks at the foreign word for Moose it will show Elk as the English equivalent. I don't know when we got the Elk/Moose thing differing here since the original British settlers certainly would have been using the term Elk for Moose when they showed up on the East coast in the 1600s.
 
If it makes you feel any better, I never carry any less food and plan to eat fish. Sometimes you get 'em sometimes, you don't. And when you do, they're usually just hors d'oeuvres! Have you ever tried them from super high elevation brook trout or cutthroats? You might like it. Rarely even a bit of fishy flavor, just pure delicious.

I never rely on fish only for a meal... I learned a trick to get rid of the "fishy" taste. You take some gallon size ziplock bags and some salt. After cleaning the fish throw them in the ziplock bag with some salt and water and let soak for about 1 hour. I kept it cool in the creek while it soaked in the brine. BEST FISH I'VE EVER HAD!!!!! :twothumbs:
 
I never rely on fish only for a meal... I learned a trick to get rid of the "fishy" taste. You take some gallon size ziplock bags and some salt. After cleaning the fish throw them in the ziplock bag with some salt and water and let soak for about 1 hour. I kept it cool in the creek while it soaked in the brine. BEST FISH I'VE EVER HAD!!!!! :twothumbs:

Homer J, may I recommend adding some Morton Tender Quick to your brine also. Maybe 50/50 with the salt.
 
Homer J, may I recommend adding some Morton Tender Quick to your brine also. Maybe 50/50 with the salt.
Yes you may! Thanks for the tip! :twothumbs:
 
Fun to read about your trip into my favorite place in the Uintas. The "shortcut" over the ridge from the highline trail is awesome. I remember my Dad talking about doing that trip and just living off all the fish he caught for a couple of days. My first venture to the basin was the traditonal route from Christmas meadows. after that I only use the shorter, STEEP & kinda treacherous route over the ridge. the view from the top is amazing and the fishing is some of the best I've ever had in the Uintas...or anywhere for that matter.
 
My Ward's scout troop is hiking to Ryder Lake for their summer camp adventure this year. Unfortunately I won't be able to join them due to family and work commitments. Looks like a great trip.
 
This post brings back great memories. I'm 62 but when i was 17ish we would hike by the side of Hayden's Peak and come down the scree field to Ryder lake. Just yesterday I was at the Highline trailhead looking up towards Hayden's Peak and wondering where we went up. There was a short chimney we would have to shimmy up. We had tied a rope to our back pack prior to shimmying up and once to the top we would pull them up. I couldn't find where the chimney was or where we would go off the trail and start hiking towards the chimney. If anyone can enlighten me on where that was I would appreciate it.
 
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