Hayden Valley Loop - Yellowstone National Park - September 17, 2021

scatman

Member
.
Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Messages
3,624
Finishing off my third Pop-tart, I opened the door of the car to a chilling 17 degree morning at the pullout near Trout Creek in Hayden Valley. As I try to bend my cold knees to limber them up a tad, I gaze to the west amazed that this will be my seventh substantial hike into Hayden Valley over the years. After doing the Mary Mountain Trail years ago, I never really thought that I would return, but all my time in Yellowstone has told me that this valley is the heartbeat of the Park, and if I am lucky enough, I will return hopefully another seven times to feel its pulse over and over again.

This day hike was a 21 mile loop that started and ended at Trout Creek essentially. We would head west, following the old stagecoach road up Trout Creek on the south end of the valley. Once we reached the western end of the valley, we would then make our way off-trail to explore Alum Creek as we headed northeast. At the point where Alum Creek almost meets up with the Mary Mountain Trail, we hopped on the trail and headed east on the north end of the valley. Before reaching the road though, we broke off to the south and made our way to Crater Hills and the thermal area located there.

This was @TractorDoc and @wsp_scott 's first time doing a hike in Hayden Valley and I sort of promised them that they would get to see a grizzly or two, but that never panned out for us on this day. Sorry guys! :( This trip turned out to be all about the bison as we ran into four separate herds, along with multiple lone bulls. It will be interesting to hear my two hiking partners impressions of the valley. It certainly is a lot to take in in a singe day. Maybe they will do it again with me sometime in the future. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

I had four goals for this hike, the first being to find the old Army snowshoe cabin, second, to revisit Larry's Lunch Counter, third, to explore Glen Africa Basin, and last, to pick up the stagecoach road that runs north and south to Crater Hills. Fortunately for us, we were able to do all three.

Hayden_Valley_Loop_09_17_21.jpg
Overview map of our 21 mile loop through Hayden Valley

01.jpg
On the old road before the sun has come up. Hint for the day - Frozen sagebrush is hard on the shins. :)

02.jpg
Ah, some sunshine at last. The sun angle brings out the old ruts pretty well in this shot. Heading west though the southern end of the valley

03.jpg
Just think what it must have been like to ride a stagecoach across the valley 140 years ago.

04.jpg
One of the casualties in the valley

05.jpg
This one is more recent

06.jpg
Mount Washburn to the north

07.jpg
This Bull ponders our intent

08.jpg
Gives one the extent of the valley

09.jpg
I always love this view of the old stagecoach roadbed cutting through the hillside

10.jpg
We'll be heading up through the trees ahead, just left of the upper center of this shot

11.jpg
Well, no grizzly sighting on this hike, but we did run into some scat along our way

12.jpg
Watching our every move
13.jpg
The lovely rolling hills of Hayden Valley with Violet Hot Springs off in the distance to the north.

14.jpg
A small piece of a dish or bowl perhaps at Larry's Lunch Counter. Larry's is where stagecoach riders would stop for lunch on their way from Lower Geyser Basin to Lake as they made their way across the Park

15.jpg
Some thick colored glass

16.jpg
The old Army snowshoe cabin

17.jpg
Heading towards Glen Africa Basin

18.jpg
There has been lots of death in the basin. Bones were strewn everywhere.

19.jpg
Thermal feature in Glen Africa

20.jpg
Thermal feature

21.jpg
Thermal feature in the basin

22.jpg
Next up is Alum Creek

23.jpg
Absolutely loved the hike down Alum

24.jpg
The meandering Alum Creek

25.jpg
Alum Creek

26.jpg
Bison at Alum Creek


27.jpg
Alum Creek

28.jpg
More Alum

29.jpg
A collared bison. :( For those who have hiked/backpacked with me can attest, I don't go around the herds, I make my way through them. This might have made Dave and Scott a bit nervous at first, but they caught on quickly. :)

30.jpg
Approaching another herd and the Mary Mountain Trail

31.jpg
Bison in Hayden - it doesn't get any better than that.

32.jpg
A lone bull

33.jpg
Alum Creek viewed from the Mary Mountain Trail

34.jpg
Getting ready to ford Alum Creek on our way to Crater Hills

35.jpg
Picking up the old stagecoach road just to the north of Crater Hills. In the distance, you can make out the ruts crossing the valley

36.jpg
Arriving at Crater Hills

37.jpg
Violently, bubbling thermal pool at Crater Hills

38.jpg
View from the top of Sulphur Mountain

38b.jpg
Looking west from up high

39.jpg
View of the old stagecoach road, heading up the hillside, running to the southeast from Crater Hills

40.jpg
Leaving Crater Hills on the old roadbed

41.jpg
The bluffs above Trout Creek and traffic at a bison jam on the Grand Loop Road

42.jpg
Trout Creek and the Yellowstone River flowing through Hayden Valley near the hikes end.

