White Mountain National Forest, NH (Carter Range)

Vegan.Hiker

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November 22nd and 23rd, 2014

This past Friday I left work early and headed to the White Mountains of New Hampshire. The plan was to shack up in a motel Friday night and get an early start on Saturday to hike a section of the Carter Range summiting Mount Hight (yup that's the right spelling) and Carter Dome. From the summit of Carter Dome I would descend 2,000 feet into Carter Notch and spend the night at the AMC (Appalachian Mountain Club) Carter Notch Hut. Sunday I planned to leave my pack at the hut and summit Wildcat Mountain before returning to the hut to pick up my pack and begin my hike back.

After the 6 and a half hour drive I checked into a motel and started organizing my gear for the next morning. Not sure about you guys, but a lot of my trips seem to start with my gear sprawled on the bed of a strange motel in a strange town. Figuring out the volatile weather in the Whites can be tricky any time of the year, but especially so during the shoulder season. After checking the high summits forecast one last time at the trailhead Saturday morning I ended up leaving the crampons in the trunk opting for just microspikes and bringing an extra layer, glove liners, and sleeping bag liner since the forecast called for sub-zero temps with the wind chill. Turned out to be pretty cold, but the winds turned out to be relatively calm.

New Hampshire and Vermont are known for their covered bridges. There are quite a few in the Whites.
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The snow on the drive there didn't look bad at all but according to the AMC website there was 5" at the Carter Notch Hut and a few more than that on the summits.

The Pemigewasset River on the drive in.
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Heading up the Nineteen Mile Brook Trail there was only about 1" of snow but the microspikes came in handy because there was lots of ice right off the bat.
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When I got to the Carter-Moriah trail and up into the Alpine Zone there was considerably more snow as you can see here. It was the winter wonderland I had hoped for.
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After an increasingly difficult climb, I reached the summit of Mount Hight. which gives a nice 360 degree view.

Looking south from Mount Hight towards Mount Washington, Mount Jefferson, and Mount Adams of the Presidential Range.
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Another shot of the Presidential Range. I was really surprised at how calm the winds were.7.jpg

Looking east towards Carter Dome, my next destination point.
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A pano of Carter Dome and Mount Washington.
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Entering back into the alpine forest across the ridge to Carter Dome on the Carter Dome Trail (this section is also part of the Appalachian Trail.)
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I thought this trail was the most beautiful section of the trip. A few times I could have sworn I heard sleigh bells. It was also nice that even though I didn't see anyone else on the trail that first day, the trail had already been broken.
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The summit of Carter Dome isn't above treeline (you can actually see the summit sign towards the left if you look hard) but there are short paths through the trees to lookouts both north and south.
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Looking north from Carter Dome towards the section of the Whites that are in Maine.
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Looking south towards , you guessed it... still the Presidentials.
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After a really steep descent from Carter Dome into Carter Notch (2k feet in less than a mile and a half) you finally arrive at the two small Carter Lakes and the Carter Notch Hut.
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The lodge has a fireplace, tables and a kitchen. Guests have full use of the kitchen, pots, pans, utensils, etc.
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The kitchen21.jpg

The collection of northeast hikers mingling in the lodge. Lazy backpackers like myself ate freeze dried backpacker food while others took advantage of the kitchen and brought brownie mix and cookie dough and baked for everyone.
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There are two separate bunkhouses. There is no heat or electricity but they provide shelter from wind and also have comfy sleeping pads and pillows. I know what you're all thinking right now.. that we're soft over here. I can't really think of a counter argument at the moment so I'll have to get back to you on that.
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The inside of the bunkhouse
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Unfortunately Sunday morning we were in a dense fog that was forecasted to last the entire day. I decided it wouldn't be worth the hard and steep climb in the ice and snow just to stand in a cloud, so I headed down the 4.5 mile direct trail back to where my car was parked and got a head start on the long drive home.
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If you're curious about what the White Mountains look like in the summer you can check out this report and/or video that I made in August:
Report - http://backcountrypost.com/forum/threads/mt-lincoln-mt-lafayette-new-hampshire-video-added.3543/
Video - Post Your Videos

Thanks for reading

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You guys sure are soft over there ;). I kid, I kid, man I wish I had shelters like that to use, especially in the winter. There are both forest service and park service cabins around some of the places I go, but all require a key (and shovel to dig out), which I don't have.

