5 day Yellowstone Backpack

SKLund

SKLund

Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2016
Messages
459
I know...it depends. 8 to 10 days is a long time for a family man with travel time to and from NM. I am looking for something that I can fit into time budget of a week total. Don't mind working hard, real hard. Your ideas are very welcome.
 
OMG several options here. And yes, it depends.

For reference, I usually start late-afternoon on the first day, and hike 7-8 miles. But I typically fly into Bozeman or Jackson, hitchhike into the park, pick up permit, hitchhike to trail head and hit the trail which easily kills half a day. After that days vary from ~10 to ~15 miles. It takes the high country varying times to open up and who knows where this year's snowpack will end up. Usually by early to mid-July, most everything is open, or at least open enough.

Most of these require some hitchhiking to go back to vehicle but hitchhiking in the park has been pretty easy in my experiences.

In the NW part of the park, Glen Creek TH loop over Electric Peak Pass and Fawn Pass or even Bighorn Pass might fit the bill real well. If that doesn't seem like enough miles for a 5-day trip, you could add in a side trip or loop and head north to Specimen Creek area. Climbing Electric Peak will add a half day or so depending on your fitness. I have a trip report on this loop on here. It's a beautiful trip with a bit of everything.

In the SE part, a trip from Nine Mile Post (northeast part of Yellowstone Lake) south along the lake and then west to Heart Lake and to Heart Lake TH is another one to consider. No high country but great views of surrounding mountains and a hike up Sheridan Peak will provide some great views in all directions.

Soda Butte/Lamar River TH to (or at least toward) Pelican Valley then north up to Wapiti Lake area and out. Almost always great wildlife viewing in Lamar Valley with great scenery along the way. Mist Creek Pass provides great views.

South entrance east along south boundary to Fox Park and loop back out via Heart Lake. Some great high country and huge meadows along Snake River.

South entrance west along Park boundary to Falls River, to Bechler Meadows, up Bechler River past Bubble Hot Springs (awesome), and out to Lone Star TH or Delacey Creek TH. Scenery isn't mind blowing but it is a fine trip.

If you prefer to go off trail, you can cobble together all kinds of trips, you just may have to spend more time with the ranger explaining your intended route.

https://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/upload/bctrip-planner_2015.pdf
 
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Outdoor_Fool said:
OMG several options here. And yes, it depends.

For reference, I usually start late-afternoon on the first day, and hike 7-8 miles. But I typically fly into Bozeman or Jackson, hitchhike into the park, pick up permit, hitchhike to trail head and hit the trail which easily kills half a day. After that days vary from ~10 to ~15 miles. It takes the high country varying times to open up and who knows where this year's snowpack will end up. Usually by early to mid-July, most everything is open, or at least open enough.

Most of these require some hitchhiking to go back to vehicle but hitchhiking in the park has been pretty easy in my experiences.

In the NW part of the park, Glen Creek TH loop over Electric Peak Pass and Fawn Pass or even Bighorn Pass might fit the bill real well. If that doesn't seem like enough miles for a 5-day trip, you could add in a side trip or loop and head north to Specimen Creek area. Climbing Electric Peak will add a half day or so depending on your fitness. I have a trip report on this loop on here. It's a beautiful trip with a bit of everything.

In the SE part, a trip from Nine Mile Post (northeast part of Yellowstone Lake) south along the lake and then west to Heart Lake and to Heart Lake TH is another one to consider. No high country but great views of surrounding mountains and a hike up Sheridan Peak will provide some great views in all directions.

Soda Butte/Lamar River TH to (or at least toward) Pelican Valley then north up to Wapiti Lake area and out. Almost always great wildlife viewing in Lamar Valley with great scenery along the way. Mist Creek Pass provides great views.

South entrance east along south boundary to Fox Park and loop back out via Heart Lake. Some great high country and huge meadows along Snake River.

South entrance west along Park boundary to Falls River, to Bechler Meadows, up Bechler River past Bubble Hot Springs (awesome), and out to Lone Star TH or Delacey Creek TH. Scenery isn't mind blowing but it is a fine trip.

