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- Aug 21, 2018
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September's Yellowstone trip incorporated several days/nights in the Tetons this year. I had potential hikes/itineraries planned for Mrs.TractorDoc and I during the daylight hours, but a lot was based on weather and how we were feeling at this point in the week. We were nearing five days in somewhat isolated terrain and I knew the Mrs. might want to take a trip to town (Jackson? 
) for a taste of civilization.
Luckily I had the foresight to book cabin accommodations at Signal Mountain. This put us right on Jackson Lake with the Tetons for a backdrop. While I will never admit to knowing what a woman wants at all times, I will give myself credit for knowing that Mrs.TractorDoc likes the view of a lake, the gentle sound of waves splashing, and the relaxing atmosphere of sitting on a beach with the sun warming her skin. I was not surprised when she told me the evening after our arrival that she might enjoy sitting by the lake and reading a book the next day. That sounded like a good plan for her, and it opened the door for me to tackle a day hike in some terrain I might not otherwise subject her to.
After some hasty research with patchy cell service I thought it would be nice to hike up Garnet Canyon and maybe advance to the saddle between Middle and South Tetons. It was an area I had not been to before, and we would be close because we planned on walking the Moose Ponds Loop near South Jenny Lake in the morning. One of our goals of the trip was to see some moose -- we ended up making three visits to the ponds/loop and managed to see something each day.
The Moose Ponds Loop can be accessed from the loop trail that rounds Jenny Lake. If you want to avoid the chaos that will eventually establish itself at the South Jenny Lake main parking area I'd suggest you head down to the Lupine Meadows trailhead access road. If you are lucky there are several small parking areas (before you get to the official Lupine Meadows Trailhead) that will put you right on the Moose Ponds Loop.
The full Moose Ponds Loop is roughly three miles, passes three ponds that may or may not contain moose, and provides nice views of both the Tetons and valley below them. A few pictures from our visits there.
After our morning walk Mrs.TractorDoc drove me the rest of the way to the Lupine Meadows trailhead. I hopped out and she returned to Signal Mountain to enjoy her day by the lake. We would stay in touch as cell service would allow; I estimated I'd be back at the trailhead in time for us to have dinner.
It was approximately 10AM when I passed the trailhead postings.
About ten minutes into my hike I encountered this individual and immediately felt some inadequacies about what I had packed for the day.
He had a big bag of potato chips and two liter bottle of soda strapped in there. There was another bundle of gear lashed together in a similar fashion laying along side the trail -- he must have been shuttling stuff along the way. I would encounter him again on my way back down, which I'll mention later in the report (if I can remember to).
The Valley Trail is pleasantly level and wooded in the beginning.
It begins to climb and become more rocky as I approached the Garnet Canyon Trail Junction.
I passed several groups of people on the trail and I'd greet them with a pleasant "Hello" or "Good Morning." Several asked if I was on my way to Delta Lake and if this was the correct way to it. I knew the route I was on led to several different lakes -- Amphitheater and Surprise specifically -- but after the second group asked me I looked at the phone GPS to confirm that yes, Delta Lake was also in the area.
No one seemed to be heading to Garnet Canyon. . . Delta Lake was where all the cool kids must hang out. Delta Lake was not a destination I had considered due to last minute planning. . . but maybe it should have been!
Trail junction with the Garnet Canyon, Surprise Lake, Amphitheater Lake, and (apparently) Delta Lake trails from the Valley Trail.
This part of the trail switchbacks you up a mostly open hillside with nice views down into the valley below.
My turn for Garnet Canyon. Not the way to Delta Lake.
Right away the terrain became more interesting, more rocky.
A short stretch of trail wound around a hillside and a lovely view of the Tetons jumped out.
Wide Angle View.
The official/maintained Garnet Canyon Trail ends as you approach Garnet Canyon Creek. The trail gets rockier and stops at the foot of a large boulder field.
Picture of the trail as it approaches the end.
My hasty research with spotty cell phone service told me that I'd have to cross the boulder field to continue up canyon. This seemed straightforward. . . there was even the dotted line of a trail on my map/GPS Track. The route did not look so straightforward in person though. I had no prior experience in the area and no one else was around to point me in the general direction I needed to go. I started off following the arrow on the park service sign pointed to the camping area for climbers progressing further up the canyon -- straight into the boulders.