43.jpg
Trout Creek signpost with @wsp_scott walking the road back to the pullout where we began at the crack of dawn earlier in the day.

Well, this ended a spectacular ten days in Yellowstone for me. I did have one more day hike before heading back to Salt Lake though, as I had left my Steripen :( at the campsite on Gneiss Creek a week ago and I wanted to go back to see if it was still there.

In my opinion, this is the quintessential day hike in the Park. If you are heading to Yellowstone to backpack, or maybe just hit the tourist spots, set aside a day for an exploration of Hayden Valley. I don't think that you will be disappointed.

Dave and Scott, please add some truth, humor and your perspective to this report when you get a chance. The BCP audience needs an accurate account of this, and since you both seem to be facts driven, I will leave it in your hands to sort the chaff from the wheat so to speak. :scatman:


The End
 
Last edited:
Well, I don't know how much more truth I can add to the story and while I'm still working on pictures from our time down in Bechler I did fast forward to highlight a couple favorites.

As Hugh said, it was cold at the trail head. So cold in fact that he chose to eat his pop tarts while still in the car!

5J5A9667.JPG

Once we were on the move though Hugh was often times out of mosey mode and leading the way. If I did not know any better I'd say he's been thru Hayden Valley so many times he is starting to make his own set of ruts. . .

5J5A9711.JPG

At Larry's Lunch Counter we found evidence on the ground of old and new visitors to the area. Check out those leg wounds!

5J5A9735.JPG

Group shot at the old Snowshoe Cabin -- to find it was one of the day's many hilites!

5J5A9749.JPG

Hugh leading the way up Alum Creek as we exited Glen Africa Basin.

5J5A9826.JPG

Scott was not big on having his picture taken, but was an avid picture taker (like myself!)

5J5A9852.JPG

Hey Hugh, I Mustache you a question. . . .

5J5A9853.JPG

Scott and Hugh as we scoped out the first Bison Herd that we passed by.

5J5A9877.JPG

Hugh was not kidding when he says he walks right thru them. When at the first herd and I asked which side we should use to get around them he simply pointed his trekking pole at the center and said "I'm going that way." I followed knowing that if the herd decided to object to our presence I was out of luck, but if a lone bull decided to chase us I could probably outrun Hugh. :)

One of the locals sizing up the strange new invaders.

5J5A9893.JPG

When we reached the Crater Hills area Hugh scampered up Sulfur Mountain (the stagecoach ruts don't go up there Hugh!) and disappeared for a period of time. Scott and I thought we had lost him and were ready to head back to the car. . . until he popped out from behind a rock and all was well with the world again.

Scott as he and I were about to leave Hugh behind.

5J5A0008.JPG

By the time we made it back to the Old Faithful area for supper the sun had dipped down behind the trees. We ordered takeout from the Snow Lodge and while you could not see the table (because it was dark) the spread looked something like this (from the day before).

KIMG1273.JPG

I cannot thank Hugh enough for letting me tag along on this week's adventures, and it was great to meet and get to know Scott as well. Hoping we can continue to experience future adventures in Yellowstone and beyond!
 
Great trip report(s). Now I want to explore the valley. I wont do 21 miles, but sometimes just a teaser is fulfilling. While you all were doing 21 miles in a day, I did 12 weekends in a row, It doesn’t compare , at all, but I saw pretty places and things, too. You’ve certainly convinced me I have to leave the parking lot. Maybe its the pop tarts…
 
21m dayhike...... You're killing me just thinking of that

You could have done this hike @Bob. This was much easier than the 16 miles with a big pack from a few day earlier. It was pretty flat for the most part and easy hiking. The Crater Hills area had some up and down to it, but we were close to the finish line by then. I've seen you in the Beartooths and listened to your Winds adventures, so I'm confident that you would have been just fine on this hike. Besides, you're faster than me on the straightaways anyways. :)
 
+1 on that. How long did this marathon day hike take?

Not 100% sure on this. We started a little after 7:00 am and finished up somewhere between 6:00 and 6:30 ish? @TractorDoc might have the exact total time for the day, but I'd guess 11 to 11.5 hours to complete.
 
Well, I don't know how much more truth I can add to the story and while I'm still working on pictures from our time down in Bechler I did fast forward to highlight a couple favorites.

As Hugh said, it was cold at the trail head. So cold in fact that he chose to eat his pop tarts while still in the car!

View attachment 102291

Once we were on the move though Hugh was often times out of mosey mode and leading the way. If I did not know any better I'd say he's been thru Hayden Valley so many times he is starting to make his own set of ruts. . .

View attachment 102292

At Larry's Lunch Counter we found evidence on the ground of old and new visitors to the area. Check out those leg wounds!

