Chain of Lakes - Yellowstone National Park - August 21, 2026

scatman

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When my son asked me to plan a backpacking trip for this summer that he and his girlfriend could go on, I had originally wanted to backpack into Shoshone Lake and visit the geyser basin, but the criteria that he gave me didn't work out for the dates that were available so I instead planned a five day trip along the Chain of Lakes on the Central Plateau in Yellowstone. The Chain of Lakes includes Ice, Wolf, Grebe and Cascade Lakes from west to east. This would be a shuttle trip with us leaving a vehicle at the Grebe Lake Trailhead and then hiking in at the Ice Lake Trailhead. The distances between the lakes were short, so we included some day hikes into the mix, one being to Little Gibbon Falls, another around Wolf Lake, and finally a day hike from Grebe Lake to the summit of Observation Peak.

From a waterfowl perspective, this was a wonderful trip. We saw three great blue herons, numerous osprey, two loons at each lake, various ducks, sandhill cranes, and the swans at Grebe put on a show for us while we were camping there.

I haven't backpacked with my son in eight years, so I was excited to spend some time with Hugh II in the backcountry again. This would also be my son's girlfriend's first backpacking trip and Hugh wanted to keep it to short days so that Grace would have an enjoyable time.

Of course, I'll be extending this report to getting up to Yellowstone and some time spent in Jackson after completing our time in the backcountry, so grab hold and put your seatbelts on.


Getting there:

It is tradition when driving up for backpacking trips in Yellowstone to fuel up with breakfast at Sill's in Layton, UT. While we were driving up from Salt Lake, Hugh and Grace would be driving in to meet us at Old Faithful from Portland, OR.

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Arriving at Sill's Cafe

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I opened the door and this is what I see. So let's see if we can do some epic shite. :)

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I had the ham and cheese omelet with hash browns and toast

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We hit the historic part of Idaho Falls as I searched for some beer from Bombastic Brewery.
I was unsuccessful in my beer search, but I like the name of this business.

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Dinner at Hank's in West Yellowstone

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Arriving at the Old Faithful Lodge, this raven greets the Scat family upon getting out of our car

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We stayed at the Lodge cabins the first night

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The three stooges at Old Faithful geyser

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Since I was hauling in a vintage external frame pack, I had to get this sticker at the
general store


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Had to hold my hand over the setting sun for this shot of Old Faithful erupting



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Trip overview map


Day 1 - Ice Lake Trailhead to Campsite 4D2

Very short first day as we would just follow the west and north shores of Ice Lake to campsite 4D2 on the east side of Ice. Before hitting the trailhead though, we enjoyed breakfast at the Old Faithful Inn.

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Day one overview map


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Heading to breakfast. Is this considered EPIC? Trying to do epic shite. :p Starting to get Hayden Valley vibes here. :mad:


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Canada geese at the Old Faithful Geyser

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Group shot at the Ice Lake Trailhead

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Overexposed, but you get the idea - this pack can haul some gear, heading towards the west side of Ice Lake

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Ice Lake

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Trail junction. Howard Eaton Rocks!

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On our way to 4D2

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Arriving at 4D2 still intact. :)

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Setting up our tent at 4D2

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Sleeps three comfortably

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The Scatman gold hammer! Yikes!

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Time for the day hike to Little Gibbon Falls. Crossing the Gibbon River at this point

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Trail junction sign

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Little Gibbon Falls

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Harebell and large mushroom at the falls

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Nice to see he has the Scatman smile down. :scatman:

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I crossed the river again to get above the falls and get this shot.

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The bear pole back at camp

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Dusk on Ice Lake.


Day 2 - Ice Lake to Wolf Lake

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Day 2 overview map


Another short day at almost three miles to campsite 4G7 on Wolf Lake. We took a short break on our way after crossing the Gibbon River for the second time.

While at Wolf Lake, it began to rain in the evening and rained continuously throughout the night.