This may have been a mistake, as sometimes arrows do not always point you in the correct direction. I maneuvered around as best I could over what I considered to be rather large boulders -- some the size of a car -- that were not always stable. As a note of how serious I was taking things I even packed my camera away because if it fell down into one of the cracks I was crawling over there would be no getting it back. A picture of what my path sort of looked like.
I fumbled my way around the boulders for a good twenty to thirty minutes. Several times I moved close enough to the end that I could see the path/trail on the other side that would lead me up the canyon. . . but I could not find a safe place to descend down to the trail in a way that I would be able to get back up. Enough time was passing that my internal clock was telling me I was getting behind schedule to reach the saddle and be back in reasonable time for dinner.
Eventually I decided to find my way back across the boulder field to the trail and hike back down canyon. This did not take as long as going up, but took longer than expected as I got turned around once or twice. In hindsight I probably should have stayed closer to the creek in finding a way up. . . but that is what next times are for and I'll have to give this hike another try on a future visit. I'm sure someone like @TheMountainRabbit will pop on here and tell me how easy the route was just off to my left. . .
Some of my GPS track in the boulder field.
A selfie below the boulder field. Score: Garnet Canyon 1, Me 0.
I hiked back down the Garnet Canyon Trail in good spirits. Sure, I was turned around by an unexpected obstacle but it was a beautiful day with potential around every corner.
Nice views of Taggart and Bradley Lakes down below with Blacktail Butte in the distance.
I arrived back at the junction with the trail that would take me up to Amphitheater and Surprise Lakes. While I had been behind schedule to reach my original destination I was ahead of schedule in terms of attending a reasonably timed dinner. This had me think back to all the people talking about Delta Lake and how it must be a must see destination. The GPS showed about a half mile to get there, so I thought I'd head that way to see what had everyone excited.
I found the unmarked spur trail to Delta Lake. . . and then I saw this sign. If I was only considering going all the way to the lake before, this posting committed me to it. . . even if just to seek some redemption from the boulder field that foiled me earlier.
There were indeed boulder fields, but they were miniscule compared to the boulders up in Garnet Canyon. I was able to scramble across these using only my feet.
I did not find the trail to be all that bad, but I have hiked a time or two in the backcountry with @scatman and those experiences tend to redefine what normal trail looks like.
I will say that the last approach to the lake is steep. Pictures and camera angles do not do justice to the climb. My heart and lungs were putting forth the most effort of the day on this stretch.
Delta Lake. It is an attractive setting with Grand Teton looming large above.
My apologies to the family from (Texas? Tennessee? I cannot remember) that I smudged out of this picture. I simply thought it looked better without you standing at the water's edge in your boxer shorts.
I hung out at the lake for a fifteen minute snack break before heading back. I can see why people would want to day hike here. . . it is probably easier to reach than Lake Solitude up Cascade Canyon.
A view heading back down the steep trail. Still not the same as being there.
The Snake River in the Valley below. The Fish Creek Fire is burning in the distance at center left.
A few wildlife encounters occurred on the trail. . . a pika and a grouse.
As I continued down the hill some afternoon rain showers began rumbling overhead. I love being able to see the rain falling off in the distance -- something not often experienced in Ohio.
Several more character encounters. I passed this couple and found the cargo in the guy's backpack interesting. Technically the dog was not on the trail. . .
They asked me how far it was to Delta Lake. I told them they had a ways to go and that they should pay attention to the weather. Some dark clouds were forming overhead.
It did start raining as I hiked downward and I stopped to put on my rain jacket. I thought the cooler air, the pelting of raindrops, and rumble of thunder added some interest to an already enjoyable hike.
At the junction of the Valley Trail I encountered the fella carrying the all the gear from earlier. He had just dropped off his first payload and was walking back to carry the second bundle up. I'm not sure where he was staying for the night but hope he made it there safely.
Farther down the Valley Trail I passed to official looking rangers. They seemed all business when I said hello. They may have been heading up to check permits, but I could not help but wonder what they would say if they encountered the couple with the dog or guy on the trail shuttling his camping gear.
I made it back to the trailhead and Mrs.TractorDoc arrived shortly after to pick me up in the rental Jeep. She said she had a very enjoyable day at the lake -- our divergence of plans turned out to be a success.
