Neon Canyon and the Golden Cathedral

John Fowler

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In August of 2009 I went on an overnight trip with Aaron Johnson and his friend Tobey from Escalante to Neon Canyon in Grand Staircase/Escalante. Not much excitement to report, but if you've never been there you might like to see what it looks like. This area, in the Egypt section of GS/E, has several side canyons off the Escalante river, and water is not a problem. A multi day trip here might be considered. The technical challenges range from minor (this trip) to climbing, rappelling, and long stemming traverses over Mae West canyons, if you need more adventure. Choprock canyon is about a mile upriver and Twenty-five Mile canyon is about a mile downstream.

We set off from Aaron's house at 8 am and drove down Hole-in-the-Rock road for about 10 miles to the Egypt bench turnout, which heads east. The road wasn't bad at first but by the end, 9.5 miles away, it was considerablyv worse. High-clearance would be required, though not 4WD unless it's wet. From the trailhead you can look out over a valley and see the knob that sits above Neon canyon, 3.5 miles away.


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There is an immediate 500-foot descent down steep but not treacherous slickrock and then a couple of miles of walking over typical desert terrain. Then there is another short descent down a sandy hill to the river. This is a good place to camp. We shed our packs here and crossed the knee-deep river into Neon canyon. You can see from these shots how it got its name.

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About a quarter of a mile up the canyon one comes to the Golden Cathedral. This impressive alcove has two large holes in the roof. You can climb up and around, and rappel down through one of the holes. After a heavy rain, a waterfall pours through the holes.

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You can see reflections from the pool shining on the rock.

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When we returned to the campsite I noticed that the ground was crawling with ants. Aaron said that they would be gone by nightfall. But not wanting to put my tent over them, I moved about 100 feet away and ten feet lower, down by the river. Since it was August, I didn't bring my heavy bag, just a light cover. It got colder than I had anticipated. The next morning as I walked up to where the others had slept, I noticed that the temperature get about ten degrees warmer, over that short distance. Maybe it was heat from the surrounding rocks.

After breakfast we walked downriver about half a mile to Ringtail canyon, which is a tall narrow slot. I went in a little way but saw that there wasn't much to photograph.

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Then we packed up and hiked back up to the trailhead. Instead of going up the sandy hill, we went north up the river for about half a mile and then exited west into Fence canyon, then across the desert and back up the slickrock to the truck.

There is lots more to see in this area and I will be going back.
 
Gorgeous spot - the Golden Cathedral is a beautiful place. I think one of my fave pics of myself ever is on that rap down through the window. I've descended the lower part of Neon a couple of times (called the "sport route") but really want to do the longer version at some point.

I love your shot with the reflection shining up on the windows - great timing!
 
Very cool, John. I've planned at least three trips to some part of Neon but still haven't made it. Twice we were going to backpack down through Fence, down the Escalante and up Twenty-five Mile but it was in the spring both times and the rangers told us we shouldn't attempt it. The third time I was supposed to join up with cirrus2000 and some others to do Neon as my first big technical canyon but after 3 days of backpacking and one day of squeezing through the Egypt slots, I was toast. Someday I'm going to rap through that thing!
 
very nice report John, and wonderful shots, it's nice to see them in big size without having to open the "all sizes" as we do on flickr.
 
Wonderful shots of a really amazing spot.
I never made it down there. Would you always recommend this as an overnight trip?
What about early June?
You can do it in a day but it would be a fairly long day. I think June would be fine. As long as it hasn't been raining a lot. August is hot, but I went then anyway and it wasn't too bad. I tolerate the heat well, having grown up in SC.
 
Very cool, John. I've planned at least three trips to some part of Neon but still haven't made it. Twice we were going to backpack down through Fence, down the Escalante and up Twenty-five Mile but it was in the spring both times and the rangers told us we shouldn't attempt it. The third time I was supposed to join up with cirrus2000 and some others to do Neon as my first big technical canyon but after 3 days of backpacking and one day of squeezing through the Egypt slots, I was toast. Someday I'm going to rap through that thing!
thanks for the link to your Egypt adventure. After looking at it, I'm sure it would be too much for me.
 
Definitely been wanting to do this one for a while. Hoping to at least do the route you did, but someday REALLY want to do the techincal route.
 
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