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Hugh II, getting water from Ice Lake for morning breakfast

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Holy cow! This gold hammers has amazing similarities to Thor's hammer. :)

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On our way to Wolf Lake. New lodgepoles from 1988 on either side of the trail.

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Aster along the trail

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Crossing the Gibbon River for the second time

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Richard's geranium near our break spot

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Wolf Lake through the trees

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Outlet of Wolf Lake (Gibbon River)

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One of the streams that flows into Wolf Lake, seen on our hike around the lake

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Orange dragonfly on our way around the lake

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We checked out campsite 4G6 while circling the lake

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Fording the outlet to get back to camp

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Relaxing at the firepit


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Our tent at 4G7

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Sheila can't do the Scat scowl.

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The lone flower on the lily pads on Wolf Lake

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Rain delay at Wolf


Day 3 - Wolf Lake to Grebe Lake

Second shortest day of the trip heading over to Grebe and campsite 4G4 on the north side of Grebe.

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Day 3 overview map


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Vintage! The Park Service had replaced this wonderful wooden sign with a shorter metal one. :(



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Crossing the outlet again

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Crossing an inlet to Wolf

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One of many squirrels encountered on this trip

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Setting up camp at Grebe

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View from our tent to the lookout on Observation Peak

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Testing out a new pillow by Sea to Summit. Katie didn't like it after using it the night before.

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There were two swans and one cygnet on the lake while we were there.

After paddling around a small area to the northeast of us, they then came on shore near our eating area.

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The female kept showing me the bottom of her foot

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Pure vintage - sign and pack.

I then took a walk down the outlet of Grebe Lake

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Lily pad covered outlet to Grebe


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Shots along the outlet

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Western fringe gentian

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Swans back on the lake when I returned from the outlet

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Silhouettes of two squirrels quarreling with one another at camp


Day 4 - Day Hike from Grebe to the Summit of Observation Peak

All of us headed over to Cascade Lake, but only Hugh II and I summited Observation Peak

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Day 4 overview map


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This should get me to the top of Observation

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Leaving Grebe Lake

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Only a couple of miles to Cascade from the trail junction

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Pearly everlasting

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West shore of Cascade Lake ahead

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Cascade Lake and our trail

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Mileage sign for Observation Peak Trail

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Lupine along the trail

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Getting up above Cascade Lake with Hayden Valley off in the distance

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Grebe lake below

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View to the east from the trail towards Hedges Peak

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Big mushrooms on Observation Peak

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The firepit at campsite 4P1

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Benchmark on Observation Peak

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We made it.

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White Peaks, Mount Holmes and Dome Mountain to the west

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Electric Peak to the northwest

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@TractorDoc , I think I found the old Army Trail from Observation to Cook Peak and beyond. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

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Looking down on our tent at Grebe Lake

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Wolf Lake

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Ice Lake

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A hawk soars near eye level with Norris Geyser Basin in the distance

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Cook Peak to the north

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Hammer Time! Can't touch this. :rolleyes:

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On our way back down the mountain, looking over into the Tower Creek Drainage

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Dropping down to Cascade

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View from the trail between Cascade and Grebe Lakes

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I took this same picture back in 2019

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2019 shot

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Back at Grebe

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Two classics. :D

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At dinner time, the swans were back on land just to the south of the eating area.

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And then they came right into camp

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And spent some time just watching us eat.

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And then back to the lake. Truly amazing and worth the price of admission.

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A sandhill crane across the lake later in the evening


Day 5 - Grebe Lake to the Grebe Lake Trailhead


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Day 5 overview map


Longest day of the trip not counting Observation Peak. Pretty easy hike out to the car.


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Is that going to be enough calories? I liked these and will eat them again in the future.

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First one must find the trail. :)

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So long Grebe Lake

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The Big Cheese

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Passing through and open area on our way to the trailhead

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Map of area at the Grebe Lake Trailhead

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The Jansport D2 external frame pack made it.

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@Rockskipper , I'm pretty sure that's a mule on that can.

