AdamE
Member
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2012
- Messages
- 17
I’d been wanting to get into the Maze for several years, since hiking out to the Confluence Overlook in the Needles about ten years ago with my then-teenage son Phil and reading about all the adventures out there of Ed Abbey and the Monkey Wrench heroes. Phil and I came close last September, canoeing down Stillwater Canyon and hiking up from Spanish Bottom into the Doll House.
Phil by the Doll House Jeep Road, 9-11
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911477909390754
NPS Poster Board at the beginning of the Doll House
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/June62012#5750913525136745682
So, while we technically made it into the Maze District, we didn’t get into the Maze itself. Doesn’t count! So close, yet so far.
The time had come – I was ready. After extensive planning, I scheduled a trip for mid May, got the necessary permits and began provisioning and training for the several day backpack. Not entirely confident of my 4WD driving abilities, I planned instead to get to the Maze by taking Tex’s Riverways down the river and hiking up from Spanish Bottom. To get in shape I wandered around for several weeks with a 50 lb backpack in the wilds of the Bronx, getting very strange looks from people, especially those in police cars. I canvassed dozens of family members, pals and acquaintances, who uniformly thought it was a cool idea in theory, but all of whom ended up passing on the chance to come along.
Finally I stumbled upon one of Nick’s postings of a trip to the Maze last year. In the comments section I found a response from Philippe with his email address, who also wanted to get to the Maze. I got in touch with Philippe and he couldn’t make the trip, but he turned me on to backcountrypost.com (Turns out Philippe was in NYC just last week with his wife Elisabeth en route to Red Rock country. I gave them a tour of my neighborhood in Skyscraper National Park and we had a great lunch together at this obscure Russian-Bukharan restaurant – nice to make new friends from backcountrypost.com – thanks, Nick!).
I had mentioned in my posting that I had a few extra spaces on my permit, and Nate responded. We had a few back and forths to check out our relative experience and creds, and we were on. Nate’s the expert photographer, so I was freed from picture taking duties, which is why this TR is pretty thin on photos and is mostly photos of me (I’ll leave it to Nate to include his fantastic shots in his TR).
I flew to SLC on Sunday, May 13 with Phil, who at the last minute freed up and decided to come out with me to Moab, even though he wasn’t provisioned for the backpacking trip and hadn’t trained. His plan was to base himself in Moab while Nate and I were in the backcountry, do some day hiking in the Needles and Arches and watch the hockey playoffs in a sports bar. And that’s what he did.
We drove down quickly from SLC, and drove straight to Island in the Sky, checking out the Grandview Point trail to gaze across at the Maze and going to the Green River Overlook to see our old friends Turks Head and Deadhorse Canyon, where we had camped on our canoe trek last fall.
Green River Overlook towards Turks Head, Dead Horse Canyon, the Maze, 9-11
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/June6201202#5750914257789316994
Day 1 – Monday, May 14: Spanish Bottom to Doll House to Water Canyon: We arrived at Tex’s and met Nate, who drove down the night before from Salt Lake, took some great star shots at Arches and then hung out in Tex’s parking lot. We loaded up the van and drove to Potash. Even though Phil wasn’t backpacking with us, he decided to take the boat ride down and back up the Colorado, which is an incredible trip in itself. We met some great folks, Linda and Robert, Americans who live in the Virgin Islands, who were doing a leisurely float down the Colorado. I want to be like them when I grow up.
Since it was relatively early in the morning and a cool day, the jet boat ride was freezing. We say many blue herons, much more than we had seen during our entire 5 day canoe trip last September.
Mike quickly dropped us off at the dug out steps at Spanish Bottom, we said our goodbyes to Mike and to Phil and to a few canoeists who were being picked up there, and were on our own.
Hiking up from Spanish Bottom to the Doll House with a full pack is a bit of a jolt, especially since the last time I hiked here it was with just a light day pack. Both Nate and I had done serious and extensive day hiking before, but this was the first extended backpacking trip for both of us. No amount of training can prepare you for that moment when you first shoulder the pack and begin climbing!
We made it up to and through the Doll House to the jeep road. My original plan had been to slog out to Chimney Rock and set up base camp in the vicinity for 3 nights and then go down into Pictograph Canyon each day to get water. Bad idea, and both Nick and the rangers at Hans Flat advised against it. They advised instead to do a loop, using the Beehive Arch, Green River and Colorado Overlook Trail and connector to Water Canyon-Shot Canyon and then to work our way up to Chimney Rock and the Maze. Their advice was good and I’m glad I wasn’t so in love with my own plans that I refused to be flexible. That’s how people can get into serious trouble out there.
