5 Days in Glacier NP

[CCoC]

Hi there,

I'm new in the Forum, looking forward to our trip in Glacier NP from the 6th to the 11th September. I received already some good tip but as I am always eager of new inputs, here is my first post on BCP, I hope you guys don't get bored by its length!


First, I have some practical questions. Maybe they look silly but it's hard to get answers just googling:

- We have a minivan-rv (<20ft), can we only stay at one of the Xanterra campgrounds or are there others that work on a first come first served basis? In this latter case, are there real hopes to get a spot? How does it work exactly? Do I just drive and look for a car-accessible campground along the roads? Do I have to expect NOT to find any spot and being forced out of the Park if I do not book another Xanterra campground?

- When we'll go hiking, and hopefully camping in the backcountry, do I just park close to the trailhead and leave the car? Should I be concerned about belongings in the car?



The Hikes:

- Since our main aim is wildlife watching, after long reads, I have selected some areas/trails that look (according to the falcon guide) more interesting. In particular, grizzly and wolves would be one target (we'll have a spotting scope), lynx and cougar, wolverine one dream, otter, weasels and beavers a lovely sight!

- Reading around it seems to me that the area around Many Glacier could be promising for wildlife. What I thought so far was a hike to helen lake, the huckelberry mt. lookout (I'm a Peacock reader ) and the area around Polebridge. We would love to do 1 overnight, and a couple of dayhikes. Even a base camp (for 2 nights) would be great.

-I am reading the Falcon guide for Glacier an Waterton, but - in contrast to the Yellowstone one - it hardly mention wildlife-viewing hikes... So, any tip would be highly appreciated!

-It looks like it is not very easy to make loops within the park, its more like shuttle or out and back...am I correct?

Also I realize that most likely we will be able to do one overnight loop/shuttle only and we will do some day hike the rest of the days. Now, I'd like to choose the hike and book the CG from here, since there is this online booking system available. In case, I guess it's possible to change the plan there according to availability.



I see some chances for the overnight (but please, feel free to write down your suggestions):
--- Two Medicine==>StMary
1st day) 2Med-PitamakanPAss-GrizzlyMedLake-Atl Creek CG
2nd day) AtlCreek-TripleDivide-StMary

--- Around Many Glacier:
1st day) Many Glacier ==> Elizabeth (or Helen) Lake through Ptarmigan tunnel
2nd day) back to MG via Redgap Pass

I read that the free shuttle works until labor day. If this is really the case, is there a way to get from, say, Cut Bank ranger station or St Mary to Two Medicine (could be as well St Mary==>Many Glacier or Goat Haunt to MG)?


Regarding the day hikes:

We might be interested in the 2Med-Pitamakan-Dawson Loop. After watching some video, pictures and google earth as well, we are a bit concerned about the ridge/cliff between the two passes. It looks that there is a lot of exposure, is the trail in that area in the range of 1ft large or something around 5ft?

What about the Huckleberry lookout? Looks feasible even with a late start (let's say ==>going to the sun rd early in the morning and start the trail around 10am)





Thanks a lot,

Francesco

 

[chandlerwest]

I can't specifically answer a lot of your question but let me address what I know. Xanterra doesn't have the inside the park campgrounds. Those are all National Park Service. There is a KOA campsite outside of West Glacier but that is all I remember. (I don't camp.) If you are up for an 18 mile day I highly recommend Pitamakan-Dawson. The exposure is more in the 5 ft. range. if not more. My 15 year old is into dreaming about doing a lot of off trail stuff in Glacier and I tell him. "You won't fall off of a trail but there is no guarantee when you get off trail. You can make this day shorter if you take the Two Medicine boat ride, which runs thru Sept 11th. Saves 3 miles but I feel it adds a logistical issue. Your feet are always with you when you need them but the boat might not be. Another loop-ish trail is Siyeh Pass. Park your car at Siyeh Bend. Since you are arriving after the shuttle closure date you would need to walk the road back to you car. (Which is 5 miles...ugh...maybe not). Yes comfortable loops are hard to come by. Working in a backcountry night you can piece together loops like the Lake Elizabeth/Red Gap you mention. I have hiked 100's of miles there but most have been out and backs. Many Glacier is considered a prime wildlife spot. No guarantees. We have seen nothing one trip, to seeing herds another. All those animals you listed specifically?.......It is a crap shoot on seeing them. In 30 years going to Glacier we have seen a dozen Grizzly.....maybe. Hiking the trail up to Hidden Lake at Logan Pass is pretty much guaranteed to see Mountain Goats. I have yet to do the Huckleberry Lookout. I think I am saving it for when my son is out of the planning. Apgar Lookout which is on the southern end of the same ridge is very sweet!

