- Joined
- Dec 11, 2015
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- 2,077
The trip started with my wife and I going to a Neil Young concert in Bend Oregon. I then drove the rental from Portland, driving to the Jackson airport to drop it off, and hitchhiking to my starting point. The hitchhiking went great and I arrived at my starting point way sooner than expected. As we approached my starting location, there was a bison jam and the couple giving me a ride wanted to stop so I exited the vehicle with them and I walked the final 100 yards or so to my destination, left the road, and started my trip.
I usually come here this time of the year to catch the elk rut, and bugling bulls. I know I’ll be passing through some fine elk country and am optimistic for my chances of elk bugling all night. We’ll see.
This trek was an-off-trail trip starting in an area of the park I have been near before, but never through. The last 2-3 days overlapped with past
trips. As anyone who has ventured off-trail in the forests there, the terrain and travelling conditions are pretty amenable to such a trip, with
stretches of regenerating, or “doghair” lodgepole pine forest. These can be slow-going to frustrating to nearly impenetrable. The doghair I
traveled on this trip tended toward the slow-going.
Within a few minutes, I crossed this water and continued across the meadow as a lone bison meandered through the trees bordering it.
No matter where you hike here, there’s never a shortage of bones from past residents.
Although the odds of someone seeing me as I hiked through the meadow were slim, entering the trees ahead meant I was leaving the masses
behind, at least for a few days. If all went well, I would not see another human for nearly a week.
Before I could reach the trees, I hiked past this old wolf scat. I hoped to see one or more wolves along the way.
As soon as I reached the trees, I passed one of them that had suffered some recent damage from a bull elk.
One last look back. No sign of the road or anyone. Soon after this I hear a lone wolf howling.
It didn’t take long for evidence of recent bear activity. I completed a trip here about 6 weeks ago and it was
obvious that the year’s berry crop was going to be dismal. With little to no berries, the bears are left with few
options for high calorie foods. Insects will be high on their menu list.
I continue through the scattered trees to a creek, where I soon pass a recent elk wallow.
I end up passing through this wet meadow. This is one of the few places I’ve seen cattails here.
After leaving the meadow, I find this elk trail and follow it over a low spot on the ridge.
And down the other side which takes me to a meadow, bear scat, a couple ponds, and a bear-scarred lodgepole
pine. I also heard several wolves howling from the ridge as I hiked through the meadow.
I end up in a small opening loaded with bear sign and I finally find a recent black bear track.
A couple of pillaged yellow jacket ground nests and one of many logs torn open for insects.
After looking around a bit more, I set up camp and eat. A light rain fell intermittently during the night.
My route ahead.
A short time later, I am looking back at the small opening and the upper pond.
It’s slow going through a mix of lodgepole and spruce. Another elk wallow, some elk scat, and pearly everlasting flowers.
On day 2, the hiking becomes a little more challenging as I travel a few miles passing through several
different stands of lodgepole, some easier than others.
At one point, I heard a cow elk bark the alarm and elk bounding off and a few moments later pick up
the scent of elk piss. I never glimpsed any of them.
Much of the ground is littered with pitchstone and occasionally, I pass a larger specimen.
Surprisingly, one of the unnatural items that I typically find off-trail at some point are the remains of mylar
balloons. Good to see that I’m #1.
I also find lots of bear scats. No berries in them this year but many have remnants of whitebark pine seeds, which are
vital to the grizzlies.
Eventually the terrain flattens a bit and the forest opens up. A few whitebark pine seedlings are doing well in the open canopy.
Soon after, I cross a trail, trip my way through a small lodgepole thicket, and then the forest opens as I near my campsite.
The next morning, I take my time breaking camp and heading out. On day 1 the weather started out sunny, became cloudy,
rained lightly then ended up sunny. Today started out really nice with clouds, and I hope my luck continues. Ahead are more
miles of lodgepole stands of varying difficulty.
Not too far from camp.
Eventually, the forest opens up and the next few days will be much easier traveling.
I excitedly approach a large meadow that will hopefully allow me to make good time as I have had a long way to go
today. I reach the creek that drains the meadow and it has some interesting features. It is narrow and looks
to be 4-6 feet deep with sections of slow and deep pools. Luckily, just downstream from here it chokes down to
a trickle that I can step over.
