Paria Canyon – Early June (4D/3N, Wire Pass to Lee’s Ferry) – Route + a Few Questions

[Doobie]

Hey all,


My partner and I are heading out to Paria Canyon the first week of June for a 4-day, 3-night trip. We’ll be hiking from Wire Pass to Lee’s Ferry, with a shuttle set up to take us from the takeout to the trailhead. I’ve done a bunch of reading, but figured I’d throw a few questions out here in case folks have tips or experience to share.

A few things I’m wondering about:​

1. Up or down canyon? (No longer planning on this)
We’re currently planning to hike downriver (Wire Pass to Lee’s Ferry), but I’ve read a few things that suggest going upriver might be more rewarding. Curious if anyone has a strong preference one way or the other.

2. Campsites — especially for night two
I’ve been messing around with route planning and have been trying to figure out the best option for night 2, with some possible campsites marked with question marks. Would love to hear if anyone has favorite spots along the way — especially for that second night. Here’s the map (Updated):

Click here to view on CalTopo

3. Buckskin Gulch tips?
I’ve read a bit about Buckskin Gulch and know about the usual cautions (flooding, tight spots, etc.), but if anyone has helpful notes or tips for that stretch, I’m all ears.

If there’s anything else you think is worth keeping in mind for this time of year — water, mud, bugs, favorite side canyons — feel free to throw it out there. Appreciate any advice!


— Doobie

 

[Janice]

We went from Wire Pass to Lee's Ferry in mid-June 2014 and had a magical trip. It didn't occur to us to go upstream, as everything we had read focused on going the direction we did. I'm sure it will be great either direction, although going up the boulder jam in Buckskin might be harder than going down. (But perhaps that obstacle has changed in the past decade? You can probably find current info about that from others here on BCP or elsewhere.) I guess going upstream would be interesting to see the canyon narrow, but going downstream you experience the natural course of the water.

Your map shows your route as being Lee's Ferry to Wire Pass, so I'm not sure which Night #2 you're seeking info about. Regardless, we just found spots along the way that worked, and this was before we used a GPS app so I didn't drop waypoints or have an exact location marked. I remember our 2nd night was in a beautiful spot, although looking back I realize it wouldn't have been great if there had been a flash flood; fortunately, there were clear blue skies the entire time and nothing bad happened.

Buckskin is fabulous! Just be prepared for a long, full day, likely going through deep sand at times. We had no puddles in mid-June.

On the middle days, watch out for quicksand. We had some adventures in that part! Nothing terrible, and it made for some good stories afterward, but it used some energy to get things cleaned up afterward.

In the wide part close to Lee's Ferry, we stayed close to the water rather than going the High Route that some people do. It was really helpful to dunk in the water when we got hot.

We didn't make it to Wrather Arch, but I'm sure that would be great if you have time and energy to do the detour.

One more thing: For your shuttle, be careful about what time zone your phone is showing and check with the shuttle operator about whether you should be in Utah time or Arizona time. It can be confusing!

Can't resist sharing these pics.

My son after his quicksand adventure.


One of the benefits of being slower than our kids - got this great picture of them up ahead.


Cooling off!

 

[Doobie]

We went from Wire Pass to Lee's Ferry in mid-June 2014 and had a magical trip. It didn't occur to us to go upstream, as everything we had read focused on going the direction we did. I'm sure it will be great either direction, although going up the boulder jam in Buckskin might be harder than going down. (But perhaps that obstacle has changed in the past decade? You can probably find current info about that from others here on BCP or elsewhere.) I guess going upstream would be interesting to see the canyon narrow, but going downstream you experience the natural course of the water.

Your map shows your route as being Lee's Ferry to Wire Pass, so I'm not sure which Night #2 you're seeking info about. Regardless, we just found spots along the way that worked, and this was before we used a GPS app so I didn't drop waypoints or have an exact location marked. I remember our 2nd night was in a beautiful spot, although looking back I realize it wouldn't have been great if there had been a flash flood; fortunately, there were clear blue skies the entire time and nothing bad happened.

Buckskin is fabulous! Just be prepared for a long, full day, likely going through deep sand at times. We had no puddles in mid-June.

On the middle days, watch out for quicksand. We had some adventures in that part! Nothing terrible, and it made for some good stories afterward, but it used some energy to get things cleaned up afterward.

In the wide part close to Lee's Ferry, we stayed close to the water rather than going the High Route that some people do. It was really helpful to dunk in the water when we got hot.

We didn't make it to Wrather Arch, but I'm sure that would be great if you have time and energy to do the detour.

One more thing: For your shuttle, be careful about what time zone your phone is showing and check with the shuttle operator about whether you should be in Utah time or Arizona time. It can be confusing!

Can't resist sharing these pics.

My son after his quicksand adventure.
View attachment 141576

One of the benefits of being slower than our kids - got this great picture of them up ahead.
View attachment 141577

Cooling off!
View attachment 141578

@Janice — really appreciate your response, and those photos are great!


I actually just got off the phone with Yermo from Seeking Treasure Adventures, and he strongly advised against going upstream. His take was that it’s safer to get the most dangerous part (Buckskin) done first, while you still have good weather and fresh legs. He mentioned that the upstream recommendation has actually led to some pretty serious situations for people. Really glad I reached out, he seems incredibly knowledgeable.


So with that, I think we’re going to stick with our original plan: Wire Pass to Lee’s Ferry. FYI — the upstream idea came from BCFound’s shuttle page, but if anyone’s looking for a shuttle, I’d highly recommend Seeking Treasure Adventures.


Thanks again for the tips!