We started down the Beehive Arch trail (almost walking right past the Arch) and stopped at a small cave to cool off (Nate’s pictures in there are amazing). Then there was a fair amount of tiring slogging. It was a great relief to finally get to the large park where the Water Canyon connector trail meets the trail. By the way, the National Geographic map has the trail wrong, the Green River-Colorado viewpoint loop begins about ¼ past where the connector trail meets up, not at the same junction.
We had originally thought about putting our packs down at the junction, and exploring the overlooks, but were getting tired and decided to carry on. After about another 1 ½ miles across the park, we then had a few descents where we lowered our packs by rope. In fact, of all our ascents and descents (Up Shot Canyon, down into the Maze from the Pete’s Mesa trail and up out of Pictograph Fork), we used the rope here more than anywhere else. Shortly after that pack lining, we came upon the large black limestone shelf and heard the sounds of dripping water (music to the ears!). We climbed down into the bowl via the trail and found the beautiful, lush and cool Water Canyon seep. Nate cracked out his new Platypus gravity filter and we took turns filling up the “dirty” sack and purifying the water. Not sure it needed purification, but it was fun and refreshing getting soaked while holding the pouch up to the seeps. Nate also used one of the adjacent pools to cool a bottle of something somewhat stronger than natural water.
After filling up with water and cooling off, we climbed back up to the limestone shelf and searched for a good campsite. Nate found a beauty, about 100 yards up canyon on the left – a flat sandy alcove underneath a huge overhang.
Campsite at Water Canyon
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911423144587506
Cool and shaded from the elements in case of rain. Eliminated the need for a fly on our tents. We basically dawdled setting up camp and eating dinner and made it an early night. Nate dabbled in taking some astounding star track and night shots.
Day 2—Tuesday, May 15: Green and Colorado Overlooks and Hanging in Water Canyon: Great stars and beautiful morning. We were out and about well before 8 AM, this time with daypacks only. We walked back the way we came, to explore the Green River and Colorado River overlooks. Easy walking back thorough the park to the Doll House trail junction. Then past that junction a bit and a quick sighting of something slithering to the right of the path by a small bush and the tell-tale rattling. Yikes! We stepped back (me in the lead with my hiking stick) and saw a very thin rattler coiled with its head up. Discretion being the better part of valor, and we retreated a bit, and swung a wide circle to the left (over some macrobiotic crust, sorry NPS!) and back to the path. The serpent left us alone and off we went.
The trail goes close to the edge and then it was off trail wandering- first to some astounding views upstream and downstream of the Colorado and then around the curve to see the Confluence and up the Green.
Colorado, looking upriver
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911441381216850
Looking up the Green towards Mile #3
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911460186826482
I saw the bend in the Green at Mile #3, where Phil and I camped last September at our campsite #4 on a narrow sandbank, ate soggy salsa and chips and drank warm beer with my pal Bruce. Very exciting to see it from another perspective, about 1,000 feet higher than the river itself.
Very narrow sand beach at Green River Mile #3, 9-11
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/June6201203#5750915958425285298
We then worked our way back around the loop and back to camp at Water Canyon, walking very slowly with my stick in front of me near the rattlesnake sighting. No signs of it this time, thankfully.
On our way back to camp, we bumped into Brad, a ranger from the Needles hiking in the Maze on his days off. Very good guy, and we told him to look out for Phil and some other folks who we met on the plane from NYC and who planned to be in the Needles backcountry later in the week.
Ranger Brad on connector trail
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911469107509170
We had a slow lunch and a siesta (it was getting hot), and Nate went off upcanyon for some more photography.
In the late afternoon and early evening, we walked down Water Canyon a bit, down to where it gets very steep and there’s a view of the Green River far below. I recognized the thicket where we tried to drag our canoes, with Phil getting stuck waist-deep in muck and quicksand. Nice to come full circle.
Looking down Water Canyon to the Green below
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911559151397778
Water Canyon meets the Green River, and the muck, 9-11
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911306958028098
Back as it got dark and a nice quiet dinner and early to bed. Not as strenuous a day, and certainly worthwhile taking a breather from lugging a full backpack, but still some good walks of about 6-7 miles all told.
