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- Aug 23, 2016
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Another trip to the Apostle Islands. This time without Stacy--she was having shoulder issues and didn't feel up to it. We definitely missed her. But, as Ken said, at least it will be a more relaxed trip since we won't have to worry about keeping up with Stacy!
Click here to view on CalTopo
Day 1 Drive to Red Cliff and paddle to Quarry Bay, Stockton Island
We put in at the Legendary Waters Casino on the Red Cliff Indian Reservation again. There was a last-minute crisis, however, as they no longer allow you to launch kayaks and park over night--used to be a reasonable fee for this. But they said if we paid $32 per night for camping they would allow it. Since we had driven up from Madison that morning and still had a 10 mile paddle to our first camp we didn't have time to investigate other options. We coughed up the cash.
Great weather for paddling. We made good time but by the time we got there and got camp set up we were eating dinner in the dark. Probably a good thing in the end. The mosquitoes were absolutely horrible and it cooled off just enough as we were eating dinner that we were able to take our headnets off. Nothing quite like trying to eat while wearing a headnet.
Day 2 Hiking on Stockton Island
We hiked across the island an area of beautiful beaches and a large lagoon and bog.
Lots of ladyslippers in the sandy soil.
Pitcher plants in the bog
Tannic bog water mixing with Lake Superior. You can just barely see the opening to the lagoon ahead. I got into quicksand wading across the inlet and got pretty wet.
Lagoon on the left, Lake Superior on the right. You can really see how the dunes keep the lagoon and lake separate.
Mystery tracks on the beach. Later we saw an otter. We think these are otter tracks.
There are lots of bears on the islands but we have hardly ever seen any. All the islands have at least transient bear populations. Amazing considering they would have to swim miles of open water to get to any of the islands.
More island flora
Ken making a commercial for Deep Woods Off. The mosquitoes were bad this year but most of the time we were in camp we had decent wind to keep them down so we didn't suffer too badly.
The established campsites in the Apostle Islands are set up nicely. They all have bear boxes; most have picnic tables. Scalloped potatoes for dinner tonight. Ken left the dried potatoes soaking all day. Here he's chopping onions and garlic.
Day 3 Paddle to Outer Island
Off to Outer Island next. We had some light rain but no wind to speak of.
Waterfall on small blackwater stream. The tannins gave the waterfall a strange color.
Outer Island in the distance
It was still raining when we landed and the wind picked up significantly. The rain stopped just as we got the tarp set up. Fortunately, the wind continued and kept the mosquitoes down
We were absolutely starving and cooked up a huge pot of noodles for dinner.
We walked around the sand spit area of Outer Island after dinner. Stockton Island, where we camped last night, is visible to the right
The campsite is on the right side of the spit down a ways along the trees.
Day 4 Paddle to Ironwood Island via Cat Island
Today turned out to be a good demonstration of Lake Superior weather. We had a windy morning at camp but the wind died and stayed calm for about half the day. Then it came up moderately out of the east. At some point in the late afternoon it switched to the west and increased significantly, then died down again at sunset. It was partly cloudy in the morning then overcast then raining on and off. It cleared up through the afternoon and was warm and sunny for a few hours. Then more storms rolled through with clearing again right around sunset.
Cold this morning and a little windy but no rain. Again, in camp, wind is our friend.
Looking across to Cat Island. The wind died just as we were getting in the boats to head out and we made the first half of the day with almost no wind. We paddled around to the northernmost beach on the west side of the Outer Island spit and took a pee break before heading across to Cat Island. I had noticed on the satellite imagery what appeared to be a nice beach on the east side of Cat so we went to check it out. The paddle to Cat is the longest open water crossing at 4 mi.
There were several rain showers on the way across. We could see and hear them coming from a good distance. One great thing about sea kayaking is that rain just doesn't matter. You are nicely buttoned up in your boat with your sprayskirt and a rain jacket over that. All your gear is in drybags in watertight compartments. The water just runs off while you paddle along.
We found our beach just as the weather started clearing.
I don't think I have seen more interesting gray skies than on this trip
By the time we headed for the southern end of Cat Island it had almost completely cleared up.