Ahead the clouds are approaching from the west but in the northeast, it is beautiful.
This is the creek at the upper end of the meadow. I am headed for the low ridge behind the meadow.
As soon as I enter the forest, the bear sign becomes plentiful.
The hike up and the view back.
Another game trail and the telltale elk track. I haven’t seen or heard any elk but I have smelled them a few times.
The ground is littered with pitchstone fragments.
And some larger specimens.
I’m on the ridge and making relatively good time.
Porcupine damage.
Bear activity and elk scat.
Elk tracks
Cruising terrain & forest.
One of a few ponds along the ridge.
A drying pond and elk wallow.
Spruce & lodgepole forest & pinedrops.
More bear sign.
Lots of bear trees.
I watered up here.
Getting late and still a ways to go.
Sunset.
Another beautiful morning and some frost.
More lodgepoles. Relatively thick for this stretch. From here on out, with a few exceptions, the regenerating
lodgepole really thins out, the spruce forests are fairly open and the terrain is great for off-trail hiking.
A dormant fumarole.
I reach a small thermal area and wander around a bit.
I could easily spend an hour here but today is a long day to the next camp so I move on.
By mid-September the wildflowers are pretty scarce so I appreciated the sighting of this Indian paintbrush.
I hit a stretch with several clusters of huckleberry shrubs. There’s no evidence of any berries though.
I pass a few more thermal features.
More huckleberry shrubs.
And more thermal activity.
I finally approach a lake I wanted to visit and load up on water.
I load up on water and head out again, following a game trail away from the lake.
Such an inviting forest to hike through.
The last day and some I have walked through a crazy amount of pocket gopher activity. Some areas are so
churned up it’s hard to walk through without breaking through their tunnels.
A griz scat with whitebark seeds.
I cross another trail.
A little while later I pass another thermal area. I passed by this one a few years earlier but due
to a crazy lightning storm I hurried by and headed for cover. That trip was the only time I’ve
been awakened by thunder.
After a brief visit, I continue. It’s a beautiful afternoon and the hiking is perfect.
More pocket gopher activity.
And more grizzly scat.
Ephemeral stream beds.
And miles of open forest with easy hiking.
Interrupted by the occasional stretch of spruce.
The evening view from camp.
Another beautiful day ahead. After a couple days of flat terrain, later today will bring a change. But
before that, it’s ephemeral creeks, various forests, and more griz scat.
More of thre same with the huckleberries.
Some marshy spots along the way.
And a creek.
More wetlands.
As I approached the drop-off, I took a short break. After several minutes, I looked in my direction of travel and
caught a glimpse of a young black bear taking off out of view. Unfortunately, too quick for a picture. I
shouldered my pack and took off in its direction hoping to have a better view of it. No luck, it was gone.
Soon after I reached a great overview of the valley I would be descending into.
And passed a cascade
I reached the creek I had come upon earlier and crossed over it.
I pass over a huckleberry shrub with withered berries on it.
As I neared the valley floor, another trail came into view. One last creek crossing and I’d be
on a trail briefly before taking a nice break.
After crossing the creek and the main trail, I head up a side trail.
I reach the break location. After a good soak, 4 cowboys arrive and soak for 20 minutes, pack up and
head back to their horses. They mentioned elk bugling all night near their camp. I was happy for them
but I still had only heard wolves.
I head upstream for 15 minutes or so, pass a waterfall, and head up onto the ridge. This is the start of the climb out of the valley back to the higher country. I’m hoping that the elk will be bugling up there but considering the great elk country I have passed through with no bugling, I’m not feeling optimistic.
Another creek crossing which means I am fairly close to the top.
I reach the top of the climb and now it’s time to find camp. The views from camp.
Another beautiful morning. No elk bugling at all last night. The days are a little too warm for bugling but the nights have been great.
A whitebark pine seedling. Always great to see. That depression looks suspiciously similar to a very old bison wallow.
I’ve seen evidence on the north side of this area of possible past bison use. I’d love to some day see some up here.
Another sapling torn up by an elk. Plateau scenery.