Day 3—Wednesday, May 16: The Pass, Shot Canyon, Chimney Rock to Pete’s Mesa Trail and down into Maze, Pictograph Confluence, Maze Overlook: Busy day. Out early from our wonderful camp in Water Canyon. I evidently packed my backpack poorly, a bottom pocket wasn’t correctly zipped up, and some food packages (trail mix, nuts, etc.) kept falling out and we had to stop and rezip. I had also foolishly put my eyeglass case in there with my prescription glasses.
Leaving Water Canyon, bad packing job
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911462372612578
Although we salvaged my various food packages, we didn’t notice that the glass case had fallen out until the end of the day, when we were far away in Pictograph Canyon under the Chocolate Drops. Oops! They probably fell out in the pass between Water and Shot canyons, so if anyone finds a case out there, please let me know!
Climbing up and over the Pass was smooth and the walk up Shot Canyon was pleasant. The final climb out, before the stone steps, was a bit tricky, and after a relatively simple climb up a ledge, I leaned too far over, my pack swung over my head and I tumbled down and scraped my forehead a bit. Nothing serious, but I was a bit spooked. We took a minute for me to catch my breath and survey the minimal damage and on we went. I guess that’s why it’s always worth having an emergency kit and some rudiments of training in back country first aid. Fortunately it wasn’t needed.
Climbing out of Shot Canyon
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911431259594402
Up to the top of Shot Canyon and then a relatively gentle climb to Chimney Rock. It was exciting to finally get to see that landmark I had seen so often in pictures. We were cooled by a brief drizzle and some overcast weather, and Nate got some beautiful cloud shots.
Approaching Chimney Rock from Shot Canyon
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911423804069218
We rested briefly at Chimney Rock and had some snacks. Only one car was there, a bright yellow SUV with Montana plates. We then started off along the Pete’s Mesa trail towards our entrance into the Maze. Easy walking with amazing 360o views of the Standing Rocks, the Chocolate Drops, Ekker Butte and Elaterite Butte and even the Island in the Sky in the distance.
Leaving Chimney Rock to Pete’s Mesa trail
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Resting along Pete’s Mesa trail with a view of the Chocolate Drops
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Along Pete’s Mesa trail
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Suddenly the trail turned hard left and we begin descending. There were one or two descents involving lining or sliding the packs down, but mostly just gently going down.
Down into the Maze
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Near the end in a narrow canyon is tree stump conveniently used a banister down some stone steps, and then we reached a very sandy bottom. We met two folks who owned the yellow Montana SUV, who were doing the Pictograph loop as a day hike. We walked down canyon, and things gradually widened, until finally we saw the large Nuts and Bolts formation in the distance and some lush grasses and cottonwoods and knew we were at the Pictograph Confluence. We poked around a bit until we found the spring, which was nothing more than a puddle surrounded by three or four flat rocks. Using an empty iced tea bottle we found en route (the only garbage we found along the entire trip), we bailed the puddle into Nate’s gravity filter and started purifying. This would be the last source of water for us for the rest of the trip.
The spring was amazing. Even though the puddle was no more than 6 inches deep, each time we drained it with the iced tea bottle, the puddle slowly filled up again from a very sluggish shallow stream seeping out of some low rocks about 10 ft away. Once our bottles were filled, I took the iced tea bottle, went around the bend and poured it over my head and on my feet. Ahhh! Felt good!
We found an astounding campsite about 200 yards into Pictograph Canyon right at the first bend, with a beautiful view of the Chocolate Drops. Set up camp and had a nice dinner. It was here that I realized I had lost my glasses and had to rely on my prescription sunglasses.
After dinner we strolled over to the Maze Overlook Trail. I was pretty tired and just went to the foot of the trail. It was getting dark and I didn’t want to do the hike up in sunglasses. Nate went up a bit and got some beautiful shots and I strolled back to the campsite. Even though the route was pretty straightforward, I could see how easy it is to get disoriented in the Maze and get totally lost, especially as daylight is waning. Fortunately, we both made it back safely to camp and had another early night.
Campsite in Pictograph Fork right below the Chocolate Drops
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911428600144050
A late night expedition for bladder emptying wearing my sunglasses was an adventure!
Day 4—Pictograph Fork to Chimney Rock and Back to the Doll House and Beehive Arch Trail: Another long and beautiful day. Started early and got our last supply of water from the spring at Picto Confluence. Then up Pictograph Canyon, slogging through sand as the sun rose higher and higher. Great stop at Harvest Scene. Kept on slogging, one detour down a side canyon and then back on track to exit up towards Chimney Rock. The last part of the climb out was pretty steep and we were getting pretty winded and stopped several times. No need to line the packs at all, and given all the other climbs in and out of canyons, this seemed to be the least challenging.
