Ansel Adams Wilderness--smoke and mirrors

balzaccom

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2014
Messages
741
We had both spent the previous three previous years recovering from various ailments--me from arthritis in my knee, and M from tendonitis in her left foot. And that one took forever. But we were now healthy, and this trip was our chance hike about 40 miles in five days, back to our good old days of more ambitious backpacking trips.

But that's not exactly what happened.

DAY ONE:
On the drive down to Lake thomas Edison, we discovered the wonderful Rancho San Miguel Market in Madera, where we found a delicious torta de jamon that exceeded expectations...and great produce at great prices...and whole hispanic foods to go section. We made a note to ourselves to stop here on the way back home!

The permit box was jam-packed at the USFS office in Prather, and we pawed through at least fifty envelopes before we found ours. From there we drove through Shaver and Huntington Lakes to find that the road to Vermilion Valley Resortwas worse than ever--just as steep and narrow and twisty, but the pavement was in much worse shape than ten years ago. We found a campsite at the regular VVR campground and wandered around, checking out the trailheads--there are two here...but the one to Graveyard Lakes and Mono Pass is missing its sign, since a giant pine fell on it.
file.jpg
f098a8_bd785a2bb93b4b6792af13c8c1831b4d~mv2.webp





DAY TWO:
We got a good start and were up at the junction at Cold Creek by 10 am, delighted to have seen a bear racing through the woods on the uphill section below Cold Creek. We stopped there to filter water, then continued on across the creek towards Goodale Pass. There were not many people on the trail--we met only one hiker in this first section, then two guys at the junction. And we didn't see another hiker until the Graveyard spur trail.

file.jpg
f098a8_8aaac11da90c4008a6eb704552a2aaa4~mv2.webp





The good news was that the smoky air from distant fires cleared up as we hiked.
By 11:45 we were at the spur trail, and chatted with a hiker/hunter from south AFrica. We wondered how he would get a deer out of here. That's a long eight miles to carry that much weight.

It was a tough, steep climb to Graveyard Lakes, but we arruved by 2:30 or so...and on the way we saw a deer on the way that had eluded our hunter friend.
file.jpg
f098a8_32b567296df142679fa76cb3adeae10a~mv2.webp





There was only one other group at Graveyard lake, and they were camped to the left of the trail, so we camped at a large site on the right. Later we found an even more secluded site beyond ours...but didn't see any real reason to move. But next time...

file.jpg
f098a8_1fdfd87753a443199db2a6c4b7b99eef~mv2.webp





We took a nap, and then wandered up to the far end of the lake to explore the trail up to the rest of the lakes...which made a steep and rocky ascent up a rough talus slope. Here there was no smoke at all. We ate an early dinner and early to bed, well satisfied with a good day's hiking and a beautiful campsite. So far, so good.

DAY THREE:
We woke up ready for another good day, hiking over Goodale Pass to Lake of the Lone Indian and Wilbur May Lake. That was the plan. But walking around camp, M was in tears. After three years of slow recovery from bad tendonitis on her left heel, her right heel was now giving her the same kind of pain.

That led to a serious conversation over breakfast. We could keep going, but if her heel got worse, that meant a longer hike out, and didn't seem like a good idea. We could hike back out slowly today...maybe taking two days...or even three if we needed them. But she was unwilling to bail completely. So what should we do?
file.jpg
f098a8_4b48102d2b8f4262adca81b925f61146~mv2.webp





In the end, we decided to take a lay day at Graveyard Lakes and then see how her heel felt. Without our packs we spent the morning slowly walk through the four major lakes. I fished at all four, and caught fish at all four. The upper lake was quite alpine and austere, and we were delight to see a tiny pika in the rocks. The two middle lakes are more intimate. There's a nice campsite at the second lake, and I preferred the fishing there, too.


file.jpg
f098a8_373d8583bb1342489722487072efd19c~mv2.webp





We met and chatted with the other group at the lake, who told us that the hunter was thinking of carrying the deer out (he claimed to be able to carry 130 pounds in his pack) or seal the meat in plastic bags in the lake and make two trips....hmmm.


file.jpg
f098a8_5af71273336447459adf6eb483660ab2~mv2.webp




We were back in camp by lunchtime, and after the usual nap the afternoon went slowly. M meditated and iced her foot in the lake, I tried to fish with small success...and then we settled in for an early dinner and another long conversation about plans. We decided that we shouldn't try to go farther...as we couldn't be sure M's heel wouldn't get worse. So we would hike out slowly, taking as long as we needed, and camping along the way if her heel needed more rest. We were disappointed, but happy that we had seen this lovely place.
But a nice early dinner of ramen curry was delicious and we were in bed.

DAY FOUR:
We woke up at 4:30 to the smell of smoke. That's never a good sign when you are in the backcountry. Then at 5:30 an idiot arrived at the lake and started calling for his dog Reno and giving piercing whistles. Labor Day always seems to bring out the knuckleheads.

file.jpg
f098a8_ca46e87d0aa245a497af7da9822d7663~mv2.webp





The smoke smell was still there at 6:30 when we got up...but we couldn't see much in the air. We packed up and hit the trail before 8. We took it easy, but were still down at Cold Creek junction by a bit after ten. Stopped here to rest and let M soak her foot for a while in the icy stream. We'd already seen about fifteen people hiking on the trail in, and expected more.because of the beginning of Labor Day weekend.