We stopped briefly at the Cat Island spit and then headed for tonight's camp at Ironwood Is. The wind came up again. Tailwind!
It was warm and sunny at Ironwood so we took the opportunity to get in the water. It's Lake Superior in June so just run in and run out. In the time it took us to unload the boats the wind changed 180 degrees and increased to about 15 mph. We have really been lucking out with the wind on this trip.
Another of Chef Ken's creations.
Before we finished cooking another set of storms came through. We got the tarp up ahead of the rain and enjoyed dinner in comfort. Very interesting light near sunset.
And a nice sunset
Day 5 Short day to Rocky Island
Wind came up over night. Would *probably* be safe to paddle today but we'd be fighting a horrible headwind. Wind was predicted to die down in late afternoon so we decided to just wait. Not a long day today so no problem.
At some point in the afternoon a couple of guys showed up in a powerboat. They had the campsite reserved for tonight. By then the wind had died down to a reasonable level so we loaded up and set out for Rocky Island. A few rain showers off in the distance.
There was a party of four at our campsite on Rocky. They were in the same position as we were, waiting for the wind to die down. They were really hoping no one would show up and they could just stay there another night. We dashed their hopes, I'm afraid. Those rain showers we saw while paddling across kept coming so we put up the tarp again.
Ken's signature dish--chicken and dumplings.
Finally cleared up for the night and we got another rainbow
Day 6 Out to Devil's Island then to Bear Island
Any time you have a good weather window you should go see Devil's Island. It has nice sea cliffs/caves and a cool old lighthouse. But if the weather turns you can get in trouble fast. The weather for today looked perfect so we made the trip.
On the way to Devil's Island
There is a small artificial harbor, slowly being destroyed by storms, where you can find just enough shelter to land a kayak. We took a short break here then paddled around the island back to here. There is a hiking trail that leads to the lighthouse at the north end of the island. After paddling around the island we hiked across and had lunch at the lighthouse.
Making our way up the east side of the island
Interesting rock formations on the north side. The waves were really strange here. Not large but they were reflecting off the cliffs and made it hard to let go of the paddle to take pictures.
A bog in the center of the island. The white flowers are Labrador tea, a type of rhododendron
Lighthouse keepers residence
And the lighthouse. Not in use any more.
While we were there a tour boat came by.
Headed out of the harbor. Bear Island up ahead
I had seen this beach on the satellite image and wanted to visit. Ken had been here long ago but did not camp here. We had planned to camp here on previous trips but the beach is pretty exposed and the weather did not look good enough to chance it. The weather looked perfect this time so we made the trip.
When the park was first established there were summer homes on some of the islands including this one. The park service bought the owners out (owners had no choice in the matter) and the houses are slowly being reclaimed by nature.
Walked past the beach to a rocky shoreline and found this interesting point.
Day 7 Paddle to Oak Island
Relatively short paddle to Oak Island today. Started off cool and gray again
On the beach at Oak Island campsite. Bear and Devil's in the distance. We were camped on the far side of Bear Island, around the right side.
Our campsite on Oak Is. Some rain showers again. I think we set up the tarp at every campsite this trip.
From the lookout on Oak Island looking east. In the distance is Outer Island then Cat then Ironwood. Manitou Island is on the right. We did not go there this trip.
Day 8 Paddle back to Red Cliff
A sailboat dropped anchor last night. The area near our campsite is an excellent anchorage during southerly winds. The wind was predicted to be from the south last night and strengthening out of the south today. It looked like we were in for some work when we came out from behind Oak Island.
But here we are at the southern tip of Oak Island without a puff of wind to be seen! We took a very short break and got right back to paddling. We had almost a dead calm until maybe half a mile of Red Cliff. I think this was the easiest last day paddling ever.
Another great trip to the Apostles. We sure missed Stacy but look forward to paddling with her again in the future. The weather was great in the sense that we were only windbound for part of one day. We were able to do all the paddling we had hoped to do--something not ever guaranteed on Lake Superior! Writing this report I started thinking that we had a lot of rain. I guess we sort of did but except for our arrival on Outer Island we never had to set up or break camp in the rain. Paddling in the rain is a complete non-issue and we had the tarp for cooking and hanging out at camp. All in all hard to ask for better weather. Looking forward to next year!