Nice gentle climb up to Chimney Rock and then time to relax for lunch. Met two guys who had been camping below Maze Overlook the night before (Nate saw their campsite) who were going down into Water Canyon. Nate then went off for a long photo shoot to the head of Jasper Canyon and I reorganized my pack and rested. Tried to email or call my wife back home to FedEx a spare pair of glasses to Tex’s for pickup, but alas, no signal.
We then walked down the jeep road back to the Doll House. The sun was high, it was hot, and we were kind of tired, so it was a challenge. We turned at the Beehive Arch trailhead and made our way down the trail into the permitted camping area and set up camp for our last night.
Met an interesting fellow ambling up the trail – Richie from NY and LA, who was car camping at the Doll House in an ’84 pickup truck and had dayhiked to the overlooks and then gone down to the Green River at One Mile Canyon, taken a dip, took a half gallon of river water and scrambled back up. We debated the merits of Canyonlands vs. Capitol Reef. Colorful character and a serious backcountry guy.
After dinner, we took a quick hike back to the Doll House and the long loop around to the Surprise Valley Overlook. Astounding views. Still want to camp up there beyond the Valley (where there’s no camping allowed) up on the mesa to the east abutting the river. Maybe next trip.
Back to camp and early to bed. Best sleep of the entire expedition.
Day 5: Down to Spanish Bottom and pick up: Up early, breaking camp and heading back to the Doll House and down to Spanish Bottom. Definitely easier going down than coming up, and for me, the sticks definitely helped the knees. Also, of course, the pack was a bit lighter without as much food and water- we were each down to less than a bottle since we knew Tex’s had cold water aboard.
We made it down to the landing and met a hardy hiker Johnnie, from Tag Along, who was spending a few days off at the far end of Spanish Bottom above the floodplain. Really knew his stuff about the river and backcountry. Good guy. I shared some of my wife Alisa’s banana-coconut-blueberry fruit leather.
I took a stroll down river to the first rapids, Brown Betty, dipped my hat in the rushing water and cooled off.
About a dozen rafters came down river and tied up at Spanish Bottom and were up for a quick jaunt to the Doll House. Pretty boisterous and exuberant. They said we could just climb over their rafts to get to Tex’s boat when they arrived.
Mike arrived to pick us up and several canoe parties along the way. Saw Lynda and Robert from the Virgin Islands again, and they had a great canoe trip down the Colorado, almost to the Confluence.
Linda, with Nate and Adam looking pretty tired, on the way back to Potash
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911636504330402
Back to Potash and the ride to Tex’s. Mike was an incredible river pilot and fount of knowledge of the area in general and the Maze in particular. We sorted out our gear, said goodbye to new friends, and I called Alisa in NYC to let her know I survived and was picked up by Phil, who had his own adventures in the Needles and the area.
Phil and I crashed on Saturday in a condo south of town near the golf course. Big ATV weekend, so the place was crowded. Interesting to see so many different outdoor sub –communities in Moab – rafters, canoers, dayhikers, backpackers, bikers, ATVers, SUVers – all loving this desert paradise.
On Sunday, we did Murphy Hogback. Great views of the Green and over to the Maze. I was warned that the climb back up was a slog, but without a backpack it was a piece of cake. I guess those few days in the backcountry really made a difference.
The Murphy Hogback trailhead shares a parking lot with the Murphy Point trailhead, which is a very gentle trail. Very interesting – when you meet hardcore hikers in the backcounty, they’re generally very friendly and share advice, tips, etc. But the folks at the parking lot were very reserved – sort of like the crowds you see at Old Faithful or Delicate Arch, everybody uptight and embarrassed. Sort of ashamed to be saying hello to anyone. I knew I was back in civilization.
After the hike, quick swing back into town to check at Tex’s to see if anyone turned up with my eyeglasses (alas, no) and to Lema’s Kokopelli for a pendant for Alisa to bring home (last year when I mentioned to them that I was returning from several days in the backcountry and needed a peace offering for my wife, the Lema’s folks said, yeah, we get a lot of that here…). They have beautiful things, and I chose well – the gift, and my safe return, was welcomed!
Then leaving Moab, a quick stop at the truck stop in Green River for a shower and up to SLC for the red-eye back to NYC.