P.S. I've updated the OP

 

[Janice]

That makes a lot of sense. So glad he provided that important info - safety first! Have a great trip, and fingers crossed for blue skies the whole time!

 

[RyanP]

I did that exact trip (Wire Pass to Lee's Ferry, in four days) last year in the exact same week (first week of June). We used Yermo for the shuttle and I'd recommend him. I agree that starting at Wire Pass makes more sense than starting at Lee's Ferry; if weather turns on you, you've done the best part (Buckskin the top parts of Paria) and can retreat to White House (whereas the last day is much worse and you wouldn't want to do an in-and-out on that part). I bet it's also less tiring to walk downstream since you're going with the current.

When we did Buckskin it was bone dry, but it completely depends on the year, and in particular, the recent weather. The nice thing is, you can just call the ranger station or Yermo and either of them probably knows the current conditions. So Buckskin was super easy for us (just flat walking the whole way), although the sand got a little tiring. We did the shuttle the evening before and camped by the trailhead, and I recommend doing likewise to enable an early start (so you can take your time on the long first day). I know in some years there can be extensive pools, and sometimes they're quite gross/stagnant. In any case, Buckskin Gulch is one of the most spectacular places you'll ever go so you'll love it! Buckskin is all just flat walking (no scrambling whatsoever IIRC) except for the boulder jam, which was harder than I expected it to be. There were a couple of ropes there to help you down that, and we sure couldn't have done it without them! I think the rangers and/or Yermo will probably also know the state of the boulder jam ropes.

The first week of June was very hot outside of the canyons, but the first three days it was surprisingly easy to stay cool. Day 1 (Buckskin) is like 90% in the shade and way cooler than in the sun. It was surprisingly nice and cool the whole first day. Then the next two days there was water the whole time, so we frequently got in the water to cool off (just like Janice shows in her photo). I hate the heat in general but the first three days ended up being pleasant overall. The last day was very hot, so we woke up early to beat the heat as much as possible. We wore shorts (my first time doing so while backpacking in years!) and that was the right call, although we had some biting flies the last day or two (pants still would have been worse the last day, because of the heat--the flies weren't that bad). I actually brought a sun umbrella for the last day (my first time ever doing so), and I think it was worth carrying the whole trip just to use the last several hours. If you can't tell, I hate the heat though. We brought some electrolyte powder to mix with water (again, something I don't normally do) and I think that was helpful as well.

I don't think we had any mosquitos, and there weren't any cedar gnats. Of course that just depends on the year though. There was some quicksand but not much (my son sunk about to his knees once but that's the only time I remember). There are mice issues at the popular campsites near the confluence of Buckskin/Paria. I had one Ursack and one stuff sack, and even though I hung them on a rope off the cliff wall, the mice still chewed into the stuff sack and got into my food. If I only brought Ursacks, they might have chewed through those too. I would recommend some kind of mouse-resistant container for the first night.

The Paria was surprisingly pristine for such a popular canyon. The permits and WAG bag requirements are really working. We saw hardly anyone for the last 3.5 days (we went mid-week, and literally saw like one group per day for the last 3.5 days), and once we got out of Buckskin, we didn't see any trash/TP or any other signs of humans other than established campsites. Before the trip, I was wondering if WAG bags would really be necessary in the lower parts of the Paria (and was thinking toward the end of the trip I might go way up side drainages and dig a hole), but the way the canyon is, the WAG bags really are necessary and I would plan on using them through the entire trip. Totally worth it to keep a canyon like that pristine.

I don't remember where exactly we camped the 2nd night, but it was a little past the Judd Hollow pump if I recall correctly. I think there were a few established campsite options in that stretch and not much competition for them (at least when we went). A lot of the people just do Buckskin to White House so once you head down the Paria from there you probably won't have campsite issues (I actually think the 2nd night is the easiest to find a campsite).

Definitely do Wrather Canyon. I thought the canyon itself was spectacular, even if there weren't a massive arch at the end. I also recommend heading a little up the Paria from the Confluence as that first little bit (1/2 mile?) is spectacular. I also recommend checking out Shower Spring. It was actually not obvious where it was, and we had to poke around a little to find it, but it turned into a memorable adventure and was a great spring. Also, on the last day, I would budget some time to look around for the petroglyphs on the boulders. Keep your eyes peeled and you will see that the trail goes right by a boulder with a bunch of petroglyphs on it (I think you might have to turn around to see them--they're facing the other direction I think). Once you see that boulder, go exploring on the hills around there for an hour or so and you will find many more such boulders!

One more thing--the restaurant in Cliff Dwellers tasted great before and after the trip for us! Not bad for being the only thing around. Have fun!

Here's two photos of the boulder jam (there were two possible ways down):

 

[RyanP]

Here's a few more to get you excited:

Buckskin:



Paria, a little above the confluence (short side trip):


Paria quicksand:


Paria is like this forever:


Shower Spring:


Wrather Canyon:


Petroglyphs:

 

[Janice]

As @RyanP did, from the confluence we went a little bit up Paria toward White House before heading back downstream. I definitely recommend that as well.

FYI, a friend was in Buckskin for a day hike on May 16, and she waded through some deep water, even up to her chest in some parts (she's about 5'4"). I don't know how long it takes for the water to recede; that will depend on temps and precipitation.

 

[priz1234]

I know a group who did buckskin (wire pass to white house) last Saturday May 17th and they said they estimated they went through 50 pools of water, some of them chest deep (the person who told me this is 6 foot 4). Not sure how quickly water levels can drop in buckskin but might be worth being prepared to deal with some water. I would still recommend going through buckskin even if you are dealing with water. I hiked it a couple of years ago and it is definitely worth it.