Back at Signal Mountain we set up our camp chairs on the shore of Jackson Lake after dinner and watched the sun set behind the Tetons. A great way to end a very good day!
The End.
) for a taste of civilization. Luckily I had the foresight to book cabin accommodations at Signal Mountain. This put us right on Jackson Lake with the Tetons for a backdrop. While I will never admit to knowing what a woman wants at all times, I will give myself credit for knowing that Mrs.TractorDoc likes the view of a lake, the gentle sound of waves splashing, and the relaxing atmosphere of sitting on a beach with the sun warming her skin. I was not surprised when she told me the evening after our arrival that she might enjoy sitting by the lake and reading a book the next day. That sounded like a good plan for her, and it opened the door for me to tackle a day hike in some terrain I might not otherwise subject her to.
After some hasty research with patchy cell service I thought it would be nice to hike up Garnet Canyon and maybe advance to the saddle between Middle and South Tetons. It was an area I had not been to before, and we would be close because we planned on walking the Moose Ponds Loop near South Jenny Lake in the morning. One of our goals of the trip was to see some moose -- we ended up making three visits to the ponds/loop and managed to see something each day.
The Moose Ponds Loop can be accessed from the loop trail that rounds Jenny Lake. If you want to avoid the chaos that will eventually establish itself at the South Jenny Lake main parking area I'd suggest you head down to the Lupine Meadows trailhead access road. If you are lucky there are several small parking areas (before you get to the official Lupine Meadows Trailhead) that will put you right on the Moose Ponds Loop.
The full Moose Ponds Loop is roughly three miles, passes three ponds that may or may not contain moose, and provides nice views of both the Tetons and valley below them. A few pictures from our visits there.
After our morning walk Mrs.TractorDoc drove me the rest of the way to the Lupine Meadows trailhead. I hopped out and she returned to Signal Mountain to enjoy her day by the lake. We would stay in touch as cell service would allow; I estimated I'd be back at the trailhead in time for us to have dinner.
It was approximately 10AM when I passed the trailhead postings.
About ten minutes into my hike I encountered this individual and immediately felt some inadequacies about what I had packed for the day.
He had a big bag of potato chips and two liter bottle of soda strapped in there.
There was another bundle of gear lashed together in a similar fashion laying along side the trail -- he must have been shuttling stuff along the way. I would encounter him again on my way back down, which I'll mention later in the report (if I can remember to). The Valley Trail is pleasantly level and wooded in the beginning.
It begins to climb and become more rocky as I approached the Garnet Canyon Trail Junction.
I passed several groups of people on the trail and I'd greet them with a pleasant "Hello" or "Good Morning." Several asked if I was on my way to Delta Lake and if this was the correct way to it. I knew the route I was on led to several different lakes -- Amphitheater and Surprise specifically -- but after the second group asked me I looked at the phone GPS to confirm that yes, Delta Lake was also in the area.
No one seemed to be heading to Garnet Canyon. . . Delta Lake was where all the cool kids must hang out. Delta Lake was not a destination I had considered due to last minute planning. . . but maybe it should have been!
Trail junction with the Garnet Canyon, Surprise Lake, Amphitheater Lake, and (apparently) Delta Lake trails from the Valley Trail.
This part of the trail switchbacks you up a mostly open hillside with nice views down into the valley below.
My turn for Garnet Canyon. Not the way to Delta Lake.
Right away the terrain became more interesting, more rocky.
A short stretch of trail wound around a hillside and a lovely view of the Tetons jumped out.
Wide Angle View.
The official/maintained Garnet Canyon Trail ends as you approach Garnet Canyon Creek. The trail gets rockier and stops at the foot of a large boulder field.
Picture of the trail as it approaches the end.
My hasty research with spotty cell phone service told me that I'd have to cross the boulder field to continue up canyon. This seemed straightforward. . . there was even the dotted line of a trail on my map/GPS Track. The route did not look so straightforward in person though. I had no prior experience in the area and no one else was around to point me in the general direction I needed to go. I started off following the arrow on the park service sign pointed to the camping area for climbers progressing further up the canyon -- straight into the boulders.