Part of our plan was to camp here if needed, but after icing her foot in the stream M felt good enough to continue. But which trail should we take? We met our friends from Graveyard Lakes again here, and they took the shorter trail.

file.jpg
f098a8_73ff92859d1f412785605be33624b68e~mv2.webp





We decided to try the cut-off to the Devil's Bathtub Trail ..with the idea we could camp along Cold Creek if needed, since the trail roughly followed it. The trail was easy...albeit full of cows and their leavings, and very dusty from the cattle traffic, who clearly used it more than hikers do. But it is a good ways from the creek, and it would have been hard to find a campsite along here if we had needed it. Luckily, M's foot held out and we didn't.
By 11:45 we were at the junction with the Devil's Bathtub Trail...and had twice seen a young bear foraging through the wood. The creek here looked miserable--muddy and trampled by cows--but I suppose you could find a place to get water if you went upstream...

We pushed on, thinking that we could get M a place to soak her foot while we are lunch where the trail meets Cold Creek again. Now we were meeting lots more people...and some day-hikers to the lake as well as backpackers. But the trail and Cold Creek never really meet--and we finally gave up and ate lunch where it crosses a small tributary. From there it was an easy mile back to the trailhead...but it was a hot, smoky mile.

file.jpg
f098a8_87a388b61cbb46a7b504d1f600e6d320~mv2.webp





We made it to our van about 1:30 and decided to stay the night at the campground there, rather than driving the six hours home--an amusing consideration, as it would turn out. because we later found out that we didn't have a choice.

We napped in the van, read books, and later in the afternoon were joined by two hikers who set up a tent nearby. After their tent was up, one if them stopped by to say hello...and that's when we learned that the fire above Shaver Lake had closed off Highway 168 completely... and that was our only road out. (The guys had been camped just the other side of Goodale Pass, and from there they could not only smell the smoke...they could see the column rising to the West.)
And so what began as a restful evening before the drive out became something less--a waiting for Godot kind of existence.
DAY FIVE:
The smoke was really bad this morning...and we ate breakfast in the van to avoid going out into the air. The sun is a dull orange glow.
file.jpg
f098a8_02f0fe4bf4e248b3843ba4fe0fe4df53~mv2.webp





So what began as a challenge to see if we could still get out into the backcountry became a challenge to see if we could get out OF the backcountry. We were in good shape for the short term. We had food...two more days from our backpacking trip, plus extra food we always have in the van. Water was available at the main campground, and we had ten gallons in the van. But clean air to breathe was harder to find.. and who knows how long we might have to stay here...a day, two, or more.
At the trailhead, we chatted with some hikers who come out and want to leave. Others arrive and leave on day-hikes from the campground, looking to stay busy . And we are all waiting for word from CalFire...
And then just before noon, that word comes that the entire area is to be evacuated...and the road is open. So from being trapped, we go to being told to leave.

file.jpg
f098a8_051dfea04b964a8a9c21e98730c5a321~mv2.webp





We joined a convoy of vehicles over Kaiser Pass Road, slowly climbing out of danger. And after passing through clouds of smoke on the way--the worst was near Shaver Lake--we finally got down to Prather and relative safety.

Here's hoping that all those through hikers at VVR got to where they wanted to go---or at least got to where they could get free of the fires and smoke.
 
Not sure what's up with the pictures, but any fewer pixels and they'd be radio...
 
Really glad you two were able to get out of there safely! I always get pretty worried when I wake up to smokey views that weren't there the day before. The fires just move so fast. Thanks for sharing!
 
Thanks Miya

How bad is it in Napa?

At 8 a.m. this morning, I tried to take a photo of our backyard. On the one hand, it looked as if it were snowing...as ash fell from the sky at a steady pace. But it was difficult to capture the scene on my camera. because it was so dark that the camera's auto-flash deployed.


Yes, in what would normally be broad daylight, any outdoor photos required a flash. And that flash lit up the flecks of ash falling from the sky. It was so bad that when I got up this morning I thought I had misread the clock, because it was dark outside...


Absolutely apocalyptic.
 
Thanks Miya

How bad is it in Napa?

Absolutely apocalyptic.

So scary right now, fires and the bad air quality definitely makes me feel ill at ease.

I live in Lodi, but my company has a page where we can watch the AQI levels at all our locations and Napa air quality has remained relatively good, definitely not as bad as Lodi. We were ranging at about ~400-450 AQI, but the worst has been our Plymouth location. The wind is just taking it straight to them.

