North Cascades National Park - Heather Pass / Maple Pass Loop

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Feb 10, 2013
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My wife and I took our first backpacking trip over Labor Day week in 2012. At the beginning of the year I did not even know that North Cascades National Park existed. Hiking, camping, and backpacking were not on my radar. Then I saw a copy of a Backpacker magazine at a newsstand. On the cover was a photo of a hiker standing at what appeared to be the edge of the world, jagged, snaggletoothed mountaintops at his feet, ridge behind ridge, extending into infinity. I purchased the magazine and perused it. It introduced me to the world of backpacking. My wife and I began hiking local trails for exercise, scenery, the solitude, and a sense of adventure. I decided that regardless of my work load, I was going to devote at least 2 weeks per year to backpacking trips. We decided our first trip was going to be over the week of Labor Day (so I would only miss 4 days of work). When it came time to pick a location, I just looked at the cover of that first Backpacker magazine (by now I had become a subscriber) and said, "I want to go there." "There" is Sahale Glacier camp in the North Cascades National Park, at the end of a six mile hike with around 4,000 feet of altitude gain. So, I started planning our trip. The only requirement my wife had was that there had to be a hotel with a spa and/or gambling at the end of it all. In addition to a few day hikes, I planned two overnight backpacking hikes. I found both of the overnight hikes in Backpacker and conducted additional research on the internet.

The Heather Pass / Maple Pass hike is a 9 miles loop around Lake Ann on the eastern side of the park. We followed the trail counterclockwise from the trailhead up to Heather Pass, with spur down to Lake Ann for lunch. The total elevation gain to Heather Pass is around 1,400 feet. We camped on a ridge under Black Peak, which rises another 2,800 above. The next day we continued our loop hike up to Maple Pass, topping out at the end of Frisco Mountain arm at around 7,000 feet. From there it was along the ridge and then steeply back down to the car. A very satisfying first night out in the North Cascades.

Emerging from the old-growth forest, with Whistler Mountain in the background.
Heather Pass 5.jpg
Resting on driftwood on the shores of Lake Ann.
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On the trail, the three prongs of Corteo Peak in the background.
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Looking down at Lake Ann from the trail.Heather Pass 18.jpg
Approaching Heather Pass.
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Setting up camp.
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View from the campsite, Black Peak.
Heather Pass 25.jpg
Exploring the area.
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Campsite.
Heather Pass 30.jpg

Back on the trail the next day.
Maple Pass 5.jpg

The hills are alive with the sound of music.
Maple Pass 7.jpg

Taking a break at Maple Pass.
Maple Pass 9.jpg

Looking southwest from Maple Pass over the North Cascades.
Maple Pass 10.jpg

Close up of Glacier Peak.
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Climbing up to Frisco Mountain arm.
Maple Pass 14.jpg

Another break, at Frisco arm.
Maple Pass 16.jpg

Maple Pass 20.jpg

Video of the hike:

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Nice. I've only spent a short amount of time in that area but from what I have seen it's pretty spectacular. Looks like you guys had a great time.
 
What jaw dropping beauty! And a spectacular camp spot 4:27 into your video. I'm going to make a point to learn more about this park now. Thanks for sharing this.
 
Wow! You don't mess around. What an awesome first backpacking trip.
 
Wow! You don't mess around. What an awesome first backpacking trip.
2X and nice to know Backpacker still has some relevance in the world. I subscribed to it a few years after it arrived on the scene in the 70's and probably had the second issue of it but at some point decided there just wasn't enough of it related to my specific use that warranted the expense. With the internet, you will still probably get orders of magnitude more good information from sites such as this one. Haven't been back to Backpacker's forum since they screwed it up.
 
2X and nice to know Backpacker still has some relevance in the world. I subscribed to it a few years after it arrived on the scene in the 70's and probably had the second issue of it but at some point decided there just wasn't enough of it related to my specific use that warranted the expense. With the internet, you will still probably get orders of magnitude more good information from sites such as this one. Haven't been back to Backpacker's forum since they screwed it up.

I was subscribed to it a few years ago for 1 or 2 years. It didn't give me any information I couldn't find from the web, but I did enjoy getting it in the mail and thumbing through it for an hour or so. I ultimately decided it wasn't worth the money.
 
2X and nice to know Backpacker still has some relevance in the world. I subscribed to it a few years after it arrived on the scene in the 70's and probably had the second issue of it but at some point decided there just wasn't enough of it related to my specific use that warranted the expense. With the internet, you will still probably get orders of magnitude more good information from sites such as this one. Haven't been back to Backpacker's forum since they screwed it up.
I use Backpacker as inspiration and a springboard, and it was particularly helpful when we first started out. I had never even heard of North Cascades National Park before I read about it in Backpacker in 2012. I also got the Heather Pass/ Maple Pass loop hike from a later Backpacker issue. I have not really used Backpacker much recently for specific hikes, but I learn about areas and things to do that I can follow up on in more detail on the internet. I also like their gear guides. Everyone has their opinion regarding trails and gear, but I find it convenient to have a centralized source of consensus information that I can build on. I really like my Big Agnes Copper Spur 3-person tent that I learned about through Backpacker, along with several other tents recommended by Backpacker and local outfitters. I came up with a short list based on the various recommendations and my requirements, then used the internet to fine tune my search and got what I have been satisfied with. My experience level is not sufficient to compare it with other tents, but it has worked fine for us in wind and rain. Anyway, I primarily use the internet for planning trips, and especially like Trails.com for its maps and trail guides and, of course, Backcountrypost for firsthand information and community of like-minded people. But for $15 a year, I still like to read Backpacker for an occasional spark of inspiration to point me somewhere, even though I might end up with something that doesn't remotely look like what I originally envisioned. For example, an article about Buckskin Gulch (which I had never heard of before) led me to find, on the internet, GSENM, Hole in the Rock Road and Coyote Gulch, Smokey Mountain, Alstrom Point, and the whole southern Utah area. I'd pay $15 for that lead every day. Still haven't done Buckskin, but it is on my list.
 
Beautiful! Spectacular views! North Cascades is on my short list of places to check out. I definitely have a thing for high elevation glacial lakes.
 
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