More pocket gopher activity.
I reach a pond with good water. The water in the potholes by camp was pretty murky, okay to cook with but not for drinking.
Lots of great tracks in the mud. Grizzly, wolf, elk, mule deer.
More scenery.
Approaching the trail. In this area the trail is poorly maintained and difficult to stay on. I loosely follow the trail but the off-trail travel is great. I’ll only be near the trail a short time before heading away from it.
Lots of cairns to help out. And an old trail marker.
Back to off-trail. A natural avenue through the spruce.
Some fall color.
More scenery.
Coming to the end of the plateau.
Elk scat & fall color.
Down into the forest.
Nearing camp. One more creek to cross. Oh cr@p, the creek isn’t the easy cross I expected. Hm-m-m-m.
A relatively new beaver dam, 3-4 feet high.
And an American Dipper with a nice hunting perch.
Beaver chewed vegetation.
Camp is only a ¼ mile away. I find the first crossable point below the dam and head over.
On the way to camp I see an elk calf about 50 yards away. It bounds off quickly. No elk follow it. A minute or so later I see it again, and again no elk follow it. Must be last in line. Well maybe tonight I’ll hear some bugling.
The next morning is another beautiful day. The road is only a few miles away. More easy hiking.
And more bear sign.
On the way out I’m trying to find a nondescript thermal area. Eventually I happen upon it.
Not a typical one for Yellowstone. No fumaroles or other typical features, just areas with
hot or warm water, and lush vegetation.
Downstream of the thermal area, pearly everlasting, Oregon grape, and grouse whortleberry.
The water is still warm but cooling as I continue downstream.
Angelica spp. I didn’t even know it existed around here. It also grows on the coast of Alaska
and is a popular bear food when in flower.
Entering a much larger meadow.
More easy hiking.
Almost to the road. Fire mitigation thinning around the Park residential area.
I reach the highway, walk to a good spot to hitchhike, and stick my thumb out. I also do as I always do, play the
license plate game to pass the time. Within 15 minutes a vehicle pulls over. Turns out it’s an Uber driver returning
to the Jackson airport. She drops me off at the front of the airport, I go in and pick up my rental, the same car
I drove here in. I spend a couple of days driving a day-hiking GTNP & YNP. Then it’s back to Portland, beers with
an old college buddy, and a flight the next morning back to AK.
I usually come here this time of the year to catch the elk rut, and bugling bulls. I know I’ll be passing through some fine elk country and am optimistic for my chances of elk bugling all night. We’ll see.
This trek was an-off-trail trip starting in an area of the park I have been near before, but never through. The last 2-3 days overlapped with past
trips. As anyone who has ventured off-trail in the forests there, the terrain and travelling conditions are pretty amenable to such a trip, with
stretches of regenerating, or “doghair” lodgepole pine forest. These can be slow-going to frustrating to nearly impenetrable. The doghair I
traveled on this trip tended toward the slow-going.
Within a few minutes, I crossed this water and continued across the meadow as a lone bison meandered through the trees bordering it.
No matter where you hike here, there’s never a shortage of bones from past residents.
Although the odds of someone seeing me as I hiked through the meadow were slim, entering the trees ahead meant I was leaving the masses
behind, at least for a few days. If all went well, I would not see another human for nearly a week.
Before I could reach the trees, I hiked past this old wolf scat. I hoped to see one or more wolves along the way.
As soon as I reached the trees, I passed one of them that had suffered some recent damage from a bull elk.
One last look back. No sign of the road or anyone. Soon after this I hear a lone wolf howling.
It didn’t take long for evidence of recent bear activity. I completed a trip here about 6 weeks ago and it was
obvious that the year’s berry crop was going to be dismal. With little to no berries, the bears are left with few
options for high calorie foods. Insects will be high on their menu list.
I continue through the scattered trees to a creek, where I soon pass a recent elk wallow.
I end up passing through this wet meadow. This is one of the few places I’ve seen cattails here.
After leaving the meadow, I find this elk trail and follow it over a low spot on the ridge.
And down the other side which takes me to a meadow, bear scat, a couple ponds, and a bear-scarred lodgepole
pine. I also heard several wolves howling from the ridge as I hiked through the meadow.