If you prefer to go off trail, you can cobble together all kinds of trips, you just may have to spend more time with the ranger explaining your intended route.
Click to expand...

Excellent references. Thanks!
 
SKL,

I just added a link to the Park's Backcountry Trip Planner at the bottom of my original post, in case you missed it.
 
Do you want to see thermal features, or fish? That might help someone make suggestions. The Backcountry Trip Planner will also give you information about when the various bear management areas open.
 
I'm not sure how you feel about off-trail travel, but a trip I did about four years ago might work for you. I called it the Pitchstone, Bechler Loop and it is about sixty miles in length. The trip starts at the Beula Lake Trailhead and your first night you would spend at the lake. The next day, you would head cross country up onto the Pitchstone Plateau and stay at campsite 8P2. On day three, head across the plateau towards Ferris Fork, follow Ferris Fork down to the Bechler River and camp at whatever campsite you are comfortable in reaching in a day. Day four, continue down Bechler Canyon and begin curving around the west side of the Pitchstone, eventually heading east towards Ash Creek or Union Falls if you can make it that far. On the last day, head towards the Grassy Lake Trailhead, at the trailhead head east along the South Boundary Trail back to your vehicle.

Days two and three will be the off-trail portions of this loop and they offer some river/creek crossings, a remote thermal area few visit, cascades coming off of the Pitchstone Plateau, navigating marshy areas and complete solitaire. On our trip, we encountered fog and rain across the top of the Pitchstone, but as the weather began to clear up in the afternoon, I thought the meadows along the top were beautiful and well worth exploring. As you make your way down Ferris Fork, you'll encounter many remote waterfalls. Of course, there is the added bonus of being able to soak in Mr. Bubbles as you near the Bechler Canyon. The Bechler area is famous for its waterfalls too. Once you make your way back along the southern edge of the plateau be sure and check out Union Falls before heading back to you vehicle.

Of course, all of the hikes mentioned by Outdoor Fool are well worth your time also. Just put a map of Yellowstone on your wall and throw a dart at it. Where it lands is where you'll head. :) I don't think I've ever discovered any bad parts or hikes in the Park.
 
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scatman said:
I'm not sure how you feel about off-trail travel, but a trip I did about four years ago might work for you. I called it the Pitchstone, Bechler Loop and it is about seventy miles in lenght. The trip starts at the Beula Lake Trailhead and your first night you would spend at the lake. The next day, you would head cross country up onto the Pitchstone Plateau and stay at campsite 8P2. On day three, head across the plateau towards Ferris Fork, follow Ferris Fork down to the Bechler River and camp at whatever campsite you are comfortable in reaching in a day. Day four, continue down Bechler Canyon and begin curving around the west side of the Pitchstone, eventually heading east towards Ash Creek or Union Falls if you can make it that far. On the last day, head towards the Grassy Lake Trailhead, at the trailhead head east along the South Boundary Trail back to your vehicle.

Days two and three will be the off-trail portions of this loop and they offer some river/creek crossings, a remote thermal area few visit, cascades coming off of the Pitchstone Plateau, navigating marshy areas and complete solitaire. On our trip, we encountered fog and rain across the top of the Pitchstone, but as the weather began to clear up in the afternoon, I thought the meadows along the top were beautiful and well worth exploring. As you make your way down Ferris Fork, you'll encounter many remote waterfalls. Of course, there is the added bonus of being able to soak in Mr. Bubbles as you near the Bechler Canyon. The Bechler area is famous for its waterfalls too. Once you make your way back along the southern edge of the plateau be sure and check out Union Falls before heading back to you vehicle.

Of course, all of the hikes mentioned by Outdoor Fool are well worth your time also. Just put a map of Yellowstone on your wall and throw a dart at it. Where it lands is where you'll head. :) I don't think I've ever discovered any bad parts or hikes in the Park.
Click to expand...
Thanks I have read your report and seen Joey's video. All of your reports have been tremendously helpful. Really it's about how much time I can away (negotiation continues).