View attachment 102293

Group shot at the old Snowshoe Cabin -- to find it was one of the day's many hilites!

View attachment 102294

Hugh leading the way up Alum Creek as we exited Glen Africa Basin.

View attachment 102295

Scott was not big on having his picture taken, but was an avid picture taker (like myself!)

View attachment 102296

Hey Hugh, I Mustache you a question. . . .

View attachment 102297

Scott and Hugh as we scoped out the first Bison Herd that we passed by.

View attachment 102298

Hugh was not kidding when he says he walks right thru them. When at the first herd and I asked which side we should use to get around them he simply pointed his trekking pole at the center and said "I'm going that way." I followed knowing that if the herd decided to object to our presence I was out of luck, but if a lone bull decided to chase us I could probably outrun Hugh. :)

One of the locals sizing up the strange new invaders.

View attachment 102299

When we reached the Crater Hills area Hugh scampered up Sulfur Mountain (the stagecoach ruts don't go up there Hugh!) and disappeared for a period of time. Scott and I thought we had lost him and were ready to head back to the car. . . until he popped out from behind a rock and all was well with the world again.

Scott as he and I were about to leave Hugh behind.

View attachment 102290

By the time we made it back to the Old Faithful area for supper the sun had dipped down behind the trees. We ordered takeout from the Snow Lodge and while you could not see the table (because it was dark) the spread looked something like this (from the day before).

View attachment 102300

I cannot thank Hugh enough for letting me tag along on this week's adventures, and it was great to meet and get to know Scott as well. Hoping we can continue to experience future adventures in Yellowstone and beyond!

Great pictures Dave, thanks for sharing them. Your mustache picture gives away my secret to wandering through the herds. :) They just thought we were some of the regulars. By the way, that is more hair on my upper lip than I have grown in my 42 combined years of shaving.
 
Great trip report(s). Now I want to explore the valley. I wont do 21 miles, but sometimes just a teaser is fulfilling. While you all were doing 21 miles in a day, I did 12 weekends in a row, It doesn’t compare , at all, but I saw pretty places and things, too. You’ve certainly convinced me I have to leave the parking lot. Maybe its the pop tarts…

12 weekends in a row is fantastic. I know that you were able to make it to some campsites that I have never visited before. Hopefully we will get to read some of your trip reports here soon. :thumbsup:

The Crater Hills area makes for some good exploration without having to hike too many miles. It's well worth a visit if you haven't been before.
 
This was a great day, but really long. I would have been happier if it had ended up being a couple miles shorter, but I'm not sure what I would cut out. The old cabin was the farthest from the road, but that valley was very neat. I'd like to hike farther up the creek to see what is there.

Looking at the map, if I wanted to make a shorter day but still have all the highlights, I'd probable head towards that lake in the middle from Glen Africa and come out near Sulfur Mountain. That would cut out the Mary Mountain and Alum Creek part, but would make for a more "reasonable day".

I think our hike ended up being slightly more than 11 hours. But then a lot of driving to and from Old Faithful, it was a long day. With that said, I highly recommend spending time in the Hayden Valley. It is beautiful from the road, but even better once you start hiking.

P.S. I'm still not convinced there are bears in Yellowstone. I think @scatman planted the scat as a joke :)
 
Perhaps Hugh's Tuna Tortilla and my Savory Sofrito Mussels were not aromatic enough to draw them in.

I'm thinking next time I can sneak a fresh trout in to the ScatPack to see if we get better results.

And here I was thinking that those circus peanuts were the magic attractant that @scatman used for bears … or maybe the bears are catching onto his tricks.
 
And here I was thinking that those circus peanuts were the magic attractant that @scatman used for bears … or maybe the bears are catching onto his tricks.

I think Hugh may have offered to share some of his tuna, but I doubt he would have let go of a peanut even if it was to draw the bears in. :)
 
This was a great day, but really long. I would have been happier if it had ended up being a couple miles shorter, but I'm not sure what I would cut out. The old cabin was the farthest from the road, but that valley was very neat. I'd like to hike farther up the creek to see what is there.

Looking at the map, if I wanted to make a shorter day but still have all the highlights, I'd probable head towards that lake in the middle from Glen Africa and come out near Sulfur Mountain. That would cut out the Mary Mountain and Alum Creek part, but would make for a more "reasonable day".

I think our hike ended up being slightly more than 11 hours. But then a lot of driving to and from Old Faithful, it was a long day. With that said, I highly recommend spending time in the Hayden Valley. It is beautiful from the road, but even better once you start hiking.