Anyway, great trip. It required lots of logistical planning and training, and a leap of tremendous faith. When the slogging and climbing got hard and there were various aches and pains, I just kept telling myself that I’d trained months for this and could do it. And somehow I did. And now, as time passes, the trip seems easier and easier!
Phil by the Doll House Jeep Road, 9-11
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911477909390754
NPS Poster Board at the beginning of the Doll House
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/June62012#5750913525136745682
So, while we technically made it into the Maze District, we didn’t get into the Maze itself. Doesn’t count! So close, yet so far.
The time had come – I was ready. After extensive planning, I scheduled a trip for mid May, got the necessary permits and began provisioning and training for the several day backpack. Not entirely confident of my 4WD driving abilities, I planned instead to get to the Maze by taking Tex’s Riverways down the river and hiking up from Spanish Bottom. To get in shape I wandered around for several weeks with a 50 lb backpack in the wilds of the Bronx, getting very strange looks from people, especially those in police cars. I canvassed dozens of family members, pals and acquaintances, who uniformly thought it was a cool idea in theory, but all of whom ended up passing on the chance to come along.
Finally I stumbled upon one of Nick’s postings of a trip to the Maze last year. In the comments section I found a response from Philippe with his email address, who also wanted to get to the Maze. I got in touch with Philippe and he couldn’t make the trip, but he turned me on to backcountrypost.com (Turns out Philippe was in NYC just last week with his wife Elisabeth en route to Red Rock country. I gave them a tour of my neighborhood in Skyscraper National Park and we had a great lunch together at this obscure Russian-Bukharan restaurant – nice to make new friends from backcountrypost.com – thanks, Nick!).
I had mentioned in my posting that I had a few extra spaces on my permit, and Nate responded. We had a few back and forths to check out our relative experience and creds, and we were on. Nate’s the expert photographer, so I was freed from picture taking duties, which is why this TR is pretty thin on photos and is mostly photos of me (I’ll leave it to Nate to include his fantastic shots in his TR).
I flew to SLC on Sunday, May 13 with Phil, who at the last minute freed up and decided to come out with me to Moab, even though he wasn’t provisioned for the backpacking trip and hadn’t trained. His plan was to base himself in Moab while Nate and I were in the backcountry, do some day hiking in the Needles and Arches and watch the hockey playoffs in a sports bar. And that’s what he did.
We drove down quickly from SLC, and drove straight to Island in the Sky, checking out the Grandview Point trail to gaze across at the Maze and going to the Green River Overlook to see our old friends Turks Head and Deadhorse Canyon, where we had camped on our canoe trek last fall.
Green River Overlook towards Turks Head, Dead Horse Canyon, the Maze, 9-11
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/June6201202#5750914257789316994
Day 1 – Monday, May 14: Spanish Bottom to Doll House to Water Canyon: We arrived at Tex’s and met Nate, who drove down the night before from Salt Lake, took some great star shots at Arches and then hung out in Tex’s parking lot. We loaded up the van and drove to Potash. Even though Phil wasn’t backpacking with us, he decided to take the boat ride down and back up the Colorado, which is an incredible trip in itself. We met some great folks, Linda and Robert, Americans who live in the Virgin Islands, who were doing a leisurely float down the Colorado. I want to be like them when I grow up.
Since it was relatively early in the morning and a cool day, the jet boat ride was freezing. We say many blue herons, much more than we had seen during our entire 5 day canoe trip last September.
Mike quickly dropped us off at the dug out steps at Spanish Bottom, we said our goodbyes to Mike and to Phil and to a few canoeists who were being picked up there, and were on our own.
Hiking up from Spanish Bottom to the Doll House with a full pack is a bit of a jolt, especially since the last time I hiked here it was with just a light day pack. Both Nate and I had done serious and extensive day hiking before, but this was the first extended backpacking trip for both of us. No amount of training can prepare you for that moment when you first shoulder the pack and begin climbing!
We made it up to and through the Doll House to the jeep road. My original plan had been to slog out to Chimney Rock and set up base camp in the vicinity for 3 nights and then go down into Pictograph Canyon each day to get water. Bad idea, and both Nick and the rangers at Hans Flat advised against it. They advised instead to do a loop, using the Beehive Arch, Green River and Colorado Overlook Trail and connector to Water Canyon-Shot Canyon and then to work our way up to Chimney Rock and the Maze. Their advice was good and I’m glad I wasn’t so in love with my own plans that I refused to be flexible. That’s how people can get into serious trouble out there.