I end up in a small opening loaded with bear sign and I finally find a recent black bear track.
A couple of pillaged yellow jacket ground nests and one of many logs torn open for insects.
After looking around a bit more, I set up camp and eat. A light rain fell intermittently during the night.
My route ahead.
A short time later, I am looking back at the small opening and the upper pond.
It’s slow going through a mix of lodgepole and spruce. Another elk wallow, some elk scat, and pearly everlasting flowers.
On day 2, the hiking becomes a little more challenging as I travel a few miles passing through several
different stands of lodgepole, some easier than others.
At one point, I heard a cow elk bark the alarm and elk bounding off and a few moments later pick up
the scent of elk piss. I never glimpsed any of them.
Much of the ground is littered with pitchstone and occasionally, I pass a larger specimen.
Surprisingly, one of the unnatural items that I typically find off-trail at some point are the remains of mylar
balloons. Good to see that I’m #1.
I also find lots of bear scats. No berries in them this year but many have remnants of whitebark pine seeds, which are
vital to the grizzlies.
Eventually the terrain flattens a bit and the forest opens up. A few whitebark pine seedlings are doing well in the open canopy.
Soon after, I cross a trail, trip my way through a small lodgepole thicket, and then the forest opens as I near my campsite.
The next morning, I take my time breaking camp and heading out. On day 1 the weather started out sunny, became cloudy,
rained lightly then ended up sunny. Today started out really nice with clouds, and I hope my luck continues. Ahead are more
miles of lodgepole stands of varying difficulty.
Not too far from camp.
Eventually, the forest opens up and the next few days will be much easier traveling.
I excitedly approach a large meadow that will hopefully allow me to make good time as I have had a long way to go
today. I reach the creek that drains the meadow and it has some interesting features. It is narrow and looks
to be 4-6 feet deep with sections of slow and deep pools. Luckily, just downstream from here it chokes down to
a trickle that I can step over.
Ahead the clouds are approaching from the west but in the northeast, it is beautiful.
This is the creek at the upper end of the meadow. I am headed for the low ridge behind the meadow.
As soon as I enter the forest, the bear sign becomes plentiful.
The hike up and the view back.
Another game trail and the telltale elk track. I haven’t seen or heard any elk but I have smelled them a few times.
The ground is littered with pitchstone fragments.
And some larger specimens.
I’m on the ridge and making relatively good time.
Porcupine damage.
Bear activity and elk scat.
Elk tracks
Cruising terrain & forest.
One of a few ponds along the ridge.
A drying pond and elk wallow.
Spruce & lodgepole forest & pinedrops.
More bear sign.
Lots of bear trees.
I watered up here.
Getting late and still a ways to go.
Sunset.
Another beautiful morning and some frost.
More lodgepoles. Relatively thick for this stretch. From here on out, with a few exceptions, the regenerating
lodgepole really thins out, the spruce forests are fairly open and the terrain is great for off-trail hiking.
A dormant fumarole.
I reach a small thermal area and wander around a bit.
I could easily spend an hour here but today is a long day to the next camp so I move on.
By mid-September the wildflowers are pretty scarce so I appreciated the sighting of this Indian paintbrush.
I hit a stretch with several clusters of huckleberry shrubs. There’s no evidence of any berries though.
I pass a few more thermal features.
More huckleberry shrubs.
And more thermal activity.
I finally approach a lake I wanted to visit and load up on water.
I load up on water and head out again, following a game trail away from the lake.
Such an inviting forest to hike through.
The last day and some I have walked through a crazy amount of pocket gopher activity. Some areas are so
churned up it’s hard to walk through without breaking through their tunnels.
A griz scat with whitebark seeds.
I cross another trail.
A little while later I pass another thermal area. I passed by this one a few years earlier but due
to a crazy lightning storm I hurried by and headed for cover. That trip was the only time I’ve
been awakened by thunder.
After a brief visit, I continue. It’s a beautiful afternoon and the hiking is perfect.
More pocket gopher activity.
And more grizzly scat.
Ephemeral stream beds.
And miles of open forest with easy hiking.
Interrupted by the occasional stretch of spruce.