 

[CCoC]

@chandlerwest, I wrapped up a lot of questions I know

Thanks for the info, I start looking into Siyeh Pass loop

 

[isleroyaleguy]

Many Glacier is a great spot for wildlife viewing. There are a lot of options for day hiking or for an extended trip.
Dawson/ Pitamakan is a beautiful hike.
The exposure is not bad. Tough climb and then rapid decent, but in between is a walk in the park.
Your itinerary looks great, if you can squeeze it all in.
Cheers
IRG

 

[chandlerwest]

@chandlerwest, I wrapped up a lot of questions I know

Thanks for the info, I start looking into Siyeh Pass loop

I had a V-8 moment this morning. A Siyeh Pass loop could be cleaned up a bit by parking at Sunrift Gorge then only walking 2.8 miles up the road to the Jackson Glacier Overlook where the Piegan Pass Trail goes up into the forest on the right.

 

[CCoC]

I had a V-8 moment this morning. A Siyeh Pass loop could be cleaned up a bit by parking at Sunrift Gorge then only walking 2.8 miles up the road to the Jackson Glacier Overlook where the Piegan Pass Trail goes up into the forest on the right.

Sounds great!

 

[Joey]

Wildlife can be very hit and miss. Vegetation is thick at lower elevations, especially west of the continental divide. You want areas that offer open alpine views. Many Glacier is one of the best places for wildlife. If you have a scope, you can sit in the Swiftcurrent parking lot and scan the mountains behind it.


I've only seen wolves 3 times in Glacier. They are very hard to see there, and I feel lucky I've had that many sightings. I've seen a large black one on Flattop Mountain, I've seen one near Morning Star Lake, and also one near Bowman Lake. They use to have a den out near there. Yellowstone is a much better choice for seeing wolves, or Canada and Alaska in my opinion.


All of those trails out of Many Glacier offer a chance to see grizzly bears. They are everywhere there, and its just dumb luck whether you're going to see them or not. One time I saw 8 different grizzly bears at the same moment from the Iceberg Lake trail. But, the last 3 times I've hiked it I haven't seen one. Cracker Lake, the Grinnel Glacier trail, the Poia Lake trail, Swiftcurrent Pass trail, and even the Apikuni Falls trail all commonly have grizzly bears near there.

As far as the backcountry, I've seen more grizzlies around Fifty Mountain than anywhere else in the park. Last year I saw grizzlies both times I camped there. Just keep in mind that they are everywhere in the park. It's just not always easy to see them. Hiking earlier in the day or late in the evening is definitely better. The entire Highline trail in general is a great place to see grizzlies, along with every other high mountain pass.

Mountain Lions are pretty common in the Avalanche Lake, Trail of the Cedars area . Kind of that whole Lake McDonald area. I've heard them scream while climbing above Lake McDonald to go towards Trout and Arrow Lake. I've seen one in my camp at Reynold's Creek, which has since burned.

Also, that Trout Lake, Arrow Lake, Camas Lake drainage has the highest concentration of grizzly bears in the park. But its hard to see them there, because the vegetation is so thick.


I can 100% guarantee that you will see mountain goats at Lake Ellen Wilson, and along the Gunsight Pass trail down to Sperry. You can also see them along the highline trail, and in the Many Glacier area pretty commonly. They are usually along the edge of the road at Logan Pass.

Moose are everywhere. Fishercap lake, just a 1/4 mile from Swiftcurrent is possibly the one of the more common places to see them. Really that whole Many Glacier area, but primarily the Swiftcurrent pass trail. There are several lakes before you reach the pass, and I almost always see one there.

If you see a wolverine, you will be super lucky. I think I've seen one near triple divide, but I can't say for sure. They are there in the park. I know they have been seen at Iceberg lake.


If you are backpacking, then you will have to get a permit. The backcountry office will go over with you where to park your car. I've never had a problem with people breaking into my car while I was out hiking, but it does happen. Don't leave valuables out in the open where people can see them. Inside the park does get patrolled during the night. Ranger Cathy has been on a power trip on the west side the last few years. But that is good if you want to leave your car overnight un attended.

Like the others said, the exposure along Dawson and Pitamakin isn't bad. You'll be fine. And I agree with everything the others said as well. Both of those guys know Glacier pretty well. Siyeh Pass is a great hike. I would also highly recommend taking a side trip up to Piegan Pass, and looking down the other side. It's well worth it if you have the time.

The crowds start thinning out in September. You should be able to find car campsites. Its also much easier to get backcountry campsites.

Elizabeth Lake is the most popular lake in the backcountry, and its beautiful. But there is something special about Helen Lake. Both are awesome. If you camp at Elizabeth, try for the foot of the lake. The views are better, and you're right on the lake.

Hope that helps. Others can chime in more, but thats what comes to mind off the top of my head. You really can't go wrong on your trip.