We started down the Beehive Arch trail (almost walking right past the Arch) and stopped at a small cave to cool off (Nate’s pictures in there are amazing). Then there was a fair amount of tiring slogging. It was a great relief to finally get to the large park where the Water Canyon connector trail meets the trail. By the way, the National Geographic map has the trail wrong, the Green River-Colorado viewpoint loop begins about ¼ past where the connector trail meets up, not at the same junction.
We had originally thought about putting our packs down at the junction, and exploring the overlooks, but were getting tired and decided to carry on. After about another 1 ½ miles across the park, we then had a few descents where we lowered our packs by rope. In fact, of all our ascents and descents (Up Shot Canyon, down into the Maze from the Pete’s Mesa trail and up out of Pictograph Fork), we used the rope here more than anywhere else. Shortly after that pack lining, we came upon the large black limestone shelf and heard the sounds of dripping water (music to the ears!). We climbed down into the bowl via the trail and found the beautiful, lush and cool Water Canyon seep. Nate cracked out his new Platypus gravity filter and we took turns filling up the “dirty” sack and purifying the water. Not sure it needed purification, but it was fun and refreshing getting soaked while holding the pouch up to the seeps. Nate also used one of the adjacent pools to cool a bottle of something somewhat stronger than natural water.
After filling up with water and cooling off, we climbed back up to the limestone shelf and searched for a good campsite. Nate found a beauty, about 100 yards up canyon on the left – a flat sandy alcove underneath a huge overhang.
Campsite at Water Canyon
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911423144587506
Cool and shaded from the elements in case of rain. Eliminated the need for a fly on our tents. We basically dawdled setting up camp and eating dinner and made it an early night. Nate dabbled in taking some astounding star track and night shots.
Day 2—Tuesday, May 15: Green and Colorado Overlooks and Hanging in Water Canyon: Great stars and beautiful morning. We were out and about well before 8 AM, this time with daypacks only. We walked back the way we came, to explore the Green River and Colorado River overlooks. Easy walking back thorough the park to the Doll House trail junction. Then past that junction a bit and a quick sighting of something slithering to the right of the path by a small bush and the tell-tale rattling. Yikes! We stepped back (me in the lead with my hiking stick) and saw a very thin rattler coiled with its head up. Discretion being the better part of valor, and we retreated a bit, and swung a wide circle to the left (over some macrobiotic crust, sorry NPS!) and back to the path. The serpent left us alone and off we went.
The trail goes close to the edge and then it was off trail wandering- first to some astounding views upstream and downstream of the Colorado and then around the curve to see the Confluence and up the Green.
Colorado, looking upriver
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911441381216850
Looking up the Green towards Mile #3
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911460186826482
I saw the bend in the Green at Mile #3, where Phil and I camped last September at our campsite #4 on a narrow sandbank, ate soggy salsa and chips and drank warm beer with my pal Bruce. Very exciting to see it from another perspective, about 1,000 feet higher than the river itself.
Very narrow sand beach at Green River Mile #3, 9-11
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/June6201203#5750915958425285298
We then worked our way back around the loop and back to camp at Water Canyon, walking very slowly with my stick in front of me near the rattlesnake sighting. No signs of it this time, thankfully.
On our way back to camp, we bumped into Brad, a ranger from the Needles hiking in the Maze on his days off. Very good guy, and we told him to look out for Phil and some other folks who we met on the plane from NYC and who planned to be in the Needles backcountry later in the week.
Ranger Brad on connector trail
https://picasaweb.google.com/111024238820411329297/TheMazeTripReport#5750911469107509170
We had a slow lunch and a siesta (it was getting hot), and Nate went off upcanyon for some more photography.
In the late afternoon and early evening, we walked down Water Canyon a bit, down to where it gets very steep and there’s a view of the Green River far below. I recognized the thicket where we tried to drag our canoes, with Phil getting stuck waist-deep in muck and quicksand. Nice to come full circle.
Looking down Water Canyon to the Green below
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Water Canyon meets the Green River, and the muck, 9-11
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Back as it got dark and a nice quiet dinner and early to bed. Not as strenuous a day, and certainly worthwhile taking a breather from lugging a full backpack, but still some good walks of about 6-7 miles all told.
Day 3—Wednesday, May 16: The Pass, Shot Canyon, Chimney Rock to Pete’s Mesa Trail and down into Maze, Pictograph Confluence, Maze Overlook: Busy day. Out early from our wonderful camp in Water Canyon. I evidently packed my backpack poorly, a bottom pocket wasn’t correctly zipped up, and some food packages (trail mix, nuts, etc.) kept falling out and we had to stop and rezip. I had also foolishly put my eyeglass case in there with my prescription glasses.
