Teton Wilderness to Thorofare late May

[Phantom309]

I was wondering if anyone can provide any info on backpacking into the Thorofare from outside of the park. I’ve read a few posts before about it but nothing recently. I was wondering about routes, personal experience, opinions, exc….

Thanks!

 

[Mackey]

Would not do it in late May. Way too much snow runoff. Wait until at least mid July!

Mackey

 

[Phantom309]

Thanks for the input and I would agree with you if I had not read a post from user name Kmatjhwy back in 2017. I’m not tech savvy so I’m not sure how to properly copy the post but it reads as follows.

Now for Brian and anyone else who is interested ... a trail description to head back to Hawks Rest and the Thorofare thru the Teton Wilderness in the spring or early summer, or anytime in the summer if interested, from Turpin Meadows.

First Turpin Meadows at the end of the Buffalo Valley Road, with 10 miles up the road. Here is a nice large parking area and trailhead for those going into the wilderness. At times like late June in a normal summer, it can be crowded with many pickups with their horse trailers of those exploring the wilderness. The trailhead is at about 7,000 feet in elevation. Then the trail heads out with a half mile away, one comes to little Clear Creek. In May or so when the creek is filled with runoff, it will be above one knees. But most of the time in the summer, one can hop across on the rocks or the creek coming to one's ankles. Here there is a split in the trail on the other side of the creek. One trail to the right heading over to the South Fork of the Buffalo, and the one to the left with heading up the North Fork of the Buffalo and eventually to Hawks Rest near 30 trail miles away.

Here the trail will go over a rise in like 2 to 3 miles which the top is near 7600 feet. In most years the trail in here is mostly melted out by late May but sometimes after a good good winter, maybe the snow will linger i here at the top in the trees till the end of May. Then it drops down to a wooded bench for several miles. After like 5 to 6 miles from the trailhead, one will come to lovely and beautiful Soda Fork Meadows on the right. Here at the edge of the meadows scattered about are several nice campsites. Also there is a really lovely campsite right off the trail, on a knoll overlooking the meadows. Here at the Soda Fork Meadows, the wildlife really puts on a show about every evening and have seen about everything here in these meadows including Wolves, Grizzlies, Moose, hundreds and hundreds of Elk, Eagles, and what all. I have camped here often on this knoll and it makes for splendid camping. Soda Fork Meadows extends for several miles and makes for good exploring. the Soda Fork Meadows is near 7400 feet in elevation. A very good Grizzly location for have seen many a Grizzly here thru the years.

Then from here the trail goes over another rise of about 400 feet in about 2 or 3 miles and drops down to the North Buffalo Meadows at around 7600 feet. Good place also for wildlife. There is one campsite here along the trail in a grove of timber. And on the knoll on the SW side of these meadows is a campsite and outfitter site. Do always see Grizzly tracks in here in the spring and early summer it seems.

Then from here after several miles, one comes to a trail junction here along the North Buffalo River. One trail on the right continues to go up and along the North Buffalo Fork while the left trail goes up and over Trail Creek Pass and over to Pacific Creek and Two Ocean Pass. The top of Trail Creek Pass is around 8600 feet. It used to be that the snow would always linger here in the timber on the way over this pass into like early and mid June it seems. But after a fire in here several years ago, it seems the snow might melt out a little earlier. The trail will be muddy but usually one has no problems in early June with the snow over this pass in a normal year. But indeed muddy trails on over. If one gets over this pass with no problems, Two Ocean Pass is never a problem. Down below Two Ocean Pass are several camp areas with an outfitter spot near a creek like a mile down from Two Ocean Pass. And several miles on down, there is a bluff on the south side of Atlantic Creek which has a great campsite, not far from where Jay Creek comes in. There are several other great campsites here near where Jay Creek comes in. And some beaver ponds along Atlantic Creek. Atlantic Creek is never a problem with the runoff before Jay Creek, but with the added volume of Jay Creek it can become some stream during the runoff. Two Ocean Pass is near 8200. And here at Two Ocean Pass is the Parting of the waters where Two Ocean Creek divides right on the Continental Divide becoming Atlantic and Pacific Creek.

