dynamic range exposure question

Adding a few thoughts. Pick the best camera you can afford. Learn to use the camera in manual. Experiment with light and shadow. Learn the basics before you start worrying about ND filters, post processing, HDR etc. When you know your camera inside and out, blindfolded, then use the automatic functions if desired. And have fun.
 
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wsp_scott said:
It is a lot harder to think this way if you let your camera pick the metering point.
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I tend to leave my camera in a non-spot metering mode and then, for challenging shots, use manual exposure compensation to avoid blowing out the highlights. Just feels easier. Everyone's mileage will vary.

Should add that I've been having great luck with a Sony RX-100 for the last few years. It has a lot of pixels and in raw mode gets a lot of data. It's definitely a serious compromise vs DSLR but in the end I want something that'll fit into a pants pocket.
 
Venchka said:
Why would anyone choose to not create RAW files?
Wayne
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I used to just do JPEG, but I've been on some trips recently where I felt a strong desire to capture pictures that would help me remember what it felt like out there. And to share some of that feeling with others. So, I'm trying to do that through creating better pictures, and all this advice is invaluable.
 
Wanderlust073 said:
OP what are you shooting with? Pushing shadows is easiest/less chance of resulting in a technicolor horrorfest ala most hdr plugins, but it also tends to add a ton of noise to the shot depending on the camera/sensor.
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I have a Nikon D7000. I took a trip to the sierras in Sept and borrowed and rx100 (so I didn't have to carry the 7000), which I liked a lot, but I kept going back and forth between HDR, DSO, etc and was confused about how some of them turned out. I'm kicking myself for not shooting in RAW, although some of the pictures turned out great, despite me not knowing what I was doing. I just want to be more prepared next time, I don't get out west very often.
 
McKee80 said:
I just want to be more prepared next time, I don't get out west very often.
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Best thing to do, imo, is set the camera to manual mode and raw and just go out shooting every day until you can manipulate the thing without giving it much thought at all. You'll end up with a strong grasp of what it takes to capture a given scene, and when you're out on a trip your chances of getting the shot will be that much better.

Plus it's fun!
 
Wanderlust073 said:
Best thing to do, imo, is set the camera to manual mode and raw and just go out shooting every day until you can manipulate the thing without giving it much thought at all. You'll end up with a strong grasp of what it takes to capture a given scene, and when you're out on a trip your chances of getting the shot will be that much better.

Plus it's fun!
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Plus, you can shoot a LOT. Take two or 200, they are free (albeit a PIA to crawl through all the duds to save the gems, in post)!
 
Artemus said:
Plus, you can shoot a LOT. Take two or 200, they are free (albeit a PIA to crawl through all the duds to save the gems, in post)!
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Bracket. I usually start at -1 stop (Zone 4 for you old timers), and increase the aperture 1/3 stop at a time until +1. Like Art said, the shots are free.
 
You bracket by changing aperture instead of shutter speed? Doesn't the changing depth of field drive you nuts?
 
Depends. I should have been more specific, I hope I don't get too preachy. This way of setting the exposure works for me.
ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Hand held (which is most of time for me, especially backpacking, or in my canoe) I generally change the aperture as I want a fast enough shutter speed. The difference in DOF between f/8 and f/16 is minimal I have found. On a tripod I am usually unconcerned with shutter speed, so I will use the shutter to alter the exposure. I also change the ISO when needed, trying not to exceed 200, gives me a lot of latitude in the exposure. I always shoot in manual, more flexibility, and control. Reference my post above.
 
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