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SKLund, now since it is still February, there is a good Falcon Press guidebook on hiking Yellowstone Park. The local library also might have it. It covers all of Yellowstone Park and you could see all the options for yourself. You still have time to go thru the book and see what you want since it is still only February.

Now if you want to make your reservations early before July, you can do this starting in April but there is a small reservation fee also. Also if you want to fish on your hike, Yellowstone Park has their own fishing permits also.

Another hike that one can do in 5 days or a week or more is down to the Thorofare and back up with taking a boat across Yellowstone Lake from the Bridge Bay area or down from the Nine Mile Trailhead. There is also hiking back to the Heart Lake and this whole upper Snake River / Heart River area also. One could go back relax, dayhike and such. And others have said, the Lamar River to or from Pelican Valley could also be another great hike. Also one could do a really nice hiking loop up in the Gallatins in the northwest part of the park also. The Bechler as mentioned above is another good hike but is really wet in the first part of the summer. One could combine a trip starting in the park with also the nearby National Forest also since wilderness is on how much of the park's boundary. Soooo many options!

So many options to go for .... it is really what do you want and you could do so much in this time period. It is just like Scatman said ... "Just put up a map of Yellowstone on your wall and throw a dart at it. Where it lands is where you go." You can't go wrong in Yellowstone with soooo many options. I have been going back in the back parts of Yellowstone Park off and on since 1981 and still have not seen it all.

If you decide to go to the Thorofare, then feel free to send me a message and will help you out. Personally have been going back to the Thorofare since 1982 and know it like the back of my hand so to speak.

Wishing You the Best!
 
Pringles said:
Do you want to see thermal features, or fish? That might help someone make suggestions. The Backcountry Trip Planner will also give you information about when the various bear management areas open.
Click to expand...
Yes of course my original question should have contained more detail. I guess my main priority is remoteness which takes more time. Working on that..

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Kmatjhwy said:
SKLund, now since it is still February, there is a good Falcon Press guidebook on hiking Yellowstone Park. The local library also might have it. It covers all of Yellowstone Park and you could see all the options for yourself. You still have time to go thru the book and see what you want since it is still only February.

Now if you want to make your reservations early before July, you can do this starting in April but there is a small reservation fee also. Also if you want to fish on your hike, Yellowstone Park has their own fishing permits also.

Another hike that one can do in 5 days or a week or more is down to the Thorofare and back up with taking a boat across Yellowstone Lake from the Bridge Bay area or down from the Nine Mile Trailhead. There is also hiking back to the Heart Lake and this whole upper Snake River / Heart River area also. One could go back relax, dayhike and such. And others have said, the Lamar River to or from Pelican Valley could also be another great hike. Also one could do a really nice hiking loop up in the Gallatins in the northwest part of the park also. The Bechler as mentioned above is another good hike but is really wet in the first part of the summer. One could combine a trip starting in the park with also the nearby National Forest also since wilderness is on how much of the park's boundary. Soooo many options!

So many options to go for .... it is really what do you want and you could do so much in this time period. It is just like Scatman said ... "Just put up a map of Yellowstone on your wall and throw a dart at it. Where it lands is where you go." You can't go wrong in Yellowstone with soooo many options. I have been going back in the back parts of Yellowstone Park off and on since 1981 and still have not seen it all.

If you decide to go to the Thorofare, then feel free to send me a message and will help you out. Personally have been going back to the Thorofare since 1982 and know it like the back of my hand so to speak.

Wishing You the Best!
Click to expand...
Excellent! This might be just the ticket.

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SKLund, personally I like it in there anytime I am in there!!! Guess right in the Thorofare itself like around Hawks Rest (which is right outside the park in the Teton Wilderness), it is late spring and early summer. Then during the main summer am up around the high peaks in the Absarokas with passing thru the Thorofare. And then in the late summer / fall am on the Yellowstone Park side of the Thorofare to avoid the hunters in the National Forest. I have done some big hikes in this whole period back in here from May to October with each having there own specialties.

It is like I was saying ... what do you personally want and what do you personally want to experience ... then Go For It!

