Mt. Shuksan via the Sulfide Glacier

ram

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
109
After 10 days, a tendon around Jenny's knee was complaining. I will say upfront that NO ONE is tougher than this gal. So I put a hand on the tendon and was shocked and appalled. Swollen bigger than a golf ball! How was she able to even walk on that thing? Oh yeah...she is tough. Sigh, alas she could not make the next installment of "Cascade's 2018." She would recover in days, which is stunning, in of itself.

Giles continued on and friends Stephan Ziff and Mike Schasch came in for Mt. Shuksan. This mountain is famed throughout the world for its bulk, glaciers and stunning beauty. One of the true monarchs, of the region. I had done this peak, 3 times in the past. In 92, 93, and 06. All 3 times via the Fisher Chimneys. I love that route, but the 5,000 foot ascent on snow and then down the same day, to a high camp, was just a bit more beyond what my slowing body, would want. So time to try the Sulfide Glacier! I was disappointed but I need not have worried. The Sulfide route delivers the goods.

I realized early on,that Stephen, Mike and Giles had never met each other. This was a stunning revelation to me. I had adventured extensively with each of them, but never an overlap. I had done 42, 10 and 10 years of adventure with these friends, respectively. It was a joy to observe them become such fast friends. They will adventure together frequently, over the coming years, is my guess.


Giles and Ziff (Stephen) at the park boundary. Baker in the clouds
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Mike
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Heather at treeline
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The approach toward camp
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Giles waiting for the old man
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Mike and Ziff staking out the high camp, in silhouette
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Hagan Peak, across the valley. Staring at it for a few days, we now hope to go there next year
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Into camp
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Tarp set up...getting to know you!
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views from camp. This ice fall made noise all 3 days

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The summit pyramid out of the cloud...far away
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As predicted, clearing off. Telephoto
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Time to lounge about
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Selfie
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The view from my sleeping bag
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Sunrise the next day
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Moving toward the peak
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Baker, brought close
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In real life
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The rock of the summit pyramid. I went this class 4 route, while my partners free solo'd the mid fifth class ridge
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My view on the way up
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Summit. We stayed on top 2 hours
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The view over the top into Canada
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Canyoneering is a down climbing game and all were versed at it. All the other groups rapped the gully, while we made quick business of it downclimbing
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Ziff explains how fast down is
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And in just a few hours, back in camp.
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Once again, it is early enough to hike out.....but what place is better than this? We decide to stay the night
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Home, sweet home
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The famous, remote and difficult North Pickets. Been twice. Took a week each time
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Last light
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Up close and personal
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I start early, they catch me quickly
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Down into the trees
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Thus comes another Cascade season to an end for me. I have been 24 of the last 27 (Two Winds, One Sierra's) July's, up in this wonderful area. I hope to "limp" through as many more years as I can. I get slower, the mountains get taller, my partners faster, but I am "hangin" on.
Ram
 
Last edited:

wsp_scott

Member
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Joined
May 16, 2016
Messages
1,021
What a great way to spend a summer, keep "hangin on". And keep posting photos/reports :)
 
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Ben

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2014
Messages
1,873
i've just got to say thanks again for taking the time to share things like this here. we need it.
 

Ugly

Life really is better Here
.
Joined
Apr 20, 2013
Messages
1,087
All of these reports have been above excellent.
Thanks Ram.
 

MikeM

Member
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Joined
Oct 12, 2015
Messages
363
If the Cascades weren't on my bucket list before, they certainly are now! Excellent reports!
 

DrNed

The mountains are calling and I must go
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Joined
Mar 31, 2013
Messages
1,016
Your down climb photo reminds me of why I stay
away from such things. Nevertheless, great stuff!
 

Vegan.Hiker

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Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
2,094
Thanks so much for taking us on your adventures. I’ve been loving all of your reports.
 

Kullaberg63

Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2014
Messages
558
I have only done the Fisher Chimney route, in 1994. I think we went car to car, and got quite worn out. Is Sulfide easier? It sounds like that's what you're saying.
 

ram

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
109
I have only done the Fisher Chimney route, in 1994. I think we went car to car, and got quite worn out. Is Sulfide easier? It sounds like that's what you're saying.

The Sulfide is quite a bit easier, day trip or overnight. With the Fisher Chimney route, you have the 4 mile hike in, down then up, to about 4,400 feet at Lake Ann. This trail has high footing for an approach, thus can be snowy and hard to follow. From Ann to the top is 4,700 higher, with a few downs along the way. From Lake Ann it is still a very BIG day. One could full pack to the top of the chimneys. There is a nice spot or two up at the bottom of Winnie's slide. That brings the day down to size, but carrying up to that camp with an overnight pack is not inconsequential.

The Sulfide on the other hand is an easy trail at a comfortable gradient, with the best camps right in the middle making for logical and manageable days.

But when it comes to the bottom line, IMHO Fisher's is the better route. Prettier, with more varied and interesting terrain. I chose Sulfide because it was new and we were already on that side of the mountain, but most importantly, it was easier with my growing physical limitations.


Here is the album from my 2006 ascent of the Fisher Chimneys. I will embed a few of the key places discussed in my commentary above

2006 ascent
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ojY3XXdWPH74DWtT8


The peak is very far from Lake Ann camp as seen here
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You can see the camps on top of the chimneys behind us in the first and am standing in them in the 2nd. First taken from Winnie's Slide. In the 2nd, the top of the chimneys on the left side of photo
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A few highlight photos of the Fisher route before it meets the Sulfide

Leaving the Salmon Glacier and going on the Upper Curtis Glacier
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Heading toward Hells Highway. The top is where you join the Sulfide
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My desktop for several years:)

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Ben

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2014
Messages
1,873
The Sulfide is quite a bit easier, day trip or overnight. With the Fisher Chimney route, you have the 4 mile hike in, down then up, to about 4,400 feet at Lake Ann. This trail has high footing for an approach, thus can be snowy and hard to follow. From Ann to the top is 4,700 higher, with a few downs along the way. From Lake Ann it is still a very BIG day. One could full pack to the top of the chimneys. There is a nice spot or two up at the bottom of Winnie's slide. That brings the day down to size, but carrying up to that camp with an overnight pack is not inconsequential.

The Sulfide on the other hand is an easy trail at a comfortable gradient, with the best camps right in the middle making for logical and manageable days.

But when it comes to the bottom line, IMHO Fisher's is the better route. Prettier, with more varied and interesting terrain. I chose Sulfide because it was new and we were already on that side of the mountain, but most importantly, it was easier with my growing physical limitations.

Here is the album from my 2006 ascent of the Fisher Chimneys. I will embed a few of the key places discussed in my commentary above

2006 ascent
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ojY3XXdWPH74DWtT8


The peak is very far from Lake Ann camp as seen here
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You can see the camps on top of the chimneys behind us in the first and am standing in them in the 2nd. First taken from Winnie's Slide. In the 2nd, the top of the chimneys on the left side of photo
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A few highlight photos of the Fisher route before it meets the Sulfide

Leaving the Salmon Glacier and going on the Upper Curtis Glacier
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Heading toward Hells Highway. The top is where you join the Sulfide
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My desktop for several years:)

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Dang.
 
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