The evening view from camp.
Another beautiful day ahead. After a couple days of flat terrain, later today will bring a change. But
before that, it’s ephemeral creeks, various forests, and more griz scat.
More of thre same with the huckleberries.
Some marshy spots along the way.
And a creek.
More wetlands.
As I approached the drop-off, I took a short break. After several minutes, I looked in my direction of travel and
caught a glimpse of a young black bear taking off out of view. Unfortunately, too quick for a picture. I
shouldered my pack and took off in its direction hoping to have a better view of it. No luck, it was gone.
Soon after I reached a great overview of the valley I would be descending into.
And passed a cascade
I reached the creek I had come upon earlier and crossed over it.
I pass over a huckleberry shrub with withered berries on it.
As I neared the valley floor, another trail came into view. One last creek crossing and I’d be
on a trail briefly before taking a nice break.
After crossing the creek and the main trail, I head up a side trail.
I reach the break location. After a good soak, 4 cowboys arrive and soak for 20 minutes, pack up and
head back to their horses. They mentioned elk bugling all night near their camp. I was happy for them
but I still had only heard wolves.
I head upstream for 15 minutes or so, pass a waterfall, and head up onto the ridge. This is the start of the climb out of the valley back to the higher country. I’m hoping that the elk will be bugling up there but considering the great elk country I have passed through with no bugling, I’m not feeling optimistic.
Another creek crossing which means I am fairly close to the top.
I reach the top of the climb and now it’s time to find camp. The views from camp.
Another beautiful morning. No elk bugling at all last night. The days are a little too warm for bugling but the nights have been great.
A whitebark pine seedling. Always great to see. That depression looks suspiciously similar to a very old bison wallow.
I’ve seen evidence on the north side of this area of possible past bison use. I’d love to some day see some up here.
Another sapling torn up by an elk. Plateau scenery.
More pocket gopher activity.
I reach a pond with good water. The water in the potholes by camp was pretty murky, okay to cook with but not for drinking.
Lots of great tracks in the mud. Grizzly, wolf, elk, mule deer.
More scenery.
Approaching the trail. In this area the trail is poorly maintained and difficult to stay on. I loosely follow the trail but the off-trail travel is great. I’ll only be near the trail a short time before heading away from it.
Lots of cairns to help out. And an old trail marker.
Back to off-trail. A natural avenue through the spruce.
Some fall color.
More scenery.
Coming to the end of the plateau.
Elk scat & fall color.
Down into the forest.
Nearing camp. One more creek to cross. Oh cr@p, the creek isn’t the easy cross I expected. Hm-m-m-m.
A relatively new beaver dam, 3-4 feet high.
And an American Dipper with a nice hunting perch.
Beaver chewed vegetation.
Camp is only a ¼ mile away. I find the first crossable point below the dam and head over.
On the way to camp I see an elk calf about 50 yards away. It bounds off quickly. No elk follow it. A minute or so later I see it again, and again no elk follow it. Must be last in line. Well maybe tonight I’ll hear some bugling.
The next morning is another beautiful day. The road is only a few miles away. More easy hiking.
And more bear sign.
On the way out I’m trying to find a nondescript thermal area. Eventually I happen upon it.
Not a typical one for Yellowstone. No fumaroles or other typical features, just areas with
hot or warm water, and lush vegetation.
Downstream of the thermal area, pearly everlasting, Oregon grape, and grouse whortleberry.
The water is still warm but cooling as I continue downstream.
Angelica spp. I didn’t even know it existed around here. It also grows on the coast of Alaska
and is a popular bear food when in flower.
Entering a much larger meadow.
More easy hiking.
Almost to the road. Fire mitigation thinning around the Park residential area.
I reach the highway, walk to a good spot to hitchhike, and stick my thumb out. I also do as I always do, play the
license plate game to pass the time. Within 15 minutes a vehicle pulls over. Turns out it’s an Uber driver returning
to the Jackson airport. She drops me off at the front of the airport, I go in and pick up my rental, the same car
I drove here in. I spend a couple of days driving a day-hiking GTNP & YNP. Then it’s back to Portland, beers with
an old college buddy, and a flight the next morning back to AK.
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