Click here to view on CalTopo
Day 1 Drive to Red Cliff and paddle to Quarry Bay, Stockton Island
We put in at the Legendary Waters Casino on the Red Cliff Indian Reservation again. There was a last-minute crisis, however, as they no longer allow you to launch kayaks and park over night--used to be a reasonable fee for this. But they said if we paid $32 per night for camping they would allow it. Since we had driven up from Madison that morning and still had a 10 mile paddle to our first camp we didn't have time to investigate other options. We coughed up the cash.
Great weather for paddling. We made good time but by the time we got there and got camp set up we were eating dinner in the dark. Probably a good thing in the end. The mosquitoes were absolutely horrible and it cooled off just enough as we were eating dinner that we were able to take our headnets off. Nothing quite like trying to eat while wearing a headnet.
Day 2 Hiking on Stockton Island
We hiked across the island an area of beautiful beaches and a large lagoon and bog.
Lots of ladyslippers in the sandy soil.
Pitcher plants in the bog
Tannic bog water mixing with Lake Superior. You can just barely see the opening to the lagoon ahead. I got into quicksand wading across the inlet and got pretty wet.
Lagoon on the left, Lake Superior on the right. You can really see how the dunes keep the lagoon and lake separate.
Mystery tracks on the beach. Later we saw an otter. We think these are otter tracks.
There are lots of bears on the islands but we have hardly ever seen any. All the islands have at least transient bear populations. Amazing considering they would have to swim miles of open water to get to any of the islands.
More island flora
Ken making a commercial for Deep Woods Off. The mosquitoes were bad this year but most of the time we were in camp we had decent wind to keep them down so we didn't suffer too badly.
The established campsites in the Apostle Islands are set up nicely. They all have bear boxes; most have picnic tables. Scalloped potatoes for dinner tonight. Ken left the dried potatoes soaking all day. Here he's chopping onions and garlic.
Day 3 Paddle to Outer Island
Off to Outer Island next. We had some light rain but no wind to speak of.
Waterfall on small blackwater stream. The tannins gave the waterfall a strange color.
Outer Island in the distance
It was still raining when we landed and the wind picked up significantly. The rain stopped just as we got the tarp set up. Fortunately, the wind continued and kept the mosquitoes down
We were absolutely starving and cooked up a huge pot of noodles for dinner.
We walked around the sand spit area of Outer Island after dinner. Stockton Island, where we camped last night, is visible to the right
The campsite is on the right side of the spit down a ways along the trees.
Day 4 Paddle to Ironwood Island via Cat Island
Today turned out to be a good demonstration of Lake Superior weather. We had a windy morning at camp but the wind died and stayed calm for about half the day. Then it came up moderately out of the east. At some point in the late afternoon it switched to the west and increased significantly, then died down again at sunset. It was partly cloudy in the morning then overcast then raining on and off. It cleared up through the afternoon and was warm and sunny for a few hours. Then more storms rolled through with clearing again right around sunset.
Cold this morning and a little windy but no rain. Again, in camp, wind is our friend.
Looking across to Cat Island. The wind died just as we were getting in the boats to head out and we made the first half of the day with almost no wind. We paddled around to the northernmost beach on the west side of the Outer Island spit and took a pee break before heading across to Cat Island. I had noticed on the satellite imagery what appeared to be a nice beach on the east side of Cat so we went to check it out. The paddle to Cat is the longest open water crossing at 4 mi.
There were several rain showers on the way across. We could see and hear them coming from a good distance. One great thing about sea kayaking is that rain just doesn't matter. You are nicely buttoned up in your boat with your sprayskirt and a rain jacket over that. All your gear is in drybags in watertight compartments. The water just runs off while you paddle along.
We found our beach just as the weather started clearing.
I don't think I have seen more interesting gray skies than on this trip
By the time we headed for the southern end of Cat Island it had almost completely cleared up.
We stopped briefly at the Cat Island spit and then headed for tonight's camp at Ironwood Is. The wind came up again. Tailwind!