Unfortunately, we do have some employees that had to be evacuated from Napa though and lost their homes. :(
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
shredhiker Ansel Adams Wilderness October 2023 Backpacking 12
TheMountainRabbit Red's Meadow to Tuolumne Meadows via the High Route (Ansel Adams/Yosemite Wilderness) - August 2022 Backpacking 5
Ross Ansel Adams Wilderness Backpacking 23
Tim Valentine Sierra 2017 Ansel Adams Wilderness Backpacking 11
ZubenElGenubi Ansel Adams Wilderness - Thousand Island Lake Backpacking 11
ZubenElGenubi Three Day/Two Night Trip: Ansel Adams Wilderness Trip Planning 5
balzaccom Ansel Adams Photography 1
C Adams Trail to Paria Canyon General Discussion 2
NorthwestWanderer Glacier Lake, Mt. Adams Wilderness Backpacking 5
Perry Day Hike to the Adams Cabin - Denied Hiking & Camping 4
Elemental Fluttershy Mount Adams Rec. Area: Wildflowers at Bird Creek Meadows! (Washington) Hiking & Camping 3
Nick Andy Adams Reservoir On The Water 5
Bob Teton Wilderness July 2024 Trip Planning 38
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Thorofare and the Teton Wilderness 08/09/2023 - 08/18/2023 Part Nine / Day Nine + Ten! Backpacking 20
Mikjik86 Backpacking Indian Peaks Wilderness - King Lake - August, 2023 Backpacking 0
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Thorofare and the Teton Wilderness 08/09/2023 - 08/18/2023 Part Eight / Day Eight Backpacking 14
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Thorofare and the Teton Wilderness 08/09/2023 - 08/18/2023 Part Seven / Day Seven Backpacking 13
randakag Rawah Wilderness "Lollipop" Loop - September 2023 Backpacking 7
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Thorofare and the Teton Wilderness 08/09/2023 - 08/18/2023 Part Six / Day Six Backpacking 28
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Thorofare and the Teton Wilderness 08/09/2023 - 08/18/2023 Part Five / Day Five Backpacking 16
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Thorofare and the Teton Wilderness 08/09/2023 - 08/18/2023 Part Four / Day Four Backpacking 15
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Thorofare and the Teton Wilderness 08/09/2023 - 08/18/2023 Part Three / Day Three Backpacking 10
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Thorofare and the Teton Wilderness 08/09/2023 - 08/18/2023 -- Part Two / Day Two Backpacking 6
TractorDoc Yellowstone's Thorofare and the Teton Wilderness 08/09/2023 - 08/18/2023 --Part One / Day One Backpacking 10
TheMountainRabbit Bob Marshall Wilderness - September 2023 Backpacking 8
marquiri Uncompahgre Wilderness Trip Planning 13
TheMountainRabbit Dana Meadows to Twin Lakes via the High Route (Yosemite/Hoover Wilderness) - August 2023 Backpacking 8
TheMountainRabbit Invite Bob Marshall Wilderness, September 2023 Meet Up (Members Only) 0
TheMountainRabbit Silas Canyon (Popo Agie Wilderness) - August 2023 Backpacking 3
C What's a good insurance company for Wilderness Trip Outfitters Trip Planning 1
RockyMntCol Cloud Peak Wilderness Loop Trip Planning 1
TheMountainRabbit Southern Absaroka & Thorofare Mountain (Teton/Washakie Wilderness) - July 2023 Backpacking 23
J Pacific Creek or North Buffalo Fork? Teton Wilderness, Thorofare ,etc. Trip Planning 10
Bob Teton Wilderness Trip Planning 2
shredhiker Eagles Nest Wilderness June 30 2023 Backpacking 7
W Paper map for Teton Wilderness (Younts Peak) Gear 4
forest dweller The story of a frustrated middle aged suburban wilderness lover! General Discussion 35
wabenho Big Pine Lakes – John Muir Wilderness Backpacking 6
canadug Jarbidge Wilderness General Discussion 12
C Teton Wilderness Early July Trip Planning 16
travel2walk Gros Ventre Wilderness: Granite Creek, West Fork Crystal Creek, Crystal Creek, & Swift Creek - June 2021 Backpacking 8
F 12 days in Wyoming's Teton Wilderness, part 9 of 9, 7-29 & 30, /2022 Backpacking 5
F 12 days in Wyoming's Teton Wilderness, part 8 of 9, 7/28/2022 Backpacking 5
F 12 days in Wyoming's Teton Wilderness, part 7 of 9, July 26-27, 2022 Backpacking 13
F 12 days in Wyoming's Teton Wilderness, part 6, 7/25/2022 Backpacking 17
F 12 days in Wyoming's Teton Wilderness, part 5 of 9, 7/23-24, 2022 Backpacking 10
F 12 days in Wyoming's Teton Wilderness, part 4 of 9, 7/22, 2022 Backpacking 4
F 12 days in Wyoming's Teton Wilderness, part 3 of 9, 7/20-21, 2022 Backpacking 2
F 12 days in Wyoming's Teton Wilderness, part 2, 7/19/2022 Backpacking 4
F 12 days in Wyoming's Teton Wilderness, part 1, 7/15-18, 2022 Backpacking 13

Similar threads

Back
Top