Leaving Water Canyon, bad packing job
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Although we salvaged my various food packages, we didn’t notice that the glass case had fallen out until the end of the day, when we were far away in Pictograph Canyon under the Chocolate Drops. Oops! They probably fell out in the pass between Water and Shot canyons, so if anyone finds a case out there, please let me know!
Climbing up and over the Pass was smooth and the walk up Shot Canyon was pleasant. The final climb out, before the stone steps, was a bit tricky, and after a relatively simple climb up a ledge, I leaned too far over, my pack swung over my head and I tumbled down and scraped my forehead a bit. Nothing serious, but I was a bit spooked. We took a minute for me to catch my breath and survey the minimal damage and on we went. I guess that’s why it’s always worth having an emergency kit and some rudiments of training in back country first aid. Fortunately it wasn’t needed.
Climbing out of Shot Canyon
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Up to the top of Shot Canyon and then a relatively gentle climb to Chimney Rock. It was exciting to finally get to see that landmark I had seen so often in pictures. We were cooled by a brief drizzle and some overcast weather, and Nate got some beautiful cloud shots.
Approaching Chimney Rock from Shot Canyon
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We rested briefly at Chimney Rock and had some snacks. Only one car was there, a bright yellow SUV with Montana plates. We then started off along the Pete’s Mesa trail towards our entrance into the Maze. Easy walking with amazing 360o views of the Standing Rocks, the Chocolate Drops, Ekker Butte and Elaterite Butte and even the Island in the Sky in the distance.
Leaving Chimney Rock to Pete’s Mesa trail
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Resting along Pete’s Mesa trail with a view of the Chocolate Drops
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Along Pete’s Mesa trail
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Suddenly the trail turned hard left and we begin descending. There were one or two descents involving lining or sliding the packs down, but mostly just gently going down.
Down into the Maze
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Near the end in a narrow canyon is tree stump conveniently used a banister down some stone steps, and then we reached a very sandy bottom. We met two folks who owned the yellow Montana SUV, who were doing the Pictograph loop as a day hike. We walked down canyon, and things gradually widened, until finally we saw the large Nuts and Bolts formation in the distance and some lush grasses and cottonwoods and knew we were at the Pictograph Confluence. We poked around a bit until we found the spring, which was nothing more than a puddle surrounded by three or four flat rocks. Using an empty iced tea bottle we found en route (the only garbage we found along the entire trip), we bailed the puddle into Nate’s gravity filter and started purifying. This would be the last source of water for us for the rest of the trip.
The spring was amazing. Even though the puddle was no more than 6 inches deep, each time we drained it with the iced tea bottle, the puddle slowly filled up again from a very sluggish shallow stream seeping out of some low rocks about 10 ft away. Once our bottles were filled, I took the iced tea bottle, went around the bend and poured it over my head and on my feet. Ahhh! Felt good!
We found an astounding campsite about 200 yards into Pictograph Canyon right at the first bend, with a beautiful view of the Chocolate Drops. Set up camp and had a nice dinner. It was here that I realized I had lost my glasses and had to rely on my prescription sunglasses.
After dinner we strolled over to the Maze Overlook Trail. I was pretty tired and just went to the foot of the trail. It was getting dark and I didn’t want to do the hike up in sunglasses. Nate went up a bit and got some beautiful shots and I strolled back to the campsite. Even though the route was pretty straightforward, I could see how easy it is to get disoriented in the Maze and get totally lost, especially as daylight is waning. Fortunately, we both made it back safely to camp and had another early night.
Campsite in Pictograph Fork right below the Chocolate Drops
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A late night expedition for bladder emptying wearing my sunglasses was an adventure!
Day 4—Pictograph Fork to Chimney Rock and Back to the Doll House and Beehive Arch Trail: Another long and beautiful day. Started early and got our last supply of water from the spring at Picto Confluence. Then up Pictograph Canyon, slogging through sand as the sun rose higher and higher. Great stop at Harvest Scene. Kept on slogging, one detour down a side canyon and then back on track to exit up towards Chimney Rock. The last part of the climb out was pretty steep and we were getting pretty winded and stopped several times. No need to line the packs at all, and given all the other climbs in and out of canyons, this seemed to be the least challenging.
