Chaco Culture National Historical Park, New Mexico

piper01

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Oct 27, 2013
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182
April 12-13, 2015

Part 4 of 4 of the New Mexico portion of my roadtrip last spring

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I had debated whether to visit Chaco NHP, since I had seen it before (though nearly a decade prior), or to skip it and visit new areas. Chaco is spectacular and well worth multiple visits though, so I'm glad I decided to include it.

I rolled into the park's campground in the late Sunday afternoon. The campground was only a third full and I had no trouble grabbing a spot, but I imagine on Friday and Saturday nights it fills up since there's nowhere else around to camp. After setting up my tent, I still had another hour and a half before sunset. The gates on the loop drive through the park didn't close until dusk, so I grabbed my camera, jumped back in the car, and was off!

Cool stratigraphy.
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My first stop along the road was the Hungo Pavi site. Few people were out on a Sunday evening, so I had it all to myself.
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Next I moved on to the larger Chetro Ketl complex. As luck would have it, I also had this site all to myself. IMG_4399_ChetroKetl.JPG
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The complex was remodeled throughout the time it was used, closing off this doorway. IMG_4411_ChetroKetl.JPG

As the sun continued its descent, he wall of the great kiva glowed a vibrant red.IMG_4419_ChetroKetl.JPG
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I basked in the light, giddy that I was the only person seeing this beauty.IMG_4453_ChetroKetl.JPG
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In the silence, I heard wings flapping as a bird flew overhead. IMG_4457_ChetroKetl.JPG

The walls glowed even brighter in the late afternoon sun.
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The walls not lit up by the sun were a dull brown. I liked this photo, originally in color, better in grayscale. In the future, I'll have to remember to try taking black and white shots. IMG_4469_ChetroKetl_BW.jpg

I see a face in the wall every time I look at this picture.
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The cliff glowed so brightly for several minutes, it looked like it was on fire.
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The light faded all too quickly as the sun sank below the mesa top.
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The last of the light signaled that it was time to return to camp for dinner and a snooze.
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I broke camp camp early the next morning, stopped by the visitor center, then retraced the loop road from the night before, this time stopping at Pueblo Bonito. Unlike the previous night, I didn't have the site all to myself, but the few people there at that time were spread out across the site, so it was the next best thing to solitude. IMG_4539_PuebloBonito.JPG

The walls were at least three stories tall. It must have taken an immense amount of work to construct them, especially with as thick as the lower walls had to be to support the weight above them.
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View from the inside
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Holes for support beamsIMG_4554_PuebloBonito.JPG
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Each complex was spaced about a half mile away from the previous one. Here's the view from Pueblo Bonito to the next one over.IMG_4577.JPG

A rock fall from the cliff face behind Pueblo Bonito destroyed part of the complex, though after the site had been abandoned. IMG_4586.JPG
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This exterior wall must have been immense when it was intact.
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I puzzled over why one side of this opening ended in a smooth edge, while the other was jagged. IMG_4618.JPG

The complex was enormous, originally containing over 600 rooms and covering 3 acres. IMG_4621.JPG
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View from inside a room. Imagine how dark it would have been with no exterior windows when the ceiling was in place. IMG_4652_PuebloBonito.JPG

Original support beams, dating from between AD 850-1250. Nearly a thousand year old logs! Also note the remodeled doorway, partially filling it in. I wonder why? IMG_4657_crop.jpg

Shall I go left, or shall I go right? IMG_4661.JPG

Doorways.
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I was enamored with the "windows" in the corners of rooms. I don't think I've seen architecture like it anywhere else. IMG_4680_edit.jpg

Modern plaster on the walls, re-creating what a room may have originally looked like. I don't recall if the ceiling beams were modern or original. IMG_4688.JPG

More doorways.
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Next I visited the petroglyphs engraved on the cliff, between Chetro Ketl and Pueblo Bonito.
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After that, I was ready for the ~5.4 mile loop hike on the mesa above. IMG_4713.JPG

