Intro to Grand Canyon Backpacking

[Nick]

I've decided that one of the things I have to do in 2013 is visit the Grand Canyon. For all the exploring I've done in the southwest, I've not been to the Grand even one time. I've heard of some good places to go and camp on the rim but I don't hear a lot about backpacking aside from the rim to rim Bright Angel Trail. But as great as I'm sure that is, I don't really want to deal with those crowds. Does anyone have any recommendations on other routes or areas of the canyon that I should look into for a nice 3-5 day backpacking trip that will have a bit more solitude and still knock my socks off?

Oh, and when is the best time to go? Spring or Fall?

 

[Howells Outdoors]

I've been looking at backpacking to the Little Colorado River using the Tanner and Beamer trails. Should be a great couple days

 

[Dan]

North Rim or South Rim? Thunder River - Deer Creek loop is a 5 day classic - and relatively easy as a first big "backpacking" trip down there.

If you want to do technical canyons, the list just got miles and miles longer...

 

[Jammer]

I second the Deer Creek/Thunder River area. If you have the time to do a loop around Fishtail Mesa via Kanab Creek -- all the better (but you probably want a week for that.) I never did a full trip report of my hike in that area, but I do have a longish video report on YouTube.

Hermit and Horseshoe Mesa are both good trails on the south rim that see quite a bit of people, but nothing like the "Tourist" corridor trails of Bright Angel or North/South Kaibab.

- Jamal

 

[Dan]

nice Jammer. just watched your kanab deer creek loop videos. some great country in that stretch. can't believe you skipped whispering falls! but being a bit behind schedule, I can understand why.

btw, you should write up at least a quick TR with a map of where you went so people can get an idea of your route. it's no walk in the park.

 

[Jammer]

can't believe you skipped whispering falls! but being a bit behind schedule, I can understand why.

Yep... one of the big regrets of the trip. I sat at the junction for about 5min contemplating! I wasn't 100% I was at the right jct so I really didn't want to spend the time if I was at the wrong place. So much went wrong on that hike: I was really out of shape that year which slowed me down, I twisted my knee on day 3 which slowed me down even more and the list went on and on. Looking back, I was fairly inexperienced in terms of backcountry hiking.

It's on the list of old trips I want to write up. This thread might actually give me the excuse.

- JG

 

[Nick]

I just watched the vids. I'm pretty sure I watched them a while back too, but still very inspiring. I am definitely going to get my ass to the Grand this year!

 

[Laura]

I'll also be going to the Grand Canyon in 2013, the first time in about 30 years. I'll be doing night photography and was wondering where is a good spot to shoot the stars over the canyon?

 

[Dan]

I'll also be going to the Grand Canyon in 2013, the first time in about 30 years. I'll be doing night photography and was wondering where is a good spot to shoot the stars over the canyon?

how wide is your lens? it's a surprisingly hard place to shoot the stars from - from in the canyon bottom you could frame the sky with canyon walls silhouetted, or from the esplanade you could shoot over the river with a 50-50 kind of composition. do you want to backpack or shoot from the rim?

 

[Laura]

how wide is your lens? it's a surprisingly hard place to shoot the stars from - from in the canyon bottom you could frame the sky with canyon walls silhouetted, or from the esplanade you could shoot over the river with a 50-50 kind of composition. do you want to backpack or shoot from the rim?

I realized I left out a lot of information in that one, like which rim I'll be at (South) and I'll be shooting from the rim. I have a 24mm f1.4 lens and a 35 mm f1.4 to choose from and I'm doing pinpoint stars. I was thinking kind of a 50/50 composition. The moon should be about 59%. All suggestions welcome, I haven't been there in over 30 years!

 

[Dan]

full frame or crop?

 

[IntrepidXJ]

If you don't mind a man-made structure: http://500px.com/photo/20192229

 

[Laura]

full frame or crop?

Canon 5DmkIII. Now that I think about it, it'll probably a shot of mostly the canyon with stars in the upper third. I'll be there in February so hoping for snow as well.

 

[Laura]

Well, does anyone have any suggestions on where is the best place to shoot night shots from the South Rim? Dan? As far as good backpacking locations this month's Backpacker has some rec's.

 

[Dan]

In February, if you aren't doing any hiking, I'd just suggest going and checking out all the different viewpoints by car during the daylight, and frame them up to see what you can get for when it's dark. I imagine one very awesome shot would be looking kind of north-east from Desert View, towards the Palisades, with the river in the canyon bottom, and the stars up high.

But if you are on the S. Rim, there's a lot of viewpoints easily accessible, but besides desert view, I can't think of any that will work great for canyon below, and stars above. Admittedly, I don't spend much time around the South Rim Village, more familiar with the north side and western GC.

 

[Laura]

Cool, thanks! Gorgeous picture!! I'd prefer to shoot from the North Rim because I'll be coming from Zion but I understand the road is not open in winter, so South Rim is my default.

 

[Archbishop]

In February, if you aren't doing any hiking, I'd just suggest going and checking out all the different viewpoints by car during the daylight, and frame them up to see what you can get for when it's dark. I imagine one very awesome shot would be looking kind of north-east from Desert View, towards the Palisades, with the river in the canyon bottom, and the stars up high.

But if you are on the S. Rim, there's a lot of viewpoints easily accessible, but besides desert view, I can't think of any that will work great for canyon below, and stars above. Admittedly, I don't spend much time around the South Rim Village, more familiar with the north side and western GC.

This my friend, is an inspiring shot.

 

[Nick]

My first Grand Canyon backpacking permit application has officially been faxed! After looking into all the great suggestions, I decided to take it up a notch and do a 'backpackaneering' route instead. It's a 4 day loop in the Tuckup Canyon area with at least two technical descents on the agenda; Hades Knoll Canyon (aka East Tuckup) and Rocky Point Canyon. STOKED!! Time to start planning another...

 

[BJett]

Have you done the Tuckup backpack trip yet Nick? We hiked up it quite a ways from the river a few years ago, I scored a non-commerical permit in April and we floated from Lees to Pearce in 23 days. Magical. My favorite side hike on that trip was Tuckup, it had some sketchy climbing at the start but the variety and scenery in there was amazing. Wanted to find the Shamans gallery but that would be tough to do from the river, especially with all that cold beer waiting back at camp on a hot day. I would love to go back and backpack it.