Zion Summits Backpack: Courting Angels Beyond the Gates May 1-5, 2016

[John Morrow]

Zion National Park, Kolob Terrace Region


North Guardian Angel 7395' Class 4 Northeast Ridge
West Northgate Peak 7267' Class 3 North Ridge
South Guardian Angel 7140' Class 3 (short class 4) Northeast Ridge
East Northgate Peak 7159' Class 2 North Slope


Zion Canyon


Angel's Landing 5790' Class 3 Chains
Refrigerator Peak 6011' Class 1 South Slope


May 1: Drive from Escalante, get permit, goof off in Springdale, hike in the chill 2 mile Northgate Peak Trail to set up a camp on the rim of Russell Gulch. Literally "chill" with rain and wind and 40 degree F. cold temps!



May 2: Allowing the rock to dry with a leisurely start, Kimberly, Robert, and I set off to summit the North Guardian. It is fairly challenging scrambling with consistent Class 4 to start above the NE shoulder (Class 3 to there) and several exposed Class 4 steps here and there to the summit. In general, after the first sustained pitch, go slightly left (south) of the NE Ridge crest. We opted to go faster by avoiding to rope up. On the descent we did 2 rappels, however. Spectacular Climb in an amazing location!




Trying to beat incoming T-storms, I quickly went up W. Northgate Peak on its' pleasant and solid Class 3 North Ridge.



May 3: 6:30 AM start, knowing this would be a potentially long day to South Guardian Angel. It sits in a magnificent and remote location deep in Zion Wilderness. Though the Peak itself is solid and pleasant Class 3, getting to it is another story. There is but one way, that is to descend to the famous Subway of the Left Fork North Creek. It goes like this:
Walk around the west edge of the unnamed point east of N. Guardian Angel.
Descend the prominent South Ridge of this point until it gets too steep.
Cross left through a shallow drainage to a second south trending rib.
Take it until it steepens beyond reasonable progress.
Look down and right into a gritty dirt gully...Take it.
Take the gully to a brushy flat, 200 vertical feet above the Subway.
Traverse the flat 100 yards left to a second gully...Take it to the bottom!
The key Jughandle Arch is right across from you.
Climb 15 feet of Class 3 gully left of the arch to 10 feet of Class 4 mini face.
Ascend the rest of the gully out to a tread on the left switchbacking up.
Find your way to Guardian Angel Pass and locate the Red Sandstone Amphitheater...scramble it to the NE Ridge of South Guardian Angel.
Enjoy the NE Ridge to the top!
Retrace.





Summit views are awesome!!!! Then head back...




Once back at the Northgate Peaks, I scrambled the easy N Ridge of East Northgate. A tread gets you up, but fun Class 2 rock is more enjoyable.


May 4: Then it was time to eat and celebrate in Springdale! A quick hike out and a set up in the South Campground by the Park Visitor Center.


May 5 : Drats, my last day. I opted for Angel's Landing and some Courtney Purcell bump called Refrigerator Peak. I was first out of camp and thought I'd meet everyone on top. But somehow we never crossed paths???? Then it was time to begin the long drive.

 

[Vegan.Hiker]

Great stuff. You know it was an amazing trip when the pics of angels landing don't even make the cut to be included in the report. I've never done anything requiring a helmet but I really hope to try something like this one day. Thanks for the excellent report.

 

[muir_mountain]

Nice TR! I really liked the rainbow picture near the top

 

[Ben]

thanks

 

[slc_dan]

really cool. Love views from those peaks. I'd definitely be in for an outing like this.

 

[Artemus]

Holy Crow, John - what a productive trip. Great photographs too. Well done!

 

[Artemus]

John, what peak is that across the way in picture 7 - with the thin fluted ridge and the white to red contact zone? The right side skyline reminds me of Wolf's Head in the Wind River Mountains. Same profile.

 

[John Morrow]

John, what peak is that across the way in picture 7 - with the thin fluted ridge and the white to red contact zone? The right side skyline reminds me of Wolf's Head in the Wind River Mountains. Same profile.

Hi Artemus,
That is actually South Guardian Angel. I see the resemblence, as if looking from the north at Wolfshead. Only this one is merely mostly class 3 and pretty broad when up close, unlike the "knifeblade" with its' exposure!

 

[John Morrow]

Sorry to bump this up, but I got the pics to orient vertically!