Arizona Petroglyph Chase

napatony13

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Feb 5, 2021
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I recently saw an announcement about the imminent closing of Rock Art Ranch near Holbrook, AZ. Visiting there had been on my "bucket list" for years, so I made a reservation for their final day (12/07) and threw together a quick trip with plans to visit a few other sites in the vicinity. A few of these (RAR included) hardly qualify as hikes, but several were long enough to warrant a report. First just a couple shots of RAR...if you didn't get a chance to visit you really missed out. The petroglyphs were nice, but there little museum of relics they'd found on the property was incredible.
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From there I headed east, and with a bit of daylight left I decided to try to locate a well-known panel along the Little Colorado River. I had a GPS waypoint for this site and was able to reach the cliffs after a short, easy hike. I began seeing glyphs almost immediately and the cliff band wasn't that extensive, so I figured I was home free. I was wrong. I reached the GPS point where it was supposed to be and no dice. So I started making loops and expanding my search area up and down the riverbank. There were more glyphs there than I realized, but I couldn't find the one I was looking for. Eventually I climbed up into a shallow cove and noticed a big slab that looked like a billboard. I intently made may way there, feeling this had to be it, only to be disappointed again. With daylight waning I decided to make one more pass and looped the big slab, first heading north, then backtracking to the south. As I crossed over my previous track all of a sudden there it was! I had been so intent on getting to the "big slab" I had overlooked my target off on my right side..."The Mother of Game":
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Greatly relieved, I hiked back to the truck and followed a nice dirt road in the direction of Petrified Forest NP. I slept right outside the Park and was the first person in when the gates opened the next morning. After a brief stop at the Park museum I made my way to the starting point for my first hike. Parking on the shoulder of the road, I headed off towards another set of GPS waypoints. There were no trails, but an occasional shoeprint told me I wasn't the only person who had wandered out this way. After a couple miles a small but prominent butte came into view, and my track led directly to it. There was no drama this time, my target came into view from a fair ways out, an impressive spiral:


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As I made my way around the butte, a few more small panels were found, but none quite as noteworthy as the spiral. I then continued onward, to a final GPS point I had highlighted on my map. This one was kind of a mystery...I had it colored blue which meant I felt it was better than average, but had no recollection of what exactly I was hoping to see. After trudging through the dry washes for another mile or so I could see I was heading for a rocky outcrop on the point of a low mesa. Once there, I immediately began finding panels, but upon reaching the far end there was nothing that matched my blue pin. So I carefully worked my way back the way I had come, taking a bit lower route. Then as I passed a large boulder I turned to see what was on the backside and there it was...very impressive:
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Quite satisfied, I began tracing my route back to my truck. At one point I noticed quite a bit of colorful rock and petrified wood at my feet, so I decided to compose a picture of it. As I stooped down my gaze left the gaudier materials and picked up a small but unmistakable pottery sherd, then another and another.IMG_5131.JPG
Finding this odd, I quickly scanned my surroundings looking for anything that looked like it might have been a habitation site. Nothing looked remotely possible, so I was a bit perplexed. But after walking another 75' or so I turned to look up the low sand dune on my right side and bingo:IMG_5132.JPG
Just one room from what I could tell with no real reason I could see for being there, but I guess someone called it home:
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I made a quick pass through the closest boulders and found one interesting glyph, this "belted" deer?
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One back to my truck I headed towards the Park's north entrance and stopped when I reached the Painted Desert Inn. From here I would take my final hike and attempt to find the Flatiron Panel. After a steep initial descent I was once again out amongst the flat, dry desert washes, and again found myself tracking towards a prominent butte. In a repeat performance my GPS track was slightly misaligned, and I completely circled that butte, not finding the panel until almost all the way back to where I had started. But I found it and it was as good as I had hoped:
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Mission accomplished, I headed back towards my truck. Once back up on top I stopped in at the Inn. In their lobby they have a famous mountain lion petroglyph that was removed from the Park back in the early days to protect it. It was a shame it couldn't be seen in its original location, but I'm happy that it's protected and in a place where others can see how remarkable the rock art in this area is.
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Awesome pottery @napatony13 at Rock Art Ranch. Thrilled you got to see it on their final day of being open. You will always remember that day. Yah, we missed out. I saw the final notice, we were 8 hours away and I didn’t call to make a reservation, bummer. So thanks for sharing the photos. Now, did you hear anything from the owners about what they intend to do with their extensive pottery collection in the future?

The Little Colorado River search : that pretty much sums up RA searching in Az :) And PEFO is an awesome NP!
 
Now, did you hear anything from the owners about what they intend to do with their extensive pottery collection in the future?

The Little Colorado River search : that pretty much sums up RA searching in Az :) And PEFO is an awesome NP!
It was mentioned that some portion of it was going to be given to a small. local museum, but I didn't hear any details. They mentioned several times that they had things that the Smithsonian really wanted, but didn't indicate that was going to happen.
 
And that is an impressive collection of pottery--although I can't help thinking about where it would have been found...

So, what's the future for all that stuff?
That's just a small sample of what they had, there were two rooms stuffed with artifacts, all found on the ranch. It all started when the ranch owner (now in his 80s) was a young boy out on the range on his horse. He saw something white partially sticking out of a sand dune. He ended up unearthing a very large intact jar. I didn't hear the details, but it sounded like at least some of the collection would find its way to a small, local museum. One of the most unique things there was a small, squarish decorative pot. In native pottery square is rare (harder to make, harder to clean after use) and the one they have may be the only one in existence.
 
Does anyone know what will happen to the Rock Art Ranch? Are they selling it or just don't want to do the tours anymore?
 
Does anyone know what will happen to the Rock Art Ranch? Are they selling it or just don't want to do the tours anymore?
They didn't mention any future plans about selling, but if they did given how much they care for the ranch I would have to think they would take any future owner's intentions into account when making that decision and select someone intent on conservation. I'm sure tough choices lie ahead...ranching out in that remote, desert country had to be tough and not something with a lot of appeal to the younger generation.
 
They didn't mention any future plans about selling, but if they did given how much they care for the ranch I would have to think they would take any future owner's intentions into account when making that decision and select someone intent on conservation. I'm sure tough choices lie ahead...ranching out in that remote, desert country had to be tough and not something with a lot of appeal to the younger generation.

Could this area be a candidate for a small National Monument, or National Conservation Area, if the land was purchased by the government ?
 
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Could this area be a candidate for a small National Monument, or National Conservation Area, if the land was purchased by the government ?
I would think there might be some possibility of that. I stopped at the Crane Petroglyph Heritage Site on my way there (which I think the State or Forest Service manage) and other than being more accessible is not as impressive. But I talked with a local familiar with the area and she mentioned several incredible spots just outside PFNP that the Park has interest in acquiring. She says the landowners have no interest in these deals, as the government only wants the few acres of property that hold the best stuff and are only willing to pay what bare land is worth. It's just not worth carving out small chunks of their ranches and giving up control of access.
 
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