In the spring like May or June, have started many a hike in the National Forest from Turpin Meadows and gone back to Hawks Rest in the Teton Wilderness right outside the park. This entails going over Two Ocean Pass. The thing is that if you like to fish ... the fishing is better in June and early July then it is later in August in the Thorofare. The reason is later in the summer, a good part of the Cutthroat Throat population in the upper Yellowstone River drainage heads back down in mid to late summer, back to Yellowstone Lake. And as for the Yellowstone Park side of the Thorofare, the Park Service does NOT issue permits for their area for backpacking till July and after the spring runoff season. This is one reason why I head back in thru the nearby National Forest in the spring. And hiking on back to Hawks Rest and Bridger Lake here, it usually takes maybe 3 or so days hiking in.

Just a brief synopsis I Guess:
May - Snow and Runoff, Just Greening Up - Wildlife Everywhere
Early June - Greening Up, Spring Rufnoff, Wildlife Everywhere
Late June - Green in the Thorofare, spring runoff, high country still with snow, flowers blooming, possible mosquitoes, in a usual normal year - the first backcountry horsepackers arrive at Hawks Rest
early July - Green in the Thorofare, Flowers blooming, Mosquitoes, good time for the fishing, still high water, can access high country
late July - meadows drying out, fishing okay, some mosquitoes, can access the high country, lower water levels
August - lower water levels, meadows nice but less flowers, and dryer, lots less mosquitoes and bugs, can access the high country
September - low water levels, fall colors and conditions with chilly nights, elk bugling, hunting outside the park

Guess this for what it is worth. This year hope to get back there in possibly May or very early June. Again feel free to contact me at anytime for some information. I will be more then happy to help you out. Wishing You the Best!
 
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Kmatjhwy said:
SKLund, personally I like it in there anytime I am in there!!! Guess right in the Thorofare itself like around Hawks Rest (which is right outside the park in the Teton Wilderness), it is late spring and early summer. Then during the main summer am up around the high peaks in the Absarokas with passing thru the Thorofare. And then in the late summer / fall am on the Yellowstone Park side of the Thorofare to avoid the hunters in the National Forest. I have done some big hikes in this whole period back in here from May to October with each having there own specialties.

It is like I was saying ... what do you personally want and what do you personally want to experience ... then Go For It!

In the spring like May or June, have started many a hike in the National Forest from Turpin Meadows and gone back to Hawks Rest in the Teton Wilderness right outside the park. This entails going over Two Ocean Pass. The thing is that if you like to fish ... the fishing is better in June and early July then it is later in August in the Thorofare. The reason is later in the summer, a good part of the Cutthroat Throat population in the upper Yellowstone River drainage heads back down in mid to late summer, back to Yellowstone Lake. And as for the Yellowstone Park side of the Thorofare, the Park Service does NOT issue permits for their area for backpacking till July and after the spring runoff season. This is one reason why I head back in thru the nearby National Forest in the spring. And hiking on back to Hawks Rest and Bridger Lake here, it usually takes maybe 3 or so days hiking in.

Just a brief synopsis I Guess:
May - Snow and Runoff, Just Greening Up - Wildlife Everywhere
Early June - Greening Up, Spring Rufnoff, Wildlife Everywhere
Late June - Green in the Thorofare, spring runoff, high country still with snow, flowers blooming, possible mosquitoes, in a usual normal year - the first backcountry horsepackers arrive at Hawks Rest
early July - Green in the Thorofare, Flowers blooming, Mosquitoes, good time for the fishing, still high water, can access high country
late July - meadows drying out, fishing okay, some mosquitoes, can access the high country, lower water levels
August - lower water levels, meadows nice but less flowers, and dryer, lots less mosquitoes and bugs, can access the high country
September - low water levels, fall colors and conditions with chilly nights, elk bugling, hunting outside the park

Guess this for what it is worth. This year hope to get back there in possibly May or very early June. Again feel free to contact me at anytime for some information. I will be more then happy to help you out. Wishing You the Best!
Click to expand...
Hello Kmat! I am a new member, have tons of questions regarding leaving from the Turpin Meadows area up into the Teton Wilderness, I would love to connect with you!
 
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