It was warm and sunny at Ironwood so we took the opportunity to get in the water. It's Lake Superior in June so just run in and run out. In the time it took us to unload the boats the wind changed 180 degrees and increased to about 15 mph. We have really been lucking out with the wind on this trip.
Another of Chef Ken's creations.
Before we finished cooking another set of storms came through. We got the tarp up ahead of the rain and enjoyed dinner in comfort. Very interesting light near sunset.
And a nice sunset
Day 5 Short day to Rocky Island
Wind came up over night. Would *probably* be safe to paddle today but we'd be fighting a horrible headwind. Wind was predicted to die down in late afternoon so we decided to just wait. Not a long day today so no problem.
At some point in the afternoon a couple of guys showed up in a powerboat. They had the campsite reserved for tonight. By then the wind had died down to a reasonable level so we loaded up and set out for Rocky Island. A few rain showers off in the distance.
There was a party of four at our campsite on Rocky. They were in the same position as we were, waiting for the wind to die down. They were really hoping no one would show up and they could just stay there another night. We dashed their hopes, I'm afraid. Those rain showers we saw while paddling across kept coming so we put up the tarp again.
Ken's signature dish--chicken and dumplings.
Finally cleared up for the night and we got another rainbow
Day 6 Out to Devil's Island then to Bear Island
Any time you have a good weather window you should go see Devil's Island. It has nice sea cliffs/caves and a cool old lighthouse. But if the weather turns you can get in trouble fast. The weather for today looked perfect so we made the trip.
On the way to Devil's Island
There is a small artificial harbor, slowly being destroyed by storms, where you can find just enough shelter to land a kayak. We took a short break here then paddled around the island back to here. There is a hiking trail that leads to the lighthouse at the north end of the island. After paddling around the island we hiked across and had lunch at the lighthouse.
Making our way up the east side of the island
Interesting rock formations on the north side. The waves were really strange here. Not large but they were reflecting off the cliffs and made it hard to let go of the paddle to take pictures.
A bog in the center of the island. The white flowers are Labrador tea, a type of rhododendron
Lighthouse keepers residence
And the lighthouse. Not in use any more.
While we were there a tour boat came by.
Headed out of the harbor. Bear Island up ahead
I had seen this beach on the satellite image and wanted to visit. Ken had been here long ago but did not camp here. We had planned to camp here on previous trips but the beach is pretty exposed and the weather did not look good enough to chance it. The weather looked perfect this time so we made the trip.
When the park was first established there were summer homes on some of the islands including this one. The park service bought the owners out (owners had no choice in the matter) and the houses are slowly being reclaimed by nature.
Walked past the beach to a rocky shoreline and found this interesting point.
Day 7 Paddle to Oak Island
Relatively short paddle to Oak Island today. Started off cool and gray again
On the beach at Oak Island campsite. Bear and Devil's in the distance. We were camped on the far side of Bear Island, around the right side.
Our campsite on Oak Is. Some rain showers again. I think we set up the tarp at every campsite this trip.
From the lookout on Oak Island looking east. In the distance is Outer Island then Cat then Ironwood. Manitou Island is on the right. We did not go there this trip.
Day 8 Paddle back to Red Cliff
A sailboat dropped anchor last night. The area near our campsite is an excellent anchorage during southerly winds. The wind was predicted to be from the south last night and strengthening out of the south today. It looked like we were in for some work when we came out from behind Oak Island.
But here we are at the southern tip of Oak Island without a puff of wind to be seen! We took a very short break and got right back to paddling. We had almost a dead calm until maybe half a mile of Red Cliff. I think this was the easiest last day paddling ever.
Another great trip to the Apostles. We sure missed Stacy but look forward to paddling with her again in the future. The weather was great in the sense that we were only windbound for part of one day. We were able to do all the paddling we had hoped to do--something not ever guaranteed on Lake Superior! Writing this report I started thinking that we had a lot of rain. I guess we sort of did but except for our arrival on Outer Island we never had to set up or break camp in the rain. Paddling in the rain is a complete non-issue and we had the tarp for cooking and hanging out at camp. All in all hard to ask for better weather. Looking forward to next year!
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