Then it is about 8 miles or so from Two Ocean Pass to Hawks Rest / Bridger Lake in the Thorofare. On the east side of the Thorofare , at the mouth of Atlantic Creek, is a trail crossing of Atlantic Creek. Here Atlantic Creek can be horrendous in the spring during the runoff. Then out across the Yellowstone Meadows, which is usually extremely boggy and marshy in the spring and early summer. Sometimes in a high runoff season, parts of these meadows will turn into a lake because of the runoff. It is about 3 miles or so across the meadows. When using the trail, part way across the meadows, one will recross Atlantic Creek. But this second crossing is not as dangerous with a gravel bar right where the trail crossing and deep holes on either side. I though thru the years make a bushwhack going across the meadows most of the way offtrail which can be drier then the trail. But once across the meadows, there is a bridge across the Yellowstone River here at Hawks Rest.

Here at Hawks Rest, there is ample camping spots right in the trees here near the river with bear boxes to boot. And up near the ranger cabin here a Hawks Rest is the best drinking water. It comes out of a pipe at a spring near the cabin and is fabulous. Here near the cabin and the camping spots, there are trails over to Bridger Lake near one half mile or so away, trails that go up the Thorofare River, or trails that go around Bridger Lake and over and up to Yellowstone Park and the Thorofare River nearby. One could linger here for days and days and days and not have a bad day.

Now in most years, one has no problem in going back on foot in late May or early June. But in big snow years, like this one, it could be something else. In the early summer after a big big winter,, the Thorofare has turned into a shallow lake. But so wild and fabulous.

As for myself, this is all I can think about - getting back I here again. For what it is worth ... Wishing Everyone the Best!

 

[Bob]

Kmatjhwy knows Yellowstone well. She does say high water crossings, mud and snowpack.... However, take your chances...... Like said....runoff a problem, snow higher up and on the east slopes a bit lower. I've gone up Slough Creek and Hellroaring on the north the 3rd week of June. Way high water, plentiful snow around 8500ft. Most years in Yellowstone areas like Virginia Meadows still has a couple feet in late May. That said, it depends on the year. Turpin and lower Buffalo is about 7500. Two Ocean is about 8200. Thorofare ranges 8000. A lot of creeks flow across the trails that could be high. You wont get into the high country....

I'd wait til mid June, but still won't get much high elevation. It's not a place to get in trouble at.

 

[Phantom309]

Agreed, thanks!

 

[Kmatjhwy]

Phantom, Hi There! Yes for many a year would hike back to the Thorofare sometime in the late May to early June period. It was Great! There would always be a little snow in places and the mud, but it varied each year according to the snow pack and how early spring came into the country. Also many a year would hand out in late May to early June at the Soda Fork Meadows on the North Buffalo Fork enjoying everything.

 

[Phantom309]

I’m sure you have some crazy stories spending all that time in that area. As for right now, I only have a one week window from the end of May through June and really wanted to get back there. However in talking to others about it, it sounds like I may be better off sticking with a lower elevation route to avoid the creek/river crossings. I don’t mind the snow or mud as long as it’s not too bad.

If you don’t mind, what would you recommend for a week route that time of year. I typically always stay in the northern range of YNP. I like to think I have a fair amount of experience backpacking solo in that area. I typically get out that way a few times a year for trips such as that.

 

[Kmatjhwy]

Phantom, if you have only a week, getting back to the Soda Fork Meadows at the end of May and early June is pretty darn awesome. Some of my most closest Grizzly and Wolf encounters have been here. And have seen about everything here. It is greening up, all the creeks and rivers are Chuck full of water, the Elk and the wildlife are migrating thru to the high country. Plus there are many areas all over where one can day hike to from Clear Lake, up the Soda Fork, up the North Buffalo Fork, down thru the Soda Fork Meadows offtrail, and more. But will think on this overnight. Best to you!