Nice gentle climb up to Chimney Rock and then time to relax for lunch. Met two guys who had been camping below Maze Overlook the night before (Nate saw their campsite) who were going down into Water Canyon. Nate then went off for a long photo shoot to the head of Jasper Canyon and I reorganized my pack and rested. Tried to email or call my wife back home to FedEx a spare pair of glasses to Tex’s for pickup, but alas, no signal.
We then walked down the jeep road back to the Doll House. The sun was high, it was hot, and we were kind of tired, so it was a challenge. We turned at the Beehive Arch trailhead and made our way down the trail into the permitted camping area and set up camp for our last night.
Met an interesting fellow ambling up the trail – Richie from NY and LA, who was car camping at the Doll House in an ’84 pickup truck and had dayhiked to the overlooks and then gone down to the Green River at One Mile Canyon, taken a dip, took a half gallon of river water and scrambled back up. We debated the merits of Canyonlands vs. Capitol Reef. Colorful character and a serious backcountry guy.
After dinner, we took a quick hike back to the Doll House and the long loop around to the Surprise Valley Overlook. Astounding views. Still want to camp up there beyond the Valley (where there’s no camping allowed) up on the mesa to the east abutting the river. Maybe next trip.
Back to camp and early to bed. Best sleep of the entire expedition.
Day 5: Down to Spanish Bottom and pick up: Up early, breaking camp and heading back to the Doll House and down to Spanish Bottom. Definitely easier going down than coming up, and for me, the sticks definitely helped the knees. Also, of course, the pack was a bit lighter without as much food and water- we were each down to less than a bottle since we knew Tex’s had cold water aboard.
We made it down to the landing and met a hardy hiker Johnnie, from Tag Along, who was spending a few days off at the far end of Spanish Bottom above the floodplain. Really knew his stuff about the river and backcountry. Good guy. I shared some of my wife Alisa’s banana-coconut-blueberry fruit leather.
I took a stroll down river to the first rapids, Brown Betty, dipped my hat in the rushing water and cooled off.
About a dozen rafters came down river and tied up at Spanish Bottom and were up for a quick jaunt to the Doll House. Pretty boisterous and exuberant. They said we could just climb over their rafts to get to Tex’s boat when they arrived.
Mike arrived to pick us up and several canoe parties along the way. Saw Lynda and Robert from the Virgin Islands again, and they had a great canoe trip down the Colorado, almost to the Confluence.
Linda, with Nate and Adam looking pretty tired, on the way back to Potash
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Back to Potash and the ride to Tex’s. Mike was an incredible river pilot and fount of knowledge of the area in general and the Maze in particular. We sorted out our gear, said goodbye to new friends, and I called Alisa in NYC to let her know I survived and was picked up by Phil, who had his own adventures in the Needles and the area.
Phil and I crashed on Saturday in a condo south of town near the golf course. Big ATV weekend, so the place was crowded. Interesting to see so many different outdoor sub –communities in Moab – rafters, canoers, dayhikers, backpackers, bikers, ATVers, SUVers – all loving this desert paradise.
On Sunday, we did Murphy Hogback. Great views of the Green and over to the Maze. I was warned that the climb back up was a slog, but without a backpack it was a piece of cake. I guess those few days in the backcountry really made a difference.
The Murphy Hogback trailhead shares a parking lot with the Murphy Point trailhead, which is a very gentle trail. Very interesting – when you meet hardcore hikers in the backcounty, they’re generally very friendly and share advice, tips, etc. But the folks at the parking lot were very reserved – sort of like the crowds you see at Old Faithful or Delicate Arch, everybody uptight and embarrassed. Sort of ashamed to be saying hello to anyone. I knew I was back in civilization.
After the hike, quick swing back into town to check at Tex’s to see if anyone turned up with my eyeglasses (alas, no) and to Lema’s Kokopelli for a pendant for Alisa to bring home (last year when I mentioned to them that I was returning from several days in the backcountry and needed a peace offering for my wife, the Lema’s folks said, yeah, we get a lot of that here…). They have beautiful things, and I chose well – the gift, and my safe return, was welcomed!
Then leaving Moab, a quick stop at the truck stop in Green River for a shower and up to SLC for the red-eye back to NYC.
Anyway, great trip. It required lots of logistical planning and training, and a leap of tremendous faith. When the slogging and climbing got hard and there were various aches and pains, I just kept telling myself that I’d trained months for this and could do it. And somehow I did. And now, as time passes, the trip seems easier and easier!