P.S. I'm still not convinced there are bears in Yellowstone. I think @scatman planted the scat as a joke :)

I carry my rubber scat around for just such an occasion. :)
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Hayden Valley, Trout Creek, Beach Lake, and Arnica Creek Meadows. September 11, 2022. Hiking & Camping 7
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Hayden Valley in a Day -- September 17 2021 Hiking & Camping 27
uintafly Chepeta Lake to Hayden Pass Trip Planning 0
Blake Merrell UHT 2020 - Leidy to Hayden Backpacking 18
WasatchWill Hayden Lake: A Reverse Relay trip Backpacking 3
DaveW Uinta Highline - Chepeta Lake to Hayden Pass Backpacking 6
Ogden Andy Hayden Peak TH to Chepeta TH in 3 days Backpacking 5
WasatchWill Return to Middle Basin, Hayden Pk, & Bald Mtn Backpacking 13
Blake Merrell Middle Basin w/ a Summit of Hayden Peak Backpacking 6
WasatchWill Hayden Peak, conquered at last! Hiking & Camping 15
Artemus Lunch on Hayden Peak - Uintas Hiking & Camping 9
regehr kayaking death valley On The Water 1
balzaccom Death Valley in January Hiking & Camping 3
B March at Valley of Fire other recommendations in the area Trip Planning 7
BobFink Mirror Plateau via Pelican Valley and Pelican Creek, July / August 2023 Backpacking 12
Ugly Headless Valley- Film about traveling the Nahanni River General Discussion 5
TractorDoc Cuyahoga Valley National Park (again!) 06/04/2023 Hiking & Camping 6
TractorDoc Cuyahoga Valley National Park 05/28/2023 Hiking & Camping 20
wsp_scott Yosemite Valley 2022 Backpacking 12
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Wrangler Lake, Bog Creek, Joseph's Coat Springs, Broad Creek, Wapiti Lake, Hot Springs Basin, and Pelican Valley. The Second Half. Backpacking 15
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Wrangler Lake, Bog Creek, Joseph's Coat Springs, Broad Creek, Wapiti Lake, Hot Springs Basin, and Pelican Valley. Part One of Two. Backpacking 61
D Onion Valley to Whitney Backpacking 7
RyanP Goblin Valley SP Expansion General Discussion 3
K Hello from the Salt Lake Valley Noobs: Introduce yourself! 2
balzaccom Death Valley again Hiking & Camping 0
T Death valley Trip Planning 3
WasatchWill WRHR: Day 3 - 'Desolation Valley' to Halls Lake Backpacking 15
WasatchWill WRHR: Day 2 - Cirque of the Towers to 'Desolation Valley' Backpacking 28
J Death Valley Natl. Pk. Upper Monarch Canyon plus. Dec 1, 2021 Hiking & Camping 1
J Death Valley Natl. Pk. A Black Mtns and Canyons Traverse Nov 30, 2021 Hiking & Camping 2
J Death Valley Natl. Pk. 6 Days hiking. Nov 14-19, 2021 Hiking & Camping 1
travel2walk Lamar River, Pelican Valley, & Speciman Ridge loop - Yellowstone, Jun 29 to Jul 3, 2021 Backpacking 15
J Death Valley National Park and Area Mountain Rambles Dec. 16-17, 2020 Hiking & Camping 0
J Death Valley Natl. Pk: Funeral Pk, Slit Canyon, and Big Dune. Dec 21-22, 2020 Hiking & Camping 1
J Death Valley NP Black Mountains and beyond Hiking Dec 19-20, 2020 Hiking & Camping 1
Burrito Death Valley van trip turns into something pretty special General Discussion 7
beaver-one Yellowstone advice: Lamar River - Pelican Valley - Mirror Plateau loop this summer Trip Planning 6
TheMountainRabbit Lamar River, Mirror Plateau, and Pelican Valley (Yellowstone NP) - mid-September 2020 Backpacking 28
balzaccom Death Valley again Hiking & Camping 4
Arizona Jones Willow Valley Loop Hike, Arizona Canyoneering 8
Miya Death Valley Birthday - Part 2 (3.7.20-03.8.20) Backpacking 15
A Info on Tehipite Valley Trip Planning 1
Miya Death Valley Birthday - Part 1 (3.5.20-3.6.20) Hiking & Camping 28
Kullaberg63 Pack Creek to Castle Valley - below the rim. Backpacking 0
westy Meadow Valley Mountains Backpacking 7
westy Meadow Valley Mountains Hiking & Camping 2
Scott Chandler Death Valley Trip Planning 7
J Death Valley National Park Keene Canyon-Wonder Mine Loop. Dec. 3, 2019 Hiking & Camping 1
J Death Valley Natl Pk Ibex Peak, Jubliee Mtn, Virgin Springs summits Dec. 2, 2019 Hiking & Camping 0
J Death Valley NP: Corkscrew and Artist Palette Peaks, scramble dayhikes Nov 2019 Hiking & Camping 1

Similar threads

Back
Top