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We then drove south through Hayden Valley and along Yellowstone Lake and then on to Signal Mountain Lodge

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For The Signal Mountain of Nachos!

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Not just one order, but two!

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Not as nice as the Dusty Mule, but anytime you have a grizz calling out for beer then you know it's got to be okay.

After Signal Mountain, we drove to Jackson and checked into our motel for the night. The next day we shopped around Jackson.


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Breakfast at the Virginian

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A spinach, jalapeno and pepper jack omelet for starters. They used to serve this with sliced red potatoes, so this was a downgrade in
my view. :(

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Wall shot at the Virginian of the grizzlies feeding at the Canyon platform back in the day.


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Then on to Moos for a Oreo malt with dark malt. I was in heaven!

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And some Zonker Stout ice cream for dessert. :)

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Jackson Wildlife

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And on to the Cowboy Bar

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Then

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And now.

Keep rollin', rollin', rollin'
Though the streams are swollen
Keep them dogies rollin', rawhide
Through rain and wind and weather
Hell bent for leather
Wishin' my gal was by my side
All the things I'm missin'
Good vittles, love, and kissin'
Are waiting at the end of my ride

Move 'em out, head 'em up
Head 'em up, move 'em on
Move 'em out, head 'em up:
Rawhide
Cut 'em out, ride 'em in
Ride 'em in, cut 'em out
Cut 'em out, ride 'em in:
Rawhide!


And to finish our day, some dinner at the Merry Piglets


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The real bikini pose @Rockskipper. Nothing says bikini pose like merry pigs in bikinis.


And then on to Logan, UT


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If you see this truck, just follow it to the end of the rainbow. It leads to this . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


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Aggie Ice Cream and a Cookie Overload!

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Mount Logan and Logan Peak from Aggie Ice Cream

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More Vintage! The Utah Theatre on Center Street was there when I went to school in
Logan. And look at what's playing - Jaws! Vintage!

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And last but not least, we stopped in Willard at Grammy's for peaches, pears, squash and corn before completing our journey back
in Salt Lake,


The End.
 
Last edited:
Very nice. It looked so familiar. :-)

I saw no circus peanuts. ???

I did notice that the tent actually slept 4, as there was a doll or a teddy bear by a pillow. I hope that little one had a nice trip.

I hope the swans, in getting ever closer to people, remain safe. I know the adults are super strong, but moving in to watch you eat seems risky for wildlife. When Jim and I were there, in July, there were two cygnets. I felt honored that they came ashore and took a nap at the beach of our campsite, but wow, they came right up to your camp. I bet they were looking for the circus peanuts.

Thank you for the great pictures and trip report!
 
Those green chile cheddar grits are my go-to warm breakfast on cool mornings. Just enough to kick ya into gear without making it feel like you've got a tire belly for the first hour on the trail.

Great trip. I had my family with me for a car tour of Old Faithful and Grand Teton the first week of August and we chowed down at Signal Mountain as well. Best spot on that route and we caught a great sunset behind Mount Moran. It's got the best beer list north of Jackson!

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Sweet!

That looked like a great family trip. I sure hope Grace enjoyed herself and was not too intimidated by any Scatman behaviors. (It took me a year or two to determine what your version of normal is/was).

Hugh Jr. looks to have an impressive head of hair. I respect that. :thumbsup:

I'd give a shiny nickel to know what Shelia was thinking the moment the "Rain Delay at Wolf" picture was taken.

I'm with @Pringles in asking where the Circus Peanuts are. . . but perhaps it is best you did not have any as I'm sure those swans would have beaked holes thru your vintage pack to get to them.

The gold hammer must not have been too heavy if it found its way to the top of Observation Peak. I think you need to have Katie knit you a little holster for it so you have quick access in times of need. I bet it would be good for swooshing away mosquitoes.

Some Epic Shite indeed! Well done Scat Family. :)
 
Fantastic looking trip! And you hit all the requisite stops on both ends as well. I really enjoyed those shots of the swans.
 
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