Where did all those people come from? Were they hikers or skiers?

Great photos! Especially the ones showing your trail in the snow, all the snow on the trees, and the colors in the clouds.

Thanks for the write up!
 
Nice ........... except for the 'soft' lodge. Wouldn't know what to do if I didn't have a rock under my sleeping pad....
 
Thanks John. Nice TR. It is sort of difficult getting one's head around a "cabin" with commercial cooking facilities and bunk houses in the middle of no where.


Along with all the people------




And I snore------





But no one probably packs a handgun or bear spray------
 
I knew I'd get some flack for the cushy lodge lol. Deservedly so. I prefer to be in a tent myself in any situation other than the Whites in the winter. Winter hasn't even really started in the northeast yet (other than in Buffalo) and this was the high summit forecast for that weekend.. Luckily for me they were wrong on the wind prediction.

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I know a lot of hikers that hate the AMC for bringing luxuries to backpacking and I pretty much agree with them.. but it's hard to carry the extra weight of a 4 season tent, stove, fuel, pot, utensils, and sleeping pad when you know the hut is there.. at least if your lazy like me.

Where did all those people come from? Were they hikers or skiers?

Everyone there was a hiker as the huts are trail access only. It was very strange not seeing a single person on the trail the entire day then arriving to a lodge full of people. In a way it ruins the experience, but in another way it's also nice to interact with people who share the same passion for hiking... Just as long as it's a once in a while thing and not your typical way of trip planning I guess.
 
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I know a lot of hikers that hate the AMC for bringing luxuries to backpacking and I pretty much agree with them.. but it's hard to carry the extra weight of a 4 season tent, stove, fuel, pot, utensils, and sleeping pad when you know the hut is there.

I'd feel the same way but my wife and I always pack a 3-4 season tent anyway. Too many adverse experiences with light tents around here-even in the summer. Eliminating all that stuff from the pack you could probably get the rest in a day pack. I assume they supplied water also?
 
Eliminating all that stuff from the pack you could probably get the rest in a day pack. I assume they supplied water also?

The hut caretaker makes sure there is enough boiling water and boiled/cooled potable water for everyone (this experience is sounding softer and softer as I type lol). I could have fit everything I brought into my 28L daypack but I brought my 50L overnight pack because it's actually lighter. It was only half full though.
 
It's just the European style of backpacking / hiking. Carry next to nothing except food and wine....sleep and cook in a stocked hut.....
 
It's just the European style of backpacking / hiking. Carry next to nothing except food and wine....sleep and cook in a stocked hut.....

It's funny you say that Bob because there actually was a group of French speaking hikers there.
 
i'm impressed by every one bagging on the hut. it's not like you have to stop there.
 
No you don't have to stop ......... but they are usually the decent distance apart you can comfortably hike.
 
Nick, you are getting soft.......wait, I think you already were, houseboat comforts, etc. :)
 
I was thinking about doing a hut trip this winter here in Colorado. But the huts here typically only hold a couple of people....not a large group.
 
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i sleep in a bed more nights than i don't
 
"Just say not to negativity." With all due respect are you the unabomber or what Aldaron? If you don't like people what are you ding here? Bbbjhhhhhhhuuuurrrrrrrrrrpphpp. Excuse me.

The Whites are about halfway between The Hub and Montreal. As such it's normal to come across French Canadians. I got several trips to Montreal from two different women off of one Franconia Ridge Loop hike in my earliest 30s 20 yeaars ago. That day was gorgeous, Oct. 1 1995. I was well along in my rehabilitation from serious leg injury and the only thing more beautiful than the unseasonably warm day aND WONDERFUL WHITES were the dozens of magnificent Montrealettes.

If we could put those trees in our valleys we'd have unequivocal Nirvana. thanks for a great report.
 
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