This may have been a mistake, as sometimes arrows do not always point you in the correct direction. I maneuvered around as best I could over what I considered to be rather large boulders -- some the size of a car -- that were not always stable. As a note of how serious I was taking things I even packed my camera away because if it fell down into one of the cracks I was crawling over there would be no getting it back. A picture of what my path sort of looked like.
I fumbled my way around the boulders for a good twenty to thirty minutes. Several times I moved close enough to the end that I could see the path/trail on the other side that would lead me up the canyon. . . but I could not find a safe place to descend down to the trail in a way that I would be able to get back up. Enough time was passing that my internal clock was telling me I was getting behind schedule to reach the saddle and be back in reasonable time for dinner.
Eventually I decided to find my way back across the boulder field to the trail and hike back down canyon. This did not take as long as going up, but took longer than expected as I got turned around once or twice. In hindsight I probably should have stayed closer to the creek in finding a way up. . . but that is what next times are for and I'll have to give this hike another try on a future visit. I'm sure someone like @TheMountainRabbit will pop on here and tell me how easy the route was just off to my left. . .
Some of my GPS track in the boulder field.
A selfie below the boulder field. Score: Garnet Canyon 1, Me 0.
I hiked back down the Garnet Canyon Trail in good spirits. Sure, I was turned around by an unexpected obstacle but it was a beautiful day with potential around every corner.
Nice views of Taggart and Bradley Lakes down below with Blacktail Butte in the distance.
I arrived back at the junction with the trail that would take me up to Amphitheater and Surprise Lakes. While I had been behind schedule to reach my original destination I was ahead of schedule in terms of attending a reasonably timed dinner. This had me think back to all the people talking about Delta Lake and how it must be a must see destination. The GPS showed about a half mile to get there, so I thought I'd head that way to see what had everyone excited.
I found the unmarked spur trail to Delta Lake. . . and then I saw this sign. If I was only considering going all the way to the lake before, this posting committed me to it. . . even if just to seek some redemption from the boulder field that foiled me earlier.
There were indeed boulder fields, but they were miniscule compared to the boulders up in Garnet Canyon. I was able to scramble across these using only my feet.
I did not find the trail to be all that bad, but I have hiked a time or two in the backcountry with @scatman and those experiences tend to redefine what normal trail looks like.
I will say that the last approach to the lake is steep. Pictures and camera angles do not do justice to the climb. My heart and lungs were putting forth the most effort of the day on this stretch.
Delta Lake. It is an attractive setting with Grand Teton looming large above.
My apologies to the family from (Texas? Tennessee? I cannot remember) that I smudged out of this picture. I simply thought it looked better without you standing at the water's edge in your boxer shorts.
I hung out at the lake for a fifteen minute snack break before heading back. I can see why people would want to day hike here. . . it is probably easier to reach than Lake Solitude up Cascade Canyon.
A view heading back down the steep trail. Still not the same as being there.
The Snake River in the Valley below. The Fish Creek Fire is burning in the distance at center left.
A few wildlife encounters occurred on the trail. . . a pika and a grouse.
As I continued down the hill some afternoon rain showers began rumbling overhead. I love being able to see the rain falling off in the distance -- something not often experienced in Ohio.
Several more character encounters. I passed this couple and found the cargo in the guy's backpack interesting. Technically the dog was not on the trail. . .
They asked me how far it was to Delta Lake. I told them they had a ways to go and that they should pay attention to the weather. Some dark clouds were forming overhead.
It did start raining as I hiked downward and I stopped to put on my rain jacket. I thought the cooler air, the pelting of raindrops, and rumble of thunder added some interest to an already enjoyable hike.
At the junction of the Valley Trail I encountered the fella carrying the all the gear from earlier. He had just dropped off his first payload and was walking back to carry the second bundle up. I'm not sure where he was staying for the night but hope he made it there safely.
Farther down the Valley Trail I passed to official looking rangers. They seemed all business when I said hello. They may have been heading up to check permits, but I could not help but wonder what they would say if they encountered the couple with the dog or guy on the trail shuttling his camping gear.
I made it back to the trailhead and Mrs.TractorDoc arrived shortly after to pick me up in the rental Jeep. She said she had a very enjoyable day at the lake -- our divergence of plans turned out to be a success.
Back at Signal Mountain we set up our camp chairs on the shore of Jackson Lake after dinner and watched the sun set behind the Tetons. A great way to end a very good day!
The End.
