Abrasion-proof pack repair?

fossana

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Jan 11, 2018
Messages
668
I tend to shred the bottom of my packs from sandstone abrasion. I had been using Seam Grip with various repair tapes, but they eventually peel off and sewn-on repairs will likely do the same. I may try some paint-on boot repair goop, Boot Guard, that I bought to reinforce my trail runners. Does anyone have any methods for a more permanent repair?
 

RyanP

Formerly bob32
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Mar 1, 2015
Messages
433
I don't have any insight to directly answer your question (I'm interested to see what others say), but on one trip where I knew I would be doing a lot of lifting/lowering, I bought one of these, which was just barely large enough for my ULA Ohm and it worked quite well: https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/frakta-storage-bag-blue-90149148/. That adds 6 oz or so though, and it was kind of annoying to deal with, so I imagine some reinforcement like you're talking about would probably be a better idea for most people.
 

fossana

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Jan 11, 2018
Messages
668
For a smaller pack I once reinforced the bottom with rubber bike tubes, which worked quite well. I haven't attempted it on an overnight pack though. The abrasion is mostly around the periphery of the base, so it might also work.
 

AWR

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Mar 8, 2015
Messages
23
I've used Shoe Goo w/ excellent results. The key is cleaning the area w/ soap & H2O, letting it dry, and then use alcohol to clean it again. Using multiple thin layers works best. Reapply as needed.
 

regehr

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Mar 28, 2012
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1,879
For a smaller pack I once reinforced the bottom with rubber bike tubes, which worked quite well. I haven't attempted it on an overnight pack though. The abrasion is mostly around the periphery of the base, so it might also work.
cool idea!! sandstone abrasion is the main thing destroying my packs also.
 

futurafree

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Apr 1, 2021
Messages
93
I'm curious what materials your packs are made of that are shredding. I always wince and expect my fairly beefy DCF hybrid packs to sustain damage from sandstone, but I've found that they always come out fine. It's the bushwhacking and stabbing by broken bush/tree branches that does all the damage to my older Zpacks Arc Haul and my friend's HMG Southwest 3400. I have a bunch of unconvincing bits of gear tape and duct tape that are hopelessly temporary fixes, but even most of the bushwhacking damage is limited to the pouch mesh or thinner material solid side pockets--not the main body.
On the other hand, I have a non-hybrid DCF ground cloth that was damaged last week simply from the "paperweight" rocks I used in the Escalante to keep it from blowing away. The starting material seems to make a huge difference.
Anyway, your boot guard idea sounds like the best solution unless you want to try something like sew part of an old ursack across the bottom.
 

fossana

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Jan 11, 2018
Messages
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My overnight pack is an HMG Southwest 3400. I have a few tears in the side pockets from from my last trip, but there was quite a bit of bushwhacking. I think Ryan is correct, in that it's the pack hauling that are doing the damage to the periphery of the base. I avoid mesh pocks on pack b/c they tend to get shredded. One of the most durable (yet light) daypacks I own is the Black Diamond Distance. I've used it now for ~400 desert/alpine trail/scrambling miles, and there is barely any sign of abrasion damage other than the shock cords (an easy fix).
 

futurafree

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Apr 1, 2021
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That Black Diamond Distance looks really nice and bomber. If you try the boot guard or sewing another layer of fabric on the base of your HMG, please post pics and report back as to how it performed. I used to instantly throw out anything in my life and buy a new one at the first signs of wear, but since I've gotten deep into wilderness trips everything I own has holes in it and I try to keep gear and clothing as long as possible if it still functions.
 

Bob

Trailmaster
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Mar 3, 2013
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3,434
Buy light weight material pack.... It will wear out faster.. These new fabrics aren't made for dragging them off trail
 

Brendan S

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Mar 19, 2016
Messages
398
Sandstone abrasion is easily the hardest thing out there on a pack. Full woven dyneema/DCF is the gold standard and pretty much impossible to put a hole in but also impossible to get. The new-ish Challenge Ultraweave is probably the best thing currently available for backpacks. It's 66% dyneema and should be effectively as good as full. Rockywoods and Ripstop by the Roll sell 200d/400d/800d (at Rockywoods sold as Diamondhide). My current pack is VX50 which has a 500d cordura face fabric and it's held up great for several years.

For an existing pack with holes, if you are planning to use it for a long time I'd probably buy some new fabric and find someone who can put in a new pack bottom for you. Otherwise probably keep going with the shoe goo until you're ready to replace.

Pack fabrics aren't a place to save weight for canyon country. A pack only uses about a yard of fabric so the difference between a 3oz DCF and an 8.5 oz 800d Ultraweave is only a few ounces and the increase in durability for pack hauling and tight canyons is beyond substantial.
 

fossana

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Jan 11, 2018
Messages
668
I don't need an entire new pack bottom yet. I also have a heavy duty sewing machine, but I don't think it's the right form factor to be able to access a pack bottom.

I switched to a haul bag material for my canyoneering pack (just like the Euros). Even heavy, high denier nylon fabrics gets shredded on sandstone. On a single route with a squeeze section the sandstone cut through my nylon strap.
 

Brendan S

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Joined
Mar 19, 2016
Messages
398
I don't need an entire new pack bottom yet. I also have a heavy duty sewing machine, but I don't think it's the right form factor to be able to access a pack bottom.

I switched to a haul bag material for my canyoneering pack (just like the Euros). Even heavy, high denier nylon fabrics gets shredded on sandstone. On a single route with a squeeze section the sandstone cut through my nylon strap.
What kind of pack is it? if you're able to remove the frame you should be able to turn it inside-out and put in a new bottom with any machine that can handle the layers when you're ready.
 

fossana

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Jan 11, 2018
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668
What kind of pack is it? if you're able to remove the frame you should be able to turn it inside-out and put in a new bottom with any machine that can handle the layers when you're ready.
You're right. I didn't realize I could remove the stays.
 

fossana

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Jan 11, 2018
Messages
668
Reporting back after my experimentation. I originally tried the bike tube reinforcement, but I couldn't find an adhesive that worked well with both rubber and nylon. I ended up coating the bottom of my pack with 2 coats of KG's Boot Guard. The annoyances are that it doesn't dry smooth on the nylon parts (potentially from off-gassing) and the solution dries up relatively quickly after unsealing the container (instructions say 7 days). At any rate it held up well over granite and was faster than sewing/patching. Sandstone will be the true test, but that will have wait until the fall.
 

Wyatt Carson

Desert Vagabond
Joined
Apr 15, 2015
Messages
328
Barge cement will hold a patch and not peel off for me. Put it on the patch and the pack, then press together. I try real hard not to drag the pack on sandstone if possible. It does immediately eat it.
 
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