Kin Kletso complex, before climbing up the mesa. IMG_4707_KinKletso.JPG

Kin Kletso from above. IMG_4716_KinKletso.JPG

And finally, Kin Kletso from further along the mesa top. (I stopped at the Pueblo Bonito overlook before continuing on, but my pictures from my second stop there at the end of the hike turned out better, so they'll be posted later). IMG_4718_KinKletso.JPG

I was on bird level. IMG_4736.JPG

New Alto complex. IMG_4742_NewAlto.JPG

I love the shape of this opening. IMG_4744_NewAlto.JPG

View of New Alto from the older Pueblo Alto site. IMG_4757.JPG

The second half of the hike provided great views into the valleys. IMG_4760.JPG

Trace fossils! Casts and molds of burrows from a shrimplike crustacean digging on the shallow ocean floor near the shoreline of the Cretaceous Interior Seaway. (77 mm lens cap for scale)IMG_4765.JPG

Chacoan stairs carved in the cliff face. The road network cut north-south across the terrain, rather than following easier routes around obstacles.
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Look closely at the rocks as you hike, and you'll see more fossils. (approximately fingernail-size for reference) IMG_4779.JPG

I found a clam bed! IMG_4790.JPG

Chetro Ketl in the foreground, with Pueblo Bonito next to the cliff on the right IMG_4795_ChetroKetl.JPG

Chetro Ketl from a different angle IMG_4801_ChetroKetl_edit.jpg

And more Chetro Ketl IMG_4805.JPG

Pueblo Bonito growing closer as I near the end of the hike. IMG_4808_PuebloBonita.JPG

And finally, the Pueblo Bonito complex from above. The walls seemed immense as I stood next to them at ground level, but it's difficult to truly grasp the scale of the site until you see it all at once. Absolutely spectacular. IMG_4810_PuebloBonita_edit2.jpg
 
Well written! I love historic sites. :)


Gesendet via iPhone 6S mit TapaTalk
 
Impressive see of ruins. Now that I live in CO this place may have to go on the list of places to go.
 
This was really an amazing series of reports. What an awesome road trip. Those ruins are amazing. Some of it reminds me of the Mayan ruins in Chichen Itza.
 
Thanks for your post. Your beautiful shots bring back good memories.
 
This was really an amazing series of reports. What an awesome road trip.

Oh, but there's more! New Mexico was just a stop off between Texas and Utah. I still have a week in Cedar Mesa and several days of Capitol Reef I can write up...eventually.
 
I really enjoyed your trip report.

I grew up about 100 miles from here but have only been here a few times. It really is a wonderful place. Hard to get to... at least it used to be. I've been told that its easier to get there from NM 371 but I've only gone from NM 44 which involved about 30 miles of THE WORST washboard roads. Some of the turns weren't always marked...

I've read some interesting things about this place. The walls of at least one set of ruins have been discovered to be oriented to match the line between sunrise and sunset on the summer solstice. There is also at least one set of petroglyphs whose purpose is apparently to chart the solstices. Ancient roads of extraordinary length have been discovered going to the pueblos. The roads are more than 60 miles in length and go as straight as can be regardless of terrain. Your picture of the stairs up the cliff may be part of one of those roads. I think I remember that one of the roads runs to Mesa Verde.

One of the mysteries of this place to me is why they built multi storied structures. There was plenty of room to spread out. The doors are also a puzzle to me - why they're so short. You don't have anything for scale in your pictures. Here's a selfie from 1980.15598658011_4b66d81dfb_b.jpg
I'm over 6 ft tall but even if they were only 5 ft tall they would have had to bend over to go through the doors.

Another puzzle to me are all of the petroglyphs of feet with 6 toes.
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This has been a popular place to visit for a long time. One of my kids in front of some old graffiti.
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I also wonder about water and about the timbers in the buildings. This is a dry place. There are not even seasonal springs here. There is a large arroyo here but to my knowledge it rarely runs. There are no forests anywhere nearby. It had to have been awful to transport the timbers to this location. I cannot see any reason to recommend this location for such a large population of people. Yet food and water must have been easy enough that they could take so much time away from food production for construction of such impressive edifices.

Its a grand and mysterious place. Very impressive.
 

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