Lucking out at Lake O'Hara

SteveR

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I took my own advice given in a previous Canadian Rockies thread- about late cancellations being somewhat commonly available for camping at Lake O'Hara, so after our Labour Day weekend Bugaboo plans fell through due to forest closures as a result of extreme fire hazard, I got on the phone to O'Hara in Yoho National Park first thing on the Monday morning prior to the long weekend. Bingo! An opening had come up for a camp spot on Saturday night. Two nights would have been ideal- but one was better than nothing.
After the bumpy school bus ride up the limited access O'Hara road on September 1, and a quick setup in the campground which while more akin to a frontcountry one, is nonetheless a pleasant place to stay-
we were on our way around the "Alpine Circuit". The initial grind up a slidepath was a small price to pay, once the glory of O'Hara revealed itself:
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After the entertaining section of rocky ledges- there was a bit more of a grunt ahead to gain Wiwaxy Col:
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At Wiwaxy Col, looking north to Cathedral Mountain, and the Wapta Icefield in the distance. After a summer plagued by skies obscured by forest fire smoke- it was a treat to have such clarity, which had been rare lately:
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Abandoning the col all too soon in the face of sudden winds, we continued on along the Huber Ledges section of the route. Lake Oesa began to show as the trail rounded the shoulder of Mt. Huber:
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We have done this route many times- this scene never gets old!:
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A late lunch at Oesa:
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No need to hurry on such a fine afternoon:
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After nearly an hour relaxing, and wandering the shores, the shadows began to fall from the high peaks that ring the Oesa basin:
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So-we continued around into the sun, on the way to Opabin via the Yukness Ledges:
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Some fall color was starting to appear on the larches, above a birds eye view of Lake O'Hara from the Alpine Route:
IMGP8778-copy-3.jpgHungabee Lake beckoned as the trail descended to the Opabin Plateau:
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And...another fine spot to while away the late day sun:
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Where we met one of the full time residents of the Opabin Plateau:
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Opting out of the final stretch of the circuit- we started back to camp on the middle route through the plateau, which takes in a series of meadows, cascades and tarns:
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We woke up after a comfortable, and a very warm for the rockies in September night, to find overcast skies, and the return of the smoky haze which drifted in and out all day. Schaffer Lake, on the way to Lake McArthur:
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Pockets of wildflowers were still hanging in along the high route to McArthur:
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While the light could have been better, it was hard to complain when visiting one of the iconic places of the Canadian Rockies:
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An all too brief moment of sun illuminated Lake McArthur as we walked the lakeside cliffs:
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Fireweed made for a nice contrast with the brilliant glacial blue of the lake:
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At it's lakeside home, this denizen was busy trying to fatten up for winter, potentially as a snack for the resident grizzly who had left pits all over the meadows- by begging from the "tourists":
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Bees were busy too, harvesting the last of the summers bounty:
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A look behind at the panorama as we left the lake:
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We have always preferred the highline route to and from McArthur, for it's superior views compared to the lower trail:
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With a bit of time to kill before catching the bus out- we took the longer Big Larches trail on the return, which offered a nice parting view:
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After lingering a bit too long at the scene above, while waiting in vain for some spotlighting on Lake O'Hara, we barely made it back to the campground in time to load up for the 4:30 bus out.
A bit sad to have to leave after only one night, but despite that, and the hassles of getting into this area where access and visitor numbers are tightly controlled- it was more than worth the relatively minor effort. Of course- it helped to have luck on our side!
 
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Holy Smokes those photos are beautiful. I spent 1 day in Yoho over 10 years ago but didn't have time to get very far backcountry. Add this one to the future list! Thanks for sharing!
 
That's a great spot. Been far too long since I have been there...
 
Stunning and well captured.
 
Seeing these photos, I really wish I had been able to experience the full O'Hara experience earlier this summer. I'm definitely going back.

Out of curiosity, how were the crowds? Campground was full I assume, but were there tons of people just hanging out? Or were most off hiking most of the day?
 
Campground and day hiking quotas were filled, probably from the first hour on the first day in spring when bookings start being taken. The campground as you know is compact and is not really a backcountry experience, but we did not mind. There were several young families there- when one of the moms apologized for their rambunctious behaviour we told her how great it was to see them having fun, and how it reminded us of our trips there, when our now grown-up daughters were that age. We have always enjoyed the social aspect of the O'Hara campground, but due to the extreme fire conditions this summer, there was no communal campfire at night. By about 9pm, things got really quiet. It looked to me like everyone including the families were planning on hiking during the day. Apparently, there has been a huge increase in recent years of hikers slogging up the 11 km of access road to do dayhikes up there. This remains unrestricted for now, but there are rumours that a quota may be set for that too. Once out on the trails it didn't seem busy at all, but I wouldn't go to O'Hara expecting a true "wilderness" experience- you will meet more than a few others on the trail in peak season.
 
The time I camped there, (a long time ago now) there was a family of short-tailed weasels that had made a home near our site. Made for some epic shots (on slide film).
 
That has got to be one of the most beautiful areas I have seen online! I am sure being there in the flesh was even better! I need to look into Canadian trips. Damn beautiful up there! Thanks for sharing!
 
Fantastic! My favorite photos are the 1st, 4th, and 6th. Absolutely gorgeous!
 
Those are some seriously amazing photos! Makes me want to fly up there.
 
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