ram
Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2013
- Messages
- 116
It was time for the annual North Cascades mountain climbing trip. First partner was Jenny West, back for 2nds in the range, after a 3 year absence. We did an afternoon full pack up to Cascade Pass and then onto what is called Mix-Up Arm. We encountered steep snow traverses with dangerous run out that had us moving slowly and cautiously. The Cache Glacier followed, as we roped up for it. The snow wall at the end was led by the talented and experienced Jenny.
The Cache Col camp is one of the nicest camps I have ever been to. We spent 4 nights there, the last essentially after the food ran out because we couldn't get ourselves to leave. We had company at camp, in the way of several goats, very interested in our urine. I bivied on the ground and awoke in the middle of the night to a goat snout inches from my face. My spontaneous girlie scream scared him off for a bit. This goat had very bad breathe.
The next day, we got up, descended 900 vertical feet of steep snow and around the corner and up more steep snow toward Magic Mountain. Steep heather, led to lower angle snow and then the final summit tower , which must be circled to its only weakness of steep and exposed class 4 blocks. Ahhh but on the way, we encountered dangerous and exposed snow gullies that had to be crossed. Jenny to the recuse again, cutting nice steps and dealing the dangerous moats between the snow and the rock.
After 20 minutes on the summit, we headed for the next mountain over, known at Hurry-Up. Along the way, we encountered 50 degree snow traverse that unnerved and nearly unhinged me. I kicked steps and we searched hard for a safe place off the snow, onto the rock. I spotted Jenny in and we proceeded up the steep but easy slopes to the final 1/4 mile narrow summit ridge.
With the clouds dropping and a storm threatening, we exited off the mountain. A slip on steep snow led to an exciting self arrest for my partner. Into camp, dinner and a cloud and sun show, for evening entertainment.
A few pictures and a slide show
[picasa]https://picasaweb.google.com/108034287150978265447/MagicAndHurryUpMountains#[/picasa]
Featured image for home page:
The Cache Col camp is one of the nicest camps I have ever been to. We spent 4 nights there, the last essentially after the food ran out because we couldn't get ourselves to leave. We had company at camp, in the way of several goats, very interested in our urine. I bivied on the ground and awoke in the middle of the night to a goat snout inches from my face. My spontaneous girlie scream scared him off for a bit. This goat had very bad breathe.
The next day, we got up, descended 900 vertical feet of steep snow and around the corner and up more steep snow toward Magic Mountain. Steep heather, led to lower angle snow and then the final summit tower , which must be circled to its only weakness of steep and exposed class 4 blocks. Ahhh but on the way, we encountered dangerous and exposed snow gullies that had to be crossed. Jenny to the recuse again, cutting nice steps and dealing the dangerous moats between the snow and the rock.
After 20 minutes on the summit, we headed for the next mountain over, known at Hurry-Up. Along the way, we encountered 50 degree snow traverse that unnerved and nearly unhinged me. I kicked steps and we searched hard for a safe place off the snow, onto the rock. I spotted Jenny in and we proceeded up the steep but easy slopes to the final 1/4 mile narrow summit ridge.
With the clouds dropping and a storm threatening, we exited off the mountain. A slip on steep snow led to an exciting self arrest for my partner. Into camp, dinner and a cloud and sun show, for evening entertainment.
A few pictures and a slide show
[picasa]https://picasaweb.google.com/108034287150978265447/MagicAndHurryUpMountains#